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I 


PERFUMES 

AND THEIR PREPARATION. f sr 


CONTAINING 


COMPLETE DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING HANDKERCHIEF PERFUMES, 
SMELLING-SALTS, SACHETS, FUMIGATING PASTILS; PREPARA¬ 
TIONS FOR THE CARE OF THE SKIN, THE MOUTH, 

THE PIAIR ; COSMETICS, PIAIR DYES, AND 
OTHER TOILET ARTICLES. 


WITH A 


DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF AROMATIC SUBSTANCES; THEIR 
NATURE, TESTS OF PURITY, AND WHOLE¬ 
SALE MANUFACTURE. 


GEORGE WILLIAM ASKINSON, Dr. Chem., 

\ * 



MANUFACTURER OF PERFUMERY. 


Translated from the Third German Edition by 


ISIDOR FURST. 

» 

(with corrections and additions by several experts.) 


WlustrateD vvitb 32 ^Engravings 



NEW YORK: 

N. W. HENLEY & CO., 
150 Nassau St. 


LONDON: 

E. & F. N. SPON, 
125, Strand. 


1892. 


) 



Copyrighted, 1892, 

BY 


NORMAN W. HENLEY & CO. 



PREFACE. 


The great progress which the art of perfumery has made 
during recent times is due to several causes, the chief one of 
which is fully realized only by the manufacturer on a large 
scale, who stands, as it were, behind the scenes and has access 

to facts and information concerning the materials he uses, 

• 

which are not so easily accessible to the dilettante in per¬ 
fumery, or remain altogether unknown to the latter. This 
important factor is the advance in our knowledge of the phys¬ 
ical and chemical properties of the several substances used in 
perfumery, whereby we can better discriminate between the 
genuine and the spurious, the choicest and the inferior, thus 
insuring, at the very start, a satisfactory result, instead of 
being compelled to resort to wasteful experimentation and 
empiricism. A better knowledge has also been gained of the 
sources of the commercial varieties of many of the crude pro¬ 
ducts, and a better insight into the conditions affecting their 
qualities or properties. A more exhaustive study of the prox¬ 
imate principles of many of the essential oils has thrown an 
entirely new light upon this heretofore obscure class of bodies, 
placing into our hands new products of definite chemical com¬ 
position, unvarying in physical properties, and many of them 
valuable additions to the perfumer’s stock of ingredients. 
Synthetic chemistry has also added to the list of materials 
required by the perfumer, and is surely going to add many 
more to it hereafter. Though some of these, like the new 
artificial musk, are not yet in a condition to enter into serious 



IV 


PREFACE. 


competition with the natural products, yet it is merely a ques¬ 
tion of time when the latter need no longer be depended 
upon. The increasing demands for the staple articles used 
by the perfumer have also caused a large increase in the cul¬ 
tivation of many important plants in various parts of the 
world, and have led to the establishment of new plantations, 
in some cases to such an extent that the commercial relations 
have been entirely revolutionized, new territories producing 
larger crops and a finer product than the old home of the 
plant. The exploration of hitherto unknown or imperfectly 
known countries has also largely added to the perfumer’s 
art, and is likely to continue to do this for a long time to 
come, since it is now well known that vast districts, more par¬ 
ticularly in tropical Africa, are inhabited by a flora abounding 
in new odoriferous plants. 

* 

In spite of all this expansion of the perfumer’s stock of 
trade, however, which results in the periodical introduction 
of new compounds, there is a very large number of popular 
odorous mixtures which remain in steady demand, having 
taken such firm root among civilized nations that they are 
not likely to be displaced. It is more particularly with a view 
to afford information regarding these latter that a work like 
the present is desirable and necessary. A treatise on per¬ 
fumery is expected to place into the hands of the purchaser 
reasonably reliable processes for preparing the most generally 
approved simple or compound perfumes, as well as accurate 
information concerning the origin and properties of the vari¬ 
ous ingredients, together with practical hints regarding the 
determination of their genuineness and purity. 

It is a frequent complaint of those who make prepara¬ 
tions after formulas published in works like the present, that 
they do not succeed in obtaining fully satisfactory products. 
Another complaint of purchasers of such works is this: that 
they fail to find formulas yielding preparations identical in 


PREFACE. 


V 


every respect with certain celebrated perfumes which have 
made the reputation and fortune of certain firms. Regarding 
the first complaint, we would say that the failure lies gener¬ 
ally with the complainant himself, through carelessness in 
the selection of the materials or disregard of the given direc¬ 
tions. Concerning the second complaint, a moment’s reflection 
must convince any one that formulas which are the result of 
the study and experimentation of years, and the products of 
which are the main stock of trade of certain firms, are care¬ 
fully guarded, and not likely to be communicated to others. 
Moreover, in many cases even a publication of the component 
parts would not be of much avail, for the manufacturer on 
the large scale has facilities for blending and seasoning his 
products which the maker on a small scale does not possess, 
and it is this part of the art particularly upon which the qual¬ 
ity of the products depends. 

In preparing the present treatise for the American public 
many changes were found necessary in the original text, in 
order to make the information given more correct or definite, 
and so bring the work more abreast of the present time. In 
addition to various improvements and additions made in 
the working formulas comprising the second portion of the 
work, the description of the natural products used as in¬ 
gredients, upon the quality and selection of which the suc¬ 
cess of the perfumer mostly depends, has been carefully 
revised, and so far as the objects of this work * required, 
completed by Dr. Charles Rice, Associate Editor of 
American Druggist , etc., in consultation with several experts 
in the art of perfumery. 



CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER I. PAG e 

The History of Perfumery. i 

CHAPTER II. 

About Aromatic Substances in General. 6 

CHAPTER III. 

Odors from the Vegetable Kingdom. 13 

CHAPTER IV. 

The Aromatic Vegetable Substances Employed in Perfumery. 20 

CHAPTER V. 

The Animal Substances Used in Perfumery. 57 

CHAPTER VI. 

The Chemical Products Used in Perfumery. 63 

A. Chemicals Used for the Extraction of Aromatic Substances. 64 

B. Chemical Products Used for the Preparation of Perfumes. 68 

C. The Colors Used in Perfumery. 87 

CHAPTER VII. 

The Extraction of Odors.'. 87 

CHAPTER VIII. 

The Special Characteristics of Aromatic Substances. 118 

CHAPTER IX. 

The Adulteration of Essential Oils and their Recognition... 139 

CHAPTER X. 

The Essences or Extracts Employed in Perfumery. 146 

CHAPTER XI. 

Directions for Making the Most Important Essences and Extracts. 150 

CHAPTER XII. 

The Division of Perfumery. 166 

CHAPTER XIII. 


The Manufacture of Handkerchief Perfumes, Bouquets, or Aromatic Waters. 167 


















Vlll 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER XIV. p AG k 

Formulas for Handkerchief Perfumes. 169 

CHAPTER XV. 

Ammoniacal and Acid Perfumes. 199 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Dry Perfumes. 207 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Formulas for Dry Perfumes (Sachets). 209 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

The Perfumes Used for Fumigation. 214 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Hygienic and Cosmetic Perfumery. 225 

CHAPTER XX. 

Preparations for the Care of the Skin. 227 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Formulas for the Preparation of Emulsions, Meals, Pastes, Vegetable Milk, 

and Cold-Creams. 230 

CHAPTER XXII. 

The Preparations Used for the Care of the Hair (Pomades and Hair Oils)... 245 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

Formulas for the Manufacture of Pomades and Hair Oils. 247 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

Preparations for the Care of the Mouth. 257 

CHAPTER XXV. 

Cosmetic Perfumery. 269 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

Skin Cosmetics and Face Lotions. 270 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

Hair Cosmetics.i. 280 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

Hair Dyes and Depilatories. 285 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

Wax Pomades, Bandolines, and Brillantines. 294 

CHAPTER XXX. 

The Colors Used in Perfumery. 297 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

The Utensils Used in the Toilet. 301 



















Perfumes and their Preparation. 


CHAPTER I. 

THE HISTORY OF PERFUMERY. 

The gratification of his senses is peculiar to man, and it 
is to this trait that we are indebted for all the arts. The ac 
tivities which aimed at the gratification of the eye and ear 
developed into the creative arts and music, and in like man¬ 
ner human endeavor directed toward the stimulation of the 
sense of smell has in our time assumed the proportions both 
of an art and a science; for it was nothing but the advance¬ 
ment of chemistry that made it possible to fix all the pleasant 
odors offered by nature and to create new perfumes by the 
artistic combination of these scents. The preparation of per¬ 
fumes is a very ancient art that is met with among all peoples 
possessed of any degree of civilization. It is particularly the 
ancient nations of the Orient which had in truth become 
masters in the manufacture of numerous perfumes. 

The first perfume was the fragrant flower; it has continued 
to be so to the present day: the sprig of dried lavender 
flowers which we lay in the clothes-press was probably used 
for the same purpose by the contemporaries of Aristotle. In 
the Orient, which we may look upon as the cradle of the art 
of perfumery, the idea suggested itself early to substitute for 
the delicious fragrance of the flowers some substances of 
lasting odor; various sweet-scented resins supplied the ma- 

i 



2 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


terial for this purpose. The use of these aromatic resins 
must have been very extensive: the ancient Egyptians alone 
consumed extraordinary quantities for embalming their dead. 
How highly the Oriental peoples in general prized perfumes 
can be learned from the Bible: the Jews (like the Catholics 
to the present day) employed an aromatic gum-resin (oliba- 
num, frankincense) in their religious ceremonies; in the Song 
of Solomon mention is made of Indian perfumes, for instance, 
cinnamon, spikenard, myrrh, and aloes. 

Altogether, incense played a prominent part in the reli¬ 
gious ceremonies of the ancient Western Asiatic nations— 
among many peoples under a theocratic government it was 
even believed to be sinful to use incense for other than reli¬ 
gious purposes. The Bible teaches us that Ezekiel and Isaiah 
protested against it, and that Moses even prescribed the 
preparation of certain kinds of incense for use in the taber¬ 
nacle. 

Among the most highly civilized people of antiquity, the 
Greeks, a large number of fragrant substances, as well as oils per¬ 
fumed with them—that is to say, perfumes in the same sense as 
we still understand the term—was known; this will be no sur¬ 
prise to those familiar with the culture of this remarkable people. 
The odor of violets was the favorite among the Greeks; be¬ 
sides this they used the scent of the different mints, thyme, 
marjoram, and other aromatic plants. This was carried so 
far as to become a matter of fashion for the Greek fop to use 
only certain odors in the form of ointments for the hair, others 
for the neck, etc. In order to prevent this luxury which was 
carried to such an excess, Solon even promulgated a law that 
interdicted the sale of fragrant oils to Athenian men (the law 
did not apply to the women). 

The Romans, who were the pupils of the Greeks in all the 
arts, carried the luxury with perfumes perhaps even farther. 
In ancient Rome there was a very numerous guild of per- 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 3 

fumers called unguentarii; they are said to have had a street 
to themselves in Capua. A Patrician Roman anointed him¬ 
self three times daily with precious, sweet-scented oils which 
he personally took along into his bath in golden vessels of 
exquisite workmanship, so-called nartheciae. At the funeral 
of his wife Poppaea, Nero is said to have used as incense more 
odorous substances than could be produced in one year in 
Arabia, at that time the only reputed source of perfumes. 
This luxury went so far that during the games in the open 
amphitheatres the whole air was filled with sweet odors as¬ 
cending from numerous censers arranged in a circle. The 
apartments of well-to-do Romans always contained large and 
very valuable urns filled with dried blossoms, to keep the air 
permanently perfumed. 

Roman extravagance with perfumes was carried to such 
an excess that under the consulate of Licinius Crassus a law 
was passed which restricted the use of perfumery, there being 
good reason to fear that there would not be enough for the 
ceremonies in the temples. 

With the migration of the almost savage Huns and Goths, 
the refinement of morals ceased, 1 progress in civilization was 
retarded for centuries, and at the same time the use of per¬ 
fumes disappeared entirely in Europe; but it was otherwise 
in the Orient. As an instance we may mention the prophecy 
of Mohammed, who promised in the Koran to the faithful in 
paradise the possession of black-eyed houries whos’e bodies 
were composed of the purest musk. 

The Arabs, the ancient masters of chemistry, were also the 
first founders of the art of perfumery. Thus the Arabian 
physician Avicenna, in the tenth century, taught the art of 
preparing fragrant waters from leaves, and Sultan Saladin, in 
1157, on his triumphal entry, had the walls of the mosque of 
Omar washed with rose water. 

It was the intercourse with the Orient brought about by 


4 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


the Crusades that made Europeans again more familiar with 
the art of perfumery, and a number of new odors rapidly be¬ 
came known. Italy and France, in those times the represen¬ 
tatives of culture, were the countries in which the preparation 
of perfumes was carried on on a large scale. Thus, for instance, 
we find the name of a Roman family preserved to the present 

* 

day because one of its members had combined a sweet-scented 
powder, called Frangipanni after its inventor, which is still 
in favor, and because his grandson Mauritius Frangipanni had 
made the important discovery that by treating this powder 
with spirit of wine the fragrant substance could be obtained 
in a fluid form. 

The fact has been frequently related and repeated, that 
Catherine de Medici, the wife of Henry II., had made use of 
the fashion of perfuming the body for the purpose of ridding 
herself of objectionable persons, by giving them scented gloves 
prepared and at the same time poisoned by a Florentine 
named Rene (Renato ?). We think this tale to be simply a 
hair-raising fable—modern chemistry knows no substance the 
mere touch of which could produce the effect of a fatal 
poison; and it is scarcely credible that such a material had 
been known at that time and lost sight of since. 

In the sixteenth century, especially at the court of Queen 
Elizabeth, perfumes were used with great extravagance; in 
fact, were looked upon as one of the necessaries of life. This 
luxury was carried still farther at the courts of the sumptuous 
kings of France; Louis XV. went so far as to demand every 
day a different odor for his apartments. A lady’s lover always 
used the same kind of perfume she did. 

It is well known that among the Oriental nations perfumes 
are used so largely that even food is flavored with rose water, 
musk, etc.; and Indian and Chinese goods always possess a 
peculiar aroma which is so characteristic for certain products 
that it was considered to be a sign of genuineness; this was 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 5 

the case, for instance, with the patchouly odor which always 
adheres to Indian shawls. 

A shawl-maker of Lyons, who had succeeded in perfectly 
imitating Indian shawls with reference to design and colors, 
spent a fabulous sum to obtain possession of the plant used 
by the Indian weavers for perfuming their wares. Despite 
the great outlay caused by the search for this plant, the man¬ 
ufacturer is said to have done a flourishing business with his 
“genuine” Indian shawls. 

In more recent times the great extension of trade to the 
farthest countries of the globe, and still more the progress of 
chemistry, have made us familiar with a number of new per¬ 
fumes. More than two hundred different aromatic substances 
are now known, and still they are far from being exhausted; 
every year new odoriferous plants become known, from which 
the chemist extracts perfumes. By this means, as well as by 
the enormous employment of perfumes in all grades of society, 
the art of their preparation has risen to a higher plane; out 

of empiricism, which alone prevailed a few decades ago, into 

\ 

the domain of the chemical sciences. 

Since the appearance of the last edition of this book, the 
art of perfumery has made noteworthy progress both with 
reference to the knowledge of new aromatic substances and 
to improvement in the methods of their preparation ; by the 
introduction of glycerin, solid and liquid vaselin, and salicylic 
acid into perfumery, one of its branches—hygienic cosmetics 
—has made an important advance. 

At present it is particularly France and England whose 
perfumery industry is most extensive and which to some ex¬ 
tent rule the markets of the world; southern France and Al¬ 
giers especially furnish the best raw materials, the finest essen¬ 
tial oils for the manufacture of perfumes at the chief centres, 
Paris and London. 


6 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


CHAPTER II. 

a 

ABOUT AROMATIC SUBSTANCES IN GENERAL. 

We apply the term perfume—which 'really means a fumi¬ 
gating material—to those substances which make an agreea¬ 
ble impression upon our sense of smell; the French call them 
briefly odejirs, i.e ., odors. The high degree of development 
at present attained by this industry in France and England is 
the cause of the fact that all perfumes are generally sold under 
French or English names, which must be borne in mind by 
manufacturers in this country. 

Perfumes or scents, however, exert not only an agreeable 
impression on the olfactory organ, but their effect extends to 
the entire nervous system, which they stimulate; when used 
in excess, they are apt to cause headache in sensitive persons; 
the laborers in the chemical factories where these substances 
are produced on a large scale, occasionally even suffer by 
reason of their stimulating action on the nerves. For this 
reason perfumes should never be employed otherwise than in 
a very dilute condition; this necessity arises from a peculiar¬ 
ity of the odorous substances which when concentrated and 
pure have by no means 9. pleasant smell and become fragrant 
only when highly diluted. Oil of roses, of orange flowers, or 
of jasmine, in fact nearly all aromatic substances, have an 
almost disagreeable odor when concentrated ; only in an ex¬ 
tremely dilute state they yield those delightful scents which we 
admire so much in the blossoms from which they are derived. 

It will be easier to understand the almost incredible pro¬ 
ductiveness of perfumes if we cite as an instance that a few 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


7 


centigrams of musk placed on a sensitive scale can for years 
fill a large hall with their characteristic odor without showing 
an appreciable loss of weight, and still particles must separate 
from the musk and become evenly diffused through the air of 
the hall because the odor is perceptible throughout every 
part of it. 

It would be an error, however, were we to assume that all 
aromatic substances possess the same degree of productive¬ 
ness; some of them, as for instance the odorous principle of 
orris root, have a comparatively faint smell—a fact which 
must be borne in mind in the combination of perfumes. Even 
odors having a very similar effect on the olfactory nerves 
differ widely in their intensity; for instance, true oil (attar) of 
roses possesses an intensity more than twice as great as that 
of the rose geranium; many authorities agree in giving the 
proportion as three to eight, the first figure being that of rose 
oil, the second that of oil of rose geranium. Therefore, in 
order to produce perfumes of equal intensity (having the same 

effect on the olfactory nerves), we must dissolve in an equal 

/ 

quantity of the menstruum either three parts by weight of 
the attar of roses or eight parts of the oil of rose geranium. 

In the prescriptions for the preparation of perfumes given 
in this book, these proportions have been carefully weighed; 
but it will be the office of the trained olfactory sense of the 
manufacturer to modify them for the various kinds of per¬ 
fumery in such a way as to produce a truly harmonious pleas¬ 
ant odor. 

Although we know many aromatic substances, we are still 
in ignorance as to the preparation of certain decidedly agree¬ 
able odors. Thus no one at present is able to produce the re¬ 
freshing odor of the sea borne along on the wind, any more 
than we are able to reproduce the scent exhaled by the forest, 
especially after a warm rain; chemistry, though it has done 
much in the domain of perfumery, has thus far thrown no light 


8 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


upon it. Even certain vegetable odors—for instance, the 
delightful perfume exhaled by some Aroideae and Primulaceae 
—we cannot as yet preserve unchanged in perfumery. This 
opens an illimitable field for future activity to the progressive 
manufacturer. 

In a book devoted to the production of perfumes it would 
certainly be in place to say something about the physiological 
relations of the olfactory sensations; but unfortunately this 
interesting part of physiology is still enveloped in great ob¬ 
scurity. All we know positively on this subject is that many 
particles of the odorous bodies evaporate and must come in 
contact with the olfactory nerves in order to produce the 
sensation of odor. There is no lack of experiments seeking 
to draw a parallel between sensations of smell and those of 
hearing, and, as is well known, we speak of a harmony and 
dissonance of odors as we do of tones. Piesse, the renowned 
perfumer, has even made an attempt to arrange the different 
odors in a “ harmonic scale ” having the compass of the piano, 
and to deduce therefrom a law for the mixture of the several 
aromatic substances. This attempt, although very ingenious, 
still lacks a scientific foundation. Piesse endeavors to com¬ 
bine the several scents like tones to produce chords in differ¬ 
ent scales; the chords of odors are to agree with those of 
tones. Thus far, however, no proof has been furnished that 
the olfactory nerve and the acoustic nerve have the same 
organization, and under this supposition alone could Piesse’s 
system be accepted as correct. 

The Division of Aromatic Substances According to 

their Origin. 

The majority of the substances used in perfumery are de¬ 
rived from the vegetable kingdom, but some come from the 
animal kingdom, and for others which do not occur com¬ 
plete in nature we are indebted to chemistry. As is well 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


9 


known, most blossoms possess a decided odor, which is ex¬ 
tremely fragrant in some; yet it is not the blossoms alone, 
but in different genera various parts are distinguished by 
agreeable odors. In some plants the fragrant substances are 
contained in every part, as in different pines and the mints; 
in others, only in the fruits (nutmeg, vanilla), while the other 
parts are odorless; in certain plants only the rinds of the 
fruits contain an aromatic substance (oranges, lemons). In 
the Florentine Iris the entire plant is odorless—only its root 
stock possesses an agreeable, violet-like scent; while, for in- 
stance, in the camphor-tree an aromatic substance exists in 
the wood, in the cinnamon laurel in the bark, in the clove- 
tree mainly in the closed buds. 

But taking the aromatic plants all together, we find that it 
is particularly their flowers which contain the finest odors, 
and that the majority of perfumes are prepared from their 
blossoms. 

From the animal kingdom we take for the purposes of per¬ 
fumery only a very small number of substances, among which, 
moreover, some peculiar relation exists; while, for instance, 
all men would call the odor of violets, roses, vanilla, etc., 
agreeable, the odor of some animal substances is decidedly 
obnoxious to many persons, though others like it—an obser¬ 
vation which can be verified often with reference to musk. 

With the advancement of science, chemical products find 
application in ever increasing numbers; among them are sub¬ 
stances which owe their origin directly to the vegetable king¬ 
dom, while others, such as nitrobenzol and pine-apple ether, 
are only indirectly derived from it. 

From what has been stated, we learn that our attention 
must be directed particularly to those scents which are de¬ 
rived from the vegetable kingdom. To the manufacturer of 
perfumery, however, it is a matter of importance whence the 
plants are obtained which he uses for the preparation of the 


IO 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


odors; a very slight change in the soil often makes a great 
difference in the quality of one and the same species; we see 
this quite clearly in our ordinary strawberry. While the wild 
fruit is but small in size it has a delightful aromatic flavor, 
and the same species transplanted into gardens attains much 
greater size but possesses only a faint aroma not to be com¬ 
pared with that of the wild variety. The Lombardian violet 
is large and beautiful, but the German has a much more pleas¬ 
ant odor. On the other hand, the blossoms of the orange-tree 
obtained from the plants cultivated in pots cannot be com¬ 
pared with reference to their odor with these growing in the 
Riviera, the strip of coast land of the Mediterranean from 
Marseilles to Genoa. Altogether the last-named region and 
the south of France may be called the true garden of the 
perfumer; in the neighborhood of Grasse, Cannes, Nice, Mo¬ 
naco, and some other towns, extensive plots of ground are set 
with aromatic plants such as orange-trees, Acacia farnesiana, 
jasmine, violets, etc., whose products are elaborated in large, 
well-appointed chemical factories solely devoted to the ex¬ 
traction of their odors. The proximity of the sea-coast, with 
its favorable climate almost free from frost, permits the cul¬ 
tivation of southern plants, while in the more elevated parts 
of the country the adjoining Maritime Alps cause a more 
changeable climate which adapts them to certain other sweet- 
scented plants. 

The great value of the annual production of the French 
flower farms at Cannes, Grasse, and Nice will be evident from 
the following figures. The harvesting and elaboration of the 
flowers at the points named give employment to fifteen thou¬ 
sand persons, and the average annual production is: 


Orange flowers, 
Roses, 

Jasmine, . 
Violets, 


2,000,000 kgm., valued at 2,000,000 francs. 


500,000 

80,000 

80,000 


500,000 

200,000 

400,000 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. II 

Acacia flowers,. 40,000 kgm., valued at 160,000 francs. 

Tuberoses, . 20,000 “ “ 80,000 “ 

2,720,000 kgm., valued at 3,340,000 francs. 

From these flowers were manufactured: 500,000 kgm. of 
pomades and essences, 1,000,000 litres of orange-flower water, ^ 
too, 000 litres of rose water, and 1,200 kgm. of oil of roses. 

Besides, in more northern countries we find here and there 
quite an extensive cultivation of aromatic plants; this is the 
case, for instance, in England, where lavender, crisp mint, 
and peppermint are planted on a large scale solely for their 
perfume. In northern Germany, too, we sometimes find 
caraway and sweet flag cultivated, for their peculiar odors 
only, in special fields. 

As stated above, the place of growth of a plant exerts a 
powerful influence on the quality of the odors developed in it; 
this circumstance may be the reason why certain scents are 
prized most highly when they are derived from some definite 
regions, because the buyer is sure that the product from such 
places is of superior excellence. 

Thus we find that English oils of lavender and peppermint 
are valued more highly and bring better prices than those 
from other points of production; some places even have, as 
it were, acquired a monopoly of certain odors. While the 
factories at Cannes produce the most perfect odors of roses, 
orange flowers, jasmine, and cassie, those at Nice are famous 
for the finest odors of violet, reseda (mignonette), and tube¬ 
rose, and those of Italy for the odors of bergamot and orris 
root. 

Unfortunately there are in the United States no extensive 
places of cultivation for odoriferous plants, although certain 
localities are very well adapted to the growth of violets, mig¬ 
nonette, roses, syringa, lavender, etc. Peppermint, however, 
is grown on a large scale in some parts of New York State 




12 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


and in Michigan. Of course such an enterprise, in order to 
be profitable, requires the intelligent co-operation of planters 
and duly qualified chemists, besides well-furnished laboratories 
and a considerable amount of capital; but under these con¬ 
ditions the prospects of gain are good. 

At present the manufacturers of perfumery are almost en¬ 
tirely dependent upon English and French factories for their 
supply of odors. Owing to the absence of competition, the 
prices for the products, excellent though they are, are high, 
and become still more so when the crops are short. These 
conditions would be materially altered under active competi¬ 
tion. 

As indicated above, the odors used in perfumery may be 
divided into three distinct groups according to their origin. 
These groups are: 

1. Odors of vegetable origin. 

2. Odors of animal origin. 

3. Odors of artificial origin—chemical products. 

Before describing the preparation of true perfumes, it is 
necessary to become acquainted with the several raw mate¬ 
rials required in their manufacture; that is to say, the simple 
odorous substances, their origin, their preparation, and their 
peculiar qualities. Besides these odorous raw materials, the 
art of perfumery makes use of a number of chemical and min¬ 
eral products, whose quality largely influences that of the 
perfume to be made. These, therefore, likewise call for an 
appropriate description. Among these auxiliary substances 
are alcohol, glycerin, fixed oils, and solid fats, which play an 
important part not only in the preparation of the perfumes, 
but also enter into the composition of many. The liquid 
handkerchief perfumes always contain a large quantity of 
alcohol, the scented hair oils consist largely of fixed oils, 
while solid fats of animal or vegetable origin occur in the 
so-called pomades. As we shall see, the actual odors, owing 


PERFUMES AND TIIEIR PREPARATION. 


*3 


to their extraordinary productiveness, constitute generally 
only a small percentage of the perfumes ; the greatest bulk is 
usually either alcohol, fixed oil, or solid fat. 

Hence, as the last-named substances, aside from the odor¬ 
iferous materials, form the foundation of all articles of per¬ 
fumery, the manufacturer must devote particular attention 
to their purity, and their qualities must be discussed in detail,. 


CHAPTER III. 

ODORS FROM THE VEGETABLE KINGDOM. 

The odors occurring in plants have their seat mostly in 
peculiar receptacles called oil glands in which the aromatic 
substances are stored and seem to take no further part in the 
vital processes of the plant. As has been intimated, the parts 
of the plant in which the aromatic substances are stored differ 
.greatly; but in general it may be said that in most cases the 
flowers and fruits contain the odors; more rarely they may 
be found in the roots, in the bark, or in the wood, and in very 
few instances equally distributed throughout the whole plant. 
In some cases, however, we can obtain totally different odors 
from various parts of the same plant; this applies, for in¬ 
stance, to the orange-tree, whose blossoms furnish a different 
odor from the ripe fruits, and the latter must be distinguished 
from that obtainable from the leaves. The odorous substances 
occurring in the vegetable kingdom are either mobile liquids 
(essential oils), or they have a thicker consistence ranging 
from that of cream to that of soft cheese (balsams or gum- 
resins), or they are solid (resins). Aside from the fact that 
the term “ essential oils” is quite incorrect, since the substan¬ 
ces called by that name have nothing in common with oils 
except perhaps the liquid state, we are forced from a chemi- 



14 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


cal standpoint to include among them even solid substances ; 
the well-known camphor, a firm and waxy-looking body, be¬ 
longs according to all its chemical properties into the same 
group as the so-called essential oils. The name “ essential (or 
volatile) oils ” is due to the fact that the volatile vegetable 
aromatic substances cause a stain on paper similar to that 
produced by oils and fats ; but the stain made by the former 
disappears spontaneously after some time, while that due to 
true oils and fats persists. The disappearance of the stain 
depends on the evaporation of the vegetable aromatic sub¬ 
stances—a quality not possessed by fats. Hence the volatile 
vegetable aromatic substances, in contradistinction from non¬ 
volatile fixed or fatty oils, have been designated as essential 
or volatile or ethereal oils. Inasmuch as the latter terms are 
the ordinary trade names for these substances, we are com¬ 
pelled to retain them despite their incorrectness. The French 
name for essential oils is essences; “essence de lavande,” for 
instance, is the French name for essential oil of lavender, and 
not for an alcoholic solution of the oil, as might be inferred 
from the usually accepted meaning of the English terms “ es¬ 
sence of lavender,” “essence of peppermint,” etc., which mean 
solutions of these essential oils in alcohol. 

As the localities where the raw materials—that is, the 
aromatic plants—are cultivated on a large scale naturally 
constitute the places of manufacture of essential oils, we find 
in southern France and in England the most extensive facto¬ 
ries devoted exclusively to the preparation of perfumes. In 
the countries named, a favorable influence is exerted, too, by 
their situation near the sea, as well as by their trade with 
tropical lands from which additional aromatic plants are im¬ 
ported. 

We have stated above that the manufacture of essential 
oils forms almost a monopoly in France and England; but 
there is no doubt that this country (the United States) like- 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 15 

wise possesses many localities favorable to the cultivation of 
certain aromatic plants and the preparation of essential oils 
from them, so that this branch of industry could be carried 
on at a profit. For this reason we have in our descriptions 
devoted some attention to the conditions of growth required 
by such plants as might be raised here. We even find that 
some advantages are derived from the hot-house cultivation 
of some tropical plants. 

An exact knowledge of the chemical properties of a sub¬ 
stance is in all cases the first and fundamental condition for 
its preparation; it would appear necessary, therefore, that 
we should endeavor to gain complete information about the 
nature of vegetable aromatic substances before we enter upon 
the description of the various methods of their preparation. 

The Chemical Constitution of Vegetable Aromatic 

Substances. 

The sources of the odors derived from the vegetable king¬ 
dom can be divided, as stated above, into so-called essential 
oils, balsams, gum-resins or soft resins, and hard resins. Since 
the latter bear a certain relation to the essential oils from 
which they are formed through chemical combinations, we 
must consider them first. 

The flowers, the fruits and their rinds, or even the wood 
of some plants form the receptacles of essential oils; if they 
are liquid they are called essential oils par excellence; if they 
are firm they are called camphors. Besides, there are inter¬ 
mediate states between them: oil of rose is always viscid and 
solidifies even at temperatures considerably above the freez- 
ing-point of water (see under Oil of Rose). 

The bodies which are generally called essential oils are 
usually mixtures of a hydrocarbon with an oxygenated body, 
or an unchanged oil with another which has become altered 
by the influence of the oxygen of the air—a condition to 


16 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

which we shall recur later on. With reference to their ele¬ 
mentary composition, essential oils may be divided into two 
groups: 

1. Non-oxygenated essential oils. 

2. Oxygenated essential oils. 

The non-oxgenated essential oils consist only of two ele¬ 
ments—carbon and hydrogen; the other group, as the name 
indicates, contains a third element in chemical combination, 
and consist of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen. Most of the 
essential oils of ‘the first group have the same chemical com¬ 
position : C10H16 (10 atoms of carbon combined with 16 atoms 
of hydrogen). Despite the like chemical composition, all the 
essential oils display different physical qualities; they vary 
in density, in refractive power, in boiling-point (often by many 
degrees), and, a matter of the greatest importance for our 
purposes, in their odor. We may state at once that but few 
essential oils can be said to have a pleasant odor; that of 
most of them is even disagreeable and narcotic to the olfac¬ 
tory nerves; it is only after the oil has been extremely diluted 
that the odor begins to become pleasant and to resemble 
that of the plant from which the oil was derived. 

According to their physical qualities, essential oils may be 
described as fluids of a specific narcotic odor, colorless but 
very refractive, and easily inflammable. Only a few essential 
oils can be produced in such a state of purity as to appear 
perfectly colorless; usually they are more or less dark yellow 
in color, and some even possess a characteristic tint; thus oil 
of acacia is reddish-brown, oils of rose and absinth are green, 
oil of chamomile is blue. But a simple experiment will show 
that the color is not inseparably connected with the oil, for 
certain tinted oils can be obtained perfectly colorless by being 
distilled with another, less volatile oil which retains the color¬ 
ing matter. 

The boiling-point of essential oils is in general very high 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 1 7 

—between i6o° and 288° of the centigrade thermometer (C.), 
or 320° to 55 °° F* The fact that we smell the essential oils 
in aromatic plants so distinctly despite their high boiling-point 
is an evidence of their exceedingly strong influence on the 
olfactory nerves. 

A peculiar property of essential oils, which is of great im¬ 
portance in their preparation, is that of distilling over in large 
quantities with steam—both ordinary and superheated—that 
is, at temperatures at most only slightly exceeding ioo° C. or 
212 0 F. For this reason essential oils are usually obtained in 
this way, since they are but slightly soluble in water. Still, 
most of the oils dissolve in water in sufficient amount to im¬ 
part to it their characteristic odor and thus to render it often 
very fragrant. Aqua Naphae triplex (orange-flower water), 
rose water, etc., are such as have been distilled over with the 
essential oils, contain a small quantity of the latter in solution, 
and hence have a very agreeable odor. 

All essential oils dissolve readily in strong alcohol, petro¬ 
leum ether, benzol, bisulphide of carbon, in liquid and solid 
fats, in glycerin, etc.; we shall again recur to this important 
subject under the head of the preparation of the essential 
oils. 

If a freshly prepared essential oil is at once excluded from 
the air by being placed in hermetically sealed vessels which 
it completely fills, and is kept from the light, the oil will re¬ 
main unchanged for any length of time. But if an essential 
oil is exposed to the air, a peculiar, chemical alteration begins, 
which proceeds more rapidly and obviously if direct light acts 
upon the oil at the same time. The odor becomes less intense, 
the oil grows darker in color and more viscous, and also ac¬ 
quires a peculiar quality: it has a strong bleaching effect 
which is easily seen on the cork closing the bottle, which is 
beautifully bleached. After a certain time the oil changes to 

a viscid, less odorous mass, into balsam, and the latter, after 
2 


) 

1 8 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

the prolonged influence of the air, finally changes into a 
brownish, odorless substance, into resin. 

These remarkable physical and chemical alterations de¬ 
pend on the fact that the essential oil absorbs oxygen from 
the air, which it puts into a peculiar condition in which it 
exerts increased chemical activity and is termed ozonized oxy¬ 
gen. One of the most marked of these effects is the uncom¬ 
monly strong bleaching power of ozonized or active oxygen. 
When an essential oil that has altered so far as to contain 
ozonized oxygen—which is shown by its bleaching vegetable 
coloring matters such as the juice of cherries, red beets, 
tincture of litmus, etc., agitated with it—is cooled, we notice 
the separation from it of a usually crystalline, colorless, and 
odorless body called stearopten, while the remaining liquid 
part is called elaeopten. Stearopten always contains oxygen, 
while elaeopten still consists only of carbon and hydrogen. 

In the formation of the stearopten we distinctly see the 
beginning process of resinification, which, therefore, is nothing 
but an oxidation (combination of the essential oil with oxy¬ 
gen). It should, however, be stated that as to many essential 
oils this is not proven by actual observation. Many of them are 
not known to us as naturally existing without any stearopten. 
Balsams are essential oils which have to a great extent changed 
into resin, which they contain in solution, and thereby have 
become more or less viscid. If the process of oxidation goes 
still farther, eventually the greater portion of the essential oil 
becomes oxidized, the entire mass grows firm, and then pos¬ 
sesses only a very faint odor which is due to the last remnants 
of the unchanged essential oil. 

Since aromatic substances during evaporation become 
mixed with air, it appears probable that they act upon the olfac¬ 
tory nerves only at the moment when they become oxidized. 

The entire process of resinification of oil of turpentine can 
be followed very clearly on the pitch pine (Pinus austriaca, or 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


19 


other species of Pinus), just as oil of turpentine in general can 
be taken as an example of an essential oil on which the pecu¬ 
liarities of the non-oxygenated essential oils may be easily 
studied. In many localities the pitch pine is partly deprived 
of its bark when it has reached a certain age. From the trunk 
exudes oil of turpentine which in the air becomes more and 
more viscid by the absorption of oxygen and changes into 
balsam, called turpentine. The latter is collected and distilled 
with water, when the unchanged oil of turpentine passes over 
with the steam, while the odorless resin (rosin or colophony) 
remains behind in the stills. 

The above-mentioned qualities of the essential oils indicate 
naturally how those used in perfumery, which are often very 
costly, are to be preserved. For this purpose small strong 
bottles should be chosen which are closed with well-fitting 
glass stoppers, over which is applied a glass capsule ground 
to fit tightly over the neck of the bottle. These bottles should 
always be completely filled (hence small bottles should be se¬ 
lected), and kept tightly closed , in the dark . As the action of 
oxygen is retarded by low temperatures, it is advisable to 
keep bottles containing essential oils in a cool cellar. But 
care must be had never to pour out an essential oil in the 
cellar near an open candle light. The vapors are very apt to 
take fire, as they are quite inflammable. 

As there are a great many aromatic vegetable substances, 
so there are numerous odors, or, to retain the customary 
though incorrect appellation, numerous essential oils. All of 
these, however, cannot be used in the art of perfumery, as 
some of them do not possess a pleasant odor, as is the case, 
for instance, with oil of turpentine. (We may state here, 
however, that very pure oil of turpentine, distilled from cer¬ 
tain Coniferae, has an agreeable, refreshing odor which at 
present has found application in perfumery under the title of 
forest perfume or pine-needle essence.) Besides, there are 


I 


20 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


numerous essential oils which, while possessing a very pleas¬ 
ant odor, still cannot be used in perfumery except for very 
cheap preparations, though they are employed in much larger 
quantities in the manufacture of liqueurs. Such oils are: oil 
of cumin, fennel, juniper, absinth, etc. 

As we shall return to this subject in connection with the 
essential oils which are used in perfumery in general, we will 
now consider at greater length the aromatic vegetable sub¬ 
stances which are employed for the manufacture of fragrant 
odors. 


CHAPTER IV. 

THE AROMATIC VEGETABLE SUBSTANCES EM¬ 
PLOYED IN PERFUMERY. 

EVERY fragrant portion of a plant can be used for the 
preparation of an aromatic substance, and therefore for the 
manufacture of a perfume. Hence we are unable, in the fol¬ 
lowing enumeration of the aromatic vegetable substances, to 
make any claim to absolute completeness; for every new sci¬ 
entific expedition may acquaint us with hitherto unknown 
plants from which the finest odors may be obtained. We 
have said above that we have not yet even fixed in our per¬ 
fumes all the odors of the known aromatic plants, and there¬ 
fore there is still a large field open to the progressive manu¬ 
facturer. 

In the following pages we must restrict ourselves to the 
description of those aromatic vegetable substances which are 
used in the laboratories of the most advanced and scientific 
perfumers for the manufacture of odors. At the same time 
we lay particular stress on the fact that the knowledge of 
these raw materials is a matter of the greatest importance to 
the manufacturer of perfumes because it enables him <"o ap- 



PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


21 


preciate the differences, often very minute, between fine and 
inferior qualities. Every manufacturer who aims at the pro¬ 
duction of fine goods must make it the rule to use nothing but 
the best raw materials. 

The price of the latter is apparently disproportionately 
high; for all that, only the most expensive materials should 
be bought, for it is the only kind that can be used. Let us 
give but two instances in illustration. We find in the market, 
grades of vanilla the prices of which are as one to four; the 
latter is fresh and contains the aromatic substance in large 
amount; the former is old, dry, and worthless, with an artifi¬ 
cial glossy surface and little odor. The differences in the 
price are still greater in an aromatic substance of animal ori¬ 
gin, musk, the cheapest grades of which are altogether artifi¬ 
cial and perfumed with a mere trace of genuine musk. 

Of course, the same remark applies to the raw materials 
of animal origin and to the chemical products, all of which 
should be of the greatest purity obtainable. 

The aromatic substances at present employed in perfumery 
for the extraction of odors are the following. 

Allspice. 

Latin —Pimenta ; French —Piment; German —Piment ; Nel- 

kenpfeffer. 

This spice consists of the fruit berries, at first green, later 
black, of the Eugenia Pimenta, indigenous to Central America 
and the Antilles. It is chiefly used in the manufacture of 
liqueurs, less in perfumery, though it may be employed as an 
addition to certain strong odors, particularly that of oil of 
bay; it serves very nicely for scenting cheap soap. 

Anise. 

Latin —Pimpinella Anisum ; French —Anis; Germayi —Anis. 

This well-known plant, which is cultivated in many locali¬ 
ties on a large scale, belongs to the Order of Umbelliferae. 


22 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


The seeds contain about three per cent of a very aromatic essen¬ 
tial oil which finds application in the manufacture of soap and 
in cheap perfumery; it is chiefly used as a flavoring for liqueurs. 
Good anise must have a light green color, an agreeable sweet¬ 
ish* odor, and a sharp taste. In order to increase the weight, 
anise is occasionally moistened with water; such seeds look 
swollen, are apt to become slimy, and then furnish a less fra¬ 
grant oil. Anise is not to be confounded with star-anise, 
which will be mentioned hereafter. 

Balm. 

Latin —Melissa officinalis; French —Melisse; German — 

Melissenkraut. 

Melissa officinalis, an herbaceous plant with large, beautiful 
flowers, which grows wild in our woods, contains a very sweet¬ 
smelling oil in small quantities. This can be extracted by 
distillation from the fresh herb, and furnishes very fine per¬ 
fumes. 

Oil of Melissa of the market is, however, usually an East 
Indian oil, derived from Andropogon citratus. See under 
Citronella. 

Bay (Sweet Bay). 

Latin —Laurus nobilis; French —Laurier; German —Lor- 

beerfrtichte. 

The fruits of the bay-tree contain much essential oil which 
is used less in the manufacture of perfumery than for scenting 
soap. Venice is the most important point of export. See 
the next article. 


Bay (West Indian). 

Latin —Myrcia acris; French— (Huile de) Bay; German — 

Bay (-Oel). 

The essential oil obtained from the leaves of this tree, a 
native of the West Indies, possesses a very aromatic, refresh- 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 23 

ing odor somewhat resembling that of allspice. It is known 
in the market as bay oil or oil of bay. During the last decade 
or so its use has largely extended, and, while formerly almost 
unknown on the continent of Europe, has become an impor¬ 
tant article for the perfumer. An alcoholic distillate, prepared 
by distilling the fresh leaves with the crude spirit from which 
rum is otherwise obtained, is known as bay-rum, and is used 
as a pleasant and refreshing wash for the skin. Bay-rum may 
also be made by dissolving the oil, together with certain other 
Vingredients, in alcohol. 


Benzoin. 

Latin —Benzoinum; French —Benjoin; German —Benzoeharz. 

This gum-resin, which possesses a pleasant vanilla-like 
odor, comes from a tree belonging to the Order of Styraca- 
ceae, the Styrax Benzoin, and probably another species of 
Styrax, indigenous to tropical Asia, especially Siam and Suma¬ 
tra. The collection of benzoin is very similar to that of pine 
resin; the bark of the tree is cut open, the exuding juice is 
allowed to harden on the trunk, and is thus brought into com¬ 
merce. Benzoin differs according to its origin, the age of the 
tree, etc., and in commerce a number of sorts (Siam, Penang, 
Palembang, and Sumatra) are distinguished. As a rule, ben¬ 
zoin comes in lumps ranging in size to that of a child’s head. 
They are of a light gray color and inclose white, almond-shaped 
pieces. The finest quality, known as Siam benzoin after its 
source, usually is in small pieces (Siam benzoin in tears) which 
are translucent, light yellow to brown externally, but milky 
white on fracture, and have a strong vanilla odor. Less fine but 
still very good is Siam benzoin in lumps, consisting of large 
reddish-brown pieces inclosing white particles. All other 
kinds mentioned above come from the island of Sumatra, in 
lumps the size of a fist. What was formerly known as Calcutta 
benzoin formed large friable pieces of a dirty reddish-gray 


24 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


color. Siam as well as Penang benzoin often contains,-besides 
benzoic acid, also cinnamic acid; it is not known why it is not 
a regular constituent. The worst quality is sold as “ benzoin 
sorts,” consisting of brownish pieces without white spots; they 
are often mixed with splinters of wood, bast fibres, and frag¬ 
ments of leaves, and can be used only for cheap perfumes. 

Good benzoin, besides the qualities named, must have a 
sweetish and burning sharp taste, it should be very friable, 
and when heated in a porcelain capsule should emit vapors 
(benzoic acid) of an acrid taste and a pronounced aromatic 
odor; it should dissolve completely in strong alcohol. In 
perfumery, benzoin serves for the preparation of many odors, 
washes, and the manufacture of benzoic acid. The latter will 
be further discussed under the head of aromatic substances 
obtained by means of chemistry. 

Bergamot. 

Latin —Citrus Bergamia; French —Bergamote; German — 

Bergamottefriichte. 

The bergamot is the fruit of a tree belongingto the Order 
of Aurantiaceae, which is cultivated in Calabria. The tree is 
unknown in a wild state. The golden-yellow or greenish- 
yellow fruits, resembling a lemon in shape, have a bitter and 
at the same time acid pulp; the thin rind contains a very fra¬ 
grant oil which is used largely in the manufacture of fine per¬ 
fumery and soaps, and is exported chiefly from Messina and 
Palermo. 


Bitter Almonds. 

Latin —Amygdala amara; French —Amandes amcres; Ger¬ 
man —Bittere Mandeln. 

The well-known fruits of the bitter almond-tree (Amygda- 
lus communis, var. amara). There are no definite botanical 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 25 

differences between the sweet and the bitter almond-tree. 
The only distinct difference is the character of the respective 
fruits. The aromatic substance obtained from bitter almonds 
is not present fully formed in the fruits, but results from the 
chemical transformation of the amygdalin they contain; the 
latter body is absent in sweet almonds. 

Cajuput Leaves. 

Latin —Folia Cajuputi. 

The leaves of Melaleuca Cajuputi, a tree found in the In¬ 
dian and Malay Archipelago, which have an aromatic odor 
resembling that of cardamoms. In the Orient the leaves are 
used as incense and for the extraction of the oil they contain. 

Camphor Wood. 

Latin —Lignum Camphorse; French —Bois de camphre: 

German —Campherholz. 

The wood of the Camphor-tree, native of China and Japan, 
is exceedingly rich in essential oil, the firm, white, and strong- 
scented camphor. The latter is usually prepared from the 
wood at the home of the tree, especially in Formosa and Japan, 
so that the wood hardly forms an article of commerce and is 
here enumerated only for completeness’ sake. In China and 
in Japan, however, it is largely used for the manufacture of 
cloth-chests, trunks and wardrobes, as these are never invaded 
by insects. 

Caraway Seed. 

Latin —Semen Carvi; French —Carvi ; German —Kiimmel- 

samen. 

This plant, Carum Carvi, which is largely cultivated in 
Germany, contains in its seeds from four to seven per cent of 
essential oil which is extracted by distillation. Genuine cara¬ 
way seed is brownish-yellow, pointed at both ends, quite gla- 


26 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


brous on examination with a lens, and marked with five lon¬ 
gitudinal ribs. Caraway is occasionally confounded with 
cumin seed, from Cuminum Cyminum, which is easily recog¬ 
nized with a lens: the seeds of the latter plant have fourteen 
longitudinal ribs and are hairy. The use of caraway in per¬ 
fumery is limited to ordinary goods, but in the manufacture 
of liqueurs it is largely employed. 

Cascarilla Bark. 

Latin —Cortex Cascarillae; French —Cascarille; German — 

Cascarillarinde. 

This is the bark of a West Indian tree, Croton Eluteria, 
belonging to the Order of Euphorbiaceae, native of the Baha¬ 
mas. It occurs in commerce in the shape of pieces the length 
and thickness of a finger; externally it is white and fissured, 
internally of a brown color and resinous. Good qualities 
should be free from dust and fractured pieces (sifted casca¬ 
rilla), of a warm aromatic taste, and a very agreeable odor 
which becomes more marked on being heated. Another 
variety of cascarilla derived from South Africa, Cascarilla 
gratissima, has very fragrant leaves which can be used imme¬ 
diately as incense, just as cascarilla in general is employed in 
perfumery chiefly for fumigating powders and waters. 

Cassie. 

Latm — Acacia farnesiana; French — Cassie ; German — 

Acacie. 

The flowers of Acacia farnesiana (Willd.), one of the true 
acacias, native of the East Indies, which flourishes farther 
north than the other varieties, cultivated largely in southern 
France for the delightful odor which resembles that of violets 
but is more intense. The flowers are collected and made to 
yield their odorous principle by one of the methods to be de¬ 
scribed hereafter. The plant which is generally but falsely 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


2; 


called Acacia in this country, viz., Robinia pseudoacacia, like¬ 
wise bears very fragrant flowers which undoubtedly can be 
made to yield a perfume by some one of the usual methods; 
but so far we know of no perfume into which the odor of 
Robinia flowers enters. Moreover, it is not alone the flowers 
of Acacia farnesiana which may be utilized for the preparation 
of the cassie perfume ; the black currant, Ribes niger, contains 
in its flowers an odor closely resembling the former; this is 
actually used in the preparation of an oil sold under the name 
of “ oil of cassie.” The latter plant flourishes in our northern 
States and would answer as a substitute for Acacia farnesina, 
which cannot stand our northern winters. 

Cedar Wood. 

Latin —Lignum Cedri; French —Bois de cedre ; German — 

Cedernholz. 

The wood met with in commerce is derived from the Vir¬ 
ginian juniper tree, Juniperus virginiana, which is used in 
large quantities for inclosing lead pencils. The chips, the 
offal from this manufacture, can be employed with advantage 
for the extraction of the essential oil contained therein. Long 
uniform shavings of this wood are also used for fumigation, 
and the sawdust for cheap sachet powders. Cedar wood is 
reddish-brown, fragrant, very soft, and splits easily. In the 
perfumery industry it usually passes under the name of the 
“ cedar of Lebanon,” although the wood from the last-men¬ 
tioned tree (Cedrus libanotica) has quite a different agreeable 
odor, is very firm, reddish-brown, and of a very bitter taste— 
qualities by which it is readily distinguished from the other. 

Cinnamon. 

Latin —Cinnamomum; French —Canelle; German —Zimmt- 

rinde. 

Cinnamon consists of the bark of the young twigs of the 


28 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


cinnamon-tree, Cinnamomum zeylanicum, indigenous to Cey¬ 
lon. Good cinnamon consists of thin, tubular, rolled pieces 
of bark which are smooth, light brown (darker on fracture), of 
a pronounced characteristic odor, and a burning and at the 
same time sweet taste. The most valuable in commerce is 
that from Ceylon; the thicker bark is less fine. 

Chinese cinnamon or cassia (French, Cassie; German, Zimmt- 
cassia) consists of the bark of the cassia-tree, an undeter¬ 
mined species of Cinnamomum indigenous to Southern China; 
this is grayish-brown and has the general properties of true 
cinnamon, but it as well as the oil extracted from it has a less 
fine odor than cinnamon or oil of cinnamon. A very fine 
kind of Cinnamon has for a number of years past appeared 
on the market under the name of Saigon cinnamon. It is 
very rich in oil, and is exported from Cochin-China. Besides 
the true oils of cinnamon and cassia, other essential oils are 
met with in commerce under the names of oil of cinnamon 
flowers and oil of cinnamon leaves, but their odor is not so 
fine as that of the former. The so-called cinnamon flowers 
are the unripe fruits of various cinnamon laurels, collected 
after the fall of the blossoms. They form brownish cones 
the length of the nail of the little finger, and furnish an essen¬ 
tial oil whose odor resembles that of cinnamon. 

Citron. 

Latin —Fructus Citri; French —Citron; German —Citronen- 

friichte. 

The fruit of a tree, Citrus medica, indigenous to northern 
India, but largely cultivated in the countries situated around 
the Mediterranean and in other countries It is cultivated 
both for the pleasant acid juice of the fruit and for their fra¬ 
grant rinds. Only the latter are of value for our purposes. 
It occurs in European commerce under the name of Citro- 
nat or citron peel. Good commercial citron peel should be 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


2 9 


in quarters and as fresh as possible, which is shown by its soft¬ 
ness, the yellow color, and the strong odor. Old peel looks 
shrunken and brownish and has but little pleasant odor. 

Citron Flowers. 

Latin —Flores Citri; French —Fleurs de citron; German — 

Citronenbltithen. 

The flowers of the citron-tree (Citrus medica) are white, 
fragrant, and contain a very aromatic essential oil; but as the 
oil is always extracted from the fresh flowers, the latter do 
not form an article of commerce. 

Cherrylaurel Leaves. 

Latin —Folia Laurocerasi; French —Laurier-cerise ; Ger¬ 
man — Kirschlorbeerblatter. 

The leaves of this tree (Prunus Laurocerasus), which is 
largely cultivated for officinal purposes, furnish an odorous 
substance completely identical with that contained in bitter 
almonds, or, rather, formed in them under certain conditions. 
As the extraction of the odorous substance from bitter al¬ 
monds is much cheaper, cherrylaurel is but rarely used. 

ClTRONELLA. 

Latin —-Andropogon Nardus; French —Citronelle; German — 

Citronella. 

This grass, which, like the oil prepared from it, is called 
citronella, is a native of northern India, and is largely culti¬ 
vated in Ceylon, where large quantities are worked for the 
oil; for this reason the grass itself is seldom met with in com¬ 
merce. Its odor is somewhat similar to that of the Indian 
lemon grass, that of verbena, and that of several other aro¬ 
matic plants, in place of which citronella is frequently em¬ 
ployed. 

Much confusion exists in much of the current literature 

/ 


30 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


regarding the source and synonymy of the Indian grass oils 
and allied products. The following list contains the most 
important ones: 

1. Andropogon citratus DC.—Lemon Grass. The oil is 
known as Lemon Grass Oil, Indian Verbena Oil or Indian 
Melissa Oil, or simply Oil of Verbena or Oil of Melissa. 

2. Andropogon laniger Desf.—This is the Juncus odoratus 
or Herba Schoenanthi of older pharmacy. No oil is prepared 
from this. 

3. Andropogo?imuricatus Retz.—Cuscus or Vetiver. Source 
of Oil of Vetiver. 

4. Andropogon nardus L.—Citronella. Source of Oil of 
Citronella. 

5. Andropogon Schoenanthus L.—Ginger Grass. The oil is 
known as Oil of Ginger Grass, Oil of Geranium Grass, Oil of 
Indian Geranium or simply Oil of Geranium, also Oil of Rose 
Geranium [“ Rose ” is here a corruption of the Hindostanee 
name of the plant, viz., Rusa], Oil of Rusa Grass, Oil of 
Rusa, Oil of Palmarosa.—The two terms “ Oil of Geranium ” 
and “ Oil of Rose Geranium ” should be abandoned for this 
oil, to avoid confusion with the “ Oil of (Rose) Geranium ” 
obtained from Pelargonium. See under “ Geranium.” 

Clove. 

Latin —Caryophylli; French —Clous de girofle ; German — 

Nelkengewtirz. 

% 

This well-known spice comes from a tree, Caryophyllus 
aromaticus, native of the Moluccas, and largely cultivated at 
Zanzibar, Pemba, and elsewhere. It consists of the closed 
buds. The main essential of good quality is the greatest pos¬ 
sible freshness, which may be recognized by the cloves being 
full, heavy, reddish-brown, and of a fatty aspect, and they 
must contain so much essential oil (about 18 per cent) that 
when crushed between the fingers the latter should be stained 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


31 


yellowish-brown. Before buying, this test should always be 
made, and attention paid to the fact whether the whitish dust 
is present in the wrinkles about the head. We have found in 
commerce cloves from which the essential oil had been fraudu- 

\ 

lently extracted with alcohol and hence were worthless; such 
cloves may be recognized by the faint odor and taste, but es¬ 
pecially by the absence of the whitish dust. 

Cucumber. 

Latin —Cucumis sativus; French —Concombre ; German — 

Gurke. 

The well-known fruits of this kitchen-garden plant, though 
not strictly sweet-scented, possess a peculiar refreshing odor 
which has found application in perfumery. Certain products 
belonging under this head require the odor of cucumber, and 
therefore this plant is to be included among the aromatic 
plants in a wider sense. 

Culilaban Bark. 

Latin —Cortex Culilavan ; French —Ecorce culilaban; Ger¬ 
man —Kulilabanrinde. 

The bark of Cinnamomum Culilavan Nees, a plant indige¬ 
nous to the Molucca islands, used to occur in commerce’in 
the shape of long, flat pieces of a yellowish-brown color, with 
an odor like a mixture of cinnamon, sassafras, and clove oils. 
It is rarely met with now. 

Dill. 

Latin —Semen Anethi; French —Aneth; German — Dillsamen. 

This plant, Anethum graveolens, which is indigenous to 
the Mediterranean region and southern Russia, contains in 
all its parts, particularly in the seeds, an oil of a peculiar 
odor, which is used as a perfume for soap, also in cheap per¬ 
fumery, and especially as a flavoring for liqueurs. 



32 

w 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Elder Flowers. 

Latin —Flores Sambuci; French —Sureau ; German —Hol- 

lunderbliithen. 

This bush, Sambucus niger, which grows wild in Europe, 
bears umbellar flowers which are officinal, but contain be¬ 
sides a pleasant odor which can be extracted from them. 
The odor of the flowers deteriorates on drying, hence in per¬ 
fumery only the fresh flowers should be used. The American 
elder (Sambucus canadensis) could easily be used in place of it. 

Fennel (Seed and Herb). 

Latin —Fceniculum; French —Fenouil; Gentian —Fenchel. 

This plant, Fceniculum vulgare, Order Umbelliferae, is 
largely cultivated in Europe. It contains an essential oil in 
all its parts, but especially in the seeds. The plant is rarely 
used in perfumery, but more frequently in the manufacture 
of liqueurs. The herb, dried‘and comminuted, enters into the 
composition of some cheap sachets. 

Frangipanni (see Plumeria). 

Geranium. 

Latin —Pelargonium roseum ; FrencJi —Geranium; German — 

Geranium. 

This plant, originally indigenous in South Africa, contains 
in its leaves an essential oil whose odor closely resembles that 
of roses. At present it is cultivated on a large scale in many 
parts of France and in Turkey, solely for the purposes of per¬ 
fumery. This plant would grow freely in our Southern and 
Middle States, and could be cultivated with advantage for the 
extraction of its highly valued perfume. 

The terms “ Oil of Geranium ” and “ Oil of Rose Gera¬ 
nium ” ought to be restricted in commerce to the oil obtained 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


33 


from true geranium (Pelargonium). Unfortunately, they are 
yet very commonly applied to an East Indian oil obtained 
from a species of Andropogon (see under Citronella). 

Hedyosmum Flowers. 

On the Antilles there are a number of bushes belonging 
to the Genus Hedyosmum, Order Chloranthaceae, whose 
flowers possess a magnificent, truly intoxicating odor. Thus 
far these odors seem to have been accessible only to English 
perfumers. The perfumes sold under this name by Conti¬ 
nental manufacturers are merely combinations of different 
odors. 

Heliotrope. 

Latin —Heliotropium peruvianum; French —Heliotrope; 

German —Heliotropenbliithen. 

The flowers of this plant, which flourishes well in all tem¬ 
perate or tropic countries, possess a very pleasant odor, about 
the preparation of which we shall have more to say hereafter. 
In Europe only French perfumers have manufactured it; ac¬ 
cording to the author’s experiments, however, its extraction 
presents no more difficulty than that of any other plant. 

A synthetic, chemical product, known as piperonal, related 
to vanillin and cumarin, possesses the odor of the heliotrope 
in a most remarkable degree. It is therefore much used to 

imitate the latter. In commerce it is known as heliotropin. 

\ 

Honeysuckle. 

Latin —Flores Lonicerae; French —Chevre-feuille ; German 

—Geisblattbliithen. 

This well-known climbing plant, Lonicera Caprifolium, 
found in many of our garden bowers, contains an exceedingly 
fragrant oil in its numerous flowers, from which the author has 

prepared it. [Some of the American species of honeysuckle 
3 


34 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


would, no doubt, likewise yield an essential oil.] The oil sold 
in commerce under this name is not obtained from these 
flowers, but is an imitation of the odor conventionally ac¬ 
cepted for it. The true oil of honeysuckle, first prepared by 
the author, far surpasses these imitations in fragrance. 

Hyssop. 

Latin —Hyssopus officinalis; French —Hyssope; German 

—Ysopkraut. 

Hyssop posseses a strong odor, a very bitter taste, and is 
used only for cheap perfumery, but more frequently in the 
manufacture of liqueurs. 

Jasmine. 

Latin —Jasminum odoratissimum ; French —Jasmin; Ger¬ 
man —J asminbliithen. 

True jasmine—not to be confounded with German jasmine 
(Philadelphus coronarius, known here as the mock orange, or 
the Syringa of cultivation) which is likewise employed in per¬ 
fumery—flourishes particularly in the coast lands of the Medi¬ 
terranean, where it is cultivated as a dwarf tree. The odor 
obtained from the flowers is one of the finest and most ex¬ 
pensive in existence, and for this reason it would be well worth 
trying the cultivation in our southern States. At present 
nearly all the true jasmine perfume (pomade, extract, etc.) 
comes from France. 

Lavender. 

Latin —Lavandula vera; French —Lavande; German —La- 

vendel. 

True lavender, which belongs to the Order of Labiatae 
that contains many aromatic plants, is one of the most an¬ 
cient in our art; it was early used in Greece for purposes of 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


35 


perfumery. Although true lavender flourishes througnout 
central Europe, its cultivation on a large scale is carried on 
chiefly in England, and the oil of lavender from English fac¬ 
tories is most highly prized. Much lavender is also grown in 
France, but the product, though very fine, has a much lower 
value. 

True lavender is to be distinguished from spike-lavender 
(French, aspic; German, Spik-Lavendel), whose odor is simi¬ 
lar to that of true lavender, but furnishes a much less aromatic 
perfume. The cultivation of lavender in this country (U. S.) 
might give good results. 

Lemon. 

Latin —Citrus Limonum ; French —Limon ; German —Li- 

monenfrtichte. 

The fruits of the South European lemon-tree, not to be 
confounded with citrons, resemble the latter in appearance, 
but they are smaller, have a more acid taste and a thinner 
rind. The peel contains an essential oil which is very similar 
in odor to that of the citron. Hence the oils of lemon, limetta 
(from Citrus Limetta), and citron are used for the same pur¬ 
poses ; but when the three oils are immediately compared, an 
experienced olfactory organ perceives a marked difference 
between them. 


Lemon Grass. 

Latin —Andropogon citrates; French —Schoenanthe; Ger¬ 
man —Citronengrass. 

This grass, which bears a close resemblance to citronella, 
is largely cultivated, especially in India and Ceylon, for the 
essential oil it contains. The odor of the grass is similar to 
that of verbena, so that its oil is often used as an adulterant 
or rather as a substitute for the former. (Compare the article 
on “Citronella.”) 


36 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

Lilac. 

Latin —Flores Syringse; French —Lilas; German —Flieder- 

bliithen. 

This plant, Syringa vulgaris, a native of Persia but fully 
acclimated in Europe and in this country, has very fragrant 
flowers, the odor of which can be obtained only from the 
fresh blossoms. 

A recently discovered liquid principle, now known as ter- 
pineol (C io H I 7 OH), which exists in many essential oils, and in 
these, in the portion boiling between 420° and 424 0 F., possesses 
the lilac odor in a most pronounced degree, and to its pres¬ 
ence in the lilac flowers the peculiar odor of the latter is, no 
doubt, due. It is obtainable in the market under the name 
lilacine. 

The Syringa of the florists is not the true lilac, but the 
same as the Mock Orange, viz., Philadelphus coronarius. 

Lily. 

Latin —Lilium candidum; French —Lis; German —Lilien- 

bliithen. 

The remarks made under the head of Wallflower apply 
equally to the blossoms of the white garden lily: strange to 
say, they are not used in perfumery, and all the so-called odors 
of lily are mixtures of several aromatic substances. The 
author has succeeded in separating from the flowers, by means 
of petroleum ether, the delightful odor present in large amount 
in the blossoms of this plant, and has employed it in the manu¬ 
facture of magnificent perfumes. 

Mace. 

Latin —Macis; French —Macis; German —Muscatbliithe. 

This substance is the dried arillus covering the fruits of 
Myristica fragrans, the so-called nutmegs. The tree bearing 



PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


37 

them is indigenous to a group of islands in the Indian Archi¬ 
pelago and is cultivated especially on the Molucca islands. 
Although mace is in such close relation with nutmeg, yet, 
strange to say, the aromatic substance differs decidedly from 
that of the nut. Mace of good quality forms pieces of orange- 
yellow color; they are fleshy, usually slit open on one side, 
have a strong odor, tear with difficulty, and are so oily that 
when crushed they stain the fingers brownish-yellow. Mace 
is largely used in the preparation of sachets and particularly 
for scenting soap. In England, soap scented with mace is 
well liked. 

Magnolia. 

Latin —Magnolia grandiflora; French —Magnolia; German 

—Magnoliabliithen. 

The magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), indigenous to the 
warmer parts of South, Central, and North America, bears 
large white flowers having a delightful odor which can be ex¬ 
tracted by means of petroleum ether. In the same way, truly 
intoxicating perfumes may be obtained from other varieties of 
magnolia. In our climate these plants flourish only in con¬ 
servatories, and in their home no steps have yet been taken 
to utilize these natural treasures in a proper way; hence 
European manufacturers invariably produce the perfume 
called magnolia by combination of different odors. 

Marjoram. 

Latin —Herba majoranae ; French —Marjolaine; German — 

Majorankraut. 

This plant, Origanum Majorana (vulgare), frequently culti¬ 
vated in kitchen gardens, possesses in all its parts a strong 
odor due to an essential oil. The latter, which is quite ex¬ 
pensive, is but little used, and probably only for culinary pur¬ 
poses. 


38 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

“ Oil of Origanum ” in English-speaking countries is in¬ 
tended to mean Oil of Thyme (from Thymus vulgaris), and 
never means Oil of Marjoram. 

Meadow Sweet. 

Latin —Spiraea ulmaria; French —Reine des prds; German — 

Spierstaude. 

This plant is frequent in Europe on damp meadows, and 
contains an aromatic substance closely allied to oil of winter- 
green, which occurs also in the Canadian variety. 

Mint. 

Latin —Mentha; French —Menthe; German —Minze. 

The varieties of mint claiming our attention are the follow¬ 
ing: Mentha piperita, Peppermint (French : Menthe poivree ; 
German: Pfefferminze).— Mentha viridis , Spearmint (French : 
Menthe verte; German: Grime Minze).— Mentha crispa, Crisp 
Mint (French: Menthe crepue [or frisee]; German: Krause 
Minze). 

All of the mints have a pleasant odor; besides the plants 
named above, we may mention Mentha aquatica, whose odor 
faintly but distinctly recalls that of musk. Like lavender, 
Mentha crispa and M. piperita are cultivated particularly in 
England, and the English oils are the most superior. Men¬ 
tha piperita is also largely cultivated in the United States. 
Mentha viridis and its oil are almost exclusively confined to 
this country. 

Musk-Seed. 

Latin —Semen Abelmoschi; French —Grains d’ambrette; 

German —Bisamkorner. 

The tree, Hibiscus Abelmoschus, indigenous to Africa and 
India, bears fruit capsules containing reddish-gray seeds with 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


39 


grooved surface, so-called musk-seeds. They have an odor 
resembling musk, but much weaker, though it becomes more 
pronounced when the seeds are bruised. Besides this species 
of Hibiscus, other plants belonging to the same order are aro¬ 
matic and are also used in perfumery. 

Myrrh. 

Latin —Myrrha; French —Myrrhe; German —Myrrhe. 

The gum-resin which we call myrrh has long been known 
in the East, where it was celebrated as one of the finest per¬ 
fumes, along with spikenard and frankincense. The tree, 
Balsamodendron Myrrha (or Commiphora Myrrha Engler) is 
indigenous to the countries bordering the Red Sea to about 
22° N. Lat.; the gum exudes partly spontaneously from the 
trunk. In European commerce myrrh appears in different 
sorts; that called myrrha electa or myrrha in lacrimis is the 
most precious; it forms tears of a golden yellow to brown 
color, traversed by white veins; they have a pleasant smell. 
That called myrrha naturalis is inferior, but on being heated 
develops the characteristic aroma. In commerce a product 
is sometimes offered by the name of myrrh which is nothing 
but cherry-tree gum scented with genuine myrrh. 

Myrtle Leaves. 

Latin — Myrtus communis; French —M y r t e; German — 

Myrtenblatter. 

The leaves of this Southern European plant diffuse a pleas¬ 
ant odor; the oil to which it is due can be extracted by dis¬ 
tillation; yet the perfumes usually called myrtle are not ob¬ 
tained from the plant, but are made by the combination of 
several aromatic substances. The aromatic water known, 
especially in France, as “ eau d’anges ” is obtained by the dis¬ 
tillation of myrtle leaves with water. 


40 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Narcissus. 

Latin —Narcissus poeticus; French —Narcisse; German — 

Narcissenbliithen. 

The blossoms of this favorite garden plant, which is culti¬ 
vated on a large scale near Nice, have a pleasant, almost nar¬ 
cotic odor which maybe extracted in various ways; though 
the greatest part of the so-called narcissus perfumes are made 
artificially. 

Another species of Narcissus (Narcissus Jonquilla) is fre¬ 
quently cultivated in warm countries for its pleasant scent; 
but the perfumes generally found in the market under the 
name of Extract, etc., of Jonquil are artificial compounds. 

Nutmeg. 

Latin —Myristica; French —Muscade; German —Muscat- 

niisse. 

These nuts are almost spherical in shape, the size of a 
small walnut, of a grayish-brown color externally, and usually 
coated with a faint whitish-gray covering (which is lime). In¬ 
ternally they are reddish-brown, with white marbled spots. 
Good fresh nutmegs should be dense, heavy, and so oily that 
when pierced with a needle a drop of oil should follow the 
withdrawal of the latter. Nuts which are hollow, wormy, and 
of a faint odor cannot be used in perfumery. Oil of nutmeg 
is used extensively in perfumery, but is rarely employed pure, 
more commonly in combination with other strong odors. 

Olibanum. 

Latin —Olibanum ; French —Encens ; German —Weihrauch. 

This gum-resin, employed even by the ancient civilized 
nations of Asia, especially as incense for religious purposes, 
comes from East African trees, various species of Boswellia. 
Fine olibanum appears in light yellow tears, very transparent 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


41 


and hard, whose pleasant though faint odor becomes particu¬ 
larly marked when it is thrown on hot coals. In perfumery 
olibanum is used almost exclusively for pastils, fumigating 
powders, etc. Pulverulent olibanum constitutes an inferior 
quality and is often adulterated with pine resin. 

Opopanax. 

Latin —Resina Opopanax. 

The root stock of an umbelliferous plant, indigenous in 
Syria, now recognized at Balsamodendron Kafal, furnishes a 
yellow milky sap containing an aromatic resin with an odor 
resembling that of gum ammoniacum. At least the opopanax 
now obtainable in the market is derived from this source. 
True opopanax resin, such as used to reach the market 
formerly, is now unobtainable, and its true source is yet 
unknown. Opopanax oil is used in perfumery to some 
extent. 


Orange Flowers. 

Latin —Flores Aurantii; French —Fleurs d’oranges; German — 

Orangenbltithen. 

The flowers of the bitter orange tree (Citrus vulgaris), as 
well as those of the sweet (Citrus Aurantium), contain very 
fragrant essential oils, which differ in flavor and value accord¬ 
ing to their source and mode of preparation. See below, 
under Oil of Orange. The leaves, too, contain a peculiar oil 
used in perfumery. 


Orange Peel. 

Latin —Cortex Aurantii; French —Ecorce d’oranges; German 

—Orangenschalen. 

The very oily rinds of the orange occur in commerce in a 
dried form; such peels, however, can be used only in the 


42 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


manufacture of liqueurs; in perfumery nothing but the oil from 
the fresh rinds is employed, and this is generally obtained by 
pressure. 

Origanum. 

See Marjoram, and Thyme. 

Orris Root. 

Latin —Radix Iridis florentinae; French —Ins; German —Veil- 

chenwurzel. 

The Florentine sword-lily, Iris florentina, which often 
grows wild in Italy but is largely cultivated, has a creeping 
root-stock covered with a brown bark which, however, is peeled 
from the fresh root. Orris root occurs in commerce in whitish 
pieces which are sometimes forked; the surface is knotty, and 
the size may reach the thickness of a thumb and the length 
of a finger. When fresh, the roots have a disagreeable sharp 
odor, but on drying they attain an odor which may be said 
to resemble that of the violet; but on comparing the two 
odors immediately, a considerable difference is perceptible 
even to the untrained olfactory sense. Orris root should be 
as fresh as possible; this may be recognized by its toughness, 
the great weight, and the white, not yellow color on fracture. 
It is very frequently used for sachets and for fixing other 
odors. 

Palm Oil. 

Latin—rOXemn Palmae; French —Huile de Palme; German — 

Palmol. 

Palm oil, a fixed oil derived from Elais guineensis, pos¬ 
sesses a peculiar odor faintly recalling that of violets which is 
easily extracted. Although not used thus far in perfumery, 
personal experiments have convinced the author that the odor 
can be employed in the manufacture of cheap perfumes. 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


43 


Patchouly. 

Latin —Pogostemon Patchouly; French —Patchouly; German 

—Patschulikraut. 

This herb, indigenous to the East Indies and China, in 
appearance somewhat resembling our garden sage, is used in 
the countries named as one of the most common perfumes; 
many East Indian and Chinese goods (such as Cashmere 
shawls, India ink, etc.) owe their peculiar odor to the pat¬ 
chouly herb which is very productive. In this respect it can be 
compared only with the nutmeg, but exceeds even this in in¬ 
tensity. This herb is not known very long in Europe, but at 
present it is imported in large quantities from India; in com¬ 
merce it occurs in small bundles consisting of stems and leaves 
(collected before flowering). 

Peru Balsam. 

Latin —Balsamum peruvianum; French —Beaume du Perou ; 

German —Perubalsam. 

This balsam, imported from Central America (San Sal¬ 
vador), is derived from Toluifera Pereirae; incisions are made 
in the bark and trunk of the tree, from which the balsam 
exudes. Peru balsam is of a syrupy consistence, thick and 
viscid, brownish-red in thin, blackish-brown in thick layers. 
Its taste is pungent, sharp, and bitter, afterward acrid; its 
odor is somewhat smoky, but agreeable and balsamic. Peru 
balsam is often sophisticated with fixed oil; this can be 
readily detected by agitation with alcohol, by which the oil 
is separated. But if castor oil is the adulterant, this test is 
not applicable, as castor oil dissolves with equal facility in 
alcohol. 


44 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Pine-apple. 

Latin —Bromelia Ananas; French —Ananas; German —Ananas. 

The fruits of this plant, originally derived from the East 
Indies, have a well-known narcotic odor which can be ex¬ 
tracted from them. 

In commerce we often meet with a chemical product 
called pine-apple ether which will be described at greater length 
under the head of chemical products used in perfumery. 
Pine-apple ether has an odor usually considered to be like that 
of the fruit, but when the two substances are immediately 
compared a great difference will be detected. Pine-apple ether 
finds quite extensive application in confectionery for the pre¬ 
paration of lemonades, punch, ices, etc. If the true pine-apple 
odor is to be prepared from the fruits, care must be had to 
use ripe fruits; the unripe or overripe fruits possess a less 
delicate aroma. 

Pink. 

Latin —Dianthus Caryophyllus; Fraich —CEillet; German — 

Nelkenbliithen. 

The odor of this favorite garden plant can be easily ex¬ 
tracted from the flowers by means of petroleum ether; but 
the genuine odor of pink is hardly ever met with in perfumery; 
the preparations sold under this name being usually artificial 
mixtures of other odors. 


Plumeria. 

Latin — Plumeria; French — Plumeria; German — Plumeria- 

bliithen. 

All the Plumerias, indigenous to the Antilles, contain very 
fragrant odors in their flowers. To the best of our knowledge, 
these odors have not yet been extracted from the flowers, and 
all the perfumes sold under this name (sometimes also called 
Frangipanni) are merely combinations of different odors. 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


45 


Reseda (Mignonette). 

Latin —Reseda odorata ; French —Mignonette; German — 

Reseda. 

This herbaceous plant, probably indigenous to northern 
Africa, but long domesticated in Europe and cultivated in 
gardens, is well known for its refreshing odor. The latter, 
however, is very difficult to extract and is yielded only to the 
method of absorption (enfleurage). The true odor of reseda, 
owing to the mode of its preparation, is very expensive, and 
for this reason nearly all perfumes sold under this name are 
produced from other aromatic substances. 

Rhodium. 

Latin —Lignum Rhodii; French —Bois de rose; German —- 

Rosenholz. 

This is derived from two climbing plants, Convolvulus sco- 
parius and Convolvulus floridus, indigenous to the Canary 
islands, and is the root wood of these plants. Its odor resem¬ 
bles that of the rose, and the wood is frequently used for cheap 
sachets and for the extraction of the contained essential oil 
which was formerly (before oil of rose geranium was made on 
the large scale) employed for the adulteration of genuine oil 
of rose. 


Rose. 

Latin —Rosa; French —Rose; German —Rosenbliithen. 

Horticulture has produced innumerable varieties from 
wild species of roses, which differ in size, form, color, as well 
as in odor. YVe instance here only the various odors exhaled 
by tea roses and moss roses. Accordingly, perfumers likewise 
distinguish different odors of roses. Cultivated on a large scale 
exclusively for the extraction of the essential oil, we find differ¬ 
ent varieties of roses in India, in European Turkey (Rosa 


46 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

Damascena), in Persia, and in Southern France. In this coun¬ 
try (U. S.), too, oil of roses could be manufactured with ad¬ 
vantage. 

The wild rose, sweet brier, French eglantine, possesses a 
delicate but very fugitive odor, and therefore the perfume 
sold as wild rose is usually prepared from other substances 
with the addition of oil of roses. The same remark applies to 
the odor called “white rose” and to those sold as “tea rose,” 
“ moss rose,” etc. 

Rosemary. 

Latin —Rosmarinus officinalis; French —Romarin ; German — 

Rosmarin. 

This plant, indigenous to Southern and Central Europe, 
contains pretty large quantities of an aromatic oil in its leaves 
and flowers; the oil has a refreshing odor and therefore is 
frequently added in small amounts to fine perfumes. 

Rue. 

Latin —Ruta graveolens; French —Rue; Germaji —Raute. 

This plant, cultivated in our gardens and also growing wild 
here, has long been employed for its strong odor; in per¬ 
fumery rue, in a dry state as well as its oil, is occasionally 
used. 

Sage. 

Latin —Salvia officinalis; French —Sauge; German —Salbei. 

All varieties of sage, the one named being found most fre¬ 
quently growing wild in the meadows of Southern Europe, 
and extensively cultivated in Europe and in this country, 
possess a very agreeable, refreshing odor which adheres for a 
long time even to the dried leaves; these are therefore very 
suitable for sachets, tooth powders, etc. 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


47 


Santal Wood. 

Latin —Santalum album; French —Santal; German —Santal- 

holz. 

The tree from which this wood is derived is indigenous to 
Eastern Asia, to the Sunda Islands. The wood is soft, very 
fragrant, and is also erroneously called sandal wood. The 
latter is of a dark reddish-brown color, not fragrant, and is 
derived from Pterocarpus santalinus, a tree indigenous to 
Southern India, and the Philippine Islands; it is of value to the 
dyer and the cabinet-maker, but to the perfumer only for col¬ 
oring some tinctures. For the purposes of perfumery use 
can be made only of santal wood (white or yellow santal 
wood) which possesses a very pleasant odor resembling that 
of oil of rose. Formerly essential oil of santal was employed 
for the adulteration of oil of rose. White and yellow santal 
wood comes from the same tree—the former from the smaller 
trunks of Santalum album. 

Sassafras 

Latin —Lignum Sassafras ; French —Sassafras; German —Sas- 

safrasholz. 

Sassafras wood, derived from the root of the American 
tree Sassafras officinalis, appears in commerce in large bun¬ 
dles. It has a strong peculiar odor; in the bark of the root 
the odor is even more marked. In the European drug trade 
Sassafras saw dust is also met with, but this is not rarely 
mixed with pine saw dust which has been moistened with 
fennel water and again dried. In perfumery sassafras wood 
is less used for the manufacture of volatile odors than for 
scenting soap. Since the principal constituent of oil of sassa¬ 
fras, viz., safrol, has been found to be contained in the crude 
oil of Japanese camphor, the latter has to a very large extent 
taken the place of the natural oil. 


48 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Spikenard. 

Latin —Nardostachys Jatamansi; French —Spic-nard ; German 

—Nardenkraut. 

This plant, belonging to the Order of Valerianaceae, which 
generally possess a strong and more or less unpleasant odor, 
forms one of the main objects of Oriental perfumery; in the 
East Indies, where the plant grows wild on the mountains, the 
odor is held about in the same estimation as that of roses, 
violets, etc., in Europe. Spikenard was probably known to 
the ancient Babylonians and Assyrians, for in the Bible, in the 
Song of Solomon, we find this plant repeatedly mentioned 
and praised for its pleasant odor. As the odor of spikenard 
is not appreciated in Europe, the plant is rarely met with in 
commerce. All parts of the plant are aromatic, but use is 
chiefly made of the root, consisting of fine fibres which are 
tied in bundles the thickness of a finger. 


Star-Anise. 

Latin —Illicium ; Semen Anisi stellati; French —Badiane ; Ger¬ 
man —Sternanis. 

Star-anise occurs in commerce in the form of eight-cham¬ 
bered capsules, each compartment containing one glossy seed, 
and is derived from a Chinese tree, Illicium anisatum. The 
fruits are brown, woody; the seed has a sweetish taste and an 
odor resembling that of anise. Outside of perfumery star- 
anise is used in the manufacture of liqueurs. Recently a drug 
has appeared in commerce under the name of star-anise which 
possesses poisonous qualities, and is derived from another 
variety of Illicium (Illicium religiosum). While this may be 
of no consequence to the perfumer, it is important to the 
manufacturer of liqueurs who always uses star-anise for fine 
goods and never oil of anise. 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


49 


Storax. 

Latin —Styrax; French —Styrax; German —Storax. 

This product which belongs among the balsams is derived 
from a small tree, Liquidambar orientalis, and is obtained 
from the bark by heating with water, and also by pressure. It 
forms a viscid mass like turpentine, has a gray color, a burning 
sharp taste, an agreeable odor, and is easily soluble in strong 
alcohol; but the odor becomes pleasant only after the solu¬ 
tion is highly diluted. Storax has the peculiar property of 
binding different, ve'ry delicate odors, to render them less 
fugitive, and for this reason finds frequent application in per¬ 
fumery. 

Oriental storax should not be confounded with American 
storax which occurs in commerce under the name of Sweet 
Gum, Gum Wax, or Liquidamber, and is derived from Liquid¬ 
ambar styraciflua. It is quite a thick transparent liquid, light 
yellow, gradually becoming more and more solid and darker 
colored, but is often used in place of the former, though its 
odor is less fine. 

Sumbul Root. 

Latin —Radix Sumbul; French —Soumboul; German —Mo- 

schuswurzel. 

The Sumbul plant (Ferula Sumbul), indigenous to Turke¬ 
stan and adjoining countries, has a light brown root covered 
with thin fibres, which has a penetrating odor of musk. Ow¬ 
ing to this quality it is frequently employed in perfumery, 
especially for sachets. In commerce a distinction is made 
between East Indian and Bokharian or Russian sumbul, due 
to the different routes by which the article arrives. The lat¬ 
ter, which possesses the strongest odor, probably because 
it reaches the market in a fresher state, is the most valu¬ 
able. 


4 


50 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Sweet Almonds. 

Latm —Amygdala dulcis; French —Amandes douces; German 

—Siisse Mandeln. 

The almond-tree, Amygdalus communis, occurs in two 
varieties, undistinguishable by botanical characteristics. One 
bears sweet, the other bitter fruits (comp. Bitter almonds, 
page 24). Both are odorless and contain much fixed oil. 
The special odor of bitter almonds forms only in consequence 
of the decomposition of a peculiar body (amygdalin), present 
in bitter almonds, when it comes in contact with water. Good 
almonds are full, juicy, light brown, without wrinkles, and 
have a sweet mild taste. A rancid taste characterizes stale¬ 
ness. The fixed or expressed oil, both that of the sweet and 
that of the bitter almonds (which are identical in taste, odor, 
and other properties), is used in perfumery for fine hair oils, 
ointments, and some fine soft soaps. 

Sweet-Flag Root. 

Latin —Radix Calami; French —Racine de gla'feule; German — 

Calmuswurzel. 

The calamus root met with in commerce is the creeping 
root-stock of a plant (Acorus Calamus), occurring in all coun¬ 
tries of the northern hemisphere, and frequent in European 
and American swamps. The root-stock is spongy, about as 
thick as a finger, many-jointed, and of a yellowish color, with 
many dark streaks and dots. Inside the color is reddish-white. 
The odor is strong and the taste sharp and burning. 


Sweet-Pea. 

Latin —Lathyrus tuberosus; French —Pois de senteur ; German 

—Platterbsenbliithen. 

Sweet-pea flowers, which have a very delicate odor, yield 
it to the usual solvents. The odor bears some resemblance 


\ 




PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 5 1 

to that of orange flowers, but is rarely used alone; it is gen¬ 
erally combined with others to make it more lasting. 

Syringa. 

Latin — Philadelphus coronanus; French —Seringat, Lilac; 

German —Pfeifenstrauchbliithen. 

The white flowers of this garden bush have a very pleasant 
odor which resembles that of orange flowers, in place of which 
it can be used, in the cheaper grades of perfumery. This 
plant which flourishes freely in our climate deserves more at¬ 
tention by perfumers than it has hitherto received, since it 
appears to furnish an excellent substitute for the expensive 
oil of orange flowers, as above stated, in cheap perfumes. 

Thyme. 

Lathi —Thymus Serpyllum ; French —Thym ; German —Thy- 

mian. 

This well-known aromatic plant, which grows most luxu¬ 
riantly on a calcareous soil, has an odor which is not unpleas¬ 
ant but is in greater demand for liqueurs than for perfumes. 
Here and there, however, it is employed for scenting soap. 
Common thyme, Thymus vulgaris, is used for the same pur¬ 
poses. 

Under the name of Oil of Thyme, in the English and 
American market, is generally understood the oil of Thymus 
vulgaris, which is largely distilled in the South of France. 
This oil is commonly misnamed Oil of Origanum. 

Tolu Balsam. 

Latin —Balsamum tolutanum ; French —Beaume de Tolu ; Ger¬ 
man —Tolubalsam. 

This balsam is derived from a tree indigenous to the north¬ 
ern portion of South America, Toluifera Balsamum, belonging 


52 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


to the Order of Leguminosae. The balsam, which is obtained 
by incisions into the bark of these trees, is at first fluid, but 
becomes firm in the air owing to rapid resinification; in com¬ 
merce it appears in a viscid form ranging from that of Venice 
turpentine to that of colophony. Its color varies from honey- 
yellow to reddish-brown ; the taste is at first sweet, then sharp ; 
it softens under the heat of the hand, and when warmed or 
sprinkled in powder form on glowing coals it diffuses a very 
pleasant odor recalling that of Peru balsam or vanilla. It 
shares with storax and Peru balsam the valuable property of 
fixing volatile odors and is often employed for this purpose, 
but is also frequently used alone in fumigating powders, tooth 
powders, etc. Adulteration of Tolu balsam with Venice tur¬ 
pentine or colophony is not rarely met with. 

Tonka Beans. 

Latin —Fabae Tonkae; »French —Feves de Tonka; German — 

Tonkabohnen, Tonkasamen. 

The South American tonka tree, Dipteryx odorata, bears 
almond-shaped drupes almost as long as the finger, which con¬ 
tain seeds two to four centimetres in length, the so-called 
tonka beans. These occur in European commerce in two 
sorts, the so-called Dutch and English tonka beans ; the former 
are large, full, covered externally with a folded brown to black 
skin, and white inside. The latter are barely two-thirds the 
size of the former, almost black, and less glossy. The odor 
of the tonka bean is due to a volatile crystalline substance, 
coumarin, which often lies on the surface and in the wrinkles 
of the bean in the form of delicate, brilliant crystalline needles. 
Coumarin exists also in many other plants, for instance, in 
sweet woodruff (Asperula odorata), deer-tongue (Liatris odora- 
tissima), etc. 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


53 


Tuberose. 

Latin —Polianthus tuberosa; French —Tuberose; German — 

Tuberose. 

This beautiful and very fragrant plant is frequently culti¬ 
vated in Southern France; its pleasant odor, however, owing 
to its great volatility, can never be used pure, but must always 
be fixed with one of the above-mentioned balsams. As has 
been stated in connection with several aromatic plants, tube¬ 
rose could be grown in our southern States with advantage 
for the extraction of its odor. ' 

Vanilla. 

Latin —Vanilla aromatica, Vanilla planifolia; French —Vanille; 

German —Vanille. 

The vanilla, which may justly be called a king among aro¬ 
matic plants, is a climbing orchid indigenous to tropical Amer¬ 
ica. It is cultivated on a most extensive scale on the islands 
of Reunion and Mauritius; largely also in Mexico, and in 
some other countries. The agreeable odor is present in the 
fruit. These form three-lobed capsules about the length of 
a lead pencil and the thickness of a quill. Externally they 
are glossy brown, have a fatty feel, and show in the depression 
a white powder which appears crystalline under a lens. In¬ 
ternally good fresh vanilla is so oily that it stains the fingers 
on being crushed and is filled with numerous shining seeds 
the size of a small pin’s head. These properties, together 
with the plump appearance and great weight, mark good qual¬ 
ities. Old vanilla, whose odor is fainter and less fragrant, 
may be recognized by its wrinkled surface, the absence of the 
white dust, the slight weight, and the bent ends of the cap¬ 
sules. Fraudulent dealers endeavor to give such old goods 
a fresher appearance by coating them with almond oil or Peru 


54 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


balsam. “ Vanilla de Leg ” is recognized as the first quality 
of Mexican vanilla. Like most odors, that of vanilla does not 
become pleasant until it is sufficiently diluted. 

Verbena. 

Latin —Verbena triphylla, Aloysia citriodora; French —Ver- 

veine ; German —Verbenakraut. 

The leaves of this Peruvian plant, especially on being 
rubbed between the fingers, exhale a very pleasant odor which 
is due to an essential oil. The odor resembles that of fine 
citrons, or rather that of lemon grass; hence these two odors 
are frequently mistaken for each other. Owing to the high 
price of true oil of verbena, all the perfumes sold under this 
name are prepared from oil of lemon grass (see under Citro- 
nella) and other essential oils. 

Vetiver. 

Latin —Andropogon muricatus ; FrencJi —Vetyver; German — 

Vetiverwurzel. 

Vetiver, also called cuscus, and sometimes iwarankusa 
(though this is more properly the name of Andropogon lanifer; 
see above, under Citronella), is the fibrous root-stock of a 
grass indigenous to India, where fragrant mats are woven 
from it. The odor of the root somewhat resembles that of 
santal wood, and is used partly alone, partly for fixing vola¬ 
tile perfumes. Shavings of the root are frequently employed 
for filling sachet bags. 

Violet. 

Latin —Viola odorata; French —Violette; German —Veilchen- 

bltithen. 

The wonderful fragrance of the March violet is due to an 
essential oil which it is, however, difficult to extract. For 
this reason genuine perfume of violets, really prepared from 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


55 


the flowers, is among the most expensive odors, and the high- 
priced so-called violet perfumes are generally mixtures of 
other fine odors, while the cheaper grades are made from orris 
root. 

V OLKAMERI A. 

This plant, Volkameria inermis, often cultivated in con¬ 
servatories, has a very agreeable odor. The perfume called 
by this name, however, is not obtained from the plant, but is 
produced by the mixture of several aromatic extracts from 
other plants. 

Wallflower. 

Latin —Cheiranthus Cheiri; FrencJi —Girofle; German —Levko- 

jenbliithen, Goldlack. 

The wallflower, a well-known biennial garden plant belong¬ 
ing to the Order of Cruciferae, according to recent experiments 
yields a very fine odor to certain substances and may be em¬ 
ployed in the manufacture of quite superior perfumes. The 
preparations usually sold as wallflower, however, are not made 
from the flowers of this plant, but are mixtures of different 
odors. 


WlNTERGREEN. 

Latin —Gaultheria procumbens; French —Gaultherie; German 

—Wintergriinblatter. 

This herbaceous plant, indigenous to North America, es¬ 
pecially Canada and the Northern and Middle United States, 
where it grows wild in large quantities, has a very pleasant 
odor due to an essential oil and a compound ether which can 
also be produced artificially. The odor of wintergreen serves 
chiefly for scenting fine soaps. 


56 


PERFUMFS AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Ylang-Ylang. 

— « 

This plant, Unona odoratissima, indigenous to the Philip¬ 
pine Islands, contains an exceedingly fragrant oil. It is 
brought into commerce from Manilla. 

Owing to climatic relations, it is impossible for the per¬ 
fumer to procure all the above-enumerated substances in the 
fresh state; many of them he is forced to purchase through 
the drug trade, and he should bear in mind to give the pref¬ 
erence always to the freshest obtainable goods. At times it 
is not possible to utilize the materials at once for the extrac¬ 
tion of the odors and they must be kept for some time. The 
vegetable substances should always be stored in an airy, not 
over dry room; and the material should be often inspected. 
If a trace of mouldiness shows itself, the material must be 
worked at once, since, if the mould is allowed to go on, the 
fragrance will suffer and may be destroyed altogether. 

The aromatic substances here enumerated are those which 
have actually found general employment in perfumery; but 
the list is not complete, since every aromatic plant can be used 
for the extraction of its odor. Of course, this is connected 
with some difficulties, but even in the present state of our 
knowledge they can all be overcome. When a new odor has 
been prepared, the art of the perfumer consists in ascertaining 
by many experiments those substances which harmonize with 
it; for with few exceptions the finest grades of perfumes are not 
single odors but combinations of several which are in accord. 

Even among our domestic plants there are numerous finds 
to be made by the perfumer, and in this respect we refer par¬ 
ticularly to some very fragrant kinds of orchids in our woods 
and to the delightful odor of the lily of the valley. As to the 
latter, a perfume is met with in commerce under this name, 
but its odor bears no resemblance to that of the flower. 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


57 


A few facts appear to us of especial importance. In prac¬ 
tical perfumery many of the plants which are easily obtaina¬ 
ble in large quantities, such as the flowers of clover and trefoil, 
the primrose, the rock-rose (Daphne Cneorum), dame’s-violet 
(Hesperis matronalis), and others above named, have never 
been employed. As an actual curiosity we may state that 
there is thus far no perfume containing the delightful odor 
present in the flowers of the linden-tree, of the Robinia (erro¬ 
neously called Acacia), of the lilac, etc., at least not made 
from the plants here named. 


CHAPTER V. 

THE ANIMAL SUBSTANCES USED IN PER¬ 
FUMERY. 

While the vegetable kingdom offers us an abundance of 
aromatic odors the end of which it is impossible to foresee, 
the animal kingdom contains absolutely no substance which 
may be called sweet-scented in the strict sense of the term. 
If we find nevertheless a few animal substances generally used 
in perfumery, they should be considered rather as excellent 
means for fixing subtle vegetable odors than as fragrant bodies 
in the true sense. By themselves, indeed, they have an odor, 
but to most persons it is not agreeable even if properly diluted. 
Thus far only five substances of animal origin are employed 
in perfumery, namely: ambergris, castor, hyraceum, musk, and 
civet. 

Ambergris. 

Latin —Ambragrisea; French —Ambregris ; German —Ambra. 

This is. a substance whose origin is still doubtful; many 
facts indicate that it is a secretion—whether normal or mor¬ 
bid may be left undecided—of the largest living mammal, 



58 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

namely, of the pot-whale (Physeter macrocephalus). Am¬ 
bergris is found in the intestines of this animal or, more fre¬ 
quently, floating about in the sea; the shores of the continents 
bordering the Indian Ocean furnish the largest amount of this 
peculiar substance. 

Ambergris is a grayish-white fatty substance which occurs 
in commerce in pieces of various sizes—those as large as a fist 
are rare—of a penetrating, decidedly disagreeable odor. It 
is soluble in alcohol, and when properly diluted the odor be¬ 
comes pleasant and it is so permanent that a piece of linen 
moistened with it smells of it even after being washed with 
soap. By itself, ambergris is not much used; it finds its chief 
application in combination with other odors or as an addition 
to some perfumes in order to make them lasting. 

Castor. 

Latin —Castoreum; French —Castoreum ; German —Castoreum. 

This is a secretion of the beaver (Castor fiber); it accumu¬ 
lates in two pear-shaped bags on the abdomen of the animal, 
both male and female. The hunters remove these bags from 
the body of the dead animal and in this form they are brought 
into commerce. These sacs are the length of a finger, at the 
thickest point the diameter of a thumb, and contain a greasy 
mass of yellowish-brown, reddish-brown, or blackish color, 
according to the nourishment of the animal. This mass con¬ 
stitutes castor; it has a strong, disagreeable odor, a bitter, 
balsamic taste, becomes soft when heated, is combustible, and 
almost entirely soluble in alcohol. It is probable that this 
secretion in its composition has some relation to the nourish¬ 
ment of the beavers which feed by preference on resinous 
vegetable substances. In commerce Canadian and Siberian 
castor are distinguished; the latter is more valuable and has 
almost disappeared from the market. It possesses a peculiar 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


59 


tarry, Russian-leather odor, probably due to a substance 
present in birch bark, upon which the Siberian animals feed 
almost exclusively. Canadian castor has an odor more nearly 
resembling pine resin. In perfumery castor is rarely used, 
usually only for fixing other odors. 


Hyraceum. 

The substance occurring in commerce under this name, the 
excrement of an animal found in Capeland, the rock badger 
or rock rabbit (Hyrax capensis), is very similar in its pro¬ 
perties to castor, and according to comparative experiments 
made by us can be used in place of the latter. 

Musk. 

Latin —Moschus; French —Muse; German —Moschus. 

Of animal substances, musk is most frequently used in 
perfumery, and possesses the most agreeable odor of them 
all. Moreover, the odor of musk is the most intense that we 
know, actually imponderable quantities of it being sufficient 
to impart to a large body of air the strong odor of musk. 
This substance is derived from a deer which attains the size 
of a small goat and, like the chamois of the Alps, lives on the 
highest mountains of the Himalayas. Only the male animal 
(Moschus moschiferus) produces musk, which is secreted in a 
sac or rather gland near the sexual organ. Musk being sub¬ 
ject to the worst adulterations owing to its high price, we 
append a description of the substance as well as of the sac 
or bag in which it appears in commerce. 

The musk bag cut by the hunter from the body of the 
animal has the size and shape of half a walnut. On the side 
by which it was attached to the body of the animal it is mem¬ 
branous and nearly smooth; on the external surface it is 
more or less hemispherical and covered with light brown or 
dark brown hair, according to the season at which the animal 


r 


60 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

was killed. The hair assumes a circular arrangement around 
an opening situated in the centre of the bag. This opening, the 
efferent duct of the gland, is formed by a ring-shaped muscle 
which yields to the pressure of a pointed object and permits 
the introduction of the point of the finger. Internally the musk 
bag consists of several layers of membrane which surround 
the musk itself. It is probable that the musk is secreted by 
these membranes, for when the animal is dissected, no direct 
communication of the musk gland with the body can be de¬ 
tected. 

It has been surmised that the secretion of musk bears 
some relation to the food; at least it has been asserted that 
the animals eat, among other things, sumbul root with great 
avidity; and this root, it will be remembered, has a very in¬ 
tense odor of musk. However, though this appears probable 
at first sight, it is contradicted by the fact that the females 
and the young males likewise eat the root without manifest¬ 
ing any odor of musk nor do they secrete the substance, while 
the older males produce it even when they are fed with hay 
only. Another fact is of interest, namely, that other rumi¬ 
nants, too, for instance, cattle, diffuse a marked though faint 
odor of musk which occurs also in their excrements, exactly 
as in the case of the musk deer. Alligators likewise produce 
a musk-like substance which has actually been made use of in 
place of musk for coarser purposes. 

The musk present in the glands differs in appearance with 
the season and the age of the animal. Musk deers killed in 
spring have in their musk bag an unctuous soft mass of a red¬ 
dish-brown color with the strongest odor; at other seasons the 
mass is darker in color, almost black, and granular; the size 
of the grains ranges from that of a millet-seed to that of a 
large pea. 

That the secretion of musk belongs to the sexual functions 
appears probable from the fact that it can be found only in 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


61 


the bags of males more than two years old; that of younger 
animals contains only a substance of a milky consistence, 
whose odor has no resemblance to that of musk. The quan- 

s 

tity of musk present in a bag varies with the season and the 
age of the animal; the smallest quantity may be assumed at 
about six drachms, though some bags contain as much as one 
and a half ounces. 

The hunters dry the bags either on hot stones or in the 
air, or they dip them into hot oil. In commerce musk occurs 
either in bags under the name moschus in vesicis, “ musk in 
pods,” or free, moschus in granis, moschus ex vesicis, “grain 
musk.” According to its origin four sorts are distinguished: 
Chinese or Tonquin musk, Siberian or Russian musk, Assam 
or Bengal musk, and finally Bokharian musk. The latter two 
varieties, however, rarely reach this market. Chinese musk 
(Tonquin or Thibet musk) occurs in small boxes containing 
twenty to thirty bags, each wrapped in Chinese tissue paper, 
on which Chinese characters are printed. This is considered 
the best quality. Assam musk occurs in boxes lined with 
tin which contain as many as two hundred or more bags; its 
value is about two-thirds that of the former. Russian musk is 
packed in various ways and is worth about one-fourth that of 
the Chinese ; a special variety of it, of a weaker and rather urin¬ 
ous odor, is known as Cabardine musk; of least value is Bokha¬ 
rian musk which is of a grayish black color, with a faint odor. 

Musk is adulterated in an almost incredible manner; at 
times so-called musk bags are met with which are artificially 
constructed of animal membranes and filled with dried blood, 
earth, etc., and slightly scented with genuine musk. But 
even the genuine musk bags are often tampered with; musk 
being removed from the opening and the space filled with 
earth, dried blood, animal excrement, or perhaps pieces of 
copper and lead. 

Pure musk reacts quite characteristically toward caustic 


62 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


alkalies such as caustic potash and soda or solution of am¬ 
monia, and these substances are used for testing the purity of 
musk. If a dilute alkaline solution is poured over musk, a 
marked increase of the odor is observed after a short time; if 
the alkaline solution is concentrated or hot, the odor of musk 
disappears completely and the fluid develops the caustic odor 
of pure ammonia. Hot water dissolves about eighty per cent 
of the total weight of musk; strong alcohol dissolves about 
one-tenth of it; when heated in an open porcelain capsule, 
musk burns with a disgusting empyreumatic odor and leaves 
a considerable amount of ash, about one-tenth of its weight. 
Besides the above-named substances which destroy the musk 
odor by the decomposition of the aromatic constituent, there 
are other bodies, whose action we do not know at present, 
which have the peculiar property of completely extinguishing 
this most penetrating of all odors: to deodorize a vessel com¬ 
pletely which has contained musk, it is sufficient to rub in it 
some bitter almonds moistened with water or some camphor 
with alcohol. 

In an extremely dilute condition musk is used for perfum¬ 
ing the finest soaps and sachets, and even in the manufacture 
of the most expensive and best perfumes, owing to its prop¬ 
erty of imparting permanence to very volatile odors. In the 
last-mentioned class, however, the quantity of musk must al¬ 
ways be so small that its presence is not distinctly observed, 
since many persons find the pure odor of musk very disagree¬ 
able, while they praise the fragrance of such perfumes as 
contain an amount of this substance too small to be perceived 
by the olfactory nerves. 

Civet. 

Latm —Civetta; French —Civette; German —Zibeth. 

4 

This substance bears some resemblance to musk with 
reference to its derivation and the role it plays in the life of 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


63 


the animal from which it is obtained. The Viverridae, a class 
of carnivora related to the cats and weasels, found in Asia 
and Africa, furnish this substance. It is obtained chiefly 
from the civet cat (Viverra Civetta) and the musk rat (Viverra 
Zibetha) which are kept in captivity for the purpose of ab¬ 
stracting from them from time to time the civet which is 
always formed anew. 

Civet is the secretion of a double gland present both in 
the male and the female near the sexual organs. Fresh civet 
is a whitish-yellow mass of the consistence of butter or fat, 
and becomes thicker and darker on exposure to the air. 
Similar to musk, it has a strong odor which becomes pleasant 
on being diluted and is used both alone and for fixing other 
odors. 


CHAPTER VI. 

THE CHEMICAL PRODUCTS USED IN PER¬ 
FUMERY. 

In the manufacture of perfumery a considerable number 
of chemical products find application; in this place, however, 
we shall describe only those which are used very frequently 
and generally, and discuss the characteristics of those em¬ 
ployed more rarely in connection with the articles of perfu¬ 
mery into which they enter. According to their application 
we may divide these substances into several groups, namely: 

A. Chemicals which, without themselves serving as per¬ 
fumes, are used exclusively for the extraction of odors. 

B. Chemicals which, while not fragrant, are frequently 
employed in the preparation of perfumes. Under this head 
we have included also those substances which are not strictly 
chemical products, but originally come from the animal or 



64 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

vegetable kingdom, such as fats, spermaceti, and wax, yet can¬ 
not be used in perfumery unless they have undergone a pro¬ 
cess of chemical purification. 

C. Chemical products used for coloring perfumes, so-called 
dye-stuffs. 

The greater portion of the substances to be here described 
it will hardly be the province of the perfumer to prepare 
himself, as they are furnished by chemical factories at low 
prices; but some of them—for instance, sublimed, natural 
benzoic acid suitable for perfumery and a few other sub¬ 
stances—the perfumer should make himself, in order to be 
sure of its genuineness. Therefore, while in the former class it 
will be sufficient to describe their properties to enable the 
manufacturer to distinguish good quality from bad, the latter 
class must be discussed at greater length. 

> 

A. Chemicals used for the Extraction of Aromatic 

Substances. 

For the extraction of aromatic substances from plants a 
number of bodies are used which possess great solvent power 
for essential oils, and are besides very volatile, or have a low 
boiling-point. These are particularly ether, chloroform, pe¬ 
troleum ether, and bisulphide of carbon. 

Ether. 

This liquid, in commerce also called sulphuric ether, is 
made in large quantities in chemical laboratories by the dis¬ 
tillation of alcohol with sulphuric acid, followed by a second 
distillation or rectification. When pure, ether forms a mo¬ 
bile, thin, strong-smelling, and inflammable liquid which when 
inhaled produces insensibility, for which reason it is used as 
an anaesthetic in surgery. Its specific gravity is about 0.720 
when anhydrous, and its boiling-point 35 0 C. (95 0 F.). It 
forms an excellent solvent for essential oils, resins, fats, and 




PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 65 

similar bodies. Owing to its great volatility, its vapors are 
quickly diffused in the air, and, as they are very inflammable, 
lights must be kept away from a bottle containing this sub¬ 
stance. The same remark applies to most of the substances 
to be presently described. 

Chloroform 

is prepared by the distillation of chlorinated lime, alcohol, and 
water, acetone being more recently substituted for the alcohol, 
followed by rectification of the product. When inhaled it 
produces insensibility like ether. It has a pleasant odor and 
sweet taste. Its specific gravity is about 1.49 and its boiling- 
point 6i° C. (142 0 F.). Owing to its great solvent power and 
low boiling-point, chloroform is largely used for the extrac¬ 
tion of aromatic vegetable substances; it does not take fire 
directly in the air. 

Petroleum Ether. 

Petroleum, which is brought into commerce in immense 
quantities, especially from Pennsylvania, for illuminating pur¬ 
poses, cannot be used in its crude state, but requires rectifica¬ 
tion. Petroleum as it issues from the earth consists of various 
hydrocarbons mixed together, some of which have very low 
boiling-points, so that their vapors readily take fire and would 
make the use of petroleum in lamps dangerous. Petroleum, 
therefore, is heated in large apparatuses to about 70 or 8o° 
C. (158 to 176° F.), when the more volatile products** pass 
over, and the petroleum for illuminating purposes remains in 
the stills. A certain fraction of the volatile distillate, the 
so-called petroleum ether, is largely used in the manufacture 
of varnishes. Owing to its great solvent power for aromatic 
vegetable substances and its low price, petroleum ether has 
become quite an important body for the extraction of per¬ 
fumes, which will be further discussed hereafter. Good pe- 
5 


66 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


troleum ether is colorless, has a peculiar, not unpleasant odor, 
and a boiling-point between 50 and 55 0 C. (if2° and 131° F.). 

Benzin 

is a common name for another fraction of the volatile distil¬ 
late from petroleum, viz., that which boils between 50° and 
6o° C. (122 0 to 140° F.) and has a spec. grav. of 0.670 to 0.675°. 

This liquid, which is also used as a volatile solvent for the 
extraction of odorous substances, must not be confounded 
with Benzene or Benzol, a distillate from coal tar, boiling at 
about 8o° C. (176° F.) and having a spec. grav. of 0.878. The 
latter is not used for the extraction of perfumes. 

Bisulphide of Carbon. 

This is made by conducting vapors of sulphur over glow¬ 
ing charcoal or coke. The vapors of bisulphide of carbon thus 
formed are led into vessels filled with ice or ice-cold water, 
where they condense. Bisulphide of carbon is a colorless 
liquid, heavier than water and very refractive. It is inflam¬ 
mable, and possesses a peculiar odor which is not disagreeable 
if the liquid has been thoroughly purified. Its boiling-point 
is about 45° C. (113 0 F.) and it has great solvent power. At 
the present time, the market affords bisulphide of carbon of a 
high degree of purity. 

Some manufacturers who prepare their odors by extraction, 
may find it advantageous to make also the bisulphide of car¬ 
bon necessary for it, and this is best done in Gerard’s apparatus 
(Fig. 1). It consists of a cast-iron cylinder a, two metres high 
and one metre in diameter. This cylinder is heated on the 
outer surface in an oven, and two tubes, c and d, are attached 
to it. Tube d is connected by e with the hemispherical vessel 
b which is connected by the tube i with the condenser mlk. 
The condenser is formed of three cylinders made of sheet 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 67 

zinc which are surrounded with cold water. The condensed 
liquid escapes into the vessel p, while the gaseous products 
pass through n into the chimney. The cylinder a is filled 
with about 1,500 pounds of charcoal or coke in small pieces, 
after which it is closed and all tubes are carefully luted with 
clay; a is then heated to a strong red heat and at intervals 
of three minutes 3 pounds of sulphur are thrown in through o' 
In twenty-four hours, by the use of 478 pounds of sulphur, 
568 pounds of. crude bisulphide of carbon are obtained; a 



Fig. i. 


portion of the sulphur distils over uncombined into the ves¬ 
sel b. 

The crude bisulphide of carbon contains about twelve per 
cent of sulphur and other combinations in solution and is 
redistilled at exactly 48° C. (118.4° F.) in a steam-heated ap¬ 
paratus with a long exit tube cooled with ice below and water 
above. In order to obtain the bisulphide of carbon abso¬ 
lutely pure, which is essential to render it suitable for extrac¬ 
tion, it is again distilled at the same temperature, with the ad¬ 
dition of two per cent of palm oil. As the vapors of bisul¬ 
phide of carbon are injurious to the organism, the vessels con¬ 
taining it must always be kept well closed. 



























68 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


B. Chemical Products used for the Preparation of 

Perfumes. 

Among all the substances belonging under this head, there 
is one which plays a prominent part in the manufacture of 
most perfumes. In handkerchief perfumes it is one of the 
most important substances, as it forms not only the greatest 
bulk, but the perfection of the perfume depends upon its 
quality. This substance is— 

Alcohol, 

also called spirit of wine; French, esprit de vin; the well- 
known combustible liquid formed by the alcoholic fermenta¬ 
tion of sugar, which is made on a large scale in extensive dis¬ 
tilleries. Alcohol is a thin, mobile liquid with an aromatic 
odor. The usual “ strong ” alcohol of the market contains 
about ninety-four per cent of absolute alcohol by volume. 
This has a specific gravity of 0.820. Its boiling-point is 78.2° 
C. (172.4 0 F.), and it congeals at a very low temperature, be¬ 
low — ioo° C. Alcohol possesses great solvent power for 
resins, balsams, and essential oils. 

These properties, however, belong only to the commercial 
stronger or so-called “ druggists’ alcohol," and more particu¬ 
larly to a very pure quality of it, as free as possible from fusel- 
oil compounds, known as cologne spirit. As absolute alcohol 
is also necessary for the purposes of perfumery, we shall briefly 
describe its preparation. 

In order to make absolute alcohol, sulphate of copper is 
heated in a retort until it has changed into a white powder. 
After the powder has cooled in the covered retort, it is at 
once introduced into a large glass bottle; over it is poured 
the strongest obtainable alcohol (96$ Tralles) which must be 
free from fusel oil; then the bottle is closed air-tight and re- 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 69 

peatedly shaken. The sulphate of copper which has lost its 
water of crystallization by the heat reabsorbs it from the al¬ 
cohol and again becomes blue and crystalline. Generally four 
pounds of sulphate of copper are used for ten quarts of alco¬ 
hol; when white burnt sulphate of copper after long contact 
with alcohol still remains white, the alcohol is proved to be 
practically anhydrous (it may still contain about two per cent 
of water). 

Larger quantities of absolute alcohol are made in a cop¬ 
per still containing fused anhydrous chloride of calcium in 
small pieces. The apparatus is closed and alcohol of 94 to 
95 io is poured in through a tubulure. The mixture often 
grows so warm that the alcohol begins to pass over, so that but 
little heat need be applied to make the absolute alcohol distil 
over. 

Absolute alcohol obtained in this way—for by repeated dis¬ 
tillation we get at most an alcohol of 96^—abstracts water 
from the air with avidity; hence it must be preserved in air¬ 
tight vessels which should contain a small 
amount of anhydrous sulphate of copper. 

Strong commercial alcohol contains vary¬ 
ing amounts of water—’from four to twenty 
parts by volume (96 to 80$ alcohol); at the 
present time, however, it is always customary 
for dealers in this country to supply the 
officinal alcohol of 94$, when “ strong alco¬ 
hol ” is called for. Its strength is measured 
by an areometer which sinks in proportion to 
the purity of the alcohol; the alcoholometer 
of Tralles or volumeter shows at once on its 
scale how many parts by volume of absolute 
alcohol (volume per cent) are contained in 100 
volumes of alcohol. The adjoining figure (Fig. 2) shows 
Tralles’ alcoholometer, with the vessel in which the test is 


n 



Fig. 2. 


















































;o 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


made. The readings of the instrument, however, are correct 
only at a temperature of 15.6° C. (6o° F.), the so-called nor¬ 
mal temperature; at a higher or lower point they must be 
corrected according to the tables appended. 

At temperatures below the normal, the amount of alcohol is 
greater than the areometer indicates, hence a percentage 
must be added ; at higher temperatures a percentage must be 
deducted. 


Tables for Finding the True Percentage by Volume, at 
the Normal Temperature of 6o° F., of Alcohol of Any 
Strength, when Tested at Temperatures Below or 
Above 6o° F. 

Table I.—For Temperatures Under 6 o° F. 


Per cent 
of 

Alcohol 

by 

Volume. 

Number 
of F. Degrees 
Requiring 
Addition of 
one ;o 
Percentage. 

Per cent 
of 

Alcohol 

by 

Volume. 

Number 
of F. Degrees 
Requiring 
Addition of 
one to 
Percentage. 

Per cent 
of 

Alcohol 

by 

Volume 

Number 
of F. Degrees 
Requiring 
Addition of 
one to 
Percentage. 

Per cent 
of 

Alcohol 

by 

Volume. 

Number 
of F. Degrees 

1 equiring 
Addition of 
one to 
Percentage. 

21 

5-4 

41 

4-725 

60 

5-4 

79 

6.3 

22 

5-175 

42 

4-725 

6 l 

5-4 

80 

6-3 

23 

4-725 

43 

4.725 

62 

5-4 

81 

6.525 

24 

4-5 

44 

4-725 

63 

5.625 

82 

6.525 

25 

4-5 

45 

4-95 

64 

5-625 

83 

6-75 

26 

4-5 

46 

4-95 

65 

5.625 

84 

6-75 

27 

4- 5 

47 

4-95 

66 

5.625 

85 

6-75 

28 

4-275 

48 

4-95 

67 

5.625 

86 

6-75 

29 

4-275 

49 

4-95 

68 

5-85 

87 

6-975 

30 

4- 27 ^ 

50 

5-175 

69 

5.85 

88 

7.2 

31 

4-275 

5i 

5.175 

70 

5.85 

89 

7.425 

32 

4-275 

52 

5-175 

7i 

5.85 

90 

7.65 

33 

4-275 

53 

5-175 

72 

5.85 

9i 

7.875 

34 

4.275 

54 

5-175 

73 

5.85 

92 

8.1 

35 

4-5 

55 

5-175 

74 

6.075 

93 

8.325 

36 

4-5 

56 

5-175 

75 

6.075 

94 

8-775 

37 

4-.5 

57 

5-4 

76 

6.075 

95 

9- 

38 

4-5 

58 

5-4 

77 

6.075 

96 

9-45 

39 

4-5 

59 

5-4 

78 

6-3 

97 

10.125 

40 

4-5 








Explanation.— Supposing an alcohol should be found to contain 40 per cent of 
absolute alcohol by Tralles’ alcoholometer at 45 0 F. The difference between 45 
and 6o° F. is 15 . Opposite to 40 will be found the figure 4.5. For every 4.5 de¬ 
grees F. below 6o° there must be added 1 to the alcoholic percentage. Hence 
for 15 degrees there must be added 3.3 degrees. The alcoholic percentage, by 
volume, therefore, is 43.3 per cent. 































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


7 1 


Table II.—For Temperatures Above 6o° F. 


Per cent 
of 

Alcohol 

by 

Volume. 

Number 
of F. Degrees 
Requiring 
Subtraction 
of one from 
Percentage. 

Per cent 
of 

Alcohol 

by 

Volume. 

N umber 
of F. Degrees 
Requiring 
Subtraction 
of one from 
Percentage. 

Per cent 
of 

Alcohol 

by 

Volume. 

Number 
of F. Degrees 
Requiring 
Subtraction 
of one from 
Percentage. 

Percent 

of 

Alcohol 

by 

Volume. 

Number 
of F. Degrees 
Requiring 
Subtraction 
of one from 
Percentage. 

21 

5.85 

41 

4-5 

6 l 

5-175 

8 l 

6.075 

22 

5-625 

42 

4-5 

02 

5-175 

82 

6.075 

23 

5-4 

43 

4-5 

63 

5-175 

83 

6-3 

24 

5-175 

44 

4-5 

64 

5-175 

84 

6-3 

25 

4-95 

45 

4-5 

65 

5-175 

85 

6-3 

26 

4-95 

46 

4-5 

66 

5-4 

86 

6.525 

27 

4-725 

47 

4-725 

67 

5-4 

87 

6.525 

28 

4-725 

48 

4.725 

68 

5-4 

88 

6.525 

29 

4-5 

49 

4-725 

69 

5-625 

89 

6-75 

30 

4-5 

50 

4 725 

70 

5.625 

90 

6-975 

31 

4-5 

5i 

4.725 

7i 

5.625 

9i 

6-975 

32 

4-5 

52 

4.725 

72 

5.625 

92 

7425 

33 

4-5 

53 

4-95 

73 

5-625 

93 

7-425 

34 

4-5 

44 

4-95 

74 

5-625 

94 

7-65 

35 

4-5 

55 

4-95 

75 

5.85 

95 

7-65 

36 

4-5 

56 

5-175 

76 

5.85 

96 

8.1 

37 

4-5 

57 

5-175 

77 

5.85 

97 

8.1 

38 

4-5 

58 

5-175 

78 

5.85 

98 

8.325 

39 

4-5 

59 

5-175 

79 

6.075 

99 

9-45 

40 

4-5 

60 

5-175 

80 

6.075 

100 

9.9 


Explanation. —In this case, the same calculation is performed as directed 
under Table I., except that the correction is to be deducted instead of added. 

Aside from the water present in it, commercial alcohol is 
never pure, but always contains small quantities, at times 
mere traces, of substances having a peculiar, sometimes 
pleasant, sometimes disagreeable, but invariably intense odor, 
which are known as fusel oils. The variety of fusel oil differs 
with the raw material from which the alcohol was made; 
there is a potato fusel oil (chemically amyl alcohol), a corn 
fusel oil, a beet fusel oil, wine fusel oil (cenanthic ether), etc. 
Fusel oils, being themselves odorous substances, exert an in¬ 
fluence on the fragrance of the perfume; hence it is a general 
rule in perfumery to use only alcohol free from fusel oil; 
that is, such from which the fusel oil has been extracted 
as far as possible by means of fresh charcoal. So-called 
“ Cologne Spirit ” of the best quality is, as a rule, practically 
free from it. 


























72 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Strange to say, some essential oils or aromatic substances 
in general, develop their finest odors only when the perfumes 
are prepared with an alcohol from a certain source. While 
the charcoal treatment removes almost all the fusel oil, the 
remaining traces suffice to act as odorous substances in the 
true sense of the term and to produce with other aromatic 
bodies a harmony of the odor which can never be reached by 
the use of another variety of alcohol. To give but a single 
instance we may state that all the citron odors known in 
perfumery develop the finest aroma only when dissolved in 
alcohol made from wine and the solution is then distilled. 
The world-renowned eau de Cologne is made in this way; the 
other aromatic substances contained in it are added to the 
distillate from the spirit of wine and the citron oils; any cologne 
made in another manner or with another alcohol has a less 
fine odor. While the citron odors require true spirit of wine 
for the development of their full aroma, other scents require 
beet or corn alcohol to bring out their best odor. Jasmine, 
tuberose, orange flowers, violet, etc., and all animal odors 
(ambergris, musk, and civet) belong to the latter class. For 
this remarkable and to the perfumer most important fact we 
know no other explanation than that traces of fusel oils pres¬ 
ent even in rectified alcohol take part in the general impres¬ 
sion made on the olfactory nerves, acting as true aromatic 
substances. 

Cologne spirit is expensive, but this should not be a reason 
for accepting a cheaper grade, with which it would be abso¬ 
lutely impossible to make really fine perfumes. 

Alcohol is also generally used for the direct extraction of 
odorous substances from plants, as will be seen in the descrip¬ 
tion of the processes employed in the preparation of the so- 
called essences or extracts. For these purposes, too, the best 
cologne spirit only should be used, that is, alcohol which has 
been freed from fusel oil and redistilled, for in no other way 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


73 

can the aromatic substances be obtained in the greatest pos¬ 
sible purity. And this is indispensable for the preparation of 
really fine perfumes, for we do not hesitate to say that 
French and English perfumes have acquired their deserved 
reputation mainly through the great care exercised in the se¬ 
lection of their raw materials, and especially of the alcohol 
used for extraction. 


Alloxan. 

This preparation, which is used in making a fine skin cos¬ 
metic, is manufactured in chemical laboratories from uric acid 
heated with nitric acid. Alloxan is a crystalline colorless 
body which has the property of gradually producing a red 
tint on the skin and finds employment for this reason. 

Ammonia. 

Ammonia is a gas formed by the decomposition of ni¬ 
trogenous substances, but chiefly obtained, on a large scale, 
from the so-called “gas liquor” of gas works. By itself it 
develops a very disagreeable odor and stimulates the lach¬ 
rymal glands to secretion—a fact which can be verified in 
any stable. A solution of the gas (water of ammonia; liquor 
ammoniae) possesses the same properties. In perfumery am¬ 
monia is never used alone, but only in combination with 
other odors, namely, in the manufacture of smelling salts 
(French: sels volatils; German: Riechsalze), which are much 
in favor in England and in this country. For the purposes 
of the perfumer, the greater part of the commercial ammonia 
is unsuitable owing to its tarry odor. Pure ammonia is best 
prepared by heating equal parts of quicklime and powdered 
sal-ammoniac in a retort, and conducting the generated gas 
into water which dissolves it with avidity, one quart of water 
dissolving more than seven hundred quarts of ammonia gas. 


7 4 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Carbonate of Ammonia, 

a combination of ammonia with carbonic acid, occurs in com- 
merce in large transparent lumps, often covered with a white 
dust of bicarbonate of ammonia, which in the air continually 
develop ammonia and therefore always smell of it. This com¬ 
mercial product is, as a rule, sufficiently pure to be used in 
perfumery; as to its application the same remarks apply as 
were made under the head of ammonia. 

Oil of Bitter Almonds (Oleum Amygdala amar^:). 

This is made from bitter almonds, previously deprived of 
fatty oil by pressure, which are mixed with an equal weight of 
water and set in-a warm place. The amygdalin undergoes de¬ 
composition into sugar, hydrogen cyanide, and benzoyl hy¬ 
dride or oil of bitter almonds. After one or two days the mass 
is distilled; the distillate being a colorless liquid, containing, 

besides oil of bitter almonds, hydrogen cyanide or prussic 

# 

acid, one of the most virulent poisons, from which it must be 
freed. This is done by shaking the liquid repeatedly with 
dilute solution of potassa, followed by agitation with water. 
Pure oil of bitter almonds is not poisonous, but has a very 
strong narcotic odor of bitter almonds, which, however, be¬ 
comes most marked when largely diluted with water. 

Benzoic Acid (Acidum benzoicum). 

t 

This acid, contained in benzoin, is made also syntheti¬ 
cally from other materials, in chemical laboratories. When 
pure it forms needle-shaped crystals having a silky gloss; 
they have a peculiar acrid taste, but no odor. Synthetic 
benzoic acid is worthless to the perfumer; in his art he can 
use only a benzoic acid made from gum benzoin by sublima¬ 
tion, because it contains a very aromatic essential oil for 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 75 

which the acid is merely the vehicle and which can also be 
employed alone. 

As this sublimed benzoic acid is often adulterated with 
the artificial, we advise the manufacturer of perfumery to make 
his own benzoic acid according to the following directions. 

The Manufacture of Sublimed Benzoic Acid. 

About four pounds of benzoin B of best quality is broken 
into small pieces and placed in a small copper boiler K (Fig. 
3); over its entire surface is pasted white blotting paper L, 
and to this is pasted a cone of strong pa¬ 
per which must surround the edge of the 
boiler. The cone ends above in a paper 
tube R, about five feet long and an inch 
wide. The copper boiler is placed in a 
large clay pot T (a flower pot) and sur¬ 
rounded on all sides with fine sand. The 
clay pot is heated from without by a char¬ 
coal fire. After the pot has remained about 
half an hour on the fire, the latter is fanned 
to its utmost and kept at this point for thirty minutes. The 
heat volatilizes the benzoic acid, the above-mentioned essen¬ 
tial oil, and some tarry substances of a brown color. The 
latter are arrested by the filter paper, while the benzoic acid 
is deposited on the cone and in the tube, in the form of deli¬ 
cate glossy needles which are very fragrant owing to the 
essential oil. The largest yield of benzoic acid is obtained 
when the temperature is raised very gradually, until finally 
nothing remains in the copper boiler but a brown, almost car¬ 
bonized mass of a blistered appearance. 

Borax (Sodii Boras) 

is used in some preparations. Borax forms colorless crystals 
which slightly effloresce in dry air and hence must be pre- 





y 6 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

served in tightly closed vessels. Reddish tinted cystals are 
contaminated with oxide of iron and should be rejected. 

Permanganate of Potassium (Potassi Permanganas) 

is a salt formed by fusing a mixture of manganese dioxide, 
potassa, and potassium chlorate, extracting the product with 
water, and evaporating the solution to crystallization; the 
salt is obtained in small dark violet, almost black crystals 
which dissolve in sixteen parts of water to which they impart 
a beautiful violet color. By contact with organic substances, 
or others easily oxidized, the solution changes its color into 
green and finally is decolorized, precipitating a brown powder. 
Owing to this change of color the salt has been called chame¬ 
leon mineral. As its preparation requires considerable dex¬ 
terity, it is preferable to buy it from reputable houses, rather 
than to make it. It is used in the manufacture of mouth 
washes and hair dyes. The solution of the salt causes brown 
stains on linen and the skin; they can be removed only if the 
spots are immediately washed with hydrochloric, oxalic, sul¬ 
phuric, or another acid. 

Acetic Acid (Acidum Aceticum). 

Much confusion exists in the literature regarding the 
strength of acetic acid when merely called by this name. 
It is safe to assume that, in each country, the term applies to 
the acid officinal in its national pharmacopoeia as “Acidum 
Aceticum.” Thus the Austrian and German pharmacopoeias 
understand by it an acid containing 96$ of absolute acetic 
acid, which is practically identical with what is known as 
glacial acetic acid. The latter is, in some pharmacopoeias, 
distinguished by a special name: acidum aceticum glaciale, 
U. S. P.; acide acetique crystallisable, French Pharm.— In the 
present work, the author always intended the strong acid of 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


77 


the Austrian pharmacopoeia to be understood when no other 
strength was designated. Like alcohol, strong acetic acid dis¬ 
solves essential oils and is used in the manufacture of various 
toilet vinegars and washes. Acetic acid is made in chemical 
laboratories by distillation of acetate of sodium with sulphuric 
acid, or more commonly from wood vinegar. The buyer 
should always satisfy himself that the product is free from an 
empyreumatic odor which clings tenaciously to an insuffi¬ 
ciently purified sample. 


Fats. 

Fats find extensive application in perfumery, in the pre¬ 
paration of the so-called huiles antiques, pomades, and many 

* 

other cosmetics. They should be enumerated among the 
chemical products used in perfumery because they can never 
be employed in their commercial form, but must undergo 
some process of purification, which is effected less by me¬ 
chanical than by chemical means. Commercial fats usually 
contain remnants of the animal or vegetable body from which 
they are derived: particles of blood and membranes occur 
frequently in animal fats; cell bodies and vegetable albumin 
in vegetable fats. Besides these mechanical impurities, fats, 
especially if old, sometimes contain small amounts of free 
fatty acids which suffice to impart to them the objectionable 
odor and taste peculiar to every rancid fat. While some fats, 
such as bear’s grease, butter of cacao, oil of sesame, and some 
others, remain free from rancidity for a long time, others 
undergo this change very rapidly; in fact, we may say that 
every fat which shows the slightest odor should be called 
rancid, for pure fat is absolutely odorless. 

We shall here briefly describe the process employed in 
the fat industry and by perfumers for the purification of fats. 
Animal fat, such as lard, suet, bear’s grease, etc., as well as 
cocoanut and palm oils, are introduced into a large iron boiler 


73 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


containing dilute soda lye (not exceeding one per cent of 
caustic soda), and the lye is heated to boiling. In the boiler 
is a small pump terminating above in a curved tube having 
a rose of a watering-pot at the end. The pump is so arranged 
as to raise lye and melted fat at the same time and to return 
the fluid into the boiler in a fine spray. After the fat is 
melted, the solid matters floating on top are skimmed off with 
a perforated spoon, and then the pump is operated for about 
fifteen minutes. The contained shreds of membrane and 
similar substances are completely dissolved by the soda lye, 
the free fatty acids are perfectly combined, and the fat is at 
the same time decolorized. After cooling, it floats on the 
surface of the lye as a colorless and odorless fluid; it is 
ladled off and poured into tall tapering vessels which are 
well closed and preserved in cool cellars. Contact with the 
air, especially at higher temperatures, causes rancidity of 
the fat. For every twenty pounds of fat twenty quarts of 
lye are used. 

According to another process the fat is purified by being 
heated with alum and table salt; or every twenty-five pounds 
of fat, one ounce of alum and two ounces of salt are dissolved 
in five gallons of water. The scum is carefully skimmed from 
the surface of the melted fat, and, after it has solidified, the 
fat is washed with water until the latter escapes perfectly 
tasteless and odorless. 

The washing is a very complicated and tedious piece of 
work. Operating on a small scale, a slightly inclined marble 
slab is taken, upon which a thin stream of water is con¬ 
stantly falling from a tube arranged above it. The fat is 
placed on the slab in small quantities (not over two pounds) 
and ground with a muller, like oil colors, under a constant 
flow of water. Owing to the expense of hand labor, it is ad¬ 
visable to use a so-called vertical mill or chaser. This con¬ 
sists of a level, circular, horizontal marble slab, bearing- a 

o 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


7 9 


central, easily movable axis with a crosspiece upon which two, 
likewise vertical, cylindrical marble plates turn like wheels in 
a circle on the horizontal marble plate. The fat is placed on 
the latter and continually irrigated with water; behind every 
chaser is applied a marble plate with a blade which nearly 
touches the chasers and returns the fat displaced laterally, 
under the chasers. The axis around which the chasers run 
is kept moving by any available power, and the laborer has 
nothing to do but to replace the washed fat with crude. 

Liquid fats are purified as follows: 

The oil is intimately mixed with one per cent of sulphuric 
acid. The mixture assumes a black color, the vegetable 
mucilage present in the oil becoming carbonized. After 
several days’ rest the oil becomes clear and floats on the sur¬ 
face of the sulphuric acid which has assumed a black color 
from the presence of finely divided carbon. The oil is de¬ 
canted and treated, in the manner above stated for solid fats, 
with caustic soda lye. Heating can be dispensed with if the 
pumping is continued for a longer time. 

Benzoin and benzoic acid have the property of counter¬ 
acting the tendency of fats to become rancid; it is advisable, 
therefore, to mix intimately with the completely washed fat 
a small amount of benzoic acid, at most one-one-thousandth 
part by weight. 

The best way of preserving fats is by salicylic acid. This 
is added to solid fats while they are in a melted state; if oils, 
the acid is poured in and the bottle vigorously shaken. If 
the oil is in casks, a small bag filled with salicylic acid is hung 
into it from the bung-hole. The acid dissolves in the oil and 
is disseminated through it and thus effects its preservation. 
One-one-thousandth part by weight of the fat or oil is said 
to be more than sufficient to keep it perfectly fresh for 
years. 

Fats differ largely in their physical properties—for in- 


8o 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


stance, in their appearance, melting-point, firmness, etc. As 
we shall return to this subject in connection with the manu¬ 
facture of some perfumes, it is enough here to state briefly 
that by the addition of spermaceti, wax, paraffin, etc., fats are 
made more transparent and firmer—a matter of importance 
for some cosmetic preparations. 

Chinese Gelatin. 

This substance, derived from several algae, species of 
Eucheuma, indigenous to the Chinese sea, and identical with 
Japanese agar-agar, on being boiled with two hundred parts 
of water has the property of forming a colorless solution 
which solidifies on cooling. Owing to this property the ad¬ 
dition of a small quantity of Chinese gelatin (o. 1-0.2$) is an 
excellent means for imparting to certain pomades and oint¬ 
ments great transparency and firmness. 

Fruit Ethers 

are liquids which possess an agreeable, refreshing odor re¬ 
sembling that of some fruits. For this reason they are used 
in confectionery, in the manufacture of liqueurs, and also in 
many ways in perfumery. Chemically, fruit ethers are com¬ 
binations of an. organic acid—acetic, butyric, valerianic, etc. 
—with a so-called alcohol radicle such as ethyl and amyl. 
Their manufacture is connected with many difficulties and is 
but rarely attempted by perfumers, especially as these pro¬ 
ducts are made a specialty in some chemical laboratories and 
are furnished at very low prices and of excellent quality. In 
perfumery the following fruit ethers are particularly employed. 

Acetic Ether, 

prepared by the distillation of acetate of sodium with alcohol 
and sulphuric acid, is a colorless liquid having an odor of fer¬ 
menting apple juice, with a boiling-point at 74 0 C. (155 0 F.). 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


8l 


Pine-apple Ether 

(ether or huile d’ananas) is made by the saponification of 
butter with solution of potassa, distillation of the soap with 
alcohol and sulphuric acid, and rectification of the distillate. 
It is an inflammable liquid with an intense odor of pine-apple; 
its boiling-point is 119 0 C. (246° F.). It is not generally used 
pure, as its odor needs some correction. This is accomplished 
by the addition of a little valerianate of amyl, and chloro¬ 
form. Also in other ways. 

Apple Ether, 

prepared by distillation from valerianate of sodium with alco¬ 
hol and sulphuric acid, and the subsequent addition of certain 
correctives (see below). 

Pear Ether, 

also called pear oil, chiefly valerianate of amyl oxide, can be 
obtained in large quantities from a by-product in the manu¬ 
facture of potato spirit, namely, amyl alcohol, which is care¬ 
fully heated in a still with bichromate of potassium and sul¬ 
phuric acid. The product thus obtained has a very pleasant 
odor of fine pears and boils at 196° C. (385° F.). But the com¬ 
mercial “ pear-essence ” is a more complex body (see following 
table). 

Nitrous Ether 

is a very volatile liquid boiling at 16 0 C. (6i° F.), which is 
obtained by distillation of strong alcohol with concentrated 
nitric acid and rectification of the distillate; it is less used in 
perfumery than the other fruit ethers. 

Fruit ethers, owing to their low price and great strength, 
are frequently employed in the manufacture of cheap per¬ 
fumery, in place of essential oils, but more largely for scent¬ 
ing soap. 

6 


82 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


The so-called raspberry and strawberry ethers consist of 
mixtures of acetic, pine-apple, apple, and other ethers (see 
following table), which, combined in certain proportions, 
really manifest an odor nearly akin to those of the fruits 
after which they are named. 

Fruit Ethers (Fruit Essences). 

Table Showing the Ingredients Usually Employed for Preparing 
Artificial Fruit Ethers (Fruit Essences). 



Peach. 

Apricot. 

Plum. 

Cherry. 

Black Cherry, i 

Lemon. 

Pear. 

Orange. 

Apple. 

Grape. 

Gooseberry. 

Raspberry. 

Strawberry. 

Melon. 

Pine-apple. 

Glycerin . 


5 

4 

8 

3 


5 

IO 

IO 

4 

IO 


4 

2 

3 

3 

Chloroform . . 



I 




i 


2 

1 

2 





T 

Nitrous ether. 






x 



T 



T 

T 



Aldehyde .... 


2 


5 



2 


2 

2 

2 

I 

I 


2 

i 

Acetate of ethyl . 

5 


5 

5 

IO 

IO 

5 

5 

I 


5 

5 

5 



Formate of ethyl . 

c 


I 





T 


O 


T 

T 



Butyrate of ethyl . 

3 

c 

IO 

2 





x 




x 

c 

A 

r 

Valerianate of ethyl . ... 

3 

C. 

c. 











3 

4 

c 

Z) 

Benzoate of ethyl . 




c 

c 



x 



1 

T 


3 


CEnanthate of ethyl . 

5 

I 

4 

3 

I 

3 

O 





TO 

I 

I 




Salicylate of methyl . 

2 

2 






r 


T 


T 

T 



Sebacic acid. . 


I 






IO 





T 


• • 

IO 

• • 

Acetate of amyl. 







IO 




T 

n 

IO 

Butyrate of amyl. 


I 




IO 


IO 




O 

o 


Valerianate of amyl. 















Essence of orange . 






IO 


IO 



5 

r 




Alcohol, solu- 

( Tartaric acid. . 





i 


i 

• I 

c 

3 




tions sat- 

Oxalic acid .. . 


I 




I 




3 

I 

I 




urated in^ 

Succinic acid. . 




i 

2 





O 

I 





the cold of 

^ Benzoic acid. . 










3 


I 






















Glycerin. 

This substance, which may be called a true cosmetic in 
itself, as it possesses marked solvent power for cutaneous 
coloring matters and at the same time imparts to the skin 
delicacy and flexibility, is at present to be had commercially 
in great purity. Pure glycerin is a brilliant, colorless, and 
odorless substance of the consistence of a thick syrup, which 
mixes with water and alcohol in all proportions and has a 

















































































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


33 


slightly warm but Very sweet taste. It readily absorbs aro¬ 
matic substances and is used in many valued toilet articles in 
combination with fats and perfumes. Recently we have suc¬ 
ceeded in using glycerin most successfully for the extraction 
of aromatic substances. 

Oil of Mirbane, 

also called artificial oil of bitter almonds, nitrobenzol, and 
essence of mirbane. This substance, which is now largely 
used in perfumery and soap manufacture, is obtained by the 
action of fuming nitric acid on benzol. The mixture becomes 
hot and emits masses of brown vapors, and there is formed a 
yellow oily body which is washed with water and soda solu¬ 
tion until the washings escape colorless. Pure nitrobenzol is 
not soluble in water, but in alcohol or ether, boils at 213 0 C. 
(415 0 F.), and congeals at —5 to 6° C. (21-23 0 F.). Its spec, 
grav. is 1.2 or a little over. Any oil of mirbane having a 
lower specific gravity than 1.2 at 15 0 C. (59 0 F.) is spurious, 
most likely nitrotoluol. Its odor greatly resembles that of 
oil of bitter almonds, but can be clearly differentiated from 
it on comparison. Care must be taken in inhaling the vapor 
when undiluted, as it is poisonous. By distillation nitroben¬ 
zol can be obtained quite colorless, and in this form is often 
used for the adulteration of genuine oil of bitter almonds. 
This adulteration, however, can be easily demonstrated by 
heating for a short time with an alcoholic solution of a caustic 
alkali which separates from nitrobenzol a brown resinous sub¬ 
stance, while true oil of bitter almonds loses its odor and 
changes into benzoic acid which unites with the alkali. 

Paraffin. 

This substance is one of the products of the distillation of 
petroleum, coal, peat, and other carbonaceous sources. It is 
a crystalline, brittle body, closely resembling wax in appear- 


8 4 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


ance and melting between 51 and 6o° C. (124 and 140° F.). Par¬ 
affin, which is now made on a large scale for the manufacture 
of candles, is very useful in perfumery as a partial substitute 
for the much more expensive wax or spermaceti, over which 
it has the advantage, besides its cheapness, that it imparts to 
the articles great transparency—a quality which is valued 
highly in fine perfumeries. The addition of some paraffin to 
pomades renders them more consistent and counteracts their 
tendency to become rancid. Distilled paraffin always has a 
crystalline form, differing from the paraffin-like residues left 
after the distillation of petroleum (so-called vaselins, etc., see 
below) which are always amorphous. 

Pryrogallic Acid 

appears in commerce as a white crystalline powder, made by 
heating gallic acid to 200-2io° C. (392-410° F.). With iron 
salts, pyrogallic acid forms bluish-black combinations and pre¬ 
cipitates the metal from silver solutions as a velvety-black 
powder. On account of these properties pyrogallic acid is 
used in perfumery as a constituent of some hair dyes. 

Sulphide of Potassium, 

liver of sulphur, hepar sulphuris, potassii .sulphuretum, the 
pentasulphide of potassium, is obtained by fusing together 
potash and sulphur, in the shape of a leather-brown mass 
which is soluble in water and on exposure to the air is gradu¬ 
ally decomposed with the development of the offensive sul¬ 
phuretted hydrogen gas; hence it should be preserved in well- 
closed vessels. An aqueous solution of this substance forms 
with lead or silver salts a black precipitate of sulphide of 
lead or silver, and is used for some hair dyes. 

• 

Starch Flour 

(amylum) is prepared from various vegetables sucn as pota¬ 
toes, rice, arrowroot, sago, etc., and when pure appears as an 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 85 

insoluble white powder which the microscope shows to be 
grains consisting of many superimposed layers. In commerce 
the price of the different varieties of starch fluctuates greatly; 
in perfumery well-cleansed potato starch can very well be 
used for dusting powders, and the so-called poudre de riz; in 
this country, corn starch is preferable. 

Vanillin, 

that is, the body to which vanilla owes its fragrance, is now 
made artificially and can be used in place of vanilla for soaps 
and pomades. 

Vaselin. 

In the distillation of petroleum there remain in the still as 
a residue large quantities of a substance which when purified 
is colorless and, according to the nature of the petroleum, at 
ordinary temperatures has either the consistence of lard, 
melting under the heat of the hand, or forms an oily liquid. 
In perfumery vaselin can be used like fat or oil, over which 
it has the advantage in that it always remains odorless and 
free from acid; hence it is very appropriate for the manufac¬ 
ture of pomades. The market affords numerous varieties of 
this substance, under different names: vaselin (oil and solid), 
albolene (oil and solid), cosmolin, etc., etc. 

Spermaceti 

is a substance found in the skull cavities of several whales 
and dolphins. In its properties it stands midway between 
beeswax, paraffin, and firm fats. In the living animal sper¬ 
maceti is fluid, but after its death it congeals to a white crys¬ 
talline mass of a fatty lustre, which melts at 40° C. (104° F.), 
and is frequently used for fine candles as well as for other 
articles. 

Wax 

(Cera alba), the well-known product of the bee; in per¬ 
fumery only bleached (white) wax is employed. In recent 


86 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


years Japanese wax has appeared in commerce; this is of 
vegetable origin, but in its properties resembles beeswax. 

Subnitrate of Bismuth, 

bismuth white, pearl white, bismuthi subnitras, blanc de bis¬ 
muth, blanc de perles, the basic nitrate of bismuth, the chief 
ingredient of many skin cosmetics, is prepared by dissolving 
metallic bismuth in moderately strong nitric acid, and pouring 
the solution into a large quantity of water, whereupon the 
subnitrate is precipitated. 

The precipitated powder is collected on a funnel and 
washed with pure water until the wash water no longer 
changes blue tincture of litmus to red. The bismuth white is 
dried and preserved in well-closed vessels, since in the air it 
gradually assumes a yellowish color; for any sulphuretted 
hydrogen present in the air is greedily absorbed by this salt, 
and the resulting combination with sulphur has a black color. 

Oxide of Tin 

is obtained by treating metallic tin with fuming nitric acid, 
adding the solution to a large quantity of water, and washing 
the product, which forms a white insoluble powder used cos¬ 
metically for polishing the finger nails. 

Besides the chemical products here enumerated, some 
others find application in perfumery; we shall describe their 
properties in connection with the articles into which they 
enter. In this connection mention may be made of the fact 
that more and more aromatic substances are now made arti¬ 
ficially which were formerly obtained with difficulty from 
plants. Besides vanillin mentioned above, cumarin, oil of 
wintergreen, and some other products are prepared artifi¬ 
cially. Heliotropin and nerolin are artificially prepared sub¬ 
stances, possessing an odor resembling that of heliotrope and 
oil of neroli, respectively, but not identical chemically with 


I 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 87 

the natural odorous substance. Artificial musk (Baur’s), is 
playing a role at present, but is not identical with the natural 
substance. 


C. The Colors used in Perfumery. 

Some articles are colored intentionally; this remark applies 
particularly to some soaps which not rarely are stained to ce"re¬ 
spond to the color of the flower whose odor they bear; for in¬ 
stance, violet soap. Some articles again are used only on 
account of their color; for instance, paints, hair and whisker 
dyes. As we shall discuss this subject at greater length in 
connection with these toilet articles, we merely state here 
that nowadays every manufacturer can choose between a 
large number of dyes of any color, all of which are innoxious; 
hence no perfumer should under any circumstances use poi¬ 
sonous colors. This is a matter of importance with sub¬ 
stances intended for immediate contact with the human body 
such as paints, lip salves, soaps, etc. All of these colors will 
be described hereafter. 


CHAPTER VII. 

THE EXTRACTION OF ODORS. 

EXCEPTING the articles made in Turkey and India (espe¬ 
cially oil of rose), most aromatic substances are manufactured 
in southern France and the adjoining regions of Italy, while 
a few (oils of peppermint and lavender) are produced in Eng¬ 
land; a few also (oils of peppermint, spearmint, wintergreen, 
sassafras, etc.) in the United States. However, as we have 
stated above, it is possible to cultivate some plants from 
which odors are extracted in the warm sections of this coun¬ 
try, and to obtain the most expensive perfumes from them. 
Among these plants our experience leads us to suggest vio- 



88 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


lets, roses, reseda, lavender, mints, syringa, lilac, and several 
others to which the climate is adapted. 

The methods by which the odors can be extracted from 
the plants differ according to the physical properties of the 
raw material and the chemical composition of the aromatic 
substance. We shall here briefly describe the methods thus 
far known, and at the same time add our own experience in 
this most important part of the art of perfumery. The aro¬ 
matic substances are obtained by pressure, by distillation, by 
maceration (infusion), by absorption (enfleurage) through air 
or through carbonic acid, and by extraction. 

Pressure. 

Certain aromatic substances that occur in large amounts 
in some parts of plants, are best obtained by pressure. The 
rinds of certain fruits contain an essential oil in considerable 
quantities inclosed in receptacles easily distinguished under 
the microscope. When these vegetable substances are sub¬ 
jected to strong pressure, the oil receptacles burst and the 
essential oil escapes. The force is usually applied through a 
screw press with a stout iron spindle; the vegetable sub¬ 
stances being inclosed in strong linen or horse-hair cloths, 
placed between iron plates, and subjected to a gradually in¬ 
creasing pressure. Comparative experiments have shown us 
that even with the most powerful presses a considerable 
amount of oil is lost owing to the fact that a large number of 
oil receptacles remain intact. For this reason, when oil is to 
be extracted by pressure, a hydraulic press is preferable, as 
it develops greater power than any other press. In the hy¬ 
draulic presses used for this purpose the piston fits exactly 
into a hollow iron cylinder with sieve-like openings in its cir¬ 
cumference. The vegetable substances are filled into this 
cylinder; when the pressure is applied, the fluids escape 



PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 89 

through the perforations, and the residue forms a compact 
woody cake which is then free from oil. 

Besides the essential oil, watery fluid is expressed, the 
whole appearing as a milky liquid, owing to the admixture of 
vegetable fibres, mucilage,^etc. It is collected in a tall glass 
cylinder which is set in a place free from any vibration. 
After remaining at rest for several hours the liquid separates 
into two layers, the lower being watery and mixed with 



mucilage, that floating on top being almost pure oil. The 
latter is separated, and finally purified by filtration through a 
double paper cone in a funnel covered with a glass plate. 

It is best to separate the water and oil in a regular sepa¬ 
ratory funnel, or in a simple apparatus illustrated in Fig. 4. 
It is made by cutting the bottom from a tall flask, and fitting 
into the neck by means of a cork a glass tube having a diame¬ 
ter of one-fourth to one-half inch. A rubber tube with stop¬ 
cock is fastened to the glass tube. By careful opening of the 
stop cock, the watery fluid can be drained off to the last drop. 










































9 o 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


To the perfumer this method is of little importance, since 
it is applicable only to a few substances which, moreover, 
give cheap odors. Still, the possession of a hydraulic press is 
advisable to every manufacturer who works on a large scale, 
as it is useful also in the preparation of several fixed oils fre- 



Fig. 5. 


quently employed in perfumery, for instance, oils of almonds, 
nuts, etc. 

Fixed oils are best extracted in so-called drop presses, the 
material having first been comminuted between rollers. 
These are arranged as shown in section in Fig. 5, and in 



Fig. 6. 

ground plan in Fig. 6. The apparatus consists of two smooth 
or slightly grooved iron cylinders t A and B, respectively four 
feet and one foot in diameter, which can be approximated or 
separated by means of set screws. The material is placed 
into the trough F containing a feeding roller moved by the 
belt P. The scrapers FF, pressed against the cylinders by 
















































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 91 

means of weighted levers, free the rollers from adhering 
pieces. 

The drop presses Figs. 7 and 8 consist of a hydraulic press 
with cylinders A and piston B; the troughs E are movable by 
means of rings between two vertical columns and every trough 
has a circular gutter d for the reception of the expressed oil. 
The iron pots G have double walls, the inner of which has a 
series of openings at its upper part; these pots are filled with 



the bruised material to be pressed and after this has been 
covered with a plate of horse-hair tissue are set in the press. 

As the piston rises, the troughs E sink into the pots, the 
escaping oil collects in the gutters d and thence passes into a 
receptacle. After pressing, the piston is allowed to sink back, 
the pots G are drawn aside (Fig. 8) to tabular surfaces, and 
other pots are substituted for the exhausted ones. These 
drop presses are suitable for the extraction of all fixed oils 
and also volatile oils present in orange and lemon peel, etc. 




































































































9 2 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Distillation. 

Many odors or essential oils possess the remarkable prop¬ 
erty that their vapors pass so largely with that of boiling 
water that they can be extracted in this way (by “ distilla¬ 
tion ”) from vegetable substances, though the essential oils 
have a boiling-point far above that of water. Distillation can 
be employed for a large number of substances; for instance, 
the essential oils present in cumin, anise, lavender, fennel, 
mace, nutmeg, etc., are extracted exclusively in this manner. 


n 



Fig. 9. 


For the extraction of odors in this way, according to the 
quantities of material to be worked, different apparatuses are 
used, some of the most important of which will be here de¬ 
scribed. 

For manufacturers who run without steam and are obliged 
to use a naked flame, the adjoining apparatus (Fig. 9) will be 
advantageous. 

It consists of a copper boiler A, the still, set in a brick 
furnace. The latter is so constructed that the incandescent 
gases strike not only the curved bottom of the still, but also 
its sides through the flues Z left in the brickwork. The still, 
whose upper part projects from the furnace, has an opening O 


















































































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


93 


on the left side, closed air-tight with a screw, which serves 
for refilling with water during distillation when necessary. 
To the margin of the still is fitted steam-tight the helm H, 
made of copper or tinned iron, having a prolongation, the 
tube R. The latter is joined to the conical projection v 
which terminates in the worm K. In some apparatuses this 
projection is omitted and the tube immediately joins the 
worm. The latter is made of tinned iron and, as the cut 
shows, is arranged in coils and supported by props t in the 
wooden or metal condenser F. The condenser bears above a 
short bent tube b, and below, immediately over the bottom, 
an elbow tube e , long enough to reach above the edge of the 
condenser, as indicated in the cut. 

The vegetable substances to be distilled can be put im¬ 
mediately into the still and covered with water; but in this 
case it is advisable to use a stirrer which must be kept mov¬ 
ing until the water boils, other¬ 
wise the material might burn 
at the bottom. But this acci¬ 
dent can also be prevented by 
applying a perforated false 
bottom to the still above the 
flues, or by inclosing the ma¬ 
terial in a wire-sieve basket C. 

In place of the basket C 
the apparatus can also be pro¬ 
vided with an additional ves¬ 
sel containing the material to 
be distilled. In the still A 
(Fig. io) the water is brought 
to boiling, the steam rises through the second still B in which 
the material is spread on a perforated bottom. The steam 
laden with the vapors of the essential oil passes through the 
tube R into the condenser. 


































94 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


It is very advantageous, and in large establishments alto¬ 
gether indispensable, to use steam in the distillation of essen¬ 
tial oils. Fig. ii represents the arrangement of such an ap¬ 
paratus. The still B (which in this case may be made of 
stout tinned iron) stands free and is provided with a wooden 
jacket M for the purpose of retaining the heat. Immediately 

above the curved bottom is a 
perforated plate on which the 
material rests. The tube D 
which enters the bottom of the 
still is connected with the boiler 
which furnishes steam at mod¬ 
erate tension. H is the faucet 
for the admission of steam; Hr 
is the faucet by which the water 
escapes from the- still at the 
end of the operation. After the 
still is filled with the material, 

Fig. ii. 

the faucet H is opened grad¬ 
ually and a continuous stream of steam is allowed to pass 
through the still until the operation is finished. 

When working with an open fire, as soon as vapors appear 
at the lower end of the worm (Fig. 9), cold water is admitted 
through the tube ne; as the cold water abstracts heat from 
the vapors and condenses them, it becomes warm, rises to 
the surface, and escapes through b, so that the worm is con¬ 
tinually surrounded with cold water. If for any reason the 
saving of cold water is an object, its flow may be so regulated 
that the vapors are just condensed, the warm distillate being 
allowed to cool in the air. When working with steam, the 
cold water must be admitted the moment the steam-cock is 
opened, and the flow of cold water should be ample during 
the distillation, which in this case is much shorter. 

The large apparatuses here described are generally used, 
























































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


95 


especially for the extraction from vegetable substances of 
odors present in considerable quantity, for instance, mace, 
nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, etc., or from bulky material as the 
various flowers. For very expensive odors, smaller apparatuses 
are often employed, the construction of which resembles that 
of the ones described. For this purpose small glass appara¬ 
tuses are very suitable; they are illustrated in Fig. 12. 

The still, a retort A, consists of a spherical vessel with a 
bottle neck t which is either closed with a cork or carries a 
thermometer or glass tube, and with a lateral tube, the neck 



of the retort, connected with the adapter r. The latter passes 
into the condenser C. At the lower end of R is the bent 
adapter v under which is placed the receptacle for the dis¬ 
tillate. The tube C is closed with corks, at its lower end is 
the ascending tube //, and at its upper end the descending tube 
g. During the distillation cold water flows in through h 
which cools the tube r and escapes at g. The tube C, as will 
be readily understood, acts like the condenser in the larger 
apparatuses above described. In order to prevent the break¬ 
ing of the retort, it is not heated over a flame, but is set in a tin 
vessel B filled with water. The comminuted vegetable mate¬ 
rial is inserted with water through the up-turned neck of the 
retort into the latter; the vessel B is filled with water which 
is raised to the boiling-point. 


















96 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

During distillation we obtain at the lower end of the con¬ 
denser pure water and essential oil. When larger quantities 
are to be distilled it is advisable to use a Florentine flask as 
a receptacle for the separation of the oil and water (Fig. 13). 

It consists of a glass bottle from the bottom 
of which ascends a tube curved above; the 
latter rises high enough to bring the curv¬ 
ature slightly below the neck of the flask. 
During the distillation the flask becomes 
filled with water W, on which floats a layer 
of oil O; the excess of water escapes 
through a at d until the flask finally con¬ 
tains more oil and very little water. 

When producing essential oils on a large scale, instead of 
the frail Florentine flasks it is advisable to use separators, the 
construction of which is illustrated in Fig. 14. They consist 
of glass cylinders, conical above and below, supported on a 
suitable frame. The water accumulating 
under the oil is allowed to escape by open¬ 
ing the stop-cock; when the first separator 
is filled with oil, the succeeding distillate 
passes through the horizontal tube into the 
next separator, etc. 

When the distillation is carried on in an 
ordinary still, we obtain, besides the essen¬ 
tial oil, a considerable quantity of aromatic 
water, that is, a solution of the oil in water. 

An apparatus which obviates the losses 

caused thereby is that of Schimmel de- 

/• 

scribed below, which is well adapted to 
the manufacture on a large scale. The apparatus is patented. 

The nearly spherical still D (Fig. 15) is surrounded by a 
jacket M; the inlet steam tube R is connected with a branch 
r which enters the interior of the still as a spiral tube with 



c 



Fig. 13. 









































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


97 


numerous perforations, while R opens into the space M. 
When r is opened, distillation takes place by direct steam; 
when R is opened, by indirect steam; when both faucets are 
opened, the still is heated at the same time with direct and 
indirect steam. 

The vapors rising from the still D pass through the helm 
C and the tube A into the worm K; the fluid condensed in 



Fig. 15. 


the latter drops into the tin Florentine flask F, the aromatic 
water flowing from the latter passes back into the still D 
through the Welter funnel T and is distilled over again, so 
that the entire distillation can be effected with very little 
water, and it is continued until the water escaping from the 
Florentine flask is freed from oil and odorless. 

When working with superheated steam, it is necessary to 
set under the funnel tube T a vessel twice the size of the 
Florentine flask, which is provided with a stop-cock above 
and below. The lower cock is closed, the vessel is allowed to 

fill with water from F, then the upper cock is closed, the con- 

7 


) 


































9 8 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


tents being allowed to escape into D by opening, wlien the 
cocks are again reversed. 

The use of superheated steam is important especially with 
material which gives up the contained oil with difficulty, such 
as woods. 

For freeing the essential oil completely from water we use 

a so-called separating funnel (Fig. 
16). This consists of a glass funnel 
T resting on a suitable support G, 
which is closed above with a glass 
plate ground to fit, drawn out below 
into a fine point S, and provided 
with a glass stop-cock H. The con¬ 
tents of the Florentine flask are 
poured into the funnel which is cov¬ 
ered with the glass plate and allowed 
to stand at rest until the layer of 
oil O is clearly separated from the 
water W. By careful opening of the 
stop-cock the water is allowed to es¬ 
cape and the oil is immediately filled into bottles which are 
closed air tight and preserved in a cool and dark place. 

Maceration (Infusion). 

Some odors, like those of cassie, rose, reseda, syringa, jas¬ 
mine, violets, and many other fragrant blossoms, cannot be 
obtained by distillation as completely or as sweet-scented as 
by the process of maceration which is in general use among 
the large perfumers in southern France. This process is 
based on the property of fats to absorb odorous substances 
with avidity and to yield them almost entirely to strong alco¬ 
hol. According to the fat employed for the maceration of 
the flowers—a solid fat like lard or a liquid like olive oil— 
odorous products are obtained which are known either as 





















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


99 


pomades or as perfumed oils (huiles antiques). By repeatedly 
treating fresh flowers with the same fat the manufacturer is 
able to perfume the pomade or oil at will, and in the factories 
these varying strengths are designated by numbers; the 
higher numbers indicating the stronger products. 

The process of maceration is very simple. The fat is put 
into porcelain or enamelled iron pots which are heated, in a 
shallow vessel filled with water, to 40 or at most 50° C. (104 
-122 0 F.); the flowers are inclosed in small bags of fine linen 
and hung into the fat, where they are allowed to remain for 
from one-half to two days. At the end of that time the bags 
are removed, drained, expressed, refilled with fresh flowers, 
and replaced in the fat. This procedure is repeated twelve 



to sixteen times or oftener, thus producing pomades or oils 
of varying fragrance. 

As the odors are much superior when the flowers are only 
a short time in contact with the fat, it is better to use an ap¬ 
paratus for continuous operation (Fig. 17). It consists of a 
box K made of tin plate, which is divided into from five to 
ten compartments by vertical septa and can be closed water 
tight by a lid to be screwed on. The septa have alternate 
upper and lower openings. The compartments contain each 
a basket of tinned wire filled with the flowers for maceration, 
then the lid is closed and the box heated in a water bath to 
40 or 50° C. (104-122° F.). The stop-cock H in tube R is 
now opened. This admits melted fat or oil from a vessel 
above to the first compartment in which it rises through the 


> 

> 

) 




) 

) ) 

> ) 


) 















100 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


basket filled with flowers whose odor it abstracts. The addi¬ 
tional fat coming from above drives it over through the open¬ 
ing 0 2 into compartment 2, where it comes in contact with 
fresh flowers, passes through 0 3 into the third compartment, 
and so on through 4 and 5, until it finally escapes through Ri 
well charged with odor. According to requirements a larger 
number of compartments may be employed. 

When all the fat has passed through the apparatus, it is 
opened, the basket is removed from compartment 1, the bas¬ 
ket from No. 2 is placed in 1, that from 3 in 2, etc.; basket 1 
is emptied, filled with fresh flowers, and placed in compart¬ 
ment 5, so that every basket gradually passes through all 
compartments to No. 1. In this way the fat rapidly absorbs 
all the odor. 

The odorous substances are abstracted from the pomades 
or huiles antiques by treatment with strong alcohol (90-95$) 
which dissolves the essential oils but not the fats. The huiles 
antiques with the alcohol are placed in large glass bottles and 
frequently shaken. In order to abstract the odors from 
pomades, the latter are allowed to congeal and are divided 
into small pieces which are inserted into the bottles of alco¬ 
hol. A better plan is to fill the pomades into a tin cylinder 
with a narrow opening in front and to express the pomades, 
by a well-fitting piston, in the shape of a thin thread which 
thus presents a large surface to the action of the alcohol, thus 
hastening the absorption of the odor. The alcoholic solution 
obtained after some weeks is then distilled off at a low tem¬ 
perature. We shall recur to this hereafter. 

No matter how long the fats are left in contact with alco¬ 
hol, they do not yield up to it all the odor, but retain a small 
portion of it and hence have a very fragrant smell. They 
are, therefore, brought into commerce as perfumed oils or 
pomades bearing the name of the odorous substance they 
contain: orange flower, reseda pomade or oil, etc.; they are 



PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


IOI 


highly prized and are sometimes used again for the extrac¬ 
tion of the same odor. 

Some odors cannot bear even the slight rise of tempera¬ 
ture necessary for their extraction by the method of macera¬ 
tion or infusion. For these delicate odors one of the follow¬ 
ing methods may be employed. 

Absorption or Enfleurage. 

In this method the absorbing power of fat is likewise used 
for retaining the odors, but the flowers are treated with the 
fat at ordinary temperatures. This procedure which is em¬ 
ployed especially in southern France is carried out as follows. 
The fat (lard) is spread to a thickness of about one-quarter 


R 

R 


inch on glass plates G one yard long and two feet wide, which 
are inserted in wooden frames R and sprinkled with flowers 
F (Fig. 18). The frames are superimposed (the cut shows two 
of the frames) and left for from one to three days, when fresh 
flowers are substituted for the wilted ones, and so on until 
the pomade has attained the desired strength. 

This procedure is very cumbrous and tedious and there¬ 
fore had better be modified thus: In an air-tight box K (Fig. 
19) we place a larger number of glass plates g covered with 
lard drawn into fine threads by means of a syringe. This box 
is connected with a smaller one Ki which is filled with fresh 
flowers and provided with openings below and above, O and 
Oi. The latter, O z , communicates by a tube with box K, at 
whose upper end is a tube e terminating in an exhaust fan so 
that the air must pass through the apparatus in the direction 






















102 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

indicated by the arrows. A small fan V driven by clockwork 
will answer. The air drawn from Ki is laden with odors and 
in passing over the fat as shown by the arrows gives them up 
completely to the fat. The use of this apparatus has very 
important advantages: the absorption is effected rapidly, re¬ 
quires little power, and the flowers do not come at all into 



Fig. 19. 


contact with the fat which therefore can take up nothing but 
the odors present in the air. 

Instead of charging the fat with odors by either one of 
the methods here described, carbonic acid can also be employed 
with advantage, by means of the apparatus illustrated in Fig. 
20. The large glass vessel G contains pieces of white marble 
M upon which hydrochloric acid is poured at intervals 
through the funnel tube R. A current of carbonic acid is 
thus developed, which passes through a wash bottle W filled 
with water, then through the tin vessel B containing fresh 
flowers, and finally into a bottle A filled with strong alcohol 
and set in cold water, after which it escapes through the tube 























































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 103 

e. The carbonic acid absorbs the aromatic vapors from B 
and leaves them in the alcohol which absorbs them. (G, R, 
W are made of glass, B of tin.) 


R 



Fig. 20. 


Extraction. 

This method is based on the fact that some volatile liquids 
such as ether, chloroform, petroleum ether, or bisulphide of 
carbon possess the property of rapidly extracting the aro¬ 
matic substances from flowers; when they are evaporated at 
a gentle heat they leave the pure odors behind. In our opin¬ 
ion this process is the best of all for the perfumer and it is to 
be regretted that it is not more generally used. 

As a rule we employ either petroleum ether or bisulphide 
of carbon (see above, pp. 65, 66) because these products are 
cheaper than ether or chloroform. 

The apparatus we use for this purpose is illustrated in 
Fig. 21. It consists of a cylinder C made of tinned iron, 
which is provided above with a circular gutter R terminating 
in a stop-cock h and which can be closed by a lid D bearing 
a stop-cock 0. A tube b with a stop-cock a enters the bottom 
of the cylinder. The latter is filled with the flowers, the vola¬ 
tile liquid (petroleum ether, bisulphide of carbon, etc.) is 
poured over them, the lid is put on, and the gutter R filled 
with water, thereby sealing the contents of the vessel hermeti¬ 
cally. 


































































104 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


After the extraction, which requires about thirty to forty 
minutes, stop-cock o is opened first, then stop-cock a , and the 
liquid is allowed to escape into the retort of the still (Fig. 12). 
If the extraction is to be repeated, the water is allowed to 
escape from the gutter through h, the lid is opened, and the 
solvent is again poured over the flowers. 

For operation on a larger scale the glass retorts are too 
small and should be replaced by tin vessels (Fig. 22) having 
the form of a wide-mouthed bottle F; they are closed by a 
lid D which is rendered air tight by being clamped upon the 




Fig. 22. 


flange of the vessel (R) with iron screws S, a pasteboard 
washer being interposed; a curved glass tube connects the 
apparatus with the condenser of Fig. 12. 

The solutions of the aromatic substances are evaporated 
in these apparatuses at the lowest possible temperature, the 
solvent being condensed and used over again. The heat re¬ 
quired is for ether about 36° C. (97 0 F.), for choloroform about 
65° C. (149 0 F.), for petroleum ether about 56° C. (133 0 F.), 
and for bisulphide of carbon about 45 0 C. (113 0 F.). If it is de¬ 
sired to obtain the aromatic substances pure from an alcoholic 
extract of the pomades made by one of the above-described 
processes—which is rarely done since these solutions are gen¬ 
erally used as such for perfumes—a heat of 75 to 8o° C. 
(167 to 176° F.) is required. 

































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 105 

Another extraction apparatus illustrated in Fig. 23 is 
well adapted to operations on a large scale. Its main parts 
are the extractor E and the still B. The former is set in a 
vat W continually supplied with cold water. The still B is 
surrounded with hot water in the boiler K. 

To start the apparatus the cone C is removed, the vessel 
E is filled with the material to 
be extracted, and C is replaced. 

The faucets FE and H 4 are open¬ 
ed, the solvent is poured into the 
still through the latter, when 
these faucets are closed and 

those marked H and H, are 

opened. 

The water in K is heated 
until the contents of B are in 
brisk ebullition; the vapor rises 
through RH, is condensed on 
entering E and falls in small 
drops on the material. This fine 
rain of the solvent dissolves the 
aromatic substances and flows back into B, where it is again 
evaporated, and so on. 

At the end of the extraction the faucets H and Hi are 

closed and H 2 is opened. The vapors of the solvent pass 

through it into a worm where they are condensed; the essen¬ 
tial oil remaining in B is drained off by opening H 3 . 

For still larger operations more perfect apparatuses are 
employed, such as those of Seiffert and Vohl. Seiffert’s ap¬ 
paratus (Fig. 24) consists of a battery of jacketed cylinders; 
steam circulates in the space between the cylinders and the 
jackets. Each cylinder contains a plate covered with a wire 
net on which the flowers to be extracted are placed. All the 
cylinders having been filled and closed, the solvent is admitted 



Fig.23. 

































































































io6 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


from a container above, through S and a into C 2 ; when this 
is filled the liquid flows through a 2 b 3 c n into .C . The solution 
saturated with essential oil leaves the apparatus through d n 
and p and enters a reservoir. The course of the liquid is 
aided by the suction of an air-pump acting on p. 

When the reservoir contains an amount of fluid equal to 
that in C n , d n is closed, a n is opened, and C connected with 
C 1 through b n and c\ That the contents of C 2 are completely 
extracted is shown by the fact that the liquid appears color¬ 
less in the glass tube inserted in b~\ a 1 and C 2 are closed; a 2 
and C 3 are opened, thereby excluding C 2 from the current of 



Fig. 24. 


bisulphide of carbon which then flows through C 3 C n C\ In 
order to permit the free flow of the bisulphide of carbon 
through S despite the exclusion of C 2 , the faucets a l a 2 a 3 a n 
must be two-way cocks; in one position they connect S with b; 
in the other they close b and leave the passage through S 
open. 

In order to collect the bisulphide of carbon present in the 
extracted residue in C 2 , faucet g 2 is opened and the bisulphide 
of carbon allowed to escape through //. The faucet e 2 in tube 
L on being opened admits compressed air to C 2 , thus hasten¬ 
ing the outflow. If nothing escapes below, faucets f* and f x 
are opened, steam enters through tube D between jacket and 
cylinder; the bisulphide of carbon vapor passes through^ 2 






































































































































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


10 / 


and h into the worm. After the expulsion of the bisulphide 
of carbon, C 3 is emptied, refilled, connected with C 1 , and bi¬ 
sulphide of carbon admitted from C 3 in the manner above 
described. 

An extraction apparatus which has been much recom¬ 
mended of late is the so-called “ Excelsior Apparatus ” made 
by Wegelin and Huebner, Halle a. S., which can be worked 



Fig. 25. 


with any desired solvent. The construction of the apparatus 
(Figs. 25 and 26) is as follows. 

The solvent is admitted to the reservoir R in the lower 
part of the condenser B through the tube indicated in the 
ficfure. The material to be extracted having been filled into 
the cylinder A through the manhole, the apparatus is closed. 
The cold water is admitted to the condenser by opening a 
faucet. The three-way cock shown in Fig. 25 is so placed as 










































io8 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


to open a communication of the overflow tube with A. The 
faucet at the lower end of the reservoir R is now opened suffi¬ 
ciently and the solvent passes into A from above, and as it 
descends takes up more and more oil, flows through the sieve- 



Fig. 26. 


plate, and escapes through the tube at the bottom of A 
through the three-way cock, the overflow tube, and the drain - 
tube into the accumulator C. The opening of a faucet now 
admits steam to the heating coil, when the solvent evaporates, 
leaving the oil or fat behind. It is condensed in B, again re- 




































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 109 

turns to R, whence it passes once more through the faucet 
into the extractor A. The vessel C and the tubes leading to 
A and C are surrounded with felt to prevent loss of heat. A 
sample taken from the small cock at the foot of A (it has a 
small plate in the interior of the tube) will show when the ex¬ 
traction in A may be looked upon as finished. The solvent 
is distilled off or recovered from the residue in A in the fol¬ 
lowing manner. First the faucet in R is closed. The three- 
way cock A is set to establish direct communication between 


o, a 



Fig. 27. 


A and C, thus cutting off the overflow tube. Hence all the 
solvent in A flows into C for distillation, while the oil is left 
behind. Steam being admitted to the residue, the solvent 
rises as vapor through the upper tube from A to B and col¬ 
lects in a liquid state in R. To drive off the last traces of 
the solvent from the fat or oil obtained, steam is blown into 
C by opening the valve. Besides the solvent, watery vapor 
•enters B and forms a layer of water in R under the solvent. 
By taking a sample from the test-cock of the reservoir C 
which has an internal small plate, the termination of the pro¬ 
cess is ascertained. The gauge tube at the reservoir shows 

















































IIO PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

the level of the solvent and water. The water is drawn off 
by opening the faucet at the lower end of the reservoir. A 
is emptied through the manhole and by draining the oil from 
C through the discharge cock. The tube R is closed by a 

light valve so as to prevent evaporation of the solvent. All 

. \ 

the apparatuses work without pressure so that there is no 
danger from overstrain. 

The solutions of the essential oils in bisulphide of carbon 



Fig. 28. 


are distilled off in the steam still illustrated in Fig. 27; the 
steam enters at /i, the water of condensation escapes at d, the 
liquid to be distilled enters at e from a container at a higher 
level. The boiling is kept uniform by the stirring arrangement 
hg. After the bisulphide of carbon is distilled off, air is passed 
through the oil by the curved tube a which has fine perfora¬ 
tions, so as to evaporate the last traces of the solvent. 

In Void's apparatus (Fig. 28), arranged for petroleum 
ether, the extraction is effected with the boiling fluid; hence 























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


111 


this apparatus is better adapted for the cheaper oils than for 
the finest oils from flowers. The apparatus consists of two 
extractors A A, the accumulator B, and the condenser C. Pe¬ 
troleum ether is allowed to flow over the substances to be ex¬ 
tracted, by opening the faucets mm, vh, closing ogw E, and 
opening o, the course being through nx to B. # When B is 
two-thirds full, the flow of petroleum ether is cut off, steam 
is admitted through y and the contents of B are brought to 
the boiling-point. The vapors pass through g and are con¬ 
densed in f until the contents of A reach the boiling-point of 
the solvent, when the vapors pass through i into C, and after 
closing in' the liquid passes through ml into the inner cylin¬ 
der of the extraction apparatus and returns through uxx. 

After the contents of A are extracted, m ' is opened, m 
closed, and steam is admitted through d into the jacket of A; 
the vapors of the solvent force the liquid part of the contents 
through ux into B. Overfilling of B is prevented by allowing 
the vapors of the solvent to escape at the 
proper time into the condenser through 
p by opening q. Then v is closed, q 
opened, and the steam present in A 
drawn off by an exhaust applied to p; 
as soon as p begins to cool, all the pe¬ 
troleum ether is distilled off, the steam is 
cut off at d, and the extract evacuated 
through t. The contents of B are brought 
into a still through D and E. 

By employing greater pressure the ex¬ 
traction can also be effected by what is 
called displacement; the material to be 
extracted is placed in a stout-walled ves¬ 
sel S (Fig. 29) which is connected by a 
•narrow tube at least ten yards long with the vessel F con¬ 
taining the solvent. Stopcock H is first opened, then stop- 



Fig, 29. 


























112 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


cock Hi which is closed as soon as fluid begins to flow from 
it. After the liquid has remained in contact with the ma¬ 
terial for from thirty to sixty minutes, Hi is opened very 
slowly, the liquid is allowed to escape and is displaced with 
water which is made to pass out of F in the same way as the 
solvent, until the latter is completely displaced from S. 

After the solvent has been distilled off, the less volatile 
essential oil remains in the still almost pure, containing only 
traces of wax, vegetable fat or coloring matter which are of 
no consequence for our purposes. The last remnants of the 
solvent cannot be expelled by distillation, but by forcing 



Fig. 30. 


through the essential oil a current of pure air for fifteen or 
twenty minutes. The essential oils then are of the purest, 
unexceptionable quality. 

In the case of delicate oils it is better to use carbonic acid 
in place of air for expelling the last traces of the solvent, as 
the oxygen may impair the delicacy of the fragrance. For 
this purpose we use the apparatus illustrated in Fig. 30. In 
the large bottle A carbonic acid is generated by pouring 
hydrochloric acid over fragments of white marble. The car¬ 
bonic acid passes into the vessel B filled with water which 
frees it from any adhering drops of hydrochloric acid; then 
into C filled with sulphuric acid to which it yields its water 
so that only pure carbonic acid escapes through the fine rose 





















































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


113 

at the end of tube D which is made of pure tin, and as it 
passes through the oil in E it carries off the last traces of the 
volatile solvent. In its final passage through the water in 
F it leaves behind any oil that may have been carried with it. 

As all the aromatic substances change in air by the grad¬ 
ual absorption of oxygen, and lose their odor—become resini- 
fied—these costly substances must be put into small bottles 
which they completely fill, and be preserved in a cool dark 
place, as light and heat favor resinification. The bottles must 
be closed with well-fitting glass stoppers. 

Aromatic waters or eaux aromatisees, such as jasmine 
water (eau de jasmin), orange-flower water (eau de fleurs 
d'oranges, eau triple de Neroli, aqua naphae triplex), etc., are 
made by distillation of these flowers with water and show a 
faint but very fine odor. When they contain, besides, dilute 
alcohol they are called spirituous waters or esprits. Those 
brought into commerce from southern France are of excel¬ 
lent quality. 


The Yield of Essential Oils. 


The quantities of essential oil obtainable from the vege¬ 
table substances vary with the amount present in each. The 
following table shows the average quantities of oil to be ob¬ 
tained from 100 parts of material. 


Material. 


Name of Plant. 


Mean Yield 
per 100 Parts. 


Ajowan seed. 

Alant root. 

Allspice... 

Almonds, bitter. 

Angelica seed. 

Angelica root, Thuring. . 
“ “ Saxon . . . 

Anise seed, Russian. 

Thuring. 

“ “ Morav. 

8 


Ptychotis Ajowan. 3.000 

Inula Helenium. 0.600 

Myrtus Pimenta. 3-5°° 

Amygdala amara. 0.400-0.700 

Archangelica officinalis. 1. 1 5° 

“ “ o-75° 

“ “ . 1.000 

Pimpinella Anisum. 2.800 


2.600 




















PERFUMES AND TIIEIR PREPARATION. 


u 


u 


u 


u 


114 

,, . Mean Yield 

Material. Name of Plant. per 1QQ Parts> 

Anise seed, Chili.Pimpinella Anisum. 2.400 

Spanish. “ “ 3.000 

Levant. “ “ 1.300 

Anise chaff. “ “ 0.666 

Arnica flowers.Arnica montana. 0.040 

Arnica root. “ “ . 1.100 

Asafcetida.Ferula Asafoetida. 3.250 

Avens root.Geum urbanum. 0.040 

Basilicum herb, fresh. . .Ocymum basilicum. 0.040 

Bay leaves..-.Pimenta acris. 2.300-2.600 

Bear’s berry.Uva ursi. 1.010 

Beech tar.Betula alba. 20.000 

Bergamots. ab. 3.400 

Betel leaves.Piper Betle. 0.550 

Bitter almond meal.Amygdala amara. 0.950 

Buchu leaves.Barosma crenulata. 2.600 

Butter-bur oil.Tussilago Petasites. 0.056 

Calamus root.Acorus Calamus. 2.800 

Camomile, German.Matricaria Chamomilla. . . . 4.000-6.000 

Roman.Anthemis nobilis. 3.000 

Caraway seed, 

Cult. German.Carum Carvi. 4.000 


44 


Dutch ....... 

East Prussian. 

Moravian. 

Wild German. 

Norwegian . . . 
Russian. 


44 


44 


44 


44 


44 


44 


44 


44 


44 


44 


44 


44 


44 


4 * 


44 


44 


- 5.500 

. . . . 5.000 

. . . . 5.000 

6.000—7.000 
6.000-6.500 
. . . . 3.000 


44 


44 


Cardamoms, Ceylon.Elettaria Cardamomum. 4.250 

Madras.... “ “ 4.300 

Malabar.... “ “ 1.750 

Siam. “ “ 1.350 

Carrot seed.Daucus Carota. 1.650 

Cascarilla bark.Croton Eluteria.; . . . 1.500 

Cassia flowers.Cinnamomum Cassia. 3-5 00 

Cassia wood. “ “ . 0.285 

Cedar wood.Juniperus virginianus. 0.700-1.000 

Celery herb.Apium graveolens. 0.200 

Celery seed. “ “ . 0.300 







































































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


I 15 


U 


a 


a 


Material. Name of Plant. Mean Yield 

per 100 Parts. 

Chekan leaves.Myrtus Chekan. 1.000 

Cinnamon, Ceylon.Cinnamomurn zeylanicum. . 0.900-1.250 

white.Canella alba. 1.000 

Cloves, Amboina.Caryophyllus aromaticus. 19.000 

Bourbon. “ “ 18.000 

Zanzibar. “ “ 17.500 

stems. “ “ 6.000 

Common wormwood herb. Artemisia Abrotanum. o. 040 

“ “ root. “ “ . 0.100 

Copaiva balsam, Para ... Copaifera officinalis. 45.000 

East Ind. Dipterocarpus turbinatus. 65.000 

Coriander seed, 

Thuringian.Coriandrum sativum. 0.800 

Russian. “ “ 0.900 

Dutch. “ “ 0.600 

East Indian. “ “ 0.150 

Italian. . .. “ “ . o. 700 

Mogadore. “ “ 0.600 

Crisp mint herb.Mentha crispa. 1.000 

Cubebs.Piper Cubeba. 12.000-16.000 

Culilaban bark.Laurus Culilavan. 3.400 

Cumin seed, Mogadore. .Cuminum Cyminum. .. 3.000 

Maltese. ... “ “ . 3.900 

Syrian. “ “ 4.200 

East Indian “ “ 2.250 

Curcuma root.Curcuma longa. 5.200 

Dill seed, German.Anethum graveolens. 3.800 

“ “ Russian. “ “ . 4.000 

East Indian. . .Anethum Sowa. 2.000 

Elder flowers.Sambucus niger. 0.025 

Elemi resin.Icica Abilo. 17.000 

Eucalyptus leaves, dry. .Eucalyptus globulus. 3.000 

Fennel seed, 

Saxon.Foeniculum vulgare. 5.000-5.600 

Galician. “ “ . 6.000 

East Indian.Foeniculum Panmorium. 2.200 

Galanga root.Alpinia Galanga. o- 75 ° 

Galbanum resin.Galbanum officinale. 6.500 

Geranium.Pelargonium odoratissimum. o. 115 


U 


U 


u 


u 


u 


u 


































































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


116 


Material. 


Name of Plant. 




u 


u 


u 


u 


u 


Ginger root, 

African.Zingiber officinale 

Bengal . 

Japan. 

Cochin China. 

Hazel root.Asarum europseum. 

Heracleum seed.Heracleum Sphondylium 

Hop flowers.Humulus Lupulus. 

Hop meal, lupulin. “ “ . 

Hyssop herb.Hyssopa officinalis. 

Iva herb.Iva moschata. 

Juniper berries, 

German.Juniperus communis.. .. 

Italian. 

Hungarian. 

Laurel berries.Laurus nobilis. 

Laurel leaves. “ “ . 

Laurel, Californian.Oreodaphne californica. 

Lavender flowers, 

German.Lavandula vera. 

Linaloe wood.Elaphrium graveolens. . 

Lovage root.Levisticum officinale... 

Mace .Myristica fragrans. 

Marjoram herb, fresh. . .Origanum Majorana .. . 


U 


u 


u 


u 


“ “ dry ... . 

Marsh-rosemary oil 

Massoy bark. 

Masterwort root. . . 

Matico leaves. 

Matricaria herb. . . 

Melissa herb. 

Michelia bark. 

Milfoil herb. 

Musk seed. 

Mustard seed, 

Dutch. 

German. 

East Indian. .. 
Pugliese. 


u u 

Ledum palustre. 

Massoia aromatica. 

Imperatoria Ostruthium 
Piper angustifolium. . . . 
Matricaria Parthenium. 

Melissa officinalis. 

Michelia nilagirica. 

Achillea Millefolium. . . 
Hibiscus Abelmoschus.. 

Sinapis nigra. 

<< <( 

(< a 

a a 


Mean Yield 
per ioo Parts. 

. 2.600 

. 2.000 

. 1.800 

. 1.900 

. I. IOO 

. 1.000 

. 0.700 

. 2.250 

. 0.400 

. 0.400 

. 0.500—0.700 

. I. IOO— 1.200 

. I.000—I. IOO 

. 1.000 

. 2.400 

. 7.600 

. 2.900 

. 5 -ooo 

. 0.600 

11.000—16.000 

. °- 35 ° 

. 0.900 

. °- 35 ° 

. 0.800 

. 2.400 

. 0.030 

. 0.100 

. o 300 

. 0.080 

. 0.200 

. O.85O 

. o- 75 ° 

. °- 59 ° 

. o- 75 ° 






































































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


II7 


Material. Name of Plant. Mean 'Held 

per ioo Parts. 

Mustard seed, Russian. .Sinapis juncea. 0.500 

Myrrh.Balsamodendron Myrrha.. . .2.500-6.500 

Myrtle.Myrtus communis. 0-275 

Nigella seed.Nigella sativa. 0.300 

Nutmegs.Myristica fragrans. 8.000-10.000 

Olibanum resin.Boswellia, var. spec. 6.300 

Opoponax resin.Pastinaca Opoponax. 6.500 

Orange peel, sweet.Citrus Aurantium. 2.500 

Orris root.Iris florentina. 0.200 

Parsley herb.Apium Petroselinum. 0.300 

Parsley seed. u “ . 3.000 

Parsnip seed.Pastinaca sativa. 2.400 

Patchouly herb.Pogostemon Patchouly .... 1.500-4.000 

Peach kernels.Amygdalus persica.0.800-1.000 

Pellitory root.Valeriana celtia. 1.000 

Pepper, black.Piper nigrum. 2.200 

Peppermint, fresh.Mentha piperita. 0.300 

Peppermint, dry. ■** * “ . 1.000-1.250 

Peru balsam.Toluifera Pereirae. 0.400 

Pimpernel root.Pimpinella saxifraga. 0.025 

Poplar sprouts.Populus niger. 0.500 

Rhodium wood.Convolvulus Scoparius. 0.050 

Rose flowers, fresh.Rosa centifolia. 0.050 

Rosemary .Rosmarinus officinalis. I - 55 ° 

Rue herb..Ruta graveolens. 0.180 

Sage herb, German.Salvia officinalis. 1.400 

“ “ Italian. “ “ .. 1.700 

Santal wood, 

East Indian.Santalum album. 4 - 5 °° 

Macassar. “ “ . 2.500 

West Indian.Unknown . 2.700 

Sassafras wood.Sassafras officinalis. 2.600 

Savin herb.Juniperus Sabina. 3 - 75 ° 

Snakeroot, Canadian. . . .Asarum canadense. 2.800-3.250 

“ Virginian . . . Aristolochia Serpentaria. 2.000 

Star-anise, Chinese.Illicium anisatum. 5 - 000 

Japanese. . . .Illicium religiosum. 1.000 

Storax .Liquidambar orientalis. 1.000 

Sumbul root.Ferula Sumbul. 0.300 








































































118 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


,, . , , T . rn Mean Yield 

Material. Name of Plant. per I0Q Parts 

Tansy herb... . . .Tanacetum vulgare. 0.150 

r l'hyme.Thymus Serpyllum. 0.200 

“ dry. “ “ . 0.100 

Valerian root, German. .Valeriana officinalis.. 0.950 

“ “ Dutch... " “ . 1.000 

Japan. . . .Patrinia scabiosaefolia. 

Vetiver root.Andropogon muricatus. 0.200-0.350 

Violet flowers.Viola odorata. 0.030 

Water-yarrow seed.Phellandrium aquaticum. 1.300 

Wintersweet marjoram..Origanum creticum. 3 - 5 °° 

Worm seed.Artemisia maritima. 2.000 

Wormwood herb.Artemisia Absinthium.0.300-0.400 

Zedoary root.Curcuma Zedoaria. 1.300 


Fresh flowers as a rule contain more aromatic material 
than wilted ones; the yield of dried herbs, leaves, etc., is usu¬ 
ally greater than that of the fresh, because the latter contain 
much water which is lost in drying. When such vegetable 
materials cannot be worked fresh, which is best, they should 
be completely dried, spread on boards, at a moderate tempera¬ 
ture in the shade and preserved in dry airy rooms, special 
care being had to guard against mould. 


CHAPTER VIII. 

THE SPECIAL CHARACTERISTICS OF ARO¬ 
MATIC SUBSTANCES. 

In a preceding chapter on the chemical properties of the 
vegetable substances many of their characteristics have been 
described. In this place we need only describe the physical 
properties of the essential oils, and with some of them to lay 
stress on those peculiarities by which they are specially differ¬ 
entiated. This knowledge is of the greatest importance to 

























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


I 19 

the manufacturer of perfumery because no single individual is 
in a position to prepare all aromatic substances himself, but 
must rely on commerce for some of them; and in no group 
of chemicals is adulteration as frequent and as difficult of dem¬ 
onstration as among the aromatics. These adulterations 
are carried so far that many essential oils occurring in com¬ 
merce under certain names olten have nothing in common 
with the substance for which they are sold but the name. 

Oil of Cassie, 

The oil of Acacia farnesiana is greenish-yellow and viscid; 
the density and boiling-point, which are of the greatest im¬ 
portance with reference to the genuineness of an essential oil, 
are not yet accurately known. Moreover, this oil never 
occurs in commerce as such, but its odor is present in per¬ 
fumes, fixed oils, and pomades. 

Oil of Anise 

should be colorless or faintly yellow; a dark yellow color in¬ 
dicates old and inferior quality. The characteristics of this oil 
are the odor, its aromatic sweet taste, and especially the prop¬ 
erty of solidifying at a comparatively high temperature, 10- 
15 0 C. (50-59° F.), which is due to the separation of a stear- 
opten, anethol. Oil of anise is frequently adulterated with or 
replaced by oil of star-anise. The easy solidification of the 
oil of anise is not always proof of its good quality, for the oil 
from anise chaff, which congeals at a still higher temperature, 
is sometimes mixed with it, and this has a less fine odor than 
that distilled from the seed. One part by weight of oil of 
anise is soluble in an equal weight of alcohol of 94$. 

Oil of Bergamot 

has a pale yellow color which becomes greenish when the oil 
is kept in copper vessels, and a strong agreeable odor. This 


120 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


oil requires the greatest care in its preservation, as it abstracts 
oxygen from the air with extreme rapidity, when it changes 
its superior odor so that it can hardly be distinguished from 
oil of turpentine. 

Oil of Bitter Almond (Oleum Amygdale Amar^e), 

when pure, is a colorless, refractive liquid which is heavier 
than water. The vessels in which this product is preserved 
must be stoppered air-tight, for in the air the oil very quickly 
changes into a white, odorless mass of crystals consisting of 
benzoic acid. 

Oil of bitter almond is formed by the action of the amyg- 
dalin upon the emulsin present in the fruit, bitter-almond 
meal being deprived of fat and left in contact with water for 
some hours at from 40-45° C. (104-113° F. ). Besides oil of 
bitter almond, sugar and prussic acid are likewise formed. 
The crude oil distilled from the meal is freed from the prussic 
acid by agitation with ferrous chloride and lime-water, and 
redistillation. 

Oil of Cajeput (Oleum Cajuputi) 

1 

has usually a greenish color, and has a burning, camphora- 
ceous and at the same time cooling taste. It has a peculiar 
odor resembling that of camphor and rosemary. 

Oil of Calamus (Oleum Calami). 

This oil, which is very viscid and of a yellow or reddish 
color, must usually be mixed with other essential oils in order 
to furnish pleasant perfumes. 

Oil of Chamomile (Oleum Chamomill^:). 

Oil of chamomile, from Matricaria Chamomilla (common 
chamomile), which is specially characterized by its magnifi¬ 
cent dark-blue color, has a marked narcotic odor and is very 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


I 2 I 


high-priced, owing to the small yield of oil by the flowers. 
The oil from Anthemis nobilis (Roman chamomile) has also a 
blue color which gradually becomes greenish-yellow. 

Camphor (Camphora). 

This essential oil differs from the others mainly by being 
firm and crystalline at ordinary temperatures. Chinese or 
Japanese camphor melts at 175° C. (347° F.) and boils at 205° 
C. (401° F.). Camphor is seldom used alone, as its odor is 
hardly fragrant; but it finds frequent application in the pre¬ 
paration of mouth washes, toilet vinegars, etc. In commerce 
so-called Borneo camphor is also met with (though rarely), 
which closely resembles the Chinese in appearance and other 
qualities, but is more friable and melts at 189° C. (388.4° F.). 

Oil of Cascarilla 

is not used pure in perfumery, the bark being generally em¬ 
ployed instead. 

Oil of Cassia (Oleum Cassle) 

has a yellow color, gradually becoming dark reddish-brown, and 
an odor resembling that of oil of cinnamon, but the odor is not 
so fine, nor so strong, as that of the latter. The taste of the 
oil is of special importance: while that of true oil of cinna¬ 
mon is burning through sweet, oil of cassia has a sharper 
taste, and this taste is considered by some a good mark of 
recognition of the rather common adulteration of true oil of 
cinnamon which is much more costly. 

Oil of Cedar. 

This oil, obtained from the wood of the Juniperus virgin- 
iana (not from the true cedar, Cedrus Libani), is clear like 
water, has a pleasant odor, and differs from most essential oils 


122 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


by congealing at a very low temperature (— 22° C. or — 8° F.) 
and by its uncommon resinification in contact with air. 


Oil of Citron. 

Oil of citron is usually merely a synonym for “oil of 
lemon.” But in perfumery it has been customary to designate 
the oil of lemon which was extracted by the ecuelle process, 
as “ oil of citron-zeste ” or “ oil of citron,” while “ oil of lemon ” 
meant the distilled oil. Since there is no difficulty at the 
present time in obtaining all the hand-pressed oil that may be 
required, and of the finest quality, there is no longer any ne¬ 
cessity for making the before-mentioned distinction. 


Oil of Lemon (Oleum Limonis, Oleum Citri) 

is one of the most important essential oils for the perfumer 
as well as the manufacturer of liqueurs, confectioner, etc. The 
oil is pale yellow, and of a very strong refreshing odor which 
it loses rapidly in contact with the air, when it acquires a dis¬ 
agreeable odor of turpentine and gradually resinifies. This 
change is particularly marked under the influence of light. 
Its spec. grav. is 0.850 at 20° C. (68° F.). It is soluble in an 
equal volume of strong alcohol or glacial acetic acid. The 
hand-pressed oil has a much finer aroma than that obtained 
by distillation. 

* • > 

Oil of Citronella. 

This oil is hardly ever made in Europe, since it is im¬ 
ported in excellent quality and at low prices from India and 
especially the island of Ceylon. (See above, p. 29.) 


Oil of Lemon-Grass. 

This oil, which is imported in considerable quantities from 
India (chiefly Ceylon), is colorless and possesses a very pleas¬ 
ant odor of lemon which at the same time recalls that of roses 



PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 123 

and still more that of geranium, which is not rarely adulterated 
with it. (See above, p. 33.) 

Oil of Coriander (Oleum Coriandri) 

lias a pale yellow color and a burning, sharp, aromatic taste. 
Like oil of cubebs (oleum cubebse), oil of dill (oleum anethi), and 
oil of fennel (oleum fceniculi) which latter also has a rather 
low congealing point (—8° C. or -j-i y° F.), this oil is used less 
in perfumery than for scenting soap and in the manufacture of 
liqueurs. But it should be noted that these oils, as well as 
those of bergamot, caraway, star-anise, and some others, could 
well be employed for cheap perfumes and for scenting soap. 
Oil of dill also finds application alone in the preparation of 
some face washes, and the dried fennel herb in cheap sachets. 

Oil of Lilac 

can be made at slight cost from the flowers, as the raw ma¬ 
terial is obtainable without much trouble; it forms a yellow, 
strong-scented, oil. In perfumery, however, use is generally 
made only of the pomade made from the fresh flowers or the 
alcoholic extract prepared from it. Or else the odor is imi¬ 
tated by means of terpineol, which is now on the market 
under the name of lilacin. 

Oil of Geranium. 

It is necessary to distinugish clearly between oil of true 
geranium distilled in Southern France and Algiers from species 
of Pelargonium; and Turkish oil of geranium, also known as 
Palmarosa oil, oil of geranium grass, oil of Rusa grass, etc., 
which is distilled in India from ginger grass. (See above, p. 

33 -) 

The first-mentioned oil has a much finer aroma than the 
second. The two oils are frequently confounded, even in 
prominent works of reference. 


124 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

When oil of geranium or of rose geranium is directed to 
be used, the French (or Algerian, or Spanish) oil should be 
employed. These cost more than twice as much as the so- 
called Turkish or palmarosa oil. 

Oil of Heliotrope. 

-This oil which does not yet occur in commerce (we find 
merely the pomade and the alcoholic extract of the latter) 
has been made by the author experimentally; the most suit¬ 
able method was found to be extraction with petroleum ether. 
As the plant, Heliotropium peruvianum, the source of this de¬ 
lightful odor, is frequently cultivated in our gardens, the pre¬ 
paration of the oil by this method is to be recommended, 
being less expensive and more rapid than by the use of fat, 
while the product obtained with petroleum ether is as fine as 
that extracted by alcohol from the pomade. 

Oil of Elder (Oleum Sambuci). 

The remark made under the head of oil of lilac applies 
equally to this oil. For the benefit of those who wish to make 
this oil in its pure form we may add that it is absolutely nec¬ 
essary to select only the freshest flowers, otherwise the odor 
will be very much impaired. 

Oil of Jasmine, 

not to be confounded with the oil of Syringa or German jas¬ 
mine (Philadelphus coronarius), is colorless or yellowish and 
has a very strong, almost narcotic odor. It is one of the 
most valuable and at the same time most expensive aromatic 
substances employed in perfumery. Genuine oil of jasmine 
can be obtained only from Southern France at very high 
prices. What is usually sold as “oil of jasmine ” is a fixed oil 
impregnated with the aroma of jasmine. 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


125 


Oil of Cherry-Laurel 

is not used as such in perfumery; at most cherry-laurel water 
may be employed. But as this has the odor of oil of bitter 
almond and as the presence of some prussic acid, on account 
of which the officinal cherry-laurel water is used, is of no value 
to the perfumer and is, in fact, undesirable, owing to its 
poisonous quality, we substitute in all cases a corresponding 
quantity of oil of bitter almond for cherry-laurel water. 

Oil of Culilaban (Oleum Culilavani) 

is light brown, somewhat viscid; the odor recalls that of the 
oils of cinnamon, sassafras, and clove. It has been used for 
scenting soap. 

Oil of Caraway (Oleum Cari) 

is light yellow and has an aromatic odor and burning taste. 
In perfumery it is used only for very cheap odors and for 
scenting soap; it finds its chief application in the manufac¬ 
ture of liqueurs. 

Oil of Lavender (Oleum Lavandulae). 

This oil is of great importance to the perfumer and is im¬ 
ported in unsurpassed quality from England (Mitcham); it is 
light yellow, has a burning sharp taste, and is exceedingly sen¬ 
sitive to light and air, under the action of which it loses its 
refreshing odor in a very brief time and acquires a common 
smell recalling that of turpentine. 

The buyer of this oil should take care to secure the true oil 
of lavender (from Lavandula vera); for the oil of spike-laven¬ 
der is sold under the same name. This, prepared from Lavan¬ 
dula Spica, has a similar odor to the genuine, but cannot be 
compared with it in delicacy. For this reason, too, the differ¬ 
ence in the price between the two is considerable. True 


126 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

English oil of lavender costs ten times as much as oil of spike- 
lavender. The English brand of the true oil is of so excellent 
a quality that it brings four or five times as much as the best 
French oil, which is sold under the name of huile de lavande 
des Alpes. Yet during the last decade or so the French oil 
of lavender flowers has become so much improved in quality 
that it has. become a serious rival to the Mitcham oil. 

Oil of Wallflower, 

made from the flowers of the well-known garden plant, and 

Oil of Lily 

likewise from the ornamental plant, are, strange to say, not 
manufactured in any place, to our knowledge. Experiments 
made by us in this direction prove that the odors of these 
plants can be obtained either by absorption or, more readily, 
by extraction. The perfumes thus far occurring under these 
names are always combinations of different scents which, 
though pleasant, have but little in common with the plants 
whose names they bear. 

In this connection we may say that the perfumes sold under 
the names of various flowers often have no relation to them, 
but are mixtures of various odors. While it cannot be denied 
that perfumes may be made in this manner which resemble 
those of the respective plants, it is unquestionably an imper¬ 
fection in the art of perfumery that these odors are not really 
made from the flowers mentioned. - To give another char¬ 
acteristic instance, we may add that the delightful odor of the 
well-known lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis)—a plant 
which grows wild abundantly in many of our forests—has not 

yet been produced, and that even imitations of this odor, 

• 

which in delicacy and fragrance stands next to those of the 
rose and violet, are seldom met with in commerce. 



PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


127 


Oil of Lemon (Oleum Limonis), 

obtained from the fruits of the lemon-tree, is one of the most 
important products, both statistically and economically, of 
the Citrus family. In German works there is often a confu¬ 
sion between “ oil of citron ” and “ oil of lemon,” it being sup¬ 
posed by the authors that the “ Citronen-ol ” is derived from 
the citron (Citrus medica), and the “ Limonen-ol ” from the 
lemon (Citrus Limonum). There is, indeed, some oil mad^ 
occasionally, from the citron, but it does not figure in price¬ 
lists. The oil of the lemon, on the other hand, is very com¬ 
monly called “ Citronen-ol,” and the fruit itself “ Citrone.” 
Hence, when “ Citrcnen-ol ” is quoted in a formula, it may be 
assumed at once that oil of lemon is intended. It is very 
liable to resinify, when it loses its fragrance. 

Oil of Sweet Bay (Laurel) (Oleum Lauri) 

is green, and usually mixed with the fixed oil of the same 
plant. It finds more frequent application in the manufacture 
of liqueurs than in perfumery; but as it has a pleasant odor 
it might well be used for cheap perfumes. But in that event 

m 

it must be freed from the fixed oil by distillation. 

Oil of Magnolia, 

likewise, has not yet been prepared as such. The remarks 
made above under the head of oils of lily and wallflower apply 
also to this odor. The so-called magnolia perfumes are mix¬ 
tures of different odors. 

Oil of Marjoram (Oleum Majoran^e) 

Oil of marjoram, which is obtained by distillation from the 
dried herb, has a strong aromatic odor. It is mentioned as 
having often been used in perfumery for scenting soap instead 
of oil of thyme, whose odor, moreover, is very similar to that 


128 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

J 

of marjoram, but this is a mistake, due to the fact that ordi¬ 
nary oil of thyme has long been sold under the name of oil of 
origanum. True oil of marjoram costs about twelve dollars 
a pound, while oil of tyme (so-called oil of origanum) is worth 
only about eighty cents. It is rarely employed for volatile 
perfumes. 

v Oil of Melissa. 

The oil of Melissa officinalis, owing to the very small yield, 
is quite expensive. It is used only for the preparation of 
some perfumes which owe their peculiar qualities to this strong 
odor. This oil must not be confounded with the spurious oil 
of melissa, also called oil of citron-melissa, which is identical 

with oil of lemon grass (see page 30). 

\ 

Oils of Mint. 

Although all the mints possess an agreeable odor, only three 
varieties find extensive application. There are the oils from 
Mentha piperita, peppermint; Mentha viridis, spearmint; and 
Mentha crispa, crispmint. The oils of English manufacture are 
highly esteemed, but the United States also produces them of 
excellent quality. At one time the cultivation of mints, parti¬ 
cularly peppermint, was greatly extended, with the expectation 
of deriving satisfactory profit from the enterprise. It has, how¬ 
ever, been conclusively shown that the market cannot absorb 
more than a certain quantity of these products; and that any 
over-production brings loss and disappointment to the in¬ 
vestor. Beside the three kinds of mint above mentioned, 
there is another species, Mentha arvensis, a native of Japan, 
which is extensively cultivated there, and is the chief source 
of the menthol of commerce, so well known as an efficient 

s 

remedy for neuralgia, migraine, etc., in form of menthol cones. 
The three varieties of the mint oils previously mentioned are 
distinguished, aside from their pleasant odor, by the property 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 129 

of leaving a very refreshing and cooling taste in the mouth, 
and for this reason they form the most important constituent 
of all fine mouth washes. 

True oil of peppermint, Oleum Menthae piperitae, when pure 
is colorless, very mobile, of a burning sharp taste which is fol¬ 
lowed by a peculiar coolness. The commercial product is 
usually pale green. Oil of crispmint, Oleum Menthae crispae, 
which in Europe is often sold to novices as oil of peppermint, 
has always a more or less yellow color and resembles the oil of 
peppermint in its properties, but it is less fine and cheaper. 
The same is true of the oil of spearmint, but this has a very 
characteristic odor and taste, distinctly different from pepper¬ 
mint. 

As above stated, the oils of mint are extensively used for 
mouth washes, also for scenting soap, in liqueurs and pastils, 
but rarely in handkerchief perfumes. 

Oils of Mace and Nutmeg (Oleum Macidis and Oleum 

Myristioe). 

These oils are prepared either from the seed coat (Oleum 
Macidis) or the nutmeg itself (Oleum Myristicae). Oil of 
mace generally has a yellowish-red color in tint varying from 
dark to light and even colorless. Its taste is agreeable and 
mild and the odor exceedingly strong. Like oil of nutmeg, 
it is extensively used in the manfuacture of liqueurs and for 
scenting soap. The oil prepared by distillation from the nut¬ 
meg is, when fresh, almost colorless or at most faintly yellow, 
of a burning sharp taste, and an aromatic odor. Like oil of 
mace, it is used in the manufacture of liqueurs and soaps and 
also in many perfumes. 

In India a third valuable product is obtained from the 
nutmeg by expression of the ripe fruits and is called nut¬ 
meg butter. This is bright yellow and consists of a true fat 
and an essential oil. Its odor is very pleasant and a very 
9 


130 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


superior soap can be made by saponification of this valuable 
product with soda lye. 

Oil of Myrtle. 

This oil is of a greenish color and very mobile, but it is not 
a commercial product; the manufacturer must prepare the oil 
himself from the leaves, though the yield is small. The arti¬ 
cles sold as so-called essence of myrtle are always mixtures 
of different odors. Southern France, however, exports at high 
prices a myrtle water (eau des anges) which is really made by 
distillation of the leaves with water. 

Oil of Narcissus. 

As to the odor to which this flower owes its fragrance we 
may repeat what we have said just now with reference to the 
oil of myrtle: we have never succeeded in obtaining this oil 
in commerce. The so-called essence of narcissus, though a 
very pleasant mixture, contains no trace of the true oil. As to 

Oil of Pink, 

the same remark applies: the compositions sold under the 
name of essence d’oeillet, however, have a very striking odor 
of pink. 

Oil of Clove (Oleum Caryophylli). 

This oil when fresh is colorless, but soon becomes yellow¬ 
ish or brown. It is heavier than water in which it sinks and 

4 

is characterized by an exceedingly strong burning taste and 
a spicy odor. It remains at least partly fluid at a very low 
temperature, namely, — 20° C. (—4° I 7 .). 

Oil of Orange Flowers (Oleum Naph^e, Oleum 

Neroli), 

commercially known also under the French names huile de 
fleurs d’oranges, huile neroli, huile neroli petale, is obtained 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 131 

from the flowers of the orange-tree in Southern France, where 
the orange is specially planted for this purpose. The odor of 
the oil varies with the mode of its preparation; that obtained 
by distillation with water has a different odor from that made 
by maceration with fat and extraction with alcohol. The latter 
variety of oil as such, however, is not found in commerce, the 
alcoholic extract entering at once into the composition of the 
perfumes. 

The French manufacturers of this oil, which is of great im¬ 
portance in perfumery, distinguish several varieties. The 
most valuable is the oil from the flowers of Citrus vulgaris (or 
Citrus Bigaradia), the true bitter orange (or Seville orange) tree. 
This is the so-called neroli bigarade. That called neroli petale 
is obtained from the same flowers carefully deprived of their 
floral envelopes, so that only the petals are subjected to dis¬ 
tillation. Much cheaper than these two is the oil of petit 
grain which is distilled from the leaves and sometimes also 
unripe fruits of various trees of the Citrus order. 

All these oils are among the most delicate; when fresh 
they are colorless and have a peculiar bitter taste ; exposed to 
light and air they assume a reddish tint and undergo rapid 
resinification. They should, therefore, be preserved in par¬ 
ticularly well-closed vessels in a dark, cool place. 

Not to be confounded with these oils is the 

Oil of Orange, 

of which there are two kinds, one from the bitter orange, known 
also as Oil of Orange, Bigarade, and the other from the sweet 
orange, also known as Oil of Portugal. Both are extracted 
from the peel of the fruit by mechanical means. Both oils of 
orange peel are golden yellow, and have a pleasant, refreshing 
odor recalling that of the fruit. They find application for 
scenting soap, in toilet waters, and in some true perfumes. 
When oil of orange or oil of orange peel is mentioned in any 


132 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


formula, without further specification, the oil of bitter orange 
peel should be used. 

Oil of Patchouly. 

This oil, which might be manufactured with advantage in 
India, the home of the plant, is, strange to say, not imported 
from that country, but is distilled in Europe from the dried 
herb. Fresh oil of patchouly is brown in color, very viscid, 
almost like balsam, and surpasses all other essential oils in the 
intensity of its odor. Owing to the strong odor, pure oil of 
patchouly must really be called ill-smelling; only when highly 
diluted does the odor become pleasant, and then forms a 
useful ingredient of many perfumes as the fundamental odor 
in the harmony. 

\ > 

Oil of Syringa. 

Oil of false jasmine, from the flowers of Philadelphus coro- 
narius, is not made as such; in Southern France, however, the 
flowers are frequently used for the preparation of a cheap 
pomade known commercially as orange-flower pomade. A 
personal experiment made with the view to obtain the pure 
odor by extraction of the flowers with petroleum ether has 
shown that this plant is suitable for making very fine prepara¬ 
tions, both handkerchief perfumes and pomades. 

Oil of Allspice, 

of a burning sharp taste and odor, is colorless, but is hardly 
ever used for the purposes of the perfumer—at most for soaps 
—but all the more frequently in the manufacture of liqueurs, 
and particularly also in that of artificial bay-rum. 

Oil of Sweet Pea 

has not been made thus far, though there is no doubt that 
this perfume, too, can be prepared p-ure from the alcoholic 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


133 

extract of the pomade. The properties of the oil should re¬ 
semble those of the finest neroli petale. 

Oil of Rue (Oleum Rut,e). 

This oil, obtained by distillation of the herb, is colorless or 
pale yellow, of a very strong, penetrating odor; it is used in 
some washes, but more particuarly as an ingredient in the 
manufacture of artificial cognac, for which purpose the plant 
is specially cultivated in France. 

Oil of Reseda (Mignonette). 

The delightful odor of this plant which formerly could 
only be fixed by maceration in fat may be readily prepared 
by extraction with petroleum ether. Yet special precautions 
should be taken that nothing but portions of the flowers, care¬ 
fully picked off, and no green leaves are extracted. The oil 
thus obtained has a yellow color and a disagreeable odor which 
changes into the well-known pleasant smell of the flower when 
highly diluted with alcohol. 

Oil of Rose (Oleum Ros.<e), 

also known as attar or otto of rose. The various species of 
roses give different odors. The commercial Turkish, Persian, 
and Indian oils of rose (which latter is never exported)—which, 
by the way, are very generally adulterated even at their point 
of production—are derived mainly from Rosa damascena, and 
■when highly diluted yield the pleasant odor of our ordinary 
garden roses. The rose oils having the odor of the moss rose, 
tea rose, or dog rose are made almost exclusively in France 
and in commerce do not appear pure but generally in the 
form of pomades or alcoholic solutions known as essences de 
roses. 

True rose oil is yellowish or yellow, or else greenish, and 
varying from liquid almost to the consistence of butter. Be- 


134 


PERFUMES AND TPIEIR PREPARATION. 


tween these extremes there are all possible gradations. A 
comparatively very high congealing-point is a characteristic 
of oil of rose. It becomes almost solid at 14 to 20° C. (57 to 
68° F.). The portion separated during solidification is color¬ 
less, markedly crystalline, and, strange to say, almost odor¬ 
less. Pure oil of rose smells disagreeably narcotic, only the 
very dilute solution shows the incomparable fragrance. 

Much superior to the oils of rose which are prepared from 
rose leaves (either fresh or salted) are those obtained by 
maceration or extraction with petroleum ether. Those per¬ 
fumes sold under the name of various species of rose, such 
as moss rose, etc., are combinations of rose oil with other 
aromatics. 

Oil of Rhodium. 

This bright yellow light oil is obtained by distillation of 
the wood of Convolvulus Scoparius. At times this oil is scarce 
in commerce. It has a faint but decided odor of rose. 

Oil of Rosemary (Oleum Rosmarini). 

This oil is obtained by distillation from the herb of the 
rosemary plant as a thin, pale green fluid with an aromatic 
odor and spicy taste. It is used as an ingredient in some old 
renowned handkerchief perfumes—for instance, Cologne water 
—also for flavoring soaps and liqueurs. 

Oil of Sage (Oleum Salvle), 

from the flowers of Salvia officinalis, is yellowish, with an 
odor somewhat similar to that of oil of peppermint, but far 
less intense. Like the latter it imparts a pleasant coolness 
to the mouth and hence is used in some mouth washes. 

Oil of Santal (Oleum Santali). 

The oil of santal wood (also called sandal-wood oil) has a 
thick, honey-like consistence and an agreeable, rose-like odor. 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 135 

Formerly it was sometimes used for the adulteration of oil of 
rose, but can also very well be used alone for several per¬ 
fumes and fumigating preparations. 

Oil of Sassafras (Oleum Sassafras) 

is yellow, spicy, with a burning odor and taste; in the cold 
it crystallizes only in part. The odor of this oil recalls that 
of fennel. The purest form of it, or rather substitute for it, 
is safrol, its main constituent, which is, however, now ex¬ 
tracted more economically from crude oil of camphor, in 
which it likewise forms an ingredient. 

Oil of Meadowsweet (Oleum Spir^fle). 

Several species of Spiraea, and especially Spiraea ulmaria, 
furnish very pleasant odors. This oil consists mainly of salicy¬ 
lic aldehyde. 

Despite its pleasant odor and the facility of its production, 
this substance has thus far found little application in per¬ 
fumery. The natural oil of meadowsweet, owing to its ex¬ 
tremely high price, can hardly ever be used. 

Oil of Star-Anise (Oleum Anisi Stellati; Oleum 

Illicii) 

resembles in its properties the oil of anise, even in its odor; 
but all connoisseurs agree that the odor of the oil of star-anise 
far surpasses that of the oil of anise, hence the former is used 
especially for fine perfumes. This preference, however, does 
not extend to all preparations. For certain liqueurs, such as 
anisette, the oil obtained from common anise (Saxon anise) is 
usually preferred. Many also regard the odor of star-anise as 
inferior to that of fine European anise. 

Oils of Thyme (Oleum Thymi). 

The essential oils of thyme (chiefly Thymus vulgaris) and 
some related plants are very frequently used for scenting 


136 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


cheap soaps. The oils of these plants are light yellow, and 
so similar in odor that it is not possible to distinguish them 
except by direct comparison. 

Oil of Vanilla, 

or, more correctly, vanilla camphor, the true odorous constit¬ 
uent of vanilla, also called vanillin, is a crystalline substance 
with a delightful odor, melting at 76° C. (169° F.). This is 
now extensively made artificially from the cambium sap of 
•pines,' the coniferin being converted by chemical processes 
into vanillin. One ounce of good vanillin is equivalent to 
about forty ounces of best Mexican vanilla beans. 

Oil of Violet 

has thus far been produced in but very small quantities from 
the alcoholic extract of the true violet pomade; it has a 
greenish color and when pure a narcotic odor not to be recog¬ 
nized as that of the flower. The pleasant odor of violets 
manifests itself only in extreme dilution. 

Oil of Verbena 

is yellow, with a very pleasant odor of lemons. Its price being 
quite high, it is usually adulterated with oil of lemon-grass, or 
else the latter is sold under the name of oil of verbena (see p. 
30). In fact the odors of the two oils are so similar that they 
are easily confounded. 

Oil of Vetiver (Oleum Ivarancpius^e), 

from Andropogon muricatus (see p. 30), is viscid, reddish- 
brown, with a very strong and lasting odor. 

Oil of Wintergreen (Oleum Gaultherde). 

This product is obtained by distillation from the leaves and 
twigs of Gaultheria procumbens or else by distilling the bark 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


137 

or leaves of Betula lenta with water, in which case the oil is 
generated by the action of the water, as it does not pre-exist in 
the birch, and, moreover, in this case the oil consists of nothing 
but methyl salicylate. It differs, like oil of meadowsweet, 
very markedly from the other aromatic substances and mainly 
consists of a so-called compound ether. It is a salicylate of 
methyl, boils at 220° C. (428° F.),, is much heavier than water 
(specific gravity 1.173 to 1.184), and dissolves readily in alcohol 
and other solvents. It is used chiefly for scenting soap; the 
perfumes sold as wintergreen are usually mixtures of different 
substances which contain no oil of wintergreen. 

Oil of Ylang-Ylang (Oleum Unon,e odoratissim^e) 

is imported from Manilla. It is colorless or yellowish, and 
has a most delightful characteristic odor, which is rather fugi¬ 
tive if not made resistant by other substances. It forms an 
important constituent of several of the most favorite and ex¬ 
pensive essences. 

Oil of Hyssop (Oleum Hyssopi) 

is colorless, but rapidly becomes yellow in the air. It is used 
in some very cheap perfumes and in the manufacture of 
liqueurs. 

Oils of Cinnamon (Oleum Cinnamomi). 

Commercially we find chiefly three varieties of essential 
oils which are designated as: oil of Ceylon cinnamon, oil 
of Chinese cinnamon or oil of cassia, and oil of cinnamon 
leaves. Oil of Ceylon cinnamon, sometimes called “true oil 
of cinnamon,” made from the bark of the twigs of the cinna¬ 
mon laurel and formerly imported mainly from Ceylon but 
now distilled in large amounts in Germany from imported 
cinnamon “ chips,” is rather viscid, golden yellow to reddish- 
brown in color, of a burning though sweet taste. In the air it 


138 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

gradually absorbs oxgyen, when it becomes dark red, thicker, 
and of weaker flavor. Oil of Ceylon cinnamon, which should 
always be used in perfumes or liqueurs when simply “ oil of 
cinnamon ” is directed, has a specific gravity of 1.030 to 1.035 
at 15 0 C. (59 0 F.) and boils at about 240° C. (464° F.). Its 
chief constituent upon which its aroma depends is cinnamyl 
aldehyde. 

Oil of Chinese cinnamon, or oil of cassia, has for a very 
long time, up to within a few years, always reached the mar¬ 
ket in a more or less adulterated state, a regular practice of 
the Chinese exporters being to dissolve ordinary resin in it 
(claiming afterward that the “ resin ” was caused by the oxida¬ 
tion of the oil through age) and often also to add petroleum 
to it. These frauds have been well shown up by Schimmel 
& Co., of Leipsic; and in consequence thereof, the quality of 
oil of cassia exported from China has been greatly improved. 
Oil of cassia when pure has a specific gravity of 1.060 to 
1.065, aR d should contain not less than seventy-five percent of 
cinnamyl aldehyde. 

Oil of cinnamon leaves is an inferior product, often used 
for adulterating oil of Ceylon cinnamon. It does not deserve 
notice by the perfumer. 

As an appendix we may add in this connection a descrip¬ 
tion of the 

Oil of Turpentine (Oleum Terebinthina^), 

because it must be called an important substance to know 
for the perfumer, inasmuch as it is very frequently used for 
the adulteration of different essential oils. Oil of turpentine, 
which is obtained from incisions into the bark of different 
fir and pine trees, the exuding resin being distilled with 
water, comes into commerce from various sources. Dif¬ 
ferent sorts are distinguished, but to the perfumer only the 
rectified oil of turpentine, oleum terebinthinm rectificatum , is 






PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


! 39 


important. Oil of turpentine has a yellowish color and a 
decidedly disagreeable, resinous, and burnt taste. By repeated 
distillation, especially over quicklime or chloride of lime 
(bleaching powder), it is finally obtained as a colorless, very 
refractive liquid with a density of 0.855 to 0.870 and a boiling- 
point at 160 0 C. (320° F.). Its odor is peculiar, but not easily 
distinguished from that of old essential oils, such as oils of 
caraway, anise, etc. One peculiarity of oil of turpentine is 
that its odor is easily masked by that of other essential oils, 
so that, for instance, a comparatively large quantity of oil of 
turpentine needs the addition of but little oil of anise to im¬ 
part to the entire mixture a rather pronounced odor of anise. 
This peculiarity has led to the frequent employment of recti¬ 
fied oil of turpentine for the adulteration of other essential 
oils. 


CHAPTER IX. 

THE ADULTERATIONS OF ESSENTIAL OILS AND 

THEIR RECOGNITION. 

We find it necessary to devote a special chapter to the 
adulterations of the commercial essential oils because an ex¬ 
perience of many years has shown us that hardly any other 
group of products is subject to so many sophistications as 
essential oils. The high price of most aromatic substances 
and the difficulty of recognizing the adulteration furnish an 
inviting field to the unscrupulous manufacturer. In the best 
interest of the perfumer, therefore, we advise the purchase of 
essential oils only from renowned reliable houses, even at 
higher prices, for the cheap commercial products are almost 
worthless, since they are almost without exception adulter¬ 
ated. 



140 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

The adulterations are very manifold. Some expensive oils 
are mixed with cheaper ones having a similar odor—for in¬ 
stance, oil of rose with oil of geranium or oil of geranium 
grass; oil of orange flowers with the oil from Philadelphus 
coronarius ; oil of verbena with oil of lemon grass; oils of cara¬ 
way, anise, and fennel with oil of turpentine ; oil of cinnamon 
with oil of cassia, etc. Besides these, other deceptions are 
practised—for instance, oil of anise is mixed with oil of tur¬ 
pentine and in order to make the mixture congeal readily 
(which is the characteristic of true oil of anise, as above 
stated) paraffin or spermaceti is added. A similar practice 
prevails with adulterated oil of rose and other viscid oils. Oil 
of bitter almond we have found adulterated with or entirely 
replaced by nitrobenzol, etc. 

The demonstration of the adulteration of an essential oil 
by chemical means offers many difficulties. We devote par¬ 
ticular attention to the physical characteristics, for experience 
has shown us that the olfactory organ—provided it is very 
expert—is often able to determine the genuineness of any aro¬ 
matic substance when other tests have given only uncertain 
results, or can give certain results only in the hands of ex¬ 
perts. To make this test, however, quite reliable, it is nec¬ 
essary to be familiar with the substances in their pure unadul¬ 
terated condition. 

The manufacturer of perfumery, therefore, should spare 
neither trouble nor pecuniary sacrifices to obtain possession 
of absolutely genuine specimens of those essential oils, even in 
minute quantities, which he intends to employ. Such sam¬ 
ples should be carefully preserved (protected from heat, 
evaporation, daylight, etc.) for the purpose of immediate com¬ 
parison with the oils to be purchased. 

As above stated, the physical properties of the essential 
oils usually furnish the means of recognizing their purity, and 
these give more reliable results to the practical perfumer than 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 14I 

the chemical tests. The most valuable points are furnished 
by the boiling-point, the congealing-point, and the density of 
the oils. The following table gives the boiling and congealing 
points of the most important essential oils in degrees of the 
centigrade thermometer, together with the density (or specific 
gravity); where two figures are given, they indicate the ex¬ 
treme limits found in genuine samples. 

Special characteristics of some essential oils with reference 
to their action at low temperatures or their melting-point are 
given in the column “ Remarks.” 

Oil of turpentine, paraffin, wax, and spermaceti being fre¬ 
quently used for the adulteration of essential oils, have been 
included in the table. 

If accurate results are aimed at in the examination of an 
essential oil according to this table, the specific gravity should 
be determined by means of a scale sensitive to one one-thou¬ 
sandth gram, and the thermometer should be graduated to the 
tenth of a degree. 


Table Showing the Approximate Density, Boiling and Con¬ 
gealing Points of the most Important Essential Oils 
Used in Perfumery. 


Essential Oil of 


Absinth. 

Anise. 

Bergamot. 

Bitter almond. 

Do., art. (nitrobenzol).. 

Cajuput. 

Calamus. 

Camomile . 

Camphor (Borneo). 

(Chinese). 

Caraway. 

Cassia. 

Cedar wood. 

Cinnamon. 

“ leaf. 

Clove. 

Coriander. 


Density. 

Boiling- 
Point, 
Deg. C. 

Congealing- 
Point, 
Deg. C. 

O.895 



O.980 


+ IO-I 5 

O.850-O.89O 

188 

-24 

I.040 

l8o 


1.866 

213 

+ 3 

0.880 

• • • • • 


0.962 



0.924 

160-210 


• • • . • 

212 


0.985 

205 


0.960 

195 


1.060 

252-255 


* • • • • 

264 

— 22 

1.030-1.03 5 

24O 

below—25 

1-053 



1.034-1.055 

248 

below 20 

O 

OO 

M 

150-200 



Remarks. 


Melts at 198 
Melts at 175 


Forms crystals —16 
















































142 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Essential Oil of 


Crispmint. 

Cubeb . 

Fennel. 

Gaultheria. 

Geranium. 

Hyssop. 

Juniper. 

Lavender. 

Spike-lavender. 

Lemon. 

grass.. . . 

Limetta. 

Mace . 

Marjoram. 

M elissa. 

Neroli. 

N utmeg. 

“ butter. 

Olibanum. 

Orange, bitter. 

sweet. 

Parsley. 

Patchouly. 

Peppermint. 

Portugal (orange peel). . . 

Rose. 

Rosemary. 

Rue. 

Sage. 

Santal. 

Sassafras . 

Serpyllum. 

Star-anise. 

Thyme. 

Vanilla. 

Vetiver. 

Wintergreen. 

Ylang-ylang. 


Turpentine 
Paraffin .. 

Wax. 

Spermaceti 



Boiling- 

Congealing- 

Density. 

Point, 

Point, 

Deg. C. 

Deg. C. 

0.978 

0.880 



O.960-O.980 


+8 

I-I 73 

224 


O.895 

216-220 


O.889 

O.870 

O.870-O.940 

186-192 

• • • • 


I40 


O.85O-O.87O 

177-250 


O.870-O.898 

220 

—22 

O.93I 



O.89O-O.950 

■ • • . • 


O.89O-O.920 

163 


0.855 

0.S89-0.889 

175 


0.S80-0.948 

172 


.... 

162 

3 i 

0.830-0.860 

176 


0.840-0.850 
1.015 

0.950-1.012 

176 

282-294 

• ' • • • 


0.902-0.930 

188-212 


0.840-0.850 

176 


0.S32 

229 

-f-14-20 

0.895-0.916 

0.911 

0.902 

185 




0.950-0.980 

288 

— 22 

1.0S2 



0.890-0.920 





0.982 

170-180 

150 


0.870-0.940 

76 


1.007 

1.180 

286 


220 


0.980 

l6o 


0.855-0.870 

0.870 

0.960-0.970 

0-943 









Remarks. 


Forms crystals— 16 


Forms crystals —16 


Melts at 50-65 
Melts at 65-70 
Melts at 45-50 


In buying essential oils, except it be from a house whose 
reputation is a guaranty of their genuineness, it is to the inter¬ 
est of the perfumer to make a test. He must look for certain 
substances which are generally used for the sophistication of 
essential oils. These are: A. Other essential oils; B. Fixed 
oils; C. Alcohol; D. Paraffin, spermaceti, wax. 





















































































































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 143 

A. Adulteration of Essential Oils with Other 

Essential Oils. 

This mode of adulteration, which is frequent, is naturally 
the one most difficult of demonstration. In the case of cheap 
oils such as those of caraway, lemon, orange peel, etc., recti¬ 
fied oil of turpentine is almost without exception the adul¬ 
terant. The methods usually recommended, such as attempt¬ 
ing to dissolve out the oil of turpentine by strong alcohol, 
hoping thus to separate it from the essential oil, are without 
practical value. 

The adulteration can, however, often be demonstrated by 
rubbing a drop of the suspected oil on a glass plate and test¬ 
ing the odor, provided the olfactory organ is trained. As 
the above table shows, the oils have different high boiling- 
points, while oil of turpentine boils at a rather low tempera¬ 
ture, hence it evaporates sooner than the others and can be 
demonstrated by its odor. 

The demonstration of an adulteration with an essential 
oil is most certain by so-called fractional distillation. Some 
of the oil to be examined (about four to six fluidrachms) is 
placed in a small retort with condenser and heated to a tem¬ 
perature a few degrees below the boiling-point of the oil in 
question. If, for instance, oil of bergamot adulterated with 
oil of turpentine is to be tested, it is heated carefully to 
nearly 188 0 C. (370° F.), the boiling-point of the oil of ber¬ 
gamot; the oil of turpentine which boils at 160° C. (320° F.) 
passes over completely, while the oil of bergamot remains in 
the retort. 

Fractional distillation is also the most reliable way of de¬ 
monstrating an adulteration with a fixed oil or with paraffin, 
wax, or spermaceti. An adulteration of oil of lavender with 
oil of spike-lavender, which is otherwise barely recognizable, 
is positively shown by this method; even oil of geranium in 


144 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


oil of rose, oil of cassia in oil of cinnamon, etc., may be thus 
demonstrated. 

B. Adulteration of Essential Oils with Fixed Oils. 

An addition of fixed oils can be easily demonstrated by 
agitation of the oil with strong alcohol in which the essential 
oil dissolves, while the fixed oil remains unchanged. Castor 
oil, however, is likewise soluble in alcohol and for this reason 
is frequently used for the adulteration of essential oils. Yet 
the presence of a fixed oil can also be shown in a very simple 
manner by placing a drop of the suspected oil upon white 
paper and leaving it for some hours in a warm spot. If the 
oil was pure, the translucent stain on the paper will disappear 
completely (also when the oil was adulterated with turpen¬ 
tine); but if it was mixed with a fixed oil, the stain will remain 
permanently and cannot be removed from the paper even by 
strong heat. 


C. Adulteration with Alcohol. 

This frequent adulteration is demonstrated either by frac¬ 
tional distillation, when the alcohol passes over first between 

yo° and 8o° C. (158° and 176° F.), or by the use of 

* 

the vessel illustrated in Fig. 31, which is divided 
into 100 equal parts. 

The vessel is filled to the tenth division with 
the oil to be tested, and water is added to bring 
the volume to the 50 mark. If alcohol is present, 
it is taken up by the water so that the volume of 
oil appears to diminish. If the oil reaches to the 
mark 7, it contained three volumes of alcohol, or 
in other words it was mixed with thirty per cent 
of alcohol. It is true, essential oils likewise dis¬ 
solve somewhat in water, but in such minute quantities as not 
to affect the success of the test. 









PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


145 


D. Adulteration with Paraffin, Spermaceti, or Wax 

This mode of adulteration is practised mainly with viscid 
oils which congeal at rather high temperatures, such as oils of 
anise, rose, etc., the essential oils being usually mixed at the 
same time with oil of turpentine or paraffin. The fraud is 
easily detected by fractional distillation. 

Oil of bitter almonds is often adulterated with oil of mir- 
bane; this can be demonstrated by shaking 1 volume of the 
oil with 17 volumes of alcohol of 45$, and setting the mixture 
aside to settle. The nitrobenzol (oil of mirbane) will then 
collect at the bottom. Oil of Rose may be tested as follows: 
Mix the oil with an equal quantity of concentrated sulphuric 
acid. Neither the color nor the odor of the oil should be 
changed, but if oil of geranium was present a disagreeable 
odor and a darker color is produced. 

It has been proposed, too, to test the oils by heating with 
iodine or nitric acid and determining the purity by the re¬ 
action ; but the results with the different oils are so similar 
that the test is almost worthless. We have had the same ex¬ 
perience with the test by nitro-prusside of copper which on 
being heated with essential oils gives colored precipitates dif¬ 
fering with various oils, but still so similar that they cannot 
be relied upon. We have found in all cases that a comparison 
of an oil with a sample of known purity is the best, or else 

the tests given in the preceding pages. 

10 


146 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


CHAPTER X. 

THE ESSENCES OR EXTRACTS EMPLOYED IN 

PERFUMERY. 

The term essence or extract in perfumery means a solution 
of an aromatic substance in strong alcohol. These solutions 
are generally made as concentrated as possible and in this 
form find application in the manufacture of handkerchief per¬ 
fumes and of certain odors bearing a special name. The so- 
called extrait d’ceillet, extract of pink, or the favorite per¬ 
fumes known as new-mown hay have nothing in common with 
either pink or hay except the name; like many other odors, 
both are merely mixtures of different essences or extracts. 

Besides the manufacture of true perfumes, essences or ex¬ 
tracts are also used for scenting fine soaps, sachets, mouth 
washes, etc. For the latter, too, use is often made of the so- 
called aromatic waters (eaux aromatisees) which are obtained 
as a by-product in the distillation of fragrant plants, and have a 
very fine odor owing to the small amount of the aromatic 
substance they hold in solution. To this class belong orange- 
flower water (Aqua Naphm triplex, eau de fleurs d’oranges), 
peppermint water (Aqua Menthae, eau de menthe), and many 
others. 

Essences or extracts can be made in two ways: in the 
case of aromatic substances which are obtainable in the pure 
state—that is, essential oils—by dissolving them in strong 
alcohol in definite proportions; in the case of aromatics com¬ 
bined with a fatty substance by one of the processes described 
above, by treating the pomade (lard, or other perfectly bland, 
sweet, and in itself odorless fat combined with the aromatic") 

j 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 147 

or huile antique (fixed oil holding the aromatic substance in 
solution) with the strongest alcohol. 

According to the action of the alcohol upon the pomade 
or huile antique at ordinary or higher temperature, the pro¬ 
cess is called cold or warm infusion. Cold infusion furnishes 
the odor in a much more delicate and superior form than the 
warm. The cold infusion requires for complete solution of 
the aromatic four to six weeks; the warm, ten to fourteen 
days. Although the former consumes a much longer time, it 
is to be preferred, as the heat injures the odor. Pomades or 
huiles antiques are never completely exhausted by a single 
treatment with alcohol. Even when heat is employed they 
always retain a portion of the aromatic with great tenacity; 
a second and third infusion still abstracts odor from them, 
and finally nothing remains but pure fat with a pleasant odor 
which is stained and sold commercially as pomade under the 
name of the respective odor—violet, orange flower, reseda, 
etc.—or else is used over again in the factory for the extrac¬ 
tion of flowers. 

Experience has shown us that it is best to' infuse the po¬ 
mades or huiles antiques twice in the cold and to use the two 
fluids united for the finest perfumes; the residue by warm in¬ 
fusion furnishes an essence of second quality, and superior 
pomades or fragrant oils. The infusion is generally effected 
in strong glass bottles of a capacity of three to five gallons; 
about five to six quarts of cologne spirit being poured over 
six to eight pounds or pints of fat or huile antique. 

In treating huiles antiques all parts of the oil should be 
brought into contact with the alcohol as much as possible, 
hence the bottles must be frequently shaken; a better plan is 
to bring the tightly closed bottles into an apparatus in which 
they are constantly agitated by rotation. Such an apparatus 
is easily made by placing the bottles in an inclined position 
between two rods fastened to a common axis which is kept 


148 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


revolving. The adjoining illustration (Fig. 32) shows such a 
contrivance which is required also in the manufacture of per¬ 
fumes. The rotation may be effected by clockwork, water 
power, or any other motor. 

Pomades being solid must be divided into small pieces 
which may be done with a knife, but the following procedure 
is more suitable and less laborious. The pomade is placed 
in a tin cylinder four inches wide and about a foot high, which 
is open at one end, the other being closed with a tin plate 
having several fine openings, The cylinder filled with po¬ 
made is set upon the bottle containing the alcohol for extrac- 



Fig. 32. 


tion, and the pomade is pressed through the openings in the 
shape of thin threads by means of a piston. 

In this way, of course, the pomade acquires a very large 
surface and rapidly yields the aromatic substance to the 
alcohol. The odor of the pomade differs according to the 
length of time which it has been subjected to the flowers, and 
on beins; treated with alcohol furnishes extracts of corre- 
sponding strength. This should be borne in mind in the manu¬ 
facture of perfumes which are intended to be uniform in 
quality. 

After two cold and one warm infusion of the pomade, it 
may be made to yield some more aromatic material by heat¬ 
ing it carefully to its exact melting-point, when extract again 








PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


I49 


appears on the surface and can be poured off by gentle inclina¬ 
tion of the vessel. 

In the following pages we give the proportions by weight 
and measure employed by the most important French, Eng¬ 
lish, and German manufacturers for their pomade extracts or 
solutions of the essential oils in alcohol. As to the latter we 
again repeat that it must be over 88 to 90$ strength according 
to Tralles or even stronger, and that it must be absolutely free 
from any trace of amyl alcohol (potato fusel oil), the least 
amount of which impairs the delicacy of the odor. In this 
country (the United States) there is no difficulty whatever in 
obtaining alcohol of proper strength. The market offers 
scarcely any other but that of 94$. Of course deodorized 
alcohol, or so-called Cologne spirit should be used. Grain 
and wine spirits are the kinds which when rectified are to be 
preferred to all others. All the citron oils (i.e., oils of lemon, 
bergamot, and those with similar odor), rose oils (oils of rose, 
geranium, and rhodium), and many other sweet scents are 
most fragrant when dissolved in pure spirit of wine, while the 

odors from the animal kingdom and those of violet 

« 

and orris root) smell sweetest when dissolved in grain spirit. 

The essences prepared from pomades or huiles antiques 
usually contain in solution some fat which is best removed by 
cooling. To this end the vessels containing the essences are 
placed in a vat and surrounded with pellets of ice and crystals 
of chloride of calcium. By this mixture the temperature can 
be reduced below — 20° C. ( — 4 0 F.), and after some time the 
fats are deposited in a solid form at the bottom of the vessel. 
This is then taken from the vat and the essence carefully 
poured from the sediment. 

The alcoholic extracts of the pomadess or solutions of the 
aromatics are called essences or extracts (French, extraits) ; 
the solutions obtained from resins and balsams are usually 
termed tinctures. 



150 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


While some extracts, owing to their strong odor, can be 
used only when diluted with alcohol, others are employed in 
perfumes as such. Pure extracts (extraits purs) are those 
containing only a single odor and are but rarely used as per¬ 
fumes; the latter are usually mixtures of several, often a great 
many odors. 


CHAPTER XI. 

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE MOST IMPOR¬ 
TANT ESSENCES AND EXTRACTS. 

Note. —There is considerable confusion, in works on per¬ 
fumery, regarding the terms essence and extract. In French 
works, essence always means “ essential oil/’ Thus “ essence 
de rose” is “essential oil of roses,” or “attar (otto) of roses. ' 
Extrait (French) is used of alcoholic solutions of oils, as well 
as alcoholic extracts of pomades, or of substances not wholly 
soluble in alcohol, and also of compound liquids. In English, 
essence is used, and should be confined to alcoholic solutions 
of essential oils (“essence of lemon,” “essence of pepper¬ 
mint ”). It is, then, equivalent to the term “ spirit,” which is 
also used only of alcoholic solutions of essential oils or other 
volatile substance (such as: spirit of peppermint, essence of 
peppermint; spirit of camphor, etc.). Liquid alcoholic ex¬ 
tracts of substances not wholly soluble in alcohol are properly 
called tinctjires (for instance, tincture of benzoin, tincture of 
musk); and liquid alcoholic extracts of pomades, or com¬ 
pound odorous liquids, are best comprised under the general 
term extracts. 

We shall employ the terms essence , extract , and tincture in 
the sense here explained. 



PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 151 

. Extract of Cassie (Extrait de Cassie). 


Cassie pomade. 6 lbs. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


Extract of cassie has a fine green color—a fact which is 
not desirable in perfumes intended for the handkerchief be¬ 
cause colored preparations leave stains. However, extract of 
cassie is rarely used pure, but is generally mixed with other 
odors for handkerchief perfumes, whereby the color is so 

4 

much diluted that it may be disregarded. This extract—and 
the same remark applies to all the others—immediately after 
its preparation must be put into tightly closed vessels and 
preserved in the coolest attainable dark place; for light, air, 
and heat must be called the destroyers of perfumes, since the 
most delightful odors eventually disappear under their influ¬ 
ence. 

For the benefit of manufacturers who import this extract 
from Southern France, the main source of supply, we may 
add that the word cassie or extrait de cassie, derived from 
the flowers of Acacia farnesiana, might readily give rise to 
confusion with extrait de cassia, made from the bark of the 
cinnamon cassia. 

Tincture of Ambergris (Extrait d’Ambregris). 


Ambergris.'. 5 oz. 

Alcohol. 5 fl ts - 


The ambergris should be broken into small pieces with a 
chopping knife repeatedly moistened with alcohol, and allowed 
to digest in the alcohol for some weeks at a temperature of 
about 30° C. (86° F.). 

Tincture of Benzoin (Extrait de Benjoin). 

IO OZ. 

5 


Benzoin 

Alcohol 








152 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


This tincture is not so much used for handkerchief per¬ 
fumes as for preserving many pomades, as it possseses the 
valuable property of preventing fats from becoming rancid. 

Essence of Bergamot (Extrait de Bergamotte). 


Oil of bergamot. 8 oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


Tincture of Castor (Extrait de Castoreum). 

Castor . 2 oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


Tincture of Musk Seed (Extrait d’Ambrette). 

Musk seed, powdered. i lb. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 

Essence of Bitter Almond (Extrait d’Amande). 

Oil of bitter almond. oz. 

Alcohol . 5 qts. 


Essence of Calamus (Extrait de Glaieul). 


Oil of calamus. oz. 

Alcohol.5 qts. 


This essence has a pleasant odor, but it is not valued as a 
true perfume ; though if it is mixed with other essences or 
extracts until its characteristic odor is no longer recognizable 
it furnishes a very useful basis for many cheap articles. 

Essence of Cedar (Extrait de Cedre). 


Oil of cedar wood. y 2 lb. 

Alcohol . 5 qts. 


This essence made from the oil is colorless and can be 
used immediately for handkerchief perfumes. 

Tincture of Cedar (Extrait de Bois de C^dre). 

This is made by digesting finely rasped cedar wood with 
strong alcohol, namely: 














PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


153 


Cedar wood chips. 6 lb. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


The result is a fragrant tincture with a beautiful deep red 
color which cannot be employed for handkerchief perfumes, 
but for many cosmetic preparations such as mouth washes 
and for scenting soap. 

Essence of Citronella. 


Extrait de citronella . 3 to 3^ oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 

Essence of Lemon Grass (Extrait de Schoenanthe). 

Oil of lemon grass . 2 to 3 oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


Extract of Lilac (Extrait de Lilas). 

The genuine is seldom made; the preparation sold under 


this name consists of: 

Oil of bitter almond. 15 grains. 

Extract of orange flowers, from pomade . . 2 qts. 

Extract of tuberose, from pomade. 3 qts. 

Tincture of civet. % pint. 


Of late, extract of lilac is often prepared by means of 

lilacin or terpineol, as follows: 

Lilacin. 1 oz. 

Alcohol. 1 pint. 

Extract of Honeysuckle (Extrait de Chevre-feuille). 

The author has made this extract by treating the pomade 
prepared from the flowers of Lonicera Caprifolium, in the fol¬ 
lowing proportion: 

Honeysuckle pomade. 6 lb. 

Alcohol. 5 Q ts - 

The commercial extract of this name is always a com- 















154 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


pound which may be prepared according to the following 


formula: 

Extract of rose, made from the pomade.. . i qt. 

Extract of tuberose, from pomade. i qt. 

Extract of violet, from pomade. i qt. 

Tincture of vanilla. /4 pint. 

Tincture of Tolu. ^ pint. 

Oil of bitter almond.'. 15 grains. 

Oil of neroli. 8 grains. 

Essence of Geranium. 

Oil of geranium (rose-geranium). 5*4 oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


In the commercial article the essence of lemon grass is 
often substituted for the essence of geranium, the odor being 
similar, though less delicate. 

Extract of Cucumber (Extrait de Concombres). 


Cucumbers. 8 lbs. 

Alcohol . 5 qts. 


The cucumbers are peeled, cut into thin slices, and mace¬ 
rated in the warm alcohol. If the odor is not strong enough 
in the alcohol after some days, it is poured over some more 
fresh slices, the macerated residue is expressed, and at the 
end of the operation all the liquids are united and filtered. 

Extract of Heliotrope (Extrait de Heliotrope). 


Heliotrope pomade.'. 6 lb. 

Alcohol . 5 qts. 


This has thus far been manufactured only by French per¬ 
fumers at very high prices; the great majority of the so-called 
extracts of heliotrope are compounded from: 


Extract of rose, from pomade. 2 qts. 

Extract of orange flowers, from pomade.. . 14 oz. 

Tincture of ambergris. 7 oz. 

Tincture of vanilla. 4 qts. 

Oil of bitter almond. 75 grains. 

This is used as a perfume as such. 


















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 1 55 

More recently, piperonal, under the name heliotropin, is 
used for making this extract— 


Heliotropin. oz. 

Alcohol... i pint. 


It is necessary to blend this with various other aromatics 

in order to cover the pronounced odor. A little cumarin is 

usually of great help. But is it impossible, as yet, to give 

reliable proportions which would suit all cases. 

« 

Extract of Jasmine (Extrait de Jasmin). 


Jasmine pomade . .. 6 lb. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


Essence of Lavender (Extrait de Lavande). 


Oil of lavender.. 7 oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


A far superior essence may be prepared by the distilla¬ 


tion of: 

Oil of lavender. 7 oz. 

Rose water. 2 qts. 

Alcohol. 10 qts. 


The distillation is continued until one-half of the entire 
liquid has passed over; the residue in the still furnishes an 
essence of lavender of the second quality. 

Extract of Wallflower (Extrait de Girofle). 
The genuine odor can be made only from the pomade; the 


commercial extract consists of: 

Extract of cassie, from pomade. 1 pint. 

Extract of orange flower, from pomade. ... 1 qt. 

Extract of rose, from pomade. 1 qt. 

Tincture of vanilla. 1 pint. 

Tincture of orris root. 1 pint. 

Oil of bitter almond. 1 pint. 
















I . 

156 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

1 

Extract of Lily (Extrait de Lys). 

As to this delightful odor the remark made under the pre¬ 
ceding head applies likewise; artificial extract of lily con¬ 
sists of: 

Extract of cassie, from pomade. 3 pints. 

Extract of jasmine, from pomade. 13^2 A. oz. 

Extract of orange flower, from pomade. ... 27 fl. oz. 

Extract of rose, from pomade.. . 3 pints. 

Extract of tuberose, from pomade. 3 qts. 

Tincture of vanilla. 40^ A- oz. 

Oil of bitter almond. 30 grains. 

Essence of Lemon (Extrait de Limon). 

Oil of lemon. 7 oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 

Extract of Magnolia (Extrait de Magnolia). 

This favorite perfume is a mixture of: 

Extract of orange flower, from pomade ... 2 qts. 

Extract of rose, from pomade. 4 qts. 

Extract of tuberose, from pomade. 1 qt. 

Extract of violet, from pomade. 1 qt. 

Oil of bitter almond. 40 grains. 

Oil of lemon... 16 grains. 

Essence of Peppermint (Extrait de Menthe). 

Oil of peppermint. 6 y 2 oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 

Tincture of Musk (Extrait de Muse). 

Musk.. 2^ oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 

This tincture is of special importance, not so much because 
of its odor as on account of its useful property of fixing other 
very volatile odors. 



















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


157 


Extract of Myrtle (Extrait de Myrte). 

Owing to the small yield of essential oil furnished on dis¬ 
tillation by the myrtle and the comparatively high price of 
the oil of myrtle, nearly all the extract of myrtle is prepared 


articifially, as follows: 

Extract of jasmine, from pomade. pint. 

Extract of orange flower, from pomade ... 1 qt. 

Extract of rose, from pomade. 2 qts. 

Extract of tuberose, from pomade. 1 qt. 

Tincture of vanilla. 1 qt. 


Extract of Narcissus. 

In perfumery, two extracts of narcissus are distinguished 
—true extract of narcissus, from the flowers of the garden 
plant, Narcissus poeticus, and the so-called extract of jon- 
quille, from Narcissus Jonquilla, which is cultivated in South¬ 
ern France and whose odor is obtained by maceration. Genu¬ 
ine extract of narcissus is even more rarely obtainable than 
extract of jonquille; the odors of both are imitated, mainly 
according to the following prescriptions:' 

1. Extract of Narcissus (Extrait de Narcisse). 


Extract of jonquille, from pomade. 2 qts. 

Extract of tuberose, from pomade. 3 qts. 

Tincture of storax. Y* pint. 

Tincture of tolu. J2 pint. 


2. Extract of Jonquille (Extrait de Jonquille). 


Extract of jasmine, from pomade. 2 qts. 

Extract of orange flower, from pomade ... 1 qt. 

Extract of tuberose, from pomade. 2 qts. 

Tincture of vanilla. Y* pint. 

Essence of Clove (Extrait de Clous de Girofles). 

Oil of clove. 4 Y* oz - 

Alcohol. 5 d ts - 















158 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Extract of Pink (Extrait d’CEillet). 

This pleasant odor occurs in commerce only as an imitation. 


Extract of cassie, from pomade. 2% pints. 

Extract of orange flower, from pomade ... 2^> pints. 

Extract of rose, from pomade. 5 pints. 

Tincture of vanilla. 20 fl. oz. 

Oil of clove, a sufficient quantity, about.. . 75 grains. 


The oil of clove which determines the characteristic odor 
of this extract is dissolved in a little alcohol; of this solution 
enough is gradaully added to the mixture until the odor has 
become sufficiently strong. 

Extract of Orange Flower or Neroli (Extrait de 
Fleurs d’Oranges, Extrait de Neroli). 


Orange-flower pomade. 6 lb. 

Alcohol . 5 qts. 

Or, 

Oil neroli petale. 2oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


The latter preparation is also called “ essence of neroli.” 

The extract prepared from the pomade furnishes this 
highly esteemed odor of a delicacy never to be approached 
by that made with oil. The alcoholic extract of the pomade 
perfumed with the flowers of Syringa (Philadelphus coronarius) 
also occurs in commerce as extract of orange flowers or neroli. 

Essence of Patchouly (Extrait de Patchouli). 


Oil of patchouly. 1^ oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


This pure essence of patchouly has not a very pleasant 
odor; that made according to the following formula is far 


superior. 

Oil of patchouly. 1 J/2 oz. 

Oil of rose. ^ oz. 

Alcohol.•.. 5 qts. 














PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


l S9 


Tincture of Balsam of Peru (Extrait de Perou). 

Peru balsam . io }4 oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 

This tincture, though of a very pleasant odor, can be used 
only for scenting soap or sachets, as it has a very dark brown 
color; by distilling alcohol over Peru balsam a colorless ex¬ 
tract is obtained, though of a fainter odor. 

Essence of Allspice (Extrait de Piment). 


Oil of allspice. 3^ oz. 

Alcohol.. 5 qts. 


Extract of Sweet Pea (Extrait de Pois de senteur). 

This extract, made almost exclusively in Southern France 
by maceration of the pomade, is but rarely met with in com¬ 
merce; what passes under this name is made as follows: 

Extract of orange flower, from pomade.. . 2)4 pints. 


Extract of rose, from pomade. 2]/^ pints. 

Extract of tuberose, from pomade. 2)4 pints. 

Tincture of vanilla. 5^ oz. 


Extract of Reseda (Extrait de Mignonette). 


Reseda pomade. 5 to 6 lb. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 

Tincture of tolu. 5^2 oz. 


The addition of the tincture of tolu is necessary here, 
owing to the extraordinary volatility of the delightful odor of 
mignonette, which is lessened by the addition of tincture of 
tolu. 

Essence or Extract of Rose (Extraits de Rose). 

In commerce several sorts of essence or extract of rose 
are distinguished ; only the cheaper grades are made by direct 
solution of the oil of rose in alcohol, the better grades are pre¬ 
pared only from pomades. As the rose is the noblest of flow- 












i6o 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


ers, so are these odors the most magnificent thus far produced 
by the art of perfumery, since they are approached in delicacy 
and fragrance only by the genuine extracts of orange flower 
and violet. The so-called rose waters (eaux de rose) are best 
obtained by distillation of fresh or salted rose leaves with water. 
The preceding formulae will show that both extract of rose 
and rose water form important constituents of many compound 
essences, hence these materials require special attention. In 
the following pages we enumerate only those formulae which 
are acknowledged as the best and furnish the finest product. 
As rose water likewise belongs among the rose odors we give 
directions for its preparation, and observe in passing that the 
precautions required in the manufacture of this one apply 
also to all aromatic waters (eaux aromatisees). The first 
essential to the production of a fine aromatic water is the em¬ 
ployment of the freshest possible flowers; when kept in stock, 
chemical changes occur in the leaves which affect also the 
aromatic constituents and lead to a deterioration of the fra¬ 
grance. Hence we urgently recommend to distil the freshly 
gathered flowers as soon as possible, even if the quantity on 
hand be small. Should this not be feasible, it is advisable to 
press the flowers immediately after gathering in stone-ware 
pots and to pour over them a saturated solution of table salt. 
A concentrated saline solution prevents decomposition by 
the abstraction of water; and thus larger quantities of flow¬ 
ers may be gathered and distilled with the salt solution. The 
majority of aromatic waters are prepared in this way, for in¬ 
stance, rose, jasmine, lilac, and others. They enter less into 
handkerchief perfumes than into various mouth and other 
washes, and cosmetics in general. 

Rose Water (Eau de Rose Triple). 

Rose leaves. 4 lb. 

Water. 20 pints. 

Mix them, and by means of steam, distil 10 pints. 




PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 161 

The rose leaves are, of course, preferably to be used while 
fresh. If they are to be preserved for future use, they should 
be packed in stone-ware jars, and covered with a solution of 
common salt. This is poured off before distillation, but used 
over again for the same purpose. 

Extract of Rose (Extrait de Roses Triple). 


Rose pomade. 8 1b. 

Alcohol . 5 qts. 


Essence of [Oil of] Rose (Esprit de Roses Triple). 

Oil of rose.. 3)4 oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 

This essence is not so good as the extract. 

Extract of China Roses (Essence de Roses jaunes)0 


Essence of rose (triple). 2 qts. 

Tincture of tonka . /4 pint. 

Extract of tuberose. 2 qts. 

Extract of verbena. )4 pint. 


Extract of Sweet-Brier (Wild Rose) (Extrait 


d’Eglantine). 

Extract of cassie, from pomade. 44 fl. oz. 

Extract of orange flower, from pomade ... 44 fl. oz. 

Extract of rose, from pomade. 2)4 qts. 

Essence of rose (triple). . 44 d- oz - 

Oil of lemon grass.,. . . . ]/\ oz. 

Oli of neroli. V\ oz - 

Extract of Moss-Rose (Extrait de Roses Mousseuses). 

Extract of rose, from pomade. 2 qts. 

Extract of orange flower, from pomade ... 1 qt. 

Essence of rose (triple). 1 qt- 

Tincture of ambergris. 1 pi nt - 

Tincture of musk. )4 lb. 



















162 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Extract of Tea-Rose (Extrait de Rosa thea). 


Extract of rose, from pomade. i qt. 

Extract of geranium, from pomade. i qt. 

Extract of orange flower, from pomade ... Yz pint. 

Essence of rose (triple). i qt. 

Tincture of santal. ^ pint. 

Tincture of orris root. x /z pint. 


Extract of White Rose (Essence de Roses blanches). 


Extract of rose, from pomade. i qt. 

Extract of jasmine, from pomade. i pint. 

Extract of violet, from pomade. i qt. 

Essence of patchouly. ]/ 2 pint. 

Essence of rose (triple). i qt. 


Extract of Twin-Roses (Essence de Roses tumelles). 


Extract of rose, from pomade. 5 qts. 

Oil of rose . iY oz. 


Extract of Santal (Extrait de Santal). 


Tincture of santal ... 3^4 oz. 

Essence of rose (triple). 1 pint. 

Alcohol. 9 pints. 


Tincture of Storax (Essence de Styrax). 

Storax. 10 Yz oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 

Though this tincture has a pleasant odor, it is not ordi¬ 
narily used by itself, but for fixing other odors. 

Tincture of Tolu (Extrait de Baume de Tolou). 

Tolu balsam. 10 Y* oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 

The remark made under tincture of storax applies also to 





















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


163 


Tincture of Tonka (Extrait de Tonka). 


Tonka beans, crushed. 21 oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


Extract of Tuberose (Extrait de Tuberose). 


Tuberose pomade . 8-10 lb. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 

Tincture of storax. 10 fl. oz. 


Tincture of Vanilla (Extrait de Vanille). 


Vanilla, sliced. lb. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 

Extract of Violet (Extrait de Violette). 

Violet pomade. 6-7 lb. 

Extract of cassie. fl. oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


This extract is very expensive; a good imitation is made 


as follows: 

Extract of cassie, from pomade. 2 qts. 

Extract of rose, from pomade. 1 qt. 

Extract of tuberose, from pomade. 1 qt. 

Tincture of orris root. 1 qt. 

Oil of bitter almond. 15 grains. 


Tincture of Orris Root (Extrait d’Iris). 


Orris root, powdered. 6-7 lb. 

Alcohol.. 5 qts. 


This tincture is sold as a very cheap violet perfume, but 
it has also considerable value to perfumery in general, owing 
to its fixing power. 

Extract of Verbena (Extrait de Verveine). 

True oil of verbena is rather expensive. Hence artificial 
compositions are employed under the name of verbena which 
resemble the true odor, though not exactly like jt. 



















164 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Extract of Verbena A. 


Oil of lemon grass. 75 grains. 

Oil of lemon. 14 oz. 

Oil of orange peel. 3^4 oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


This extract is cheap and is used immediately as a per¬ 
fume. The extract usually sold under the French name Ex¬ 
trait de verveine is more expensive and far superior: 

Extract of Verbena B. 

Extract of orange flower, from pomade ... 30 fl. oz. 


Extract of rose, from pomade. 1 qt. 

Extract of tuberose, from pomade. y$ oz. 

Oil of citron zeste. oz. 

Oil of lemon grass. Y\ oz. 

Oil of lemon peel. 9 oz. 

Oil of orange peel. 4)4 oz. 

Alcohol. 4/ / 3 pints. 


As already explained, if hand-pressed oil of lemon (made 
by the ecuelle process) is available, then the “ oil of citron 
zeste ” (which is this particular kind of oil) and the “ oil of 
lemon ” may be simply added together; that is, 9^4 oz. of oil 
of lemon are used. 

Extract of Volcameria (Extrait de Volcameria). 

This extract is no more derived from the fragrant blossom 
whose name it bears than are those of the lily, pink, and others 
met with in commerce. It is prepared according to the fol¬ 


lowing formula: 

Extract of jasmine, from pomade. 1 pint. 

Extract of rose, from pomade. 1 qt. 

Extract of tuberose, from pomade. 2 qts. 

Extract of violet, from pomade. 2 qts. 

Tincture of musk. *4 pint. 


















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


16 5 


Essence of Vetiver (Extrait de Vetiver). 


Oil of vetiver. 2^ oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


Tincture of Olibanum (Extrait d’Oliban, Extrait 

d’Encens). 


Olibanum . 1 lb. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


Extract of Wintergreen (Extrait de Gaultherie). 

This essence is more commonly sold under the English 
than the French name. Its composition is the following: 


Tincture of ambergris. 1 pint. 

Extract of cassie. 1 qt. 

Essence of lavender. 1 pint. 

Extract of orange flower, from pomade ... 1 qt. 

Extract of rose, from pomade. 2 qts. 

Tincture of vanilla. 1 pint. 

Essence of vetiver. 1 pint. 


Tincture of Civet (Extrait de Civette). 

Civet. 1—1 y? oz. 

Orris root. 1-1% oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 

Tincture of civet is exceedingly lasting and is generally 
employed for fixing other odors. As to the quantity re¬ 
quired to fix perfumes in general, we may state that it varies 
with the nature of the odor. As a rule, about one-sixteenth 
part of tincture of civet suffices for even the most volatile 
perfumes. 

Tincture of Cinnamon (Exrait de Canelle). 


Cinnamon. 1 lb. 

Alcohol... 5 qts. 

















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


166 

Owing to the yellow color left upon handkerchiefs by per¬ 
fumes prepared with this extract, it can be used only for com¬ 
mon goods, but it is more frequently employed for scenting 
soaps. 


CHAPTER XII. 

THE DIVISION OF PERFUMERY. 

ACCORDING to the purposes for which they are intended, 
the various articles of perfumery may be divided into several 
groups.' They are: 

True Perfumes. 

A. Liquid .—Alcoholic handkerchief perfumes. Among 
these are the so-called extracts, bouquets, and waters. Am- 
moniacal and acid perfumes: aromatic vinegars and volatile 
ammoniacal salts. 

B. Dry .—Sachet powders, fumigating pastils and powders. 

Preparations for the Care of the Skin. 

Emulsions, cremes, perfumed soaps, toilet waters, nail 
powders. 

Preparations for the Care of the Hair. 

Hair oils, pomades, hair washes. 

Preparations for the Care of the Mouth. 

Tooth powders, mouth washes. 

Cosmetics. 

Paints, powders, hair dyes, depilatories, etc. 

In connection with the description of these different arti¬ 
cles some remarks will be made about the colors employed in 
perfumery and about the utensils used with the cosmetics, 
such as combs, brushes, sponges, etc. 



PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


167 


CHAPTER XIII. 

THE MANUFACTURE OF HANDKERCHIEF PER¬ 
FUMES, BOUQUETS, OR AROMATIC WATERS. 

The manufacture of handkerchief perfumes is very sim¬ 
ple: the extracts prepared as directed in Chapter XI. are 
mixed in definite proportions and the perfume is finished. If 
the extracts are well seasoned, the perfumes blend in perfect 
harmony within a few days, and this time may be even short¬ 
ened by the use of the apparatus illustrated in Fig. 32. If 
the extracts have been but recently prepared, a longer time 
will be required before the odor of the alcohol and the seve¬ 
ral constituents is imperceptible and all odors have blended 
into a harmonious whole. 

If the manufacturer can afford to allow the finished ex¬ 
tracts and perfumes to season for some length of time—of 
course, in well-closed and completely filled vessels—in a cool 
place, they will improve markedly in quality. Perfumes which 
contain but a single odor or in which a certain odor distinctly 
predominates are usually called by the name of the respective 
plant, etc., under a French title, e.g. } extrait de violette, extrait 
de reseda, etc. Combinations of many odors which produce 
an agreeable impression as a whole, while no one odor predom¬ 
inates, are called bouquets or waters; for instance, Bouquet 
de Jockey Club, Eau de Mille Fleurs, Cologne Water, Hun¬ 
garian Water, etc. 

The mixture of the extracts is effected in strong glass bot¬ 
tles of a capacity exactly adapted to the perfume, so as to be 
completely filled. For perfumes which require seasoning to 
make the odors blend we use small glass balls of which enough 


168 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

i 

are introduced into the bottle to make the mixture rise into 
the neck of the container which is then closed air-tight and 
preserved in a dark, cool place. 

Of course, all perfumes should be perfectly clear and free 
from turbidity. The extracts made from pomades or essential 
oils are clear and furnish perfumes that remain so; extracts 
prepared from balsams or resins should be allowed to stand 
at rest for several weeks and then be carefully decanted from 
the sediment. Filtration should be dispensed with unless ab¬ 
solutely unavoidable, on account of the large amount of oxy¬ 
gen with which the extract would thereby come in contact, to 
the detriment of the odor. 

The bottles in which the perfumes are mixed, as well as 
those in which they are put up for sale, must be perfectly 
dry, as a very small amount of water often suffices to separate 
a portion of the aromatics and to render the liquid turbid or 
opalescent. 

Fine perfumes are always sold in glass vessels with ground- 
glass stoppers; cork has a peculiar odor which it would com¬ 
municate to the liquid. For the more perfect exclusion of 
the air the stoppers and bottle necks are moreover covered 
with animal membrane, sheet rubber, or vegetable parchment, 
with an outer cap of white glove leather. 

In the case of very expensive perfumes, much care is be¬ 
stowed on the container; certain perfumes are filled into bot¬ 
tles of peculiar form and color, or into small porcelain jars 
provided with corresponding labels printed in gold and colors. 
Sometimes the container costs many times the price of the 
perfume. But as the finest perfumes are articles of luxury in 
the truest sense of the word, they require extreme care in 
their putting up; and good taste in the selection of the con¬ 
tainers for fluids, pomades, cosmetics, powders, etc., is of as 
much importance to the perfumer as the possession of a sen¬ 
sitive and trained olfactory organ. 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


169 


In the following formulas for the preparation of bouquets, 
the words extract, essence, and tincture have the same mean¬ 
ing as was explained under Chapter XI. For cheap perfumes 
the corresponding essential oils dissolved in alcohol, that is, 
the corresponding “essence,” is employed in place of the true 
“ extract.” 


CHAPTER XIV. 

FORMULAS FOR HANDKERCHIEF PERFUMES. 

Bouquet de l’Alhambra. 

Extract of cassie. 1 pint. 

Extract of orange flower.. 1 pint. 

Essence of geranium. 1 qt. 

Extract of tuberose ... 2 qts. 

Tincture of civet. 1 pint. 

Extrait d’Ambre, I. 

Tincture of ambergris. 3 qts. 

Tincture of musk . 1 /4 pints. 

Oil of rose. 1 oz. 

Tincture of vanilla.•. I 3/^ A- oz * 

Alcohol. 3 P ints - 

Extrait d’Ambre, II. 

Essence of rose (triple). 2 qts. 

Tincture of ambergris. 4 qts. 

Tincture of musk. 1 qt. 

Tincture of vanilla. 1 pint. 

Bouquet de l’Amour. 

Extract of cassie. 1 qt. 

Tincture of ambergris. 1 pint. 

Extract of jasmine. 1 qt. 

Tincture of musk. 1 pint. 

Extract of rose. 1 qt- 

Extract of violet. 1 qt. 























170 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Baisers du Printemps (Spring Kisses). 

Extract of cassie. i pint. 

Tincture of ambergris. 3 fl. oz. 

Extract of jasmine. 6 fl. oz. 

Extract of rose.. 5 pints. 

Extract of violet. 5 pints. 

Essence of rose (triple). 10 fl. oz. 

Oil of bergamot.120 grains. 

Oil of lemon. 30 grains. 

Note. Here and in all succeeding formulas, “ oil of lemon ’ 
is meant to be the finest “ hand-pressed ” oil. 

Eau de Berlin. 

Oil of anise.150 grains. 

Oil of bergamot. 1 oz. 

Oil of cardamom. 15 grains. 

Oil of lemon. 30 grains. 

Oil of coriander. 15 grains. 

Oil of geranium. 30 grains. 

Oil of melissa. 15 grains. 

Oil of neroli. 75 grains. 

Oil of rose.*. 30 grains. 

Oil of santal. 30 grains. 

Oil of thyme. 15 grains. 

Alcohol. 10 qts. 

Buckingham Flowers. 

Extract of cassie. 1 qt. 

Tincture of ambergris. 1 pint 

Extract of jasmine. 1 qt. 

Extract of orange flower. 1 qt. 

Extract of rose. 1 qt. 

Tincture of orris root. 1 pint. 

Oil of lavender. 40 grains. 

Oil of neroli. 40 grains. 

Oil of rose. 75 grains. 































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


• 171 


Bouquet d’Andorre. 

Extract of jasmine. 

Extract of rose. >. 

Extract of tuberose. 

Extract of violet.. 

Tincture of orris root. 

Oil of geranium. 


Bouquet du Bosphore. 

Extract of cassie. 

Extract of jasmine. 

Extract of tuberose. 

Tincture of civet. 

Essence of rose (triple). 

Oil of bitter almond. 

Bouquet des Chasseurs. 

Extract of cassie.... . 

Tincture of musk. 

Extract of neroli. 

Extract of orange flower. 

« 

Tincture of tonka bean. 

Tincture of orris root. 

Oil of lemon. 

Essence of rose (triple). 

Bouquet de la Cour. 

Tincture of ambergris. 

Extract of jasmine. 

Tincture of musk. 

Extract of rose. 

Extract of violet. 

Essence of rose (triple).. 

Oil of bergamot. 

Oil of lemon. 

Oil of neroli. 


1 pint. 

1 pint. 

1 pint. 

1 pint. 

1 pint. 

75 grains. 


1 qt. 

>2 pint. 
y 2 pint. 
18 grains. 

>2 pint. 
30 grains. 


20 fl. oz. 
20 fl. oz. 
20 fl. oz. 
20 fl. oz. 
40 fl. oz. 
20 fl. oz. 
^2 oz. 
5 pints. 


2 oz. 

1 qt. 

2 oz. 

1 qt. 

1 qt. 

1 qt. 

45 grains. 
45 grains. 
45 grains. 































172 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Bouquet de Chypre. 


Tincture of ambergris. 1 qt. 

Tincture of musk.. . 1 qt. 

Tincture of tonka. 1 qt. 

Tincture of vanilla. 1 qt. 

Tincture of orris root. 1 qt. 

Essence of rose (triple). 2 qts. 


Bouquet des Delices. 


Tincture of ambergris . . .~;. 1 pint. 

Extract of rose. 1 qt. 

Extract of tuberose. 1 qt. 

Extract of violet. 1 qt. 

Tincture of orris root... 1 pint. 

Oil of bergamot. ^2 oz. 

Oil of lemon. 1 oz. 


Bouquet de Fleurs (Nosegay). 


Tincture of benzoin. 5^ oz. 

Extract of rose. 3 pints. 

Extract of tuberose. 3 pints. 

Extract of violet. 3 pints. 

Oil of bergamot. 2^/2 oz. 

Oil of lemon. 1^ oz. 

Oil of orange peel. 1^ oz. 


CONVALLARIA (LlLY OF THE VALLEY, FLEURS DE Mai). 


Extract of cassie. 1% pints. 

Extract of jasmine. i x /2 pints. 

Extract of orange flower. iy 2 pints. 

Extract of rose. iy pints. 

Tincture of vanilla. 3 pints. 

Oil of bitter almond. ^4 oz. 


While this perfume is very pleasant, its odor has no resem¬ 
blance to the delicate fragrance of Convallaria majalis, our 
ordinary lily of the valley. 




























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


173 


COURONNE DE FLEURS (GARLAND OF FLOWERS). 


Extract of cassie. 

Tincture of ambergris 
Extract of jasmine .. . 
Tincture of musk. 
Tincture of orris root. 

Oil of bergamot.. 

Oil of lavender. 

Oil of clove. 

Oil of neroli. 

Oil of rose. 

Alcohol . 


20 fl. oz. 
1^/2 fl. oz. 
20 fl. oz. 

I3F2 fl. OZ. 

5 pints, 
oz. 

I l /2 OZ. 

75 grains. 
I l /2 oz. 

1% oz. 

5 pints. 


Court Bouquet. 


Oil of bergamot. ^ oz. 

Oil of neroli. 24 grains. 

Alcohol. 5 oz. 

Orris root. 1 oz. 

Storax, liquid. 8 grains. 

Musk. 3 grains. 


Macerate for two weeks, and filter. 

Esterhazy Bouquets. 

An old renowned perfume, a former rival of Cologne water; 
the name is derived from a noble Hungarian family. 

A. Bouquet d’Esterhazy (French formula). 


Tincture of ambergris. pint. 

Extract of neroli. 1 qt. 

Extract of orange flower. 1 qt. 

Tincture of tonka. 1 qt. 

Tincture of vanilla. 1 qt. 

Tincture of vetiver. 1 qt. 

Tincture of orris root. 1 qt. 

Essence of rose (triple). 1 qt. 

Oil of clove. 75 grains. 

Oil of santal. 75 grains. 





























174 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


B. Bouquet Esterhazy (German formula). 


Calamus root. 3 oz. 

Cloves. 3 oz. 

Nutmeg. 3 oz. 

Alcohol . 4 qts. 


Macerate for two weeks and filter; in the filtrate dissolve: 


Tincture of ambergris. 6 oz. 

Ammonia. 30 grains. 

Oil of bitter almond. 30 grains. 

Oil of lemon. 3 oz. 

Tincture of musk. 6 oz. 

Oil of neroli. 60 grains. 

Oil of orange peel. 30 grains. 

Oil of rose. 75 grains. 


Cedre du Libanon (Cedar). 


Oil of cedar wood. 10 oz. 

Extract of rose. 1 pint. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


Fiori d’Italia. 


Extract of cassie.' 1 pint. 

Tincture of ambergris. 5 oz. 

Extract of jasmine. 1 qt. 

Tincture of musk. 5 oz. 

Extract of rose. 2 qts. 

Extract of violet. 1 qt. 

Essence of rose (triple). 1 qt. 

Lilac (Extrait de Lilas). 

Oil of bitter almond. 15 grains. 

Extract of orange flower. 2 qts. 

Extract of tuberose. 3 qts. 

Tincture of civet. 2 to 3% oz. 


The above-named ingredients are exceedingly volatile; 
according to the desired permanence of the perfume, more or 
less of the extract of civet is added. 




























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


175 


Essence des Bouquets, A (Ess. Bouquet). 


Tincture of ambergris. 1 pint. 

Tincture of orris root. . 1. 2 qts. 

Essence of rose (triple) .. 2 qts. 

Oil of bergamot. 4^ oz 

Oil of lemon. 1 oz. 


Ess. Bouquet, B. 

Extract of cassie. 

Extract of jasmine. 

Tincture of musk. 

Oil of cassia. 

Oil of lemon. 

Oil of lavender. 

Oil of neroli. 

Oil of clove. 

Oil of palmarosa. 

Oil of petit grain.,<. 

Oil of Portugal. 

Oil of rose. 

Oil of thyme. 

Alcohol . 


1 oz. 

1 oz. 

oz. 
i}i oz. 

oz. 

I oz. 

oz. 
1% oz 
I oz. 

I oz. 

I oz. 

75 grains. 
75 grains. 
10 qts. 


This perfume is much admired in England. The title Ess. 
Bouquet is an abbreviation of the full name given above. 


Ess. Bouquet, C. 


Tincture of ambergris. 2. oz. 

Tincture of orris. 8 oz. 

Essence of rose (triple). 1 pint. 

Oil of lemon. % oz. 

Oil of bergamot. 1 oz. 

Florida. 

Oil of bergamot. . ^. 60 grains. 

Oil of lemon. 90 grains. 

Oil of lavender. 15 grains. 

Oil of clove. 8 grains. 

Alcohol . 5 Q ts - 































iy6 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Bouquet de Flore. 

Extract of rose. 

Extract of orange flower. 

Extract of tuberose. 

Extract of violet. 

Tincture of benzoin. 

Tincture of storax. 

Tincture of musk. 

Oil of citronella. 

Alcohol . 


i qt. 
i pint. 

1 pint. 

Y-z pint. 

3 fl. oz. 

3 fl. oz. 
fl. oz. 
y oz. 

2 qts. 


Honeysuckle (Extrait de Ciievre-feuille). 


Extract of rose. i qt. 

Extract of tuberose. i qt. 

Extract of violet. i qt. 

Tincture of tolu. y pint. 

Tincture of vanilla. pint. 

Oil of bitter almond. 15 grains. 

Oil of neroli. 8 grains. 


Heliotrope, A (Extrait de Heliotrope). 


Extract of rose. 2 qts. 

Extract of orange flower. 14 oz. 

Tincture of ambergris. 7 oz. 

Tincture of vanilla. 4 qts. 

Oil of bitter almond. 75 grains. 


A very lasting perfume which is especially suitable for 
scenting the linen in a press. 


Heliotrope, B. 


Vanilla. 15 grains. 

Oil of neroli. 2 drops. 

Oil of bitter almond. 1 drop. 

Musk. iy grains. 

Benzoin . 45 grains. 

Cologne spirit. 3^4 oz. 


Macerate for one week, and filter. 





























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


1 77 


New-Mown Hay. 

Hay owes its fragrance partly to cumarin, which is pres¬ 
ent in many plants, but in especially large amount in tonka 
beans. Hence all similar perfumes must contain tincture of 
tonka. Other aromatic substances, however, contribute to 
the odor of hay, but the cumarin gives, as it were, the key¬ 
note to its real odor. 

A very pleasant perfume is made after the following for¬ 


mula : 

Essence of rose (triple).. i qt. 

Essence of geranium. i qt. 

Extract of jasmine. i qt. 

Extract of orange flower. i qt. 

Extract of rose. i qt. 

Tincture of tonka. 2 qts. 


Some add to this perfume 1 pint of extract of cassie which 
imparts a greenish color to it. 

Royal Horse-Guard’s Bouquet. 


Extract of orange flower. 20 fl. oz. 

Tincture of musk. 10 fl. oz. 

Extract of rose. 5 pints. 

Tincture of vanilla. 20 fl. oz. 

Tincture of orris root. 20 fl. oz. 

Oil of clove.120 grains. 


Bouquet d’Irlande. 


Extract of white rose. 5 qts. 

Tincture of vanilla. 1 lb. 


An exceedingly fine perfume. 

Hovenia. 

This plant, Hovenia dulcis, indigenous to Japan, has a 

peculiar odor, which, however, is not pleasant to European 

taste. The perfume sold under this name has a special odor, 
12 
















178 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


though it differs from that of the plant. It is made according 
to the following formula: 

Oil of lemon. 3 oz. 

Oil of clove. X oz - 

Oil of neroli. 75 grains. 

Oil of rose.'. 75 grains. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 

Huntsman’s Nosegay. 

Essence of rose (triple)... i-pint. 

Extract of cassie. 6 fl. oz. 

Extract of orange flower. 6 fl. oz. 

Tincture of musk.150 grains. 

Tincture of tonka. 1 pint. 

Oil of citronella. 150 grains. 

Alcohol. 3 qts. 

Bouquet du Japon. 

Extract of rose. 1 qt. 

Extract of orange flower. 1 qt. 

Essence of patchouly. pint. 

Extract of verbena.. 1 pint. 

Essence of vetiver. 1 pint. 

Tincture of civet. 3 ft. oz. 

Tincture of musk. J<3 fl. oz. 

Eau Japonaise. 

Tincture of cedar wood. 1 qt. 

Essence of patchouly. 1 qt. 

Extract of santal. 1 qt. 

Extract of verbena. 1 qt. 

Essence of vetiver. 1 pint. 

Essence of rose (triple). 1 qt. 

Jockey Club. 

England first introduced a perfume under this name, which 
soon became popular and was largely imitated. Jockey- Club 
perfume is among the finest known to the trade; the delicacy^ 



























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


179 


of its odor rests largely on the extracts of cassie and tuberose 
which are employed in their strongest form—an alcoholic ex¬ 
tract of a pomade well charged with the odors of the plants. 
As in the case of Cologne water, there are a number of widely 
diverging formulas for its preparation, from which we select 
a few which furnish excellent perfumes. 

Jockey Club, A (English formula). 


Extract of cassie. 1 pint. 

Tincture of ambergris.. Y pint. 

Extract of rose. iY pints. 

Extract of tuberose. Y pint. 

Tincture of orris root. 3 pints. 

Essence of rose (triple). iY pints. 

Oil of bergamot. Y oz. 


Jockey Club, B (French formula). 


Extract of cassie. 1^2 pints. 

Extract of jasmine. 2^ pints. 

Extract of rose. 3 pints. 

Extract of tuberose. 3 pints. 

Tincture of civet. Y* pint. 


Jockey Club, C (German formula). 


Extract of cassie. 1 qt. 

Tincture of ambergris. 13% fl. oz. 

Extract of jasmine. 1 qt. 

Extract of rose. 1 pint. 

Extract of tuberose. 1 qt. 

Extract of violet. 1 pint. 

Tincture of civet. 20 fl. oz. 

Oil of bergamot. Y oz - 

Oil of citronella. Y* oz. 

Oil of neroli. Y oz * 

Jonquille (Extrait de Jonquille). 

Extract of jasmine. 2 qts. 

Extract of orange flower. 1 qt. 

Extract of tuberose. 2 Qts. 

Tincture of vanilla. pint. 




























i8o 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Kiss me Quick. 


Extract of cassie. i qt. 

Extract of ambergris. ^2 pint. 

Extract of narcissus (Jonquille). 2 qts. 

Tincture of tonka. 1 qt. 

Tincture of orris root. 2 qts. 

Tincture of civet. ]/^ pint. 

Essence of rose (triple). 1 qt. 

Oil of citronella. 75 grains. 

Oil of lemon grass. 45 grains. 


This perfume, which was once very popular, owes its pe¬ 
culiar refreshing odor to the tincture of tonka beans; by in¬ 
creasing this ingredient the specific odor can be made more 
pronounced. 

Bouquet Cosmopolite. 

Extract of jasmine. 

Essence of lavender.. 

Tincture of musk. 

Essence of patachouly. 

Extract of santal. 

Extract of tuberose. 

Tincture of vanilla. 

Extract of violet. 

Essence of rose (triple). 

Oil of citronella. 

Oil of lemon. 


1 pint. 

/4 pint. 
^ pint. 
y .2 pint, 
pint. 
1 pint. 

Y /z pint. 
1 qt. 

1 pint. 

75 grains. 
>2 oz. 


Cologne Water (Eau de Cologne). 

This famous perfume, which was first made in Cologne on 
the Rhine, its formula being kept secret, can be produced 
anywhere of the same quality as the original. In order to 
obtain a first-class product, it is necessary, besides using the 
finest oils—a matter of course for all fine perfumes—to observe 
another special point. Every Cologne water contains oils of 
the citron group which develop their best odors only in true 






















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 181 

spirit of wine. Unless an alcohol distilled from wine is used, 
it will be impossible to make a Cologne water of really first 
quality. While it is possible to make a good cologne with 
grain or potato spirit, especially if highly rectified, compari¬ 
son with one prepared from pure spirit of wine will at once 
show a marked difference. The small amount of oenanthic 
ether, hardly demonstrable by chemical tests but present in 
every spirit of wine, exerts a decided influence on the flavor. 

Cologne water of the most superior and incomparable qual¬ 
ity is made by dissolving the essential oils, excepting the oils 
of rosemary and neroli, in the alcohol and distilling it, the 
other oils being added to the distillate. 

A very large number of formulas for the preparation of 
Cologne water have been published of which we subjoin a 
few. We have purposely omitted those containing many 
essential oils, as experience has taught us that they are of lit¬ 
tle value; for it is not the number of oils that determines the 
fineness of a perfume, but the manner in which certain odors 
are combined. 

A. Finest Cologne Water (Eau de Cologne Supe- 

rieure). 


Oil of bergamot. 2^ oz. 

Oil of lemon (hand-pressed). 6 oz. 

Oil of neroli petale .. 3)4 oz. 

Oil of neroli bigarade..;. i/^ oz. 

Oil of rosemary. 2)4 oz. 

Alcohol . 3° T ts - 


B. Cologne Water (Second Quality). 


Oil of bergamot. 4/4 oz. 

Oil of lemon. 4/4 oz. 

Oil of neroli petale. Y\ oz. 

Oil of orange peel. 4/4 oz. 

Oil of petit grain. 2)4 oz. 

Oil of rosemary. 2)4 oz. 

Alcohol . 3° fits- 















182 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


C. Cologne Water (ordinary). 


Oil of bergamot. 7 oz. 

Oil of lemon. 3^ oz. 

Oil of lavender. Y/z oz. 

Alcohol . 30 qts. 


D. Cologne Water. 


Oil of bergamot 
Oil of lemon. . . 
Oil of lavender. 
Oil of neroli. . . 
Oil of rosemary 
Alcohol . 


\Y\ oz. 
Y/z oz. 
150 grains. 
Yz oz. 
75 grains. 
30 qts. 


E. Cologne Water. 

Oil of bergamot. 

Oil of lemon. 

Oil of lavender. 

Oil of melissa. 

Oil of neroli. 

Alcohol . 


F. Cologne Water. 

Oil of bergamot. 

Oil of lemon. 

Oil of lavender. 

Oil of melissa. 

Oil of neroli. 

Alcohol . 


• 2 oz. 

1 oz. 

Yz oz. 
Y\ OZ. 
Y\ OZ. 
30 qts. 


3 >2 oz. 

Yz OZ. 
Y OZ. 
Yz OZ. 

Y\ OZ. 
30 qts. 


G. Cologne Water. 


Oil of bergamot. 1 lb. 

Oil of lemon. 1 lb. 

Oil of lavender. 6Y oz. 

Oil of neroli. Y oz. 

Oil of petit grain. 1^ oz. 

Oil of orange peel. 1 lb. 

Oil of rosemary.150 grains. 

Alcohol . 30 qts. 
































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


183 


H. Cologne Water. 


Oil of bergamot. 2^ oz. 

Oil of cajuput. y 2 oz. 

Oil of lemon. 414 oz. 

Oil of lavender. 6 l / 2 oz. 

Oil of neroli. 2^ oz. 

Oil of orange peel. 4 y 2 oz. 

Oil of petit grain. y 2 oz. 

Orange-flower water. 1 qt. 

Alcohol . 30 qts. 


The numerous formulas show that oils of lemon, bergamot, 
and orange form normal constituents of every Cologne water; 
the finer grades always contain, in addition, oils of rosemary 
and neroli. It is advisable to dissolve the aromatics in very 
strong alcohol and then to effect the dilution required with 
orange-flower or rose water. This dilution is also to be em¬ 
ployed when a cheaper product is desired. 


Lavender Perfumes. 

English (Mitcham) oil of lavender should always be used 
when it is desired to produce perfumes of first quality. 


Eau de Lavande Ambree. 


Oil of bergamot 
Oil of lemon. . . 
Oil of geranium 
Oil of lavender. 

Musk. 

Peru balsam . . . 

Storax. 

Civet.. 

Alcohol . 


1 oz. 
x /z oz. 

75 grains. 

5 % oz - 
8 grains. 

2 oz. 

4^ oz. 

15 grains. 
10 qts. 


The essential oils are dissolved in the alcohol, the other 
substances are macerated in the solution for one month, and 
the liquid decanted. 




















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


184 


Eau de Lavande Double. 


Tincture of musk. 3 fl. oz. 

Tincture of vanilla. 3 fl. oz. 

Tincture of civet. 3 fl. oz. 

Oil of bergamot. 1% oz. 

Oil of lemon. ^ oz. 

Oil of lavender. 3^ oz. 

Rose water (triple). 1 qt. 

Alcohol. 10 qts. 


Eau de Lavande a Mille Fleurs. 

Tincture of ambergris. 

Essence of lavender.. 

Eau de mille fleurs (see below, page 186). . 


pint. 
2 qts. 

2 qts. 


Leap-year Bouquet. 

Extract of jasmine. 

Essence of patchouly.. 

Essence of santal. 

Extract of tuberose. 

Extract of verbena. 

Essence of vetiver.. 

Essence of rose (triple). 


3 pints. 
i t /2 pints. 
1 y?, pints. 
1 qt. 

6^2 fl. oz. 
1^2 pints. 
1 ^2 pints. 


Eau de Leipsic. 


Oil of lemon. ^ oz. 

Oil of neroli. ^ oz. 

Oil of orange peel.150 grains. 

Oil of bergamot. 2% oz. 

Oil of rosemary. 75 grains. 

Orange-flower water. 1 qt. 

Alcohol. 9 pints. 


Wallflower (Extrait de Girofle). 


Extract of cassie. 1 pint. 

Extract of orange flower. 1 qt. 

Extract of rose. 1 qt. 

Tincture of vanilla. 1 pint. 

Tincture of orris root. 1 pint. 

Oil of bitter almond. 8 grains. 
































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


I8 5 


Lily (Extrait de Lys). 


Extract of cassic. 2 pints. 

Extract of jasmine. 13^2 fl. oz. 

Extract of orange flower. 27 fl. oz. 

Extract of rose. 1 pint. 

Extract of tuberose. 3 qts. 

Tincture of vanilla. 40 fl. oz. 

Oil of bitter almond. 30 grains. 

Eau de Lisbonne. 

Oil of lemon. 2^ oz. 

Oil of orange peel. 4^ oz. 

Oil of rose. ^ oz. 

Alcohol . 5 qts. 

Magnolia (Extrait de Magnolia). 

Extract of orange flower. 2 qts. 

Extract of rose. 4 qts. 

Extract of tuberose. 1 qt. 

Extract of violet. 1 qt. 

Oil of bitter almond. 40 grains. 

Oil of lemon. 15 grains. 


Lily of the Valley. 


Oil of bitter almond. .•.150 grains. 

Extract of jasmine. 7 oz. 

Extract of neroli. 7 oz. 

Extract of cassie. 14 oz. 

Extract of tuberose. 28 oz. 

Alcohol. 28 oz. 

Lily of the Valley Extract. 

Extract of jasmine. oz. 

Extract of ylang-ylang (see below, p. 198). Y /z oz. 

Cardamom seed, crushed. 75 grains. 

Oil of orris. 10 drops. 

Macerate for a week, and filter. 


The amount of cardamom seed is to be weighed exactly; 




























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


186 

should its odor still be too pronounced, extract of jasmine 
should be gradually added until the right aroma is obtained. 

Bouquet a la Marechale. 


Tincture of ambergris. ^ pint. 

Tincture of musk. y 2 pint. 

Extract of neroli. i pint. 

Extract of orange flower. i qt. 

Tincture of tonka. i pint. 

Tincture of vanilla. i pint. 

Tincture of orris root. i pint. 

Essence of vetiver... i pint. 

Essence of rose (triple). i qt. 

Oil of clove. 75 grains. 

Oil of santal. 75 grains. 


A la Mode. 


Extract of cassie. 1 qt. 

Extract of jasmine. 1 qt. 

Extract of orange flower. 1 qt. 

Extract of tuberose. 1 qt. 

Tincture of civet. 1 pint. 

Oil of bitter almond. 75 grains. 

Oil of nutmeg. 60 grains. 


A. Eau de Mille Fleurs. 


Extract of cassie. 1 pint. 

Essence of cedar. 1 pint. 

Extract of jasmine. 1 pint. 

Tincture of musk. 6 fl. oz. 

Extract of neroli. 1 pint. 

Extract of patchouly. 1 pint. 

Tincture of vanilla. 1 pint. 

Extract of violet. 1 pint. 

Essence of vetiver. 1 pint. 

Tincture of civet. 6 fl. oz. 

Oil of lemon. y 2 oz. 

Oil of geranium. y oz. 

Oil of lavender. y oz. 

Oil of orange peel. y 2 oz. 


































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


18; 


B. Eau de Mille Fleurs. 


Extract of cassie. 1 pint. 

Tincture of ambergris. y, pint. 

Essence of cedar. y 2 pint. 

Extract of jasmine. 1 pint. 

Tincture of musk. y 2 pint. 

Extract of orange flower. 1 pint. 

Extract of rose. 1 pint. 

Extract of tuberose. 1 pint. 

Tincture of vanilla.. pint. 

Extract of violet. 1 pint. 

Essence of rose (simple). 1 qt. 

Oil of bergamot. i~y oz. 

Oil of bitter almond. 24 grains. 

Oil of clove. 24 grains. 

Oil of neroli. 24 grains. 


C. Eau de Mille Fleurs a.Palmarose. 


Extract of cassie. 6 fl. oz. 

Essence of cedar. 3 fl. oz. 

Tincture of musk. 3 fl. oz. 

Extract of violet. 6 fl. oz. 

Oil of bergamot. 1^2 oz. 

Oil of cedar. 1^ oz. 

Oil of lemon. y oz. 

Oil of lavender. % oz. 

Oil of clove. y oz. 

Oil of palmarosa. oz. 

Alcohol. 9 pints. 


Fleurs de Montpellier. 


Tincture of ambergris. 10 fl. oz. 

Tincture of musk. 10 fl. oz. 

Extract of rose. 3 pi nts - 

Extract of tuberose. 3 pi nts - 

Essence of rose (triple). 3 pints. 

Oil of bergamot. 1^ oz. 

Oil of clove. y oz - 



































188 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Fleurs des Champs. 


Extract of cassie. 

Extract of jasmine. 

Tincture of musk. 

Tincture of tonka. 

Tincture of orris root. 

Oil of geranium.. 

Oil of neroli.. . v*. 

Oil of rose. 

Alcohol.. . 

• N 

Huile de Mille Fleurs. 

(For perfuming hair oils and pomades.) 

Oil of cinnamon. . 

Oil of neroli. 

Oil of rose. 

Oil of clove. 

Oil of orange peel 
Oil of calamus.. . 

Oil of geranium. . 

Oil of lemon .... 

Oil of bergamot. . 

Oil of verbena. . . 

Musk (Extrait de Muse). 


Tincture of ambergris. 3 pints. 

Tincture of musk. 3 qts. 

Extract of rose. 1^2 pints. 

Mousseline. 

Extract of cassie. 1 qt. 

Extract of jasmine. 1 qt 

Extract of rose. 1 qt. 

Extract of tuberose. 1 qt. 

Bouquet a la marechale. 2 qts. 

Oil of santal. ^ oz. 


10 drops. 
20 drops. 
20 drops. 

15 grains. 
20 drops. 
150 grains. 
^ oz. 
2^2 oz. 
75 grains. 


3/^ oz. 
3/^ oz. 

3H oz - 

3 pints. 
7 oz. 
1 % oz. 
1 ^2 oz. 
oz. 

3 q^. 


\ 






























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


189 


Myrtle (Extrait de Myrthe). 


Extract of jasmine. 

Extract of orange flower 

Extract of rose. 

Extract of tuberose. 

Tincture of vanilla. 


/4 pint. 

1 qt. 

2 qts. 

1 qt. 

1 qt. 


Narcissus (Extrait de Narcisse). 


Extract of jonquille. 2 qts. 

Extract of tuberose. 3 qts. 

Tincture of storax. y 2 pint. 

Tincture of tolu. . y 2 pint. 


Navy’s Nosegay. 


Extract of rose. 1 qt. 

Extract of orange flower. 1 qt. 

Essence of patchouly. 3 fl. oz. 

Extract of verbena. 6 fl. oz. 

Essence of vetiver. 6 fl. oz. 

Oil of bitter almond.150 grains. 

Oil of citronella. y oz. 

Oil of nutmeg. 75 grains. 


New-Mown Hay. 


Tonka beans, in pieces. 75 grains. 

Orris root.150 grains. 

Vanillin . 8 grains. 

Oil of bergamot. 30 drops. 

Oil of neroli. 2 drops. 

Oil of rose. 2 drops. 

Oil of lavender. 2 drops. 

Oil of clove. 1 drop. 

Patchouly herb. 3 grains. 

Benzoic acid. 8 grains. 

Nettle herb. 30 grains. 

Alcohol.. • • oz. 


Digest for two weeks, and filter. 































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


I9O 


Pink (Extrait d’CEillet). 


Extract of cassie. 2^ pints. 

Extract of orange flower. 2^ pints. 

Extract of rose. 5 pints. 

Tincture of vanilla. 20 fl. oz. 

Oil of clove. 75 grains. 


Essence of Sweet Pea. 


Extract of tuberose. 1 qt. 

Extract of orange flower. 1 qt. 

Extract of rose. 1 qt. 

Tincture of vanilla. 5^ oz. 


Polyanthus. 

Extract of rose.. . . ... 

Extract of jasmine. 

Extract of violet. 

Tincture of musk. 

Oil of neroli. 

Oil of lemon. 

Alcohol. 

Eau du Portugal. 


Oil of bergamot. 1 oz. 

Oil of lemon. 2^ oz. 

Oil of orange peel. y 2 lb. 

Oil of rose. y oz. 

Alcohol.5 qts. 


1 qt. 

1 pint. 

% pint. 

2*4 fl . drachms. 

?4 ° z - 

Y\ oz- 

2 qts. 


Queen Victoria’s Perfume. 


Extract of cassie. 10 fl. oz. 

Extract of rose. 5 pints. 

Extract of orange flower . 20 fl. oz. 

Extract of tuberose. 2^2 pints. 

Extract of violet. 5 pints. 

Tincture of civet. 3 fl. oz. 

Oil of bergamot. y oz. 

Oil of citron.150 grains. 































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


I 9 I 

Patchouly (Extrait de Patchouli). 

Oil of patchouly. i }4 oz. 

Oil of rose.150 grains. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 

Essence of Reseda. 

(Artificial, almost indistinguishable from the genuine.) 

Tonka beans, in pieces. 30 grains. 

Storax, liquid. 15 grains. 

Orris root. 1^ oz. 

Oil of neroli. 10 drops. 

Oil of rose. 10 drops. 

Oil of bitter almond. 2 drops. 

Oil of bergamot. 20 drops. 

Ambergris. 15 grains. 

Musk. 8 grains. 

Nettle herb. 30 grains. 

Alcohol. y 2 lb. 

Macerate for from one to two weeks, and filter. 

Rondeletia Odoratissima. 

Tincture of ambergris. 4^ oz. 

Tincture of musk. 4 % oz. 

Tincture of vanilla. 4^ oz. 

Oil of bergamot. 1 oz. 

Oil of lavender. 2^ oz. 

Oil of clove. 1 % oz. 

Oil of rose. 75 grains. 

Alcohol. 4 qts. 

The odor of Rondeletia has not thus far been isolated, at 
least in Europe (the plant is indigenous to the Antilles). The 
oils of lavender and clove together constitute the odor known 
in perfumery as Rondeletia. By increasing the quantity of 
the two oils, the strength of the perfume may be height¬ 
ened. 
























192 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Royal Nosegay. 


Tincture of ambergris. 2^ oz. 

Extract of jasmine. 1 qt. 

Tincture of musk. 3 fl. oz. 

Extract of rose. 1 qt. 

Tincture of vanilla. Y pint. 

Extract of violet. 1 qt. 

Essence of vetiver. Y pint. 

Oil of bergamot. 75 grains. 

Oil of clove. 1% oz* 


Rose Odors. 

The art of perfumery has endeavored to fix this most 
magnificent of all odors, and we must confess that in this case 
it has succeeded in solving the problem in a manner unequalled 
in any other perfume. We are able to imitate not only the 
pure rose odor, but also those of its several varieties such as 
the tea rose, moss rose, etc., both as to character and inten¬ 
sity. Fine rose odors can be produced in their full fragrance 
only from pomade extracts; the various rose oils furnish in¬ 
ferior products. 

Rosa Centifolia, A (Finest Quality).. 


Essence of rose (triple). 1 qt. 

Rose pomade. 8 lbs. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


Rose, B (less fine). 


Oil of rose. 3^ oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


China Rose (Roses Jaunes). 


Essence of rose (triple). 2 qts. 

Tincture of tonka. pint. 

Extract of tuberose. 2 qts. 

Extract of verbena. pint. 




















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


x 93 


Dog Rose (Eglantine). 

Extract of cassie. 

Extract of orange flower. 

Extract of rose. 

Essence of rose (triple). 

Oil of lemongrass.,. 

Oil of neroli. 

Moss Rose (Rose Mousseuse). 


Extract of rose. 2 qts. 

Extract of orange flower. 1 qt. 

Essence of rose (triple). 1 qt. 

Tincture of ambergris. 1 pint. 

Tincture of musk. lb. 


Tea Rose (Rose Tiiea). 

Extract of rose. 

Extract of geranium. 

Extract of orange flower. 

Essence of rose (triple). 

Extract of santal. 

Tincture of orris root. 

White Rose (Roses Blanches). 


Extract of rose. 1 qt. 

Extract of jasmine. 1 pint. 

Extract of violet. 1 qt. 

Essence of patchouly. pint. 

Essence of rose (triple). 1 qt. 

White Rose. 

Oil of rose. 15 drops. 

Patchouly herb. 3 grains. 

Musk. 3 grains. 

Cologne spirit. 7 oz. 


1 qt. 

1 qt. 

^2 pint. 
1 qt. 



2}4 pints. 
2% pints. 
5 pints. 
2}4 pints. 
X oz. 

% oz. 


Twin Rose (Roses Jumelles). 


Extract of rose. 5 qts. 

Oil of rose. oz. 

13 






























194 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Spring Nosegay. 


Extract of cassie.. i qt. 

Tincture of ambergris. 13^2 fl. oz. 

Essence of geranium. 1 qt. 

Extract of jasmine. 1 qt. 

Extract of orange flower. 2 qts. 

Tincture of musk... 10 fl. oz. 


Suave. 


Extract of cassie. 1 qt. 

Tincture of ambergris.. .. % pint. 

Extract of jasmine. 1 qt. 

Tincture of musk. pint. 

Extract of rose. 1 qt. 

Extract of tuberose. 1 qt. 

Tincture of vanilla. pint. 

Oil of bergamot. ^ oz. 

Oil of clove. 30 grains. 

Oil of mace. 30 grains. 


Heliotrope Bouquet (Fleurs Solsticiales). 


Extract of cassie. 

Tincture of ambergris. 
Extract of jasmine. . . . 

Tincture of musk. 

Extract of rose. 

Extract of violet. 

Extract of verbena. . . . 
Essence of rose (triple) 

Oil of bergamot. 

Oil of lemon. 


13^ fl. oz. 
5 fl. oz. 
2^2 pints. 
5 fl. oz. 

5 pints. 
2]/z pints. 
1^/2 fl. oz. 
2)4 pints. 
l l /2 oz. 

I V2 oz. 


Bouquet de Stamboul. 


Extract of rose. 

Extract of cassie. . . 
Extract of jasmine . 
Extract of tuberose. 
Tincture of civet. . . 
Oil of bitter almond 


2^4 pints. 
1 qt. 

1 qt. 

1 pint, 
pint. 
150 grains. 


































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 195 

Syringa. 

Extract of reseda. 1^ oz. 

Extract of violet. 3^ oz. 

Patchouly herb. 5 grains. 

Benzoic acid. . 8 grains. 

Oil of orris. 10 drops. 

Alcohol. 1% oz. 

Tulipe Odoriferante. 

Extract of cassie. 6 fl. oz. 

Extract of jasmine. 1 qt. 

Extract of rose. 1 pint. 

Extract of tuberose.. 1 qt. 

Tincture of orris root. 1 qt. 

Oil of bitter almond. 15 grains. 

Oil of neroli. .. 30 grains. 

Hungarian Water (Eau Hongroise). 

Extract of orange flower. 1 pint. 

Essence of rose (triple). 1 pint. 

Oil of lemon. 1 oz. 

Oil of melissa.. 1 oz. 

Oil of peppermint. 30 grains. 

Oil of rosemary. 2 oz. 

Alcohol (from wine). 5 qts. 

Bouquet de Virginie. 

Essence of geranium. 1 pint. 

Tincture of musk. 1 qt. 

Extract of orange flow r er. 1 qt. 

Extract of santal. 1 pint. 

Tincture of tonka. 1 qt. 

Tincture of vanilla. 1 qt. 

Essence of rose (triple). 1 pint. 

Violet (Violettes). 

Violet pomade. 6 to 7 lb. 

Extract of cassie. 6 fl. oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 

% 1 

( 
































196 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


This is the finest among the true violet perfumes. Less 
fine, though still of prime quality, is the following: 


Extract of cassie. 2 qts. 

Extract of rose. 1 qt. 

Extract of tuberose. 1 qt. 

Tincture of orris root. 1 qt. 

Oil of bitter almond. 15 grains. 

K 


Verbena A (Extrait de Verveine). 


Oil of lemon grass. ^ oz. 

Oil of lemon. 14 oz. 

Oil of orange peel.. oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


A cheap and pleasant perfume; the following is far su¬ 
perior . 


Verbena B. 


Oil of lemon. 10^ oz. 

Oil of lemon grass. 6 oz. 

Oil of orange peel. 5 oz. 

Extract of orange flower. 2 lb. 

Extract of rose. 3 lb. 

Extract of tuberose. 2 lb. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


This “Extract of Verbena B ” is a modification of that 
given previously, on page 164. 


Extrait de Verveine C. 


Extract of orange flower. 30 fl. oz. 

Extract of rose. 1 qt. 

Extract of tuberose... 30 fl. oz. 

Oil of lemon. 1 oz. 

Oil of lemon grass. ^ oz. 

Oil of orange peel. lb. 

Alcohol. 4 Ej pints. 

























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


19 7 


VlOLETTES DES MONTAGNES. 


Extract of cassie. 13% fl. oz. 

Extract of jasmine. r 3/^ A* oz. 

Extract of rose. 13^ fl. oz. 

Extract of violet. 2 qts. 

Tincture of orris root. 13*4 fl. oz. 

Oil of bitter almond. 30 grains. 

V OLCAMERIA. 

Extract of jasmine. 1 pint. 

Extract of rose. 1 qt. 

Extract of tuberose. 2 qts. 

Extract of violet. 2 qts. 

Tincture of musk. pint. 

Forest Breeze (Pine-Needle Odor.) 

Oil of turpentine. 14 oz. 

Oil of lavender. 1 )4 oz. 

Oil of lemon grass. 3 ^ oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 


The oil of turpentine must be clear like water, and most 
carefully rectified. If it can be obtained of good quality, the 
oil distilled from the leaves or needles of Pinus sylvestris, 
commonly known as pine-needle oil or fir-wool oil, is to be 
preferred for this purpose. Still better is the oil obtained 
from Pinus Pumilio. 

West End. 


Extract of cassie. 1 qt. 

Tincture of ambergris. pint. 

Extract of jasmine. 1 qt. 

Tincture of musk. % pint. 

Extract of tuberose. 1 qt. 

Extract of violet. 1 qt. 

Essence of rose (triple). 3 pints. 

Oil of bergamot. 1 oz. 

Oil of lemon. 75 grains 


























198 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


WlNTERGREEN. 

Extract of cassie. 1 qt. 

Tincture of ambergris. 1 pint. 

Extract of lavender. 1 pint. 

Extract of orange flower. 1 qt. 

Extract of rose. 2 qts. 

Tincture of vanilla. 1 pint. 

Essence of vetiver. 1 pint. 

Flowers of the Isle of Wight. 

Extract of rose. 1 qt. 

Extract of santal. 2 qts. 

Tincture of orris root. 1 qt. 

Essence of vetiver. 1 pint. 

Yacht Club. 

Extract of cassie. 6 fl. oz. 

Extract of jasmine. 1 qt. 

Extract of orange flower. 2 qts. 

Extract of santal. 2 qts. 

Tincture of vanilla. 1 pint. 

Essence of rose (triple). 1 qt. 

Benzoic acid, sublimed. 1^ oz. 

The characteristic odor of this perfume depends upon the 
volatile oil adhering to the sublimed benzoic acid; for this 
reason no other benzoic acid should be used than that ob¬ 
tained by sublimation. 

Ylang-Ylang. 

Cologne water. 4 qts. 

Essence of rose (triple). 1 qt. 

Tincture of vanilla. 3^ oz. 

Tincture of tolu. 14 oz. 

Oil of neroli. 75 grains. 

Oil of ylang-ylang. ^ oz. 

Appendix. 

The great majority of the above-described perfumes are 
made with extracts prepared from pomades; hence their cost 


























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


I99 


of production is considerable and the selling-price high. For 
the requirements of the middle classes, quite fragrant per¬ 
fumes are manufactured by dissolving the cheaper essential 
oils in ordinary alcohol, and various new odors can be ob¬ 
tained by mixing several of them. The extracts made with 
cheap oils are well suited to this purpose. The oils most fre¬ 
quently used for such articles are those of bergamot, lemon, 
orange peel, lavender flowers (French), lemon grass, nutmeg, 
clove, and santal. The alcohol must be free from fusel oil 
and have a strength of at least 70$ Tralles. 

Oils with not very intense odor are generally used in the 
proportion of about 2 to 2^4 ounces to the quart of alcohol; 
half that quantity will suffice for strong-scented oils such as 
those of lemon-grass, clove, and nutmeg. 

From these simple solutions an experienced manufacturer 
can produce very nice perfumes by mixing them in due pro¬ 
portions; they are comparatively cheap, and sometimes they 
yield relatively more profit than the finest articles, whose con¬ 
tents and containers generally represent a considerable outlay 
on the part of the manufacturer. 


CHAPTER XV. - 

AM MON I AC AL AND ACID PERFUMES. 

A. Ammoniacal Perfumes. 

Ammonia (ammonia water) has a disagreeable odor and 
exerts a very caustic effect on the lachrymal glands. Despite 
these properties, ammonia, in a highly dilute condition and 
mixed with other aromatics, finds manifold application in per¬ 
fumery and serves particularly for the manufacture of the so- 
called smelling salts, or inexhaustible salts, used for filling 
smelling bottles. 



200 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


The liquid or caustic ammonia, however, is not so suitable 
for the purposes of the perfumer as the carbonate of ammonia, 
which when pure forms colorless crystals usually covered with 
a white dust (consisting of bicarbonate of ammonia); these, 
undergoing gradual decomposition, give off the odor of am¬ 
monia and hence are more lasting in smelling bottles than 
the pure liquid ammonia. 

The main essential for both of these substances is purity. 
Caustic ammonia as well as carbonate of ammonia are now 
obtained on a large/scale from “gas liquor,” but the crude 
products always retain some of the penetrating odor of coal 
tar which renders them valueless for the purposes of the per¬ 
fumer. We must, therefore, make it a rule to use nothing 
but perfectly pure materials which, moreover, are easily to be 
had in the market. 

4 

Inexhaustible Salt (Sel Inepuisable). 


Oil of bergamot. 24 grains. 

Oil of lavender. 45 grains. 

Oil of mace. 24 grains. 

Oil of clove. 24 grains. 

Oil of rosemary. 45 grains. 

Water of ammonia... 1 qt. 


The aromatics are placed in a bottle, the ammonia is added, 
and the bottle vigorously shaken ; the solution is soon effected, 
and the turbid liquid can be at once filled into bottles. 

According to the material from which the containers are 
made, different methods must be adopted. It is necessary 
to give the liquid such form as to prevent its flowing out 
when the vessel is inverted; this is important, as the bottles 
are often carried in dress pockets and the ammonia de¬ 
stroys most colors. As a rule the vessels are filled with 
indifferent porous substances which are moistened with 
the perfume. If the container is made of box v r ood, ivory, 
porcelain, or some other opaque material, it is filled with fibres 








PERFUMES ANI) THEIR PREPARATION. 


201 


of asbestos or with very small pieces of sponge, and as much 
perfume is poured in as the substance can take up; the ves¬ 
sels are then inverted into a porcelain plate and allowed to 
drain, and are finally closed with a loose plug of cotton. If 
the container is transparent, it is better to use, instead of the 
asbestos or sponge which do not look neat, either small pieces 
of white pumice stone, powdered glass, small white glass beads, 
or crystals of sulphate of potassium which is insoluble in the 
perfume. 

White Smelling Salt (Sel Blanc Parfume). 

While the first-named ammoniacal preparation is called a 
salt, it is really nothing but perfumed caustic ammonia; but 
white smelling salt is what its name indicates and can be per¬ 
fumed as desired by the consumer; but as only certain scents 
harmonize with ammonia, not every odor can be employed; 
the most appropriate are oils whose odor resembles that of 
rose, and the oils of nutmeg and cinnamon. 

Mix in a large porcelain jar— 


Carbonate of ammonia. 2 lb. 

Caustic ammonia. .... 1 lb. 


Cover the jar and leave it at rest. After some days the 
mixture will have changed into a firm mass of monocarbonate 
of ammonia which is rubbed to a coarse powder, perfumed, 
and filled into bottles. The above quantities require: 


Oil of bergamot. 15 grains. 

Oil of lavender. 15 grains. 

Oil of nutmeg. 8 grains. 

Oil of clove. 8 grains. 

Oil of rose. 8 grains. 

Oil of cinnamon. 75 grains. 


The oils are poured into a mortar and rubbed up with 
about one-tenth of the salt; of this perfumed salt enough is 
added to the several portions of the mass, and triturated until 










202 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


the odor is equally distributed. For cheaper smelling salts 
oils of geranium and cassia may be substituted for the oils of 
rose and cinnamon. 

Preston Salt (Sel Volatil). 

In this perfume ammonia is continually generated; the 
salt is prepared by mixing chloride of ammonium or sal-am¬ 
moniac in fine powder with freshly slaked lime. Fine or 
cheap perfume is added, according to the grade desired. 
The mixture of sal-ammoniac and slaked lime continually de¬ 
velops small amounts of ammonia—it takes a long time until 
the decomposition is complete, and for this reason a bottle 
filled with Preston salt retains the odor of ammonia for seve¬ 
ral years. 


Eau de Luce. 

This is the only ammoniacal perfume used in a liquid 
form. It is made according to the following formula: 


Tincture of ambergris. io^ oz. 

Tincture of benzoin. ^2 lb. 

Oil of lavender.150 grains. 

Water of ammonia. \V 2 lb. 


The tinctures are mixed with the ammonia by agitation 
and immediately filled into bottles; the liquid should have a 
milky appearance. At times 150 grains of white soap is added 
which aids in imparting to the liquid the desired milky ap¬ 
pearance. In fine eau de Luce the odor of ambergris should 
predominate; this can be easily effected by increasing the 
amount of tincture of ambergris. 

B. Acid Perfumes. 

As there is a group of perfumes which is distinguished by 
their characteristic odor of ammonia and which we have there¬ 
fore called ammoniacal, so there is an important series of arti- 






PERFUMES. AND THEIR PREPARATION. 203 

cles containing acetic acid which are used cosmetically as 
so-called toilet vinegars, and in some washes. 

Ordinary vinegar, i.e., water containing four to six per 
cent of acetic acid, has, as is well known, a not unpleasant 
refreshing odor and a pure acid taste. Pure acetic acid, now 
made in large quantities and of excellent quality, is known 
commercially as glacial acetic acid. In commerce, it is cus¬ 
tomary to designate any acetic acid containing 85 or more 
per cent of the absolute acid, as glacial acetic acid. In chem¬ 
ical or pharmacopoeial nomenclature, however, the glacial acid 
is meant to be as near 100$ as possible. In perfumery, an 85$ 
acid is sufficiently strong. It forms a colorless liquid with a 
narcotic odor and an intensely acid taste; it congeals into 
glassy crystals at a temperature of 8.5° C. (47° F.). The latter 
property is of importance as showing the purity of the acid. 
Concentrated acetic acid, like alcohol, dissolves aromatic sub¬ 
stances, with which it forms perfumes which differ from those 
made with alcohol mainly by their peculiar refreshing after¬ 
odor which is due to the acetic acid. 

Acetic acid can be saturated with various odors and thus 
furnish fine perfumes; but for so-called toilet vinegars which 
are used as washes the acetic acid must be properly diluted, 
since the concentrated acid has pronounced caustic properties, 
reddens the skin, and may even produce destructive effects 
on sensitive parts such as the lips. 

Aromatic Vinegar (Vinaigre Aromatique). 


Glacial acetic acid. 2 lb. 

Camphor. 4 V\ oz - 

Oil of lavender. Y\ oz. 

Oil of mace.15° grains. 

Oil of rosemary.150 grains. 


Instead of the perfumes here given, finer odors may be 
employed for the production of superior toilet vinegars ; thus 







204 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

we find vinaigre ambre, au muse, a la violette, au jasmin, etc., 
according to the perfume used. As concentrated acetic acid 
dissolves most aromatic substances the same as alcohol, all 
alcoholic perfumes may have their counterparts in acetic acid; 
but the aromatics should never be added in so large amount 
as to mask the characteristic odor of the acetic acid. A very 
pleasant vinegar may be produced by combining an alcoholic 
with an acid perfume, as in the following: 

Spiced Vinegar (Vinaigre aux Epices). 
i. Macerate: 

Leaves of geranium, lavender, pepper¬ 


mint, rosemary, and sage, of each.. . i oz. 

In alcohol of 80$. i lb. 

2. Macerate: 

Angelica root, calamus root, camphor, 

mace, nutmeg, cloves, of each. oz. 

In glacial acetic acid. 2 lb. 


for two weeks, mix the liquids, and filter them into a bottle 
which should not be completely filled. The longer this mix¬ 
ture is allowed to season in the bottle, the finer will be the 
aroma; for in the course of time the alcohol and acetic acid 
react on each other and form acetic ether, which likewise pos¬ 
sesses a pleasant aromatic odor. 

Certain aromatic vinegars, like ammoniacal perfumes, are 
filled into smelling bottles containing the same porous sub¬ 
stances for their absorption, namely, sponge, pumice stone, 
crystals of potassium sulphate, etc. 

FORMULAS FOR TOILET VINEGARS. 
Vinaigre a la Rose. 


Essence of rose (triple). 10 *4 oz. 

White-wine vinegar. 1 qt. 


This should be colored a pale rose tint with one of the dye¬ 
stuffs to be enumerated hereafter. The use of true wine vine- 







PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


205 


gar is to be recommended for this and all the following toilet 
vinegars, as the oenanthic ether it contains has a favorable 
effect on the fineness of the odor. 

VINAIGRE AUX FLEURS D’ORANGES. 

Extract of orange flower. 7 oz. 

White-wine vinegar. 1 qt. 

This is usually left colorless. 

VINAIGRE AUX VlOLETTES. 


Extract of cassie. 8 oz. 

Extract of orange flower. 3^ oz. 

Tincture of orris root. 5 y 2 oz. 

Essence of rose (triple). 5^2 oz. 

White-wine vinegar. 1 qt. 

i 


VINAIGRE DE QUATRE VOLEURS. 
Leaves of lavender, peppermint, rue, rose¬ 


mary, and cinnamon, of each. 3^ oz. 

Calamus, mace, nutmeg, of each.150 grains. 

Camphor. ^ oz. 

Macerated in alcohol. 7 oz. 

And acetic acid. lb. 


Preventive Vinegar (Vinaigre Hygienique). 


Benzoin . 2*^ oz. 

Lavender. ^ oz. 

Cloves.150 grains. 

Marjoram. ^ oz. 

Cinnamon.150 grains. 

Alcohol. 1 qt. 

White-wine vinegar. 2 qts. 


Macerate the solids with the alcohol and vinegar. 

Vinaigre de Cologne. 


Cologne water. 1 qt. 

Glacial acetic acid.«. 1^ oz 























20 6 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

As this vinegar is made by mixing an alcoholic perfume 
with acetic acid, so all other alcoholic perfumes may be em¬ 
ployed for a like purpose; but the quantities must be deter¬ 
mined by experiment, for the various aromatics differ in the 
intensity of their odor. 

VINAIGRE ETHERE. 


Glacial acetic acid. 14 oz. 

Acetic ether. 1^ oz. 

Nitrous ether. ^ oz. 

Water. 5 qts. 


The water should be added after the ethers have been dis¬ 
solved in the glacial acetic acid. 

VINAIGRE DE LAVANDE. 


Lavender water. 4 qts'. 

Rose water. 1 pint. 

Glacial acetic acid. lb. 


To be stained a bluish color with indigo-carmine. 
Orange-Flower Vinegar. 


Orange-flower water. 4 qts. 

Glacial acetic acid. 7 oz. 


Mallard’s Toilet Vinegar. 


Tincture of benzoin. i }4 oz. 

Tincture of tolu. i l / 2 oz. 

Oil of bergamot..150 grains. 

Oil of lemon.150 grains. 

Oil of neroli. 30 grains. 

Oil of orange peel. y 2 oz. 

Oil of lavender. 15 grains. 

Oil of rosemary... 15 grains. 

tincture of musk. 13 grains. 

Concentrated acetic acid. 21 oz. 

Alcohol. 4^ lb. 






















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


2C 7 


Toilet Vinegar (French Formula). 


Oil of bergamot. grains. 

Oil of lemon. 30 grains. 

Oil of rose. 8 drops. 

Oil of neroli. 5 drops. 

Benzoin. 75 grains. 

Vanillin. 15 grains. 

Concentrated acetic acid. 14 0 z. 

Alcohol. 14 lb. 


Macerate for two weeks, and filter. 

Vinaigre Polyanthe. 


Glacial acetic acid. 7 oz. 

Tincture of benzoin. 1% oz. 

Tincture of tolu. 1^ oz. 

Oil of neroli./.150 grains. 

Oil of geranium. 150 grains. 

Water. 2 qts. 


To be stained with tincturb of krameria (rhatany). 


CHAPTER XVI. 

DRY PERFUMES. 

As a matter of course, dry perfumes are of greater anti¬ 
quity than fluid; aromatic substances require merely to be 
dried in order to retain their fragrance permanently. The 
oldest civilized people known in history—Egyptians, Assy¬ 
rians, Persians, Babylonians, and the Jews, as numerous pas¬ 
sages in the Bible prove—used dried portions of plants, leaves, 
flowers, and resins as perfumes and incense. 

To this day there is kept up quite a trade in Valeriana 
celtica, a strong-scented Alpine plant, and in powdered amber, 
with the Orient, where they are used for scent bags and in- 

















208 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATIONS 


cense respectively. The Catholic Church retains to the 
present time the Jewish rite of burning incense, and in our 
museums will be found urns, taken from Egyptian graves, from 
which pleasant odors escape even now after nearly four thou¬ 
sand years, owing to the aromatic resins with which they are 
filled. It is said, too, that the delightful volatile odors of our 
handkerchief perfumes were first prepared by an Italian named 
Frangipanni conceiving the idea of treating a dry mixture of 
different aromatic plants with alcohol and thus imparting the 
odor they contained to the latter. 

Not all aromatics can be made into sachet powders; it is 
well known that the delightful odor of violets changes into a 
positively disagreeable smell when the flowers are dried, and 
the same remark applies to the blossoms of the lily of the 
valley, mignonette, lily, and most of our fragrant plants. On 
the other hand, some portions of plants, especially those in 
which the odorous principle is contained not only in the 
flower but in all parts of the plant, as in the mints, sage, and 
most Labiatae, remain fragrant for a long time after drying 
and hence can be employed for sachets. Besides the plants 
named, lavender, rose leaves, the leaves of the lemon and 
orange tree, Acacia farnesiana, patchouly herb, and some other 
plants continue fragrant after drying. 

Any vegetable substance to be used for sachets must be 
completely dried so as to prevent mould. The drying should 
be effected in a warm, shady place, sometimes in heated cham¬ 
bers ; direct sunlight and excessive heat injure the strength 
of the odor, a portion of the aromatics becoming resinified 
and volatilized. If artificial heat is employed, a temperature 
between 40 and 45 0 C. (104-113° F.) is most suitable. 

The external form of this class of preparations varies of 
course with the public for which it is intended. Expensive 
sachets are sold in silk bags with different ornamentation; 
those intended for the Orient are generally put up as small silk 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


209 


cushions richly ornamented with gold and colors to suit Ori¬ 
ental taste. Cheap sachets are sold in envelopes or in round 
boxes. It is customary to have the ingredients ground or 
finely powdered, for which purpose small hand-mills will 
generally suffice. 


CHAPTER XVII. 

FORMULAS FOR DRY PERFUMES (SACHETS). 


Ceylon Sachet Powder. 


Mace. 

Patchouly. 

Yetiver root. 

Oil of orange peel 
Oil of peppermint 


23 oz. 
28 oz. 

35 oz. 
oz 
3 j A oz 


Cyprian Sachet Powder. 


Cedar wood. . . 

Rhodium. 

Santal wood.. 
Oil of rhodium 


2 lb. 

2 lb. 

2 lb. 

V2, oz. 


The oil is mixed with the finely powdered or rasped woods 
and distributed in the mass by trituration. 


Field Flower Sachet Powder. 


Calamus root 
Caraway 
Lavender .. . 
Marjoram .. . 

Musk. 

Cloves. 

Peppermint. . 
Rose leaves.. 
Rosemary.. . 
Thyme. 

14 


1 lb. 

lb. 

1 lb. 

/^2 lb. 

30 grains. 

2 oz. 
/4 lb. 

1 lb. 

3 % oz. 
% lb. 
























210 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Frangipanni Sachet Powder. 


Musk. 

Sage. 

Santal wood... 

Orris root. 

Vetiver. 

Civet . 

Oil of neroli .. 
Oil of santal.. 
Oil of rhodium 


i oz. 
lb. 
lb. 

6 lb. 

lb. 

% oz. 
75 grains. 
75 grains. 
75 grains. 


Heliotrope Sachet Powder. 


Musk. oz. 

Rose leaves. 2 lb. 

Tonka beans. 1 lb. 

Vanilla. ^ lb. 

Orris root. 4 lb. 

Oil of bitter almond. 30 grains. 

Indian Sachet Powder. 

Santal wood.. 3^2 oz. 

Orris root.. 21 oz. 

Cinnamon. 10 ]/?, oz. 

Oil of lavender. 75 grains. 

Cloves. 30 grains. 

Oil of rose.150 grains. 

Lavender Sachet Powder. 

Benzoin. 1 lb. 

Lavender flowers. 4 lb. 

Oil of lavender. . . 1 oz. 

Oil of rose. 75 grains. 


Marshal Sachet Powder. 


Cassia. 

Musk. 

Cloves. 

Rose leaves. 
Santal wood 
Orris root . . 


lb. 

75 grains, 
lb. 
lb. 

1 lb. 

1 lb. 

































PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


211 


Mille Fleurs Sachet Powder. 


Benzoin.... 
Lavender. . . 

Musk. 

Cloves. 

Allspice.... 
Rose leaves. 
Santal wood 
Tonka beans 

Vanilla. 

Orris root . . 

Civet. 

Cinnamon .. , 


i lb. 
i lb. 

30 grains, 
oz. 
2^4 oz. 

I lb. 

4X oz - 

4% OZ. 

. 4^ oz. 

1 lb. 

30 grains. 
Vz oz. 


Muslin Sachet Powder. 


Benzoin. y 2 lb. 

Santal wood. 1 lb. 

Thyme . 1 lb. 

Orris root. 1 lb. 

Vetiver root. 2 lb. 

Oil of geranium. 75 grains. 


Olla Podrida. 

This name is applied in Spain to a dish prepared from 
various remnants of food. The olla podrida of the perfumer 
is made from the remnants of the aromatic vegetable sub¬ 
stances after their extraction with alcohol, petroleum ether, 
etc. Although vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, etc., be repeatedly 
extracted, they still retain their characteristic odor, though 
somewhat fainter, and thus they can be used with advantage 
for sachet powders intended for filling bags, cushions, etc. 
If mixed in corresponding proportions, they can be made use 
of for all the sachets here enumerated. No definite formula 
can be given for a peculiar dry perfume to be called Olla 
podrida; the olfactory organ is the best guide. 




















212 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Patchouly Powder. 


Patchouly herb. 2 lb. 

Oil of patchouly. 30 grains. 

Musk. 15 grains. 


The musk is rubbed up with gradually increased quantities 
of the patchouly herb and with the addition of the oil of 
patchouly; the intimate mixture of the powder saturated with 
musk and oil of patchouly and the rest of the powder is effected 
by prolonged stirring of the two powders in a large vessel. 
The same process is followed with all other dry powders in 
which a small amount of a solid with intense odor or of an 
essential oil is to be mixed with a large quantity of powder. 


Persian Sachet Powder. 


Musk. 

Rose leaves.. . . 

» 

Tonka beans. . . 

Orris root. 

Oil of nutmeg. . 
Oil of clove. . . . 

Oil of rose. 

Oil of cinnamon 


30 grains. 

1 lb. 

3/^ oz. 

2 lb. 

75 grains. 
75 grains. 
150 grains. 
75 grains. 


Portugal Powder. 

Lemon peels. 

Orange peels. 

Orris root. 

Cinnamon. 

Oil of lemon grass. 

Oil of neroli. 

Oil of orange peel. 


1 lb. 

2 lb. 

1 lb. 

oz. 

I 5° grains. 
150 grains. 
2L2 oz. 


Potpourri. 

Many widely differing perfumes are sold in the market 
under this name; a good formula for its preparation is the 
following: 




















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


213 


Lavender. ! lb. 

Cloves. 2% oz. 

Allspice. 2^ oz. 

Rose leaves. 1 lb. 

Reseda. 1^ oz. 

Orris root. y 2 lb. 

Vanilla.150 grains. 

Cinnamon. 1^ oz. 

Sand, or table salt, etc. 1 lb. 


The admixture of fine white sand, table salt, or powdered 
glass or marble, etc., is made merely for the purpose of in¬ 
creasing the weight. 

Rose Sachet Powder, A. 


Geranium herb . 3^4 oz. 

Rose leaves... 2 lb. 

Santal wood. 1 lb. 

Oil of rose. y z oz. 


Rose Sachet Powder, B. 


Rose leaves. 2 lb. 

Santal wood. 1 lb. 

Oil of rose. 1 oz. 


Santal Powder, 

which is simply finely rasped santal wood, is also sometimes 
sold as rose sachet powder when it has received an addition 
of some oil of geranium. 

Violet Sachet Powder. 


Benzoin. ^4 lb. 

Musk. 30 grains. 

Orange flowers. 1^ oz. 

Rose leaves. 1 lb. 

Orris root. 2 lb. 

Oil of bitter almond. 75 grains. 

Oil of lemon grass. 30 grains. 

























214 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

Violet Sachet Powder. 


Orris root, powdered. i lb. 

Musk. 8 grains. 

Vanillin. 30 grains. 

Oil of rose. 25 drops. 

Oil of petit grain.150 grains. 

Cologne water. 3/4 oz. 


Mix intimately in a porcelain mortar. 

Verbena Sachet Powder. 


Lemon peels... 1 lb. 

Caraway. /4 lb. 

Orange peels. 1 lb. 

Oil of bergamot. 1 % oz. 

Oil of lemon... 1^ oz. 

Oil of lemon grass. 75 grains. 

Vetiver Sachet Powder. 

Vetiver root. 2 lb. 

Musk. 15 grains. 

Civet. 20 grains. 


CHAPTER XVIII. 

THE PERFUMES USED FOR FUMIGATION. 

ACCORDING to the use made of them, perfumes for fumi¬ 
gation may be divided into two groups: those which develop 
their fragrance on being burned, and those which do so on 
being merely heated. The former group includes pastils 
and ribbons, the latter fumigating powders and waters. 

Fumigating Pastils. 

French —Pastilles fumigatoires; German —Raucherkerzen. 
Pastils consist in the main of charcoal to which enoueh 

o 

saltpetre is added to make the lighted mass glow continuously 


















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 215 

and leave a pure white ash. To this mass are added various 
aromatic substances which are gradually volatilized by the 
heat and fill the surrounding air with their perfume. It is 
important to observe that only ordinary saltpetre (nitrate of 
potassium) is to be used for this purpose, and not the so-called 
Chili saltpetre (nitrate of sodium) which becomes moist in the 
air. ^For ordinary pastils finely rasped fragrant woods such 
as cedar or santal are frequently employed. During the slow 
combustion, however, the wood gives off products of a pun¬ 
gent or disagreeable odor such as acetic acid and empyreu- 
matic products, which lessen the fragrance. Fine pastils are 
composed of resins and essential oils and are usually formed 
into cones two-fifths to four-fifths of an inch high, by being 
pressed in metal moulds. 

Fumigating pastils are manufactured as follows. Each 
solid ingredient is finely powdered by itself, and the necessary 
quantities are then put into a wide porcelain dish and inti¬ 
mately mixed with a flat spatula. In order to confine the 
dust, the dish is covered with a cloth during this operation. 
The mixture being completed, the essential oils are added, 
together with enough mucilage of acacia to form a plastic 
mass to be kneaded with the pestle, and which after drying will 
have a sufficiently firm consistence. 

Pastilles Orientales. \ 


Charcoal. 1 Y /z lb. 

Saltpetre. 3/4 oz. 

Benzoin .. ^4 lb. 

Powdered amber. 3 >4 oz. 

Tolu balsam. 2^ oz. 


The charcoal for this and all other pastils should be made 
from soft woods (willow, poplar, etc.). The characteristic of 
these pastils is the amber they contain (the offal from manu¬ 
factories is used) and which on ingition gives off a peculiar 







2l6 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


odor much prized in the Orient, rather than in Europe or 
America. 


Pastilles du Serail. 

Charcoal. 

Saltpetre. 

Benzoin. 

Santal wood. 

Opium. 

Tolu balsam. 

This formula is here given as usually quoted. It may be 
stated, however, that the opium may be omitted entirely, as 
it neither contributes to the fragrance, nor produces, by being 
burned in this manner, any of the supposed exhilarating or 
intoxicating effects which it may produce when used in other 
forms or employed in other ways. 

Baguettes Encensoires (Fumigating Pencils). 


Benzoin. 14 oz. 

Charcoal. 1% oz. 

Peru balsam. 1 oz. 

Storax. 2 oz. 

Shellac. 3^ oz. 

Olibanum. 5^4 oz. 

Civet . 75 grains. 

Oil of bergamot. 1 oz. 

Oil of orange peel. 1 oz. 

Oil of santal. 24 oz - 


Melt the benzoin, charcoal, shellac, and olibanum in a 
bright iron pan at the lowest possible heat; take the pan from 
the fire and add the other ingredients, heat being again ap¬ 
plied from time to time to keep the mass in a liquid state. 
The plastic mass is rolled out on a marble slab into rods the 
thickness of a lead pencil. Such a pencil need be but lightly 

passed over a hot surface to volatilize the aromatics it con- 

\ 

tains. 


1 >4 lb. 

3/^ oz. 

>4 lb. 
5/4 oz. 

1 24 oz* 

2^4 OZ. 


















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


217 


Pastilles Odoriferantes. 


Charcoal. 


Saltpetre. 


Benzoin. 


Cloves. 


Tolu balsam. 


Vanilla. 


Vetiver root. 


Cinnamon.. 


Oil of neroli. 


Oil of santal. 



This and the following formula give the finest mixtures 
for pastils. 

Pastilles Enbaumees. 


Charcoal. 2 lb. 

Saltpetre. 2^ oz. 

Benzoic acid, sublimed. 1 lb. 

Musk. 15 grains. 

Civet. 15 grains. 

Oil of lemon grass. 30 grains. 

Oil of lavender. 15 grains. 

Oil of clove. 15 grains. 

Oil of rose. 15 grains. 

Oil of thyme. 30 grains. 

Oil of cinnamon. 30 grains. 


Poudre d’Encens (Incense Powder). 


Benzoin 
Cascarilla... 

Musk. 

Santal wood 
Saltpetre... 
Vetiver root. 
Olibanum.. . 
Cinnamon... 


lb. 

^ lb. 
15 grains. 
1 lb. 

3 X A oz. 

5 y* °z- 

1 lb. 

5 X A oz. 


Dissolve the saltpetre in water, saturate the powders with 
the solution, dry the mass, and again reduce it to powder. 































218 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


This powder, strewn on a warm surface such as the top of a 
stove, takes fire spontaneously and gradually disappears. 

Fumigating Papers and Wicks (Bruges Ribbons). 

French —Papier a fumigations. Ruban de Bruges; German — 
Raucherpapiere. Raucherbander. 

Fumigating papers are strips impregnated with substances 
which become fragrant on being heated; such a strip need 
merely be placed on a stove or held over a flame in order to 
perfume a whole room. Fumigating papers are divided into 
two groups: those meant to be burned, and those meant to 
be used repeatedly. The former, before being treated with 
aromatics, are dipped into saltpetre solution; the latter, in 
order to render them incombustible, are first dipped into a hot 
alum solution so that they are only charred by a strong heat, 
but not entirely consumed. 

A. Inflammable Fumigating Paper. 

Papier Fumigatoire Inflammable. 

The paper is dipped into a solution of 3^ to 5 y 2 ounces 
of saltpetre in water; after drying it is immersed in a strong 
tincture of benzoin or olibanum and again dried. An excel¬ 
lent paper is made according to the following formula: 


Benzoin. 5 y 2 oz. 

Santal wood .. $y oz. 

Olibanum. 3% oz. 

Oil of lemon grass.150 grains. 

Essence of vetiver. iy oz. 

Alcohol. 1 ot. 


For use, the paper is touched with a red-hot substance, not 
a flame. It begins to glow at once without bursting into 
flame, giving off numerous sparks and a pleasant odor. 








PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


219 


B. Non-inflammable Fumigating Paper. 

Papier Fumigatoire Permanent. 

This paper is prepared by dipping it in a hot solution of 
3/4 oz. of alum in one quart of water ; after drying, it is satu¬ 
rated with the following mixture: 


Benzoin. 7 oz. 

Tolu balsam. 7 oz. 

Tincture of tonka. 7 oz. 

Essence of vetiver. 7 oz. 

Alcohol. 20 fl. oz. 


This paper, when heated, diffuses a very pleasant odor and 
can be used repeatedly. It does not burn, and strong heat 
only chars it. Some manufacturers make inferior fumigating 
papers by dipping the alum paper simply in melted benzoin 
or olibanum. 

C. Fumigating Ribbons 

are nothing but fine flat lamp wicks treated first with salt¬ 
petre solution and then with the preceding mixture. The 
wick is rolled up and placed in a vessel provided with a lamp 
burner. It is inserted in the burner like any other wick and 
when lighted burns down to the metal and goes out unless 
screwed up higher. Fumigating vessels provided with these 
wicks are very practical because, if artistic in form, they form 
quite an ornament to the room and can be instantly set in 
operation. A French formula gives the following mixture for 
saturating the wicks: 


Benzoin. 1 lb. 

Musk. Y\ oz. 

Myrrh. 3^2 oz - 

Tolu balsam. 3^ oz. 

Tincture of orris root. 1 pint. 

Oil of rose. 15 grains. 













220 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

I 

Fumigating Waters and Vinegars (Eaux Encensoires, 

Vinaigres Encensoires). 


These fluids are nothing but strong solutions of various 
aromatics in alcohol, a few drops of which suffice, if evapor¬ 
ated on a warm plate, to perfume a large room. The follow¬ 
ing is a good formlua for fumigating water. 


Benzoin. 

Cascarilla. 

Cardamoms.... 

Mace. 

Musk. 

Peru balsam 

Storax. 

Tolu balsam... 

Olibanum. 

Orris root. 

Civet. 

Cinnamon. 

Oil of bergamot 
Oil of lemon... 
Oil of geranium 
Oil of lavender. 
Oil of neroli.. .. 
Alcohol. 


7 oz. 

3/4 oz. 
3/4 oz. 
i 24 oz * 

150 grains. 
1 Y\ oz. 

I24 oz. 

I 24 oz. 
3/4 oz. 
14 oz. 

150 grains. 
7 oz. 



24 OZ. 

24 oz. 


150 grains. 
2 qts. 


Of course, this liquid must be filtered after prolonged 
maceration. By adding to it 1 *4 oz. of glacial acetic acid we 
obtain the so-called fumigating vinegar which is very useful 
for expelling bad odors. 


Fumigating Powders (Poudres Encensoires). 

These powders which need only to be heated in order to 
diffuse one of the most pleasant odors, are easily prepared by 
intimately mixing the ground solids with the oils by means of 
a spatula. We add three renowned formulas for the manu¬ 
facture of such powders. 




















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


221 


A. POUDRE IMPERIALE. 


Benzoin. 

Cascarilla. 

Lavender. 

Rose leaves.... 
Santal wood... . 

Olibanum. 

Orris root. 

Cinnamon. 

Oil of lemon .. 
Oil of clove 
Oil of patchouly 


3% oz. 
i oz. 

I oz. 

134 oz. 
i oz. 
3 % oz. 

3 x A oz - 

\Y\ oz. 

75 grains. 
30 grains. 
15 grains. 


B. POUDRE DE LA REINE. 


Benzoin. 

Cedar wood 

Cinnamon. 

Lavender. 

Rose leaves.... 
Patchouly herb. 
Vetiver root.... 

Civet. 

Oil of bergamot 
Oil of lemon.. . 
Oil of neroli... . 
Oil of clove.... 


7 oz. 

1 lb. 

14 oz. 
10^ oz. 
10^4 oz. 

3Y oz - 
3Y oz - 

150 grains. 
34 oz. 

Y\ oz. 
150 grains. 
150 grains. 


% 


C. POUDRE ROYALE. 


Cinnamon. Yz lb. 

Cloves. Y 2 lb. 

Orris root. 12 Yz oz. 

Storax. 12 Y* oz ' 

Lavender. 1 lb. 

Oil of clove. Y$ ° z - 

Oil of lavender. Y% oz. 

Oil of bergamot. Y& oz. 

Oil of lemon. Y% ° z * 


































222 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 



APPENDIX. 

Some Specialties. 

Besides the preparations enumerated in the preceding 
pages, we find in perfumery some products which are in favor 
on account of their fragrance and are suitable for scenting 
ladies’ writing-desks, sewing-baskets, boxes, and similar ob¬ 
jects. They find their most appropriate use in places where 
an aromatic odor is desired, while there is no room for keep¬ 
ing the substances themselves. These must therefore be put 
into a small compass, and the aromatics chosen should be dis¬ 
tinguished by great intensity and permanence of odor. 

We subjoin a few formulas for the manufacture of such 
specialties, and add the remark that besides the aromatics 
there given other substances may be used in their preparation ; 
but that the presence of benzoin, musk, or civet, even in small 
amount, is always necessary, since these substances, as above 
stated, not only possess an intense and permanent odor, but 
have the valuable property of imparting lasting qualities to 
more volatile odors. 

It is a good plan, too, to keep on hand two kinds of these 
specialties—one containing musk, the other none—for the rea¬ 
son that the musk odor is as disagreeable to some persons as 
it is pleasant to others. 

Spanish Skin (Peau d’Espagne, Spanisch Leder). 

The article sold under this name resembles in some re¬ 
spects sachets or scent bags and is made as follows. 

Take a piece of wash-leather (chamois), trim it to a square 
shape, and leave it for three or four days in the following 
mixture: 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Benzoin.. 

Oil of bergamot.. 

Oil of lemon. 

Oil of lemon grass 
Oil of lavender.. . 
Oil of nutmeg.... 

Oil of clove. 

Oil of neroli. 

Oil of rose. 

Oil of santal. 

Tincture of tonka. 
Oil of cinnamon. . 
Alcohol. 


*4 lb. 

% oz. 

Y\ oz. 

Y oz. 

Y\ OZ. 
150 grains. 
150 grains. 
1 oz. 


Y\ OZ. 
150 grains. 
1 qt. 


At the end of the time named remove the leather from the 
liquid, let it drain, spread it on a glass plate, and when dry 
coat it on the rough side, by means of a brush, with a paste 
prepared in a mortar from the following ingredients: 


Benzoic acid, sublimed.150 grains. 

Musk. 15 grains. 

Civet. 15 grains. 

Gum acacia. 1 oz. 

Glycerin. Y oz. 

Water. 1 Y\ oz. 

I • 


The leather is then folded in the centre, smoothed with a 
paper-knife, put under a weight, and allowed to dry. The 
dried leather forms the so-called perfume skin which retains 
its fine odor for years. Instead of the above alcoholic liquids 
any desired alcoholic perfume may be used ; especially suit¬ 
able are those containing oils of lemon grass, lavender, and 
rose, since they are not very volatile, and when combined with 
musk and civet remain fragrant for a long time. A suffi¬ 
ciently large piece of perfume skin inserted in a desk pad or 
placed among the paper will make the latter very fragrant. 
Spanish skin is chiefly used for this purpose, as well as for 
work, glove, and handkerchief boxes, etc. It is generally in¬ 
closed in a heavy silk cover. 





















224 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


If leather be thought too expensive, four to six layers of 
blotting-paper may be perfumed in the same way and prop¬ 
erly inclosed. Thin layers of cotton wadding between paper 
can also be thus perfumed and used for filling pin-cushions, 
etc. 

Spanish Paste. 


Mix the following substances intimately in a porcelain 
mortar, and add water drop by drop until a doughy mass 
results. 


Ambergris. 

Benzoin. 

Musk. 

Vanilla. 

Orris root. 

Cinnamon. 

Oil of bergamot 

Oil of rose. 

Gum acacia.... 
Glycerin.. 


Y oz. 
iy 2 oz. 

Y oz. 

Y oz. 

H oz - 

Y ° z - 

T x /z oz. 

V\ oz - 

1^2 oz. 
i /4 oz. 


This paste, divided into pieces about the size of a hazel¬ 
nut, is used for filling the so-called cassolettes or scent boxes 
which are carried in the pocket, etc., like smelling bottles. 
Owing to its pasty consistence this preparation can be used 
for perfuming jewelry (small quantities are inserted within the 
diamond settings), fine leather goods, belts, and other articles. 
It is unnecessary to lengthen the list; every practical per¬ 
fumer will know what objects need perfuming. 












PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


225 


CHAPTER XIX. 

HYGIENIC AND COSMETIC PERFUMERY. 

PERFUMERY is not merely called upon to act in an aesthet¬ 
ic direction and gladden the senses; it has another and more 
important aim, that is, to aid in some respects the practice of 
medicine. It is not necessary to point out that in this sense, 
too, it acts in an aesthetic way; for health and beauty are one 
and inseparable. 

The field relegated to perfumery with reference to hygiene 
is extensive, comprising the care of the skin, the hair, and the 
mouth. But we also find in commercial perfumery articles 
which possess no medicinal effect and serve merely for beau¬ 
tifying some parts of the body, for instance, paints and hair 
dyes. As it is not possible to separate perfumes with hygienic 
effects from cosmetics, we shall describe the latter in connec¬ 
tion with the former. 

To repeat, hygienic perfumery has to deal with such sub¬ 
stances as have really a favorable effect on health. No one 
will deny that soap takes the first place among them. Soap 
promotes cleanliness, and cleanliness in itself is essential to 
health. But it would exceed the scope of this work were we 
to treat in detail of the manufacture of soap and its employ¬ 
ment in the toilet; we must confine ourselves to some special¬ 
ties exclusively made by perfumers and into the composition 
of which soap enters. We do so the more readily since per¬ 
fumers are but rarely in a position to make soap, and in most 
cases find it more advantageous to buy the raw material, that 
is, ordinary good soap, from the manufacturer and to per¬ 
fume it. 


15 


226 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

Next to soap in hygienic perfumery stand the so-called 
emulsions and creams (cremes) which are excellent prepara¬ 
tions for the skin and pertain to the domain of the perfumer. 

The human skin consists of three distinct parts: the deep¬ 
est layer, the subcutaneous cellular tissue which gradually 
changes into true skin; the corium or true skin (the thickest 
layer); and the superficial scarf skin or epidermis which is 
very thin and consists largely of dead and dying cells; these 
are continually shed and steadily reproduced from the corium. 

The skin contains various depressions, namely, the sudori¬ 
parous glands which excrete sweat; the sebaceous glands 
which serve the purpose of covering the skin with fat and 
thereby keep it soft, glossy, and supple; and lastly the hair 
follicles which contain the hairs, an appendage to the skin. 

The main object of hygienic perfumery with reference to 
the skin is to keep these glandular organs in health and activ¬ 
ity; it effects this by various remedies which, besides promot¬ 
ing the general health, improve the appearance of the skin. 

As a special group of preparations is intended exclusively 
for the care of the skin, so another class is devoted to the pres¬ 
ervation of the hair, and still another to the care of the 
mouth and its greatest ornament, the teeth. Accordingly the 
preparations belonging under this head will be divided into 
three groups—those for the skin, the hair, and the mouth. 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


227 


CHAPTER XX. 

PREPARATIONS FOR THE CARE OF THE SKIN. 


Glycerin. 

r 

PURE glycerin is a substance that has a powerful beauti¬ 
fying effect on the skin, by rendering it white, supple, soft, 
and glossy; no other remedy will clear a sun-burnt skin in so 
short a time as glycerin. An excellent wash may be made by 
the perfumer by mixing equal parts of thick, colorless gly¬ 
cerin and orange-flower water (or some other aromatic water 
with fine odor), possibly giving it a rose color by the addition 
of a very small amount of fuchsine. Concentrated glycerin 
must not be used as a wash, because it abstracts water from 
the skin and thereby produces a sensation of heat or burning. 

Besides common soap, the so-called emulsions, meals, 
pastes, vegetable milks and creams are the best preparations 
for the care of the skin; in perfumery they are even prefer¬ 
able to soap in some respects because they contain not only 
substances which have a cleansing effect like any soap, scented 
or not, but at the same time render the skin clearer, more 
transparent, and more supple. 


Emulsions. 

Many perfumers make a definite distinction between two 
groups of emulsions which they call respectively “ emulsions ” 
and “true emulsions.” By “emulsions” they mean masses 
which have the property of changing on contact with water 
into a milky fluid or becoming emulsified; the term “true 
emulsions” is applied to such preparations as already contain 


228 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


a sufficient amount of water and therefore have a milky ap¬ 
pearance. Hence the difference between the two prepara¬ 
tions lies in the lesser or greater quantity of water, and is 
so variable that we prefer to describe them under one head. 

The cause of the milky appearance of the emulsions on 
coming in contact with water is that they contain, besides fat, 
substances which possess the property of keeping the fat sus¬ 
pended in form of exceedingly minute droplets which make 
the entire fluid look like milk. As a glance through the mi¬ 
croscope shows, the milk of animals consists of a clear fluid 
in which the divided fat droplets (butter) float; these by their 
refractive power make the milk appear white. 

While soaps always contain a certain quantity of free 
alkali, a substance having active caustic properties, emulsions 
include very little if any alkali, and, since they possess the 
same cleansing power as soap without its disadvantages with 
reference to the skin, their steady use produces a warm youth¬ 
ful complexion, as well as smoothness and delicacy of the skin. 

Glycerin is of special importance in the composition of 
emulsions. Besides the above-mentioned property of this 
substance of keeping the skin soft and supple, it acts as a true 
cosmetic by its solvent power of coloring matters: a skin 
deeply browned by exposure to the sun is most rapidly whit¬ 
ened by the use of glycerin alone. Moreover, glycerin pre¬ 
vents the decomposition of the preparations and keeps them 
unchanged for a long time. This quality has a value which 
should not be underestimated; for all emulsions are very apt 
to decompose and become rancid owing to the finely divided 
fat they contain. Under ordinary conditions, only complete 
protection against light and air can retard rancidity, which is 
accompanied by a disagreeable odor not to be masked by any 
perfume; an addition of glycerin, which we incorporate in 
all emulsions, makes them more permanent owing to the 
antiseptic property of this substance. 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 229 

Recent years, however, have made us acquainted with a 
substance which in very minute quantities—one-half of one per 
cent of the mass to be preserved by it—prevents decomposi¬ 
tion and rancidity of fats. This is salicylic acid, a chemical 
product which, being harmless, tasteless, and odorless, should 
be employed wherever we wish to guard against destructive 
influences exerted by air, fermentation, etc. While formerly 
all emulsions were made only in small amounts, just sufficient 
for several weeks’ use, salicylic acid enables us to manufacture 
larger quantities at once and to keep them without much fear 
of their spoiling. However, even the presence of salicylic 
acid is no guaranty against deterioration, if other precautions 
are neglected. The products should be kept in well-stoppered 
bottles or vessels, in a cool and dark place. All substances 
cannot be preserved by salicylic acid, and there are certain 
ferments or fungi which resist the action of salicylic acid. If 
chloroform is not objectionable in any of these preparations— 
and only so much is necessary as can be held in actual solution 
by the liquid, on an average three drops to the ounce—this 
preservative is preferable to salicylic acid. 

The only fats used in the preparation of emulsions are 
expressed oil of almonds, olive oil, and lard. Almond oil is 
best made by immediate pressure of the bruised fruits, since 
fresh almond meal likewise finds application in perfumery; 
olive oil and lard must be very carefully purified. This is 
done by heating them for one hour with about ten times the 
quantity of water containing soap (one per cent of the quan¬ 
tity of fat to be purified). They are then treated five or six 
times with pure warm water until the latter escapes quite 
neutral. If the water turns red litmus paper blue, it would 
indicate the presence of free alkali (soap); if it turns blue 
litmus paper red, it would prove the presence of free fatty 
acids (rancid fat). Either one of these substances, especially 
the latter, would injure the quality of the product. The fat 


230 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


should be absolutely neutral and have no influence on either 
kind of litmus paper; then its quality may be pronounced 
perfect. 


CHAPTER XXI. 

FORMULAS FOR THE PREPARATION OF EMUL¬ 
SIONS, MEALS, PASTES, VEGETABLE MILK, 

AND COLD-CREAMS. 


A. Emulsions. 

Amandine. 


Almond Cream .—Melt ten pounds of purified lard in an 
enamelled iron pot or a porcelain vessel, and while increasing 
the temperature add little by little five pounds of potash lye 
of 25$ strength, stirring all the time with a broad spatula. 

When fat and lye have become a uniform mass, 2^ to 3^ 

« * 

ounces of alcohol is gradually added, whereby the mixture 
acquires a translucent, crystalline appearance. Before the 
alcohol is added three-fourths to one ounce of oil of bitter 
almond is dissolved in it. The soapy mass thus obtained is 
called “ almond cream ” (creme d’amandes) and may be used 
alone for washing. For making Amandine take of— 


Expressed oil of almonds 

Almond cream. 

Oil of bergamot. 

Oil of bitter almond. 

Oil of lemon. 

Oil of clove. 

Oil of mace. 

Water. 

Sugar. 


10 lb. 

3% .oz. 

1 oz. 

1 Yz oz. - 
150 grains. 
150 grains. 
150 grains. 
1^ oz. 
3 1 /2 oz. 


In the manufacture the following rules should be observed. 
Effect the mixture in a cool room, the cellar in summer, a 
fireless room in winter. Mix the ingredients in a shallow, 












PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 231 

smooth vessel, best a large porcelain dish, using a very broad, 
flat stirrer with several holes. The sugar is first dissolved in 
the water and intimately mixed with the almond cream. The 
essential oils are dissolved in the almond oil contained in a 
vessel provided with a stopcock. The oil is first allowed to 
run into the dish in a moderate stream under continual stir¬ 
ring. The mass soon grows more viscid, and toward the end 
of the operation the flow of oil must be carefully restricted so 
that the quantity admitted can be at once completely mixed 
with the contents of the dish. Well-made amandine must be 
rather consistent and white, and should not be translucent. 
If translucency or an oily appearance is observed during the 
mixture, the flow of oil must be at once checked or enough 
almond cream must be added to restore the white appearance, 
under active stirring. 

As amandine is very liable to decompose, it must be im¬ 
mediately filled into the vessels in which it is to be kept, and 
the latter, closed air-tight, should be preserved in a cool place. 
By adding y A ounce of salicylic acid, amandine may be made 
quite permanent so that it can be kept unchanged even in a 
warm place 

We have described the preparation of amandine at greater 
length because its manufacture requires some technical skill 
and because the preparation of all other cold-creams corre¬ 
sponds in general with that of amandine. 


Glycerin Emulsions. A. Glycerin Cream. 


Glycerin... 
Almond oil. 
Rose water 
Spermaceti. 

Wax. 

Oil of rose. 


y 2 ib. 

14 oz. 

I 2 x /z OZ. 


3 A OZ. 
480 grains. 
60 grains. 


Melt the wax and spermaceti by gentle heat, then add the 
almond oil, next the glycerin mixed with the rose water, and 








232 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


lastly the oil of rose which may also be replaced by some 
other fragrant oil or mixture. If the preparation is to be 
used in summer, it is advisable to increase the wax by one- 
half, thus giving the mass greater consistence. 

B. Glycerin Jelly. 

Glycerin. 2 lb. 

Almond oil. 6 lb. 

Soap. 15 oz. 

Oil of orange peel.150 grains. 

Oil of thyme. oz - 

Mix the soap with the glycerin, gradually add the oil (as 
for amandine), and finally the aromatics. 

Jasmine Emulsion. 

Huile antique de jasmin. 2 lb. 

Almond cream. 5^4 oz. 

Expressed oil of almond. 4 lb. 

Water. 5J4 oz. 

Sugar. 2^ oz. 

Mix in the same order as given under Amandine. 

* 

Tuberose Emulsion. 

Huile antique des tuberoses. 1^ to 2 lb. 

Almond cream. 5 oz. 

Expressed oil of almond. 4 lb. 

Water. 5 oz. 

Sugar. 2^ oz. 

Violet Emulsion. 

Huile antique des violettes.2 to 3 lb. 

Almond cream. 5 y 2 oz. 

Expressed oil of almond. 4 lb. 

Water. 5 *4 oz. 

Sugar. 2^ oz. 

In place of the huiles antiques named (i.e., fine oils satu¬ 
rated with the odors of the corresponding flowers) any other 























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


huile antique may be used and the cream then called by the 
name of the flower whose odor it possesses. Such creams 
with genuine huiles antiques are among the finest prepara¬ 
tions known in perfumery and of course are high-priced, ow¬ 
ing to the cost of the huiles antiques. 


Olivine. 

Gum acacia. 

Yolk of egg. 

Olive oil. 

Soap. 

Water. 

Sugar. 

Oil of bergamot. 

Oil of lemon. 

Oil of clove. 

Oil of orange peel. 

Oil of thyme. 

Oil of cinnamon. 


lb. 

io yolks. 
4 lb. 

7 oz. 

8 oz. 

5 % oz - 

2 OZ. 

2 OZ. 

I OZ. 

yi oz. 
75 grains. 
75 grains. 


The gum, sugar, water, and yolk of eggs are first intimately 
mixed and gradually added to the olive oil containing the 
essential oils. 


B. Meals and Pastes. 

The so-called meals (farines) and pastes (pates) really con¬ 
sist of the flour of fatty vegetable substances which possess the 
property of forming an emulsion with water and are fre¬ 
quently used in washes. As they are free from alkali, they 
are the most delicate preparations of the kind and are espe¬ 
cially suitable for washing the face or sensitive hands. 

Simple Almond Paste (Pate d’Amandes Simple). 


Bitter almonds. 6 lb. 

Alcohol. 2 qts. 

Rose water. 4 qts. 

Oil of bergamot. oz. 

Oil of lemon. 3^ oz. 



















234 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

Put the bitter almonds in a sieve, clip them for a few sec¬ 
onds in boiling water, when they can be easily deprived of 
their brown skin; carefully bruise them in a mortar, and place 
them in a glazed pot set in another kept full with boiling 
water; pour over them two quarts of the rosewater heated 
to near the boiling-point. Keep up the heat under continual 
stirring until the almond meal and rose water form a uniform 
mass free from granules; in other words, until the meal is 
changed into paste. The pot is now allowed to cool some¬ 
what, when the rest of the rose water and the oils dissolved 
in alcohol are added. Almond paste should have a uniform, 
butter-like consistence if the first part of the operation has 
been carefully performed. 

% 

Almond and Honey Paste (Pate d’Amandes au Miel). 


Bitter almonds. 2 lb. 

Yolk of egg. 30 yolks. 

Honey. 4 lb. 

Expressed oil of almond. 4 lb. 

Oil of bergamot. 1 oz. 

Oil of lemon. oz. 

Oil of clove. 3^ oz. 


Decorticate and bruise the bitter almonds and add them 
with the essential oils to the mixed yolks, honey, and almond 
oil. 

Almond Meal (Farine d’Amandes). 


Almond meal. 4 lb. 

Orris root, powdered. 5 ^ oz. 

Oil of lemon. 1 oz. 

Oil of bitter almond.150 grains. 

Oil of lemon grass. 75 grains. 


Almond meal here means the bran left after expressing 
the oil from sweet almonds. First mix the powdered orris 
root intimately with the essential oils and triturate the mass 














PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


235 


with the almond bran. Other essential oils may also be 
used for perfuming the mass. 

Pistachio Meal (Farine de Pistaches). 


Pistachio nuts. 4 lb. 

Orris root, powdered. 4 lb. 

Oil of lemon. 1^' oz. 

Oil of neroli.. .150 grains. 

Oil of orange peel. 1 oz. 


The pistachio nuts are blanched in the same manner as 
almonds (see under Simple Almond Paste), and then reduced 
to a meal. 


C. Vegetable Milk. 

The several varieties of vegetable milk are merely emul¬ 
sions containing sufficient water to give them a milky appear¬ 
ance. They are used as such for washes and are in great 
favor. Owing to the larger amount of water they contain, 
they are more liable to decompose than the preparations de¬ 
scribed above, since the fats present in them easily become 
rancid on account of their fine division in the milk. 

In order to render these preparations more stable, they 
receive an addition of about five to ten per cent of their 
weight of pure glycerin which enhances their cosmetic effect. 
The addition of about one-half of one per cent of salicylic 
acid is likewise to be recommended, as it makes them more 
stable. 

In the following pages we shall describe only the most im¬ 
portant of these preparations usually made by the perfumer. 
In this connection we may state that by slightly modifying 
the substances used to perfume them, new varieties of vege¬ 
table milk can be easily prepared. 

Every vegetable milk consists in the main of a base of 
soap, wax, and spermaceti, and an aromatic water which gives 







236 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

the name to the preparation. This composition is intended 
to keep suspended the fatty vegetable substances (almond or 
pistachio meal, etc.), thus producing a milky appearance. 

Vegetable milks are made as follows. 

Melt the soap with the wax and spermaceti at a gentle 
heat. Prepare a milk from the vegetable substance and the 
aromatic water ( e.g ., unexpressed almonds and rose water) by 
careful trituration, strain it through fine silk gauze into the 
vessel containing the melted mixture of soap, wax, and sper¬ 
maceti, stir thoroughly, let it cool, and add the alcohol hold¬ 
ing in solution the essential oils, the glycerin (and the salicylic 
acid), under continual stirring. The alcohol must be added 
in a very thin stream, otherwise a portion of the mass will 
curdle. The coarser particles contained in the milk must be 
allowed to settle by leaving the preparation at rest for twenty- 
four hours, when the milk can be carefully decanted from the 
sediment and filled into bottles for sale. 

Lilac Milk (Lait de Lilas). 


Soap. 2% oz. 

Wax. 2 % oz. 

Spermaceti. 2^ oz. 

Sweet almonds. 1 lb. 

Lilac-flower water. 4^4 pints. 

Huile antique de lilas. 2^ oz. 

Alcohol (80-85$ Tralles). 2 lb. 


In place of lilac-flower water and huile antique de lilas, 
lilacin (terpineol) may be used, a sufficient quantity (about 1 
oz.) being dissolved in the alcohol. But the lilacin must be 
pure and of clean odor. 

Virginal Milk (Lait Virginal). 

This preparation differs from all other milks sold in per¬ 
fumery in that it consists of some aromatic water with tine- 









PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


237 


ture of benzoin and tolu. In making it, pour the aromatic 
water in a very thin stream into the tincture under vigorous 
stirring. If the water flows in too rapidly, the resins present 
in the tincture separate in lumps; but if slowly poured in, the 
resins form minute spheres which remain suspended. The 
preparation is named after the aromatic water it contains : 
Lait virginal de la rose, a fleurs d’oranges, etc. Its formula is: 


Tincture of benzoin 
Tincture of tolu 
Aromatic water 


2 oz. 
2^ oz. 
4 qts. 


Cucumber Milk (Lait de Concombres). 


Soap. x oz. 

Olive oil. 1 oz. 

Wax. 1 oz. 

Spermaceti. 1 oz. 

Sweet almonds. 1 lb. 

Cucumber juice (freshly expressed). 4^ pints. 

Extract of cucumber. 1 pint. 

Alcohol. 2 lb. 


Dandelion Milk. 


Soap . 

Olive oil. 

Wax . 

Sweet almonds. . . . 
Extract of tuberose 

Rose water. 

Dandelion juice. . . 


2oz.. 
2]/^ oz. 
2 % OZ. 

i lb. 

1 lb. 

5 pints. 
5 oz. 


Dandelion juice is the bitter milk sap of the root of the 
common dandelion (Leontodon taraxacum); it should be ex¬ 
pressed immediately before use. The rose water may be 
replaced by some other aromatic water or even ordinary 
water; but the latter should be distilled, otherwise the lime 
it contains would form an insoluble combination with the soap. 




















233 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Bitter-Almond Milk (Lait d’Amandes Ameres). 


Bitter almonds. 2]^ oz. 

Soap. 2% oz. 

Expressed oil of almond. 2% oz. 

Wax .:. 2^ oz. 

• Spermaceti. 2^ oz. 

Rose water. 4 qts. 

Alcohol. 3 pints. 

Oil of bitter almond. ]A oz. 

Oil of bergamot. 1 oz. 

Oil of lemon. X A oz. 


Rose Milk (Lait de Roses). 


Olive oil. 

Soap. 

Wax. 

Spermaceti . . . 
Sweet almonds 
Oil of rose . . . 
Rose water. . . 
Alcohol. 


2^ oz. 

2 % oz. 
2^ oz. 

2 % oz. 

4 lb. 

150 grains. 
4 qts. 

1 pint. 


Pistachio Milk (Lait de Pistaciies). 


Soap. 2% oz. 

Olive oil. 2% oz. 

Wax . 2 oz. 

Spermaceti. 2% oz. 

Pistachio nuts. 14 oz. 

Oil of neroli. ^ oz. 

Orange-flower water. 6 qts. 

Alcohol . 1 qt. 


D. Cold-Creams and Lip Salves. 

In the main they resemble in their composition the emul¬ 
sions and vegetable milks, but differ by their thick consistence 
which renders them suitable for being rubbed into the skin. 




























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


239 


Cold-creams are really salves perfumed with one of the well- 
known odors which give them their names. Fat forms the 
basis of these mixtures and gives them their hygienic effect, 
as it imparts fulness and softness to the skin. Every well- 
made cold-cream should have the consistence of recently con¬ 
gealed wax and should yield to the pressure of the finger like 
pomatum. It should be noted that the addition of very thick 
glycerin will increase the effect of the cold-cream and im¬ 
prove its fine transparent appearance; but this substance 
must be added with great care, otherwise the mass will not 
possess the required firmness. 

In making cold-cream, a mixture of wax, spermaceti, and 
expressed almond oil must be combined with an aromatic 
water and an essential oil. The first part of the operation is 
easy; the wax and spermaceti are melted at the lowest possible 
temperature, and the almond oil is added under continual 
stirring. It is more difficult to unite the other substances 
with this base; the aromatic water is admitted in a thin stream 
under vigorous stirring (or whipping, or churning), and when 
it forms a uniform mass with the contents of the mortar the 
remaining substances are stirred in and the still fluid mass is 
poured into the vessels intended for it, and allowed to con- 
geal. 

Cold-creams are usually sold in tasteful porcelain jars 
or vases. To guard against rancidity of the mass, the vessels 
are closed either with ground stoppers or with corks covered 
with tin foil. The essential oils should be added last, when 
the mass has cooled to the congealing-point; if added before, 
too much of them is lost by evaporation. 

We give below several approved formulas for the prepara¬ 
tion of some favorite cold-creams, and repeat that new varie¬ 
ties can be produced by introducing any desired odor into the 
composition. 


240 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Glycerin Cold-Cream A. 


Expressed oil of almond. 2 lb. 

Wax. 2^4 oz. 

Spermaceti. 2^ oz. 

Glycerin. 7 oz - 

Oil of bergamot. Y\ oz. 

Oil of lemon. ^ oz. 

Oil of geranium. Y\ oz. 

Oil of neroli.150 grains. 

Oil of cinnamon.150 grains. 

Rose water. 1 lb. 


Glycerin Cold-Cream B. 


Expressed oil of almond... 2 lb. 

Wax . 4^2 oz. 

Spermaceti. 4^4 oz. 

Glycerin. Yz lb. 

Oil of rose.150 grains. 

Civet. 30 grains. 

Camphor Ice (Camphor Cold-Cream). 

Wax . 2 l Y oz. 

Spermaceti. 2 Y oz. 

Expressed oil of almond. 2 lb. 

Camphor. 4 Y oz. 

Oil of rosemary. 90 grains. 

Oil of peppermint. 45 grains. 

Rose water. 2 lb. 


Camphor Ice (Pate Camphorique). 


Lard. 

Wax. 

Camphor. 

Oil of lavender, 
Oil of rosemary 


2 lb. 



lb. 

lb. 


Y ° z - 

Vz OZ. 


This mixture, which is rather firm, is frequently poured 
into shallow porcelain boxes; sometimes it is colored red with 
alkanet root. 






























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


24I 


Camphor Balls (Savonettes Camphoriques). 

Expressed oil of almond. y 0 z. 


Purified tallow. 2 lb. 

Wax. 7 oz . 

Spermaceti. 7 oz. 

Camphor. 7 oz. 

Oil of lavender. y oz. 

Oil of rosemary. y oz. 

Oil of cinnamon. 75 grains. 


Savonette is generally understood to mean a soap cast in 
spherical moulds; this preparation is, as a rule, likewise sold 
in this form. 


Divine Pomade A. 


Expressed oil of almond. 3 lb. 

Spermaceti. 1 lb. 

Lard. 2 lb. 

Benzoin. 1 lb. 

Vanilla. 7 oz. 

Civet. y oz. 


The aromatic substances, having been comminuted, are 
thoroughly triturated with the other ingredients, and the mass 
is kept for twenty-four hours at a temperature of 50 to 6o° C. 
(112-140° F.), when it is carefully decanted from the sedi¬ 
ment, which is treated again with another mass of the same 
substances for thirty-six to forty-eight hours. 

Divine Pomade B. 

Beef marrow. 

Benzoin. 

Nutmegs... 

Cloves.. 

Storax. 

Orris root.'. 

Civet. 

Cinnamon. 

Orange-flower water. 

16 


2 lb. 

1 ^ oz. 

I oz. 

I oz. 

I X /2 oz. 
iy oz. 
75 grains. 

1 oz. 

2 lb. 

























242 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

The solid substances are macerated for forty-eight hours 
with the warm marrow, the liquid perfumed marrow is then 
strained off and mixed with the orange-flower water. 


Cologne Cold-Cream (Cr£me de Cologne). 


Expressed oil of almond. 2 lb. 

Wax . 2^/2 oz. 

Spermaceti. 2^ oz. 

Mecca balsam. 7 oz. 

Tolu balsam. 3^ oz. 

Rose water. 14 oz. 


Mecca balsam has been a rare article in commerce for 
many years. That which is usually sold as such is more or less 
adulterated or an imitation. The genuine was derived from 
Balsamodendron Opobalsamum Kunth. 

Cucumber Cold-Cream A. 


Expressed oil of almond. 2 lb. 

Wax . 2^ oz. 

Spermaceti. 2% oz. 

Extract of cucumber. 5*4 oz. 

Cucumber juice, fresh. 2 lb. 


The cucumber juice is carefully heated to 60 or 65° C. (140- 
I49°F.), rapidly filtered from the curds, and at once added to 
the rest of the mass. 

Cucumber Cold-Cream B. 


Lard. 6 lb. 

Spermaceti. 2 lb. 

Benzoin. 7 oz. 

Extract of cucumber. 2 lb. 


The benzoin is first macerated with the warmed fat for 
twenty-four hours, and this aromatic fat is treated in the usual 


manner. 

















i 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


243 


Lip Salve A (Pomade Blanche pour les Levres). 


Expressed oil of almond. 2 lb. 

Wax . A y 2 oz. 

Spermaceti. 4^ oz. 

Oil of bitter almond. y 2 oz. 

Oil of lemon grass. 75 grains. 

Oil of rose. 75 grains. 


Red Lip Salve B (Pomade a la Rose Pour les Levres). 


Expressed oil of almond. 2 lb. 

Wax. 4 y* oz. 

Spermaceti. 4 y 2 oz. 

Oil of geranuim.150 grains. 

Oil of santal. 90 grains. 

Alkanet root. 4^ oz. 


The beautiful red color which distinguishes this prepara¬ 
tion is produced with alkanet root; the mass, before the essen¬ 
tial oils are added, being macerated for from six to eight 
hours, under frequent stirring, with the comminuted root, and 
then decanted from the sediment. 


Cherry Salve C (Pomade Cerise). 


Expressed oil of almond. 2 lb. 

Wax . 4 Yz oz. 

Spermaceti. 4^4 oz - 

Oil of bitter almond .. /4 oz. 

Oil of sweet bay.150 grains. 

Alkanet root. 4/4 oz - 


The procedure is the same as for pomade k la rose. 

Almond Cold-Cream. 

Expressed oil of almond 

Wax . 

Spermaceti. 

Rose water. 

Oil of bitter almond . . . 

Civet. 


2 lb. 

4)4 oz. 
4/4 oz. 

2 lb. 

oz - 

30 grains, 


























244 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Almond Balls (Savonettes d’Amandes). 


Tallow . 2 lb. 

Wax .'.. io >4 oz. 

Spermaceti. 7 oz. 

Oil of bitter almond.150 grains. 

Oil of clove. 75 grains. 

Oil of cinnamon. 75 grains. 


This is usually formed into balls. 

Rosebud Cold-Cream. 


Almond oil... . 

Wax . 

Spermaceti. 

Rose water. . .. 

Oil of rose. 

Oil of geranium 


2 lb. 

2^/2 oz. 
2^ oz. 

2 lb. 

75 grains. 
75 grains. 


Violet Cold-Cream (Creme de Violettes). 


Huile antique de violettes. 2 lb. 

Wax . 2 x /i oz. 

Spermaceti. 2^4 oz. 

Violet water. 2 lb. 

Oil of bitter almond.150 grains. 

Oil of neroli. 75 grains. 


APPENDIX. 

Nail Powder (Poudre pour les Ongles ; Fingernagel- 

Pulver). 

The finger nails, being an appendage to the skin, belong 
under the head of the Care of the Skin; we therefore give a 
formula for preparing the powder used for imparting smooth¬ 
ness and gloss to the nails. For use, some of the powder 
is poured on a piece of soft glove leather and the nails are 
rubbed until they shine. 




















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


245 


Oxide of tin. ^ 1^ 

Carmine. oz . 

Oil of bergamot.150 grains. 

Oil of lavender.150 grains. 


The oxide of tin must be an impalpable powder and is 
mixed with the other substances in a mortar. 


CHAPTER XXII. 

THE PREPARATIONS USED FOR THE CARE OF 
THE HAIR (POMADES AND HAIR OILS). 

The hair, the beautiful ornament of the human body, re¬ 
quires fat for its care and preservation, for there are but few 
persons whose scalp is so vigorous that the hair can derive 
sufficient nourishment from it to maintain its gloss and smooth¬ 
ness. 

Among the ancient Greeks, Romans, and Germans various 
ointments were in use for the care of the hair. In Rome 
there was even, as we have stated in an earlier part of the 
book, a special guild of ointment-makers or unguentarii. 
They employed a process for making their ointments fragrant 
which resembles that of maceration in present use. 

The so-called pomades (from pomum, apple) were prepared 
by sticking a fine apple full of spices and placing it for a long 
time in liquid fat which absorbed the odor of the spices. 

In the present state of chemical science, the basis of every 
pomade or hair oil is formed by some fat perfumed with aro¬ 
matic substances and at times colored. The fats generally 
used are lard, beef marrow, tallow, bears’ grease, olive or al¬ 
mond oil; some of the firmer fats receive an addition of a cer¬ 
tain amount of paraffin, spermaceti, or wax, in order to give 
the pomade greater consistence. As in the manufacture of 







246 PERFUMES AND "THEIR PREPARATION. 

all the finer articles, it is essential that whatever fat is em¬ 
ployed should be perfectly pure; only fat which is absolutely 
neutral, i.e., free from acid, can be used, and any sample with 
but a trace of rancidity (containing free fatty acids) should 
be rejected on account of the penetrating odor peculiar to 
several of these acids. 

Manufacturers who aim at the production of fine goods 
spare neither trouble nor expense in order to obtain perfectly 
pure fats. 

Fats are purified for the purposes of the perfumer in the 
following manner: 

The fat is melted in a bright iron pot or enamelled vessel 
with three times the quantity of water containing in solution 
about one per cent (of the weight of the fat) of alum and one 
per cent of table salt. Fat and water are well stirred with a 
broad flat ladle or some mechanical arrangement within the 
boiler. After the mass has remained at rest for some time, 
the curdled solid matters are skimmed from the surface. The 
time required for this operation can be much shortened by 
the use of a pump which raises the fat and water from the 
boiler and returns them in a fine spray. 

When fats with some degree of rancidity are to be made 
suitable for the purposes of the perfumer, 0.5$ of caustic soda 
lye is added to the water instead of the alum. 

After this treatment is completed, the fat must be washed 
in order to free it from the substances with which it was puri¬ 
fied. Formerly this washing was done in a manner resem¬ 
bling the grinding of oil colors. The fat was placed on a level 
stone plate and kneaded with a muller with flat base under a 
continual stream of water flowing from above, until the fat 
was clean. This expensive hand labor is now performed by 
machines, the fat being treated with water in vertical mills. 

No matter how carefully a fat was purified, it may happen 
that the pomades made from it, if kept long in stock, may sub- 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 247 

sequently become rancid—a circumstance which may destroy 
the reputation of a factory. Fortunately we know two sub¬ 
stances which materially counteract the tendency of fats to 
become rancid: salicylic acid and benzoin. Either of these 
substances is added to many perfumery articles, especially 
pomades, in order to prevent rancidity; an admixture of from 
one-one-thousandth to five-one-thousandths parts of solid 
salicylic acid suffices, according to our experiments, for the 
purpose; of benzoin we need about three-fourths of an ounce 
for every quart of fat; the resin is only partly soluble in fat, 
but imparts to it its vanilla-like odor. For the finest pomades 
sublimed benzoic acid is used, in the proportion of about 150 
to 240 grains to the quart of fat. 


CHAPTER XXIII. 

FORMULAS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF 
POMADES AND HAIR OILS. 

A. Pomades. 

In manufacturing perfumery two groups of pomades are 
distinguished—those with a hard base, and those with a soft 
base. By base is meant the fat which is the vehicle of the 
odor in every pomade. The consistence of the substance de¬ 
pends upon its melting-point; lard and beef marrow, having a 
low melting-point, furnish soft pomades; while beef and mut¬ 
ton tallow, which often receive an addition of paraffin, wax, 
or spermaceti in order to make them firmer, have a higher 
melting-point and serve for hard pomades. 

French perfumers put on the market some very fine po¬ 
mades consisting of the fat which has served for the absorption 
of odors by maceration, enfleurage, etc., and which has been 
treated with alcohol for the extraction of the odors (so-called 



248 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


washed pomades). No matter how long such a fat is treated 
with alcohol, it tenaciously retains a portion of the odor to 
which the great fragrance of these pomades is due and which 
has given them their reputation. 

If the pomades resulting from the following formulas 
should turn out too soft—a fact depending on the climate of 
the place of manufacture—they may receive an addition of a 
mixture of equal parts of paraffin, wax, and spermaceti, in 
portions of respectively five per cent at each addition, until 
the desired ointment-like consistence is attained. 

Cantharidal Pomade. 


Beef marrow. 4 lb. 

Wax. 7 oz. 

Oil of mace.150 grains. 

Oil of clove.150 grains. 

Oil of rose.150 grains. 

Tincture of cantharides. y oz. 


Tincture of cantharides is prepared by prolonged macera¬ 
tion of y ounce of powdered cantharides in one quart of 
alcohol. 


Circassian Pomade. 


Benzoin pomade (see below). 2 lb. 

Rose pomade. 1 lb. 

Lard. 2 lb. 

Expressed oil of almond. .. 4 lb. 

Alkanet root. 3 y 2 oz. 

Oil of rose. Vo oz. 


The almond oil alone is first macerated with the alkanet 
root until, when added to the other ingredients, it imparts a 
beautiful red color to the pomade. 

Benzoin Pomade A. 


Benzoic acid, sublimed. 4% oz. 

Purified fat. 4 lb # 
















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


249 


Benzoin Pomade B. 

Benzoin. 12^ oz. 

Fat.. 4 lb. 

Macerate the benzoin or benzoic acid in the fat at the tem¬ 
perature of boiling water for several hours, and strain the 
pomade through a cloth. 

Double Pomades. 

These pomades are put on the market in excellent quality 
especially by French manufacturers. They consist of a mix¬ 
ture of washed pomades and huiles antiques. The respective 
quantities must be chosen according to the climate of the 
country for which the articles are intended. Colder countries 
require equal parts by weight of pomades and oils; warmer 
climates, two parts of fat to one of oil. 

Crystallized Oil (Huile Crystallisee). 


Huile antique of orange flowers. 1 lb. 

Huile antique of roses. 2 lb. 

Huile antique of tuberoses. 2 lb. 

Huile antique of violets. 2 lb. 

Spermaceti. 1 lb. 

Paraffin. 7 oz - 


The addition of spermaceti and paraffin causes the mix¬ 
ture to assume a crystalline form on cooling, the appearance 
improving in proportion as the cooling is slow and gradual. 
First melt the paraffin and spermaceti on a water bath, add 
the huiles antiques, mix thoroughly by prolonged stirring, and 
pour the finished product into the vessels in which it is to 
be sold. These vessels are previously warmed to 60 or yo° C. 
(140-158° ) F., and very slowly after filling, so as to secure a 
beautiful crystalline mass. A second quality of crystalline 
hair oil is made according to the following formula: 










250 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Expressed oil of almond. io lb. 

Spermaceti. 21 oz. 

Paraffin. 14 oz. 

Oil of bergamot. v . 2 oz. 

Oil of lemon. 4% oz. 

Oil of bitter almond. -.150 grains. 

Blossom Pomade (Pomade a Fleurs). 

Expressed oil of almond. 4 lb. 

Jasmine pomade. 28 oz. 

Rose pomade. 28 oz. 

Violet pomade. 28 oz. 

Oil of bergamot. ^ oz. 

Oil of lemon.150 grains. 


Bear’s Grease Pomade (Pomade a Graisse d’Ours). 


Expressed oil of almond. 20 lb. 

Lard. 24 lb. 

Cassie pomade. 4 lb. 

Jasmine pomade. 4 lb. 

Huile antique of cassie. 1 lb. 

Huile antique of jasmine. 1 lb. 

Huile antique of orange flowers. 1 lb. 

Huile antique of roses. 1 lb. 

Huile antique of tuberoses. 1 lb. 

Oil of bergamot. *4 lb. 

Oil of lemon. 3 *4 oz. 

Oil of nutmeg. ij 4 oz. 

Oil of clove. 4% oz. 


This pomade is rather consistent; if it is to be made still 

firmer for summer use or warm climates, the almond oil should 

• 

be diminished and the lard increased in proportion, or some 
tallow and wax added. The pomade is made by mixing the 
oil and lard, adding next the pomades and huiles antiques, 
and finally the essential oils. The temperature should not be 
higher than suffices to keep the mass liquid; the mixture is 
effected by vigorous stirring, and is then at once, though 
gradually, cooled. 



























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


251 


Beef-Marrow Pomade (Pomade a Moelle de Bceuf). 


Lard . 8 lb. 

Beef marrow. 4 lb 

Oil of bergamot. x oz 

Oil of lemon. 2 oz 

Oil of mace. 150 grains. 

Oil of clove.150 grains. 

Marrow Cream (Cr^me de Moelle). 

Expressed oil of almond. 4 lb. 

Lard. 4 lb. 

Palm oil. 3)4 oz. 

Oil of bergamot. 2 oz. 

Oil of lemon. 7 oz. 

Oil of nutmeg.150 grains. 

Oil of clove.150 grains. 

Oil of cinnamon.150 grains. 


The public is accustomed to receive the last two pomades 
in the form of froth. This can be easily effected by whipping 
the pomade during cooling with an egg-beater until it is solidi¬ 
fied. 


Cinchona Pomade (Pomade a Quinquine). 


Lard. 4 lb. 

Expressed oil of almond. 1 lb. 

Beef marrow. 6 lb. 

Peru balsam. 1 oz. 

Cinchona bark.. ^ oz. 

Oil of clove. 1 oz. 

Oil of rose .150 grains. 


Macerate the finely powdered bark in the fat for some 
hours, add the Peru balsam, strain through a cloth, and incor¬ 
porate the essential oils. The pomade is vaunted as a hair 
tonic, as well as 























252 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

Tanno-Quinine Pomade, 

which is prepared in the same way; the only difference being 
the addition of 150 grains of tannin. 

Castor-Oil Cream (Creme de Ricine). 

Expressed oil of almond. 3 lb. 

Castor oil. 3 lb. 

Rose pomade.. 2 lb. 

Orange-flower pomade. 2 lb. 

Tuberose pomade.,. 2 lb. 

Oil of bergamot. 7 oz. 

Oil of lemon. 3*4 oz. 

Orange-flower Pomade (Pomade a Fleurs d’Oranges). 

Expressed oil of almond. 38J4 oz. 

Cassie pomade. $ 8}4 oz. 

Rose pomade. 35 oz. 

Jasmine pomade. 35 oz. 

Oil of bitter almond.150 grains. 

Oil of neroli.. J 4 oz. 

Heliotrope Pomade (Pomade de Heliotrope). 

Rose pomade. 4 lb. 

Orange-flower pomade . 1 lb. 

Huile antique of jasmine. 2 lb. 

Huile antique of orange flower... 1 lb. 

Huile antique of tuberose. 1 lb. 

Vanilla pomade. 2 lb. 

Oil of bitter almond.150 grains. 

Oil of clove. 75 grains. 

Transparent Pomade. 

Expressed oil of almond. 6 lb. 

Wax. 5/4 oz. . 

Spermaceti. 1 lb. 

Oil of bitter almond. 75 grains. 

Oil of rose.150 grains. 

Tincture of musk. 1oz. 





























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


253 


The pomade is completely liquefied after being mixed and 
allowed to congeal in the vessels in which it is marketed. If 
successful, the product must be quite transparent or at least 
decidedly translucent. 

Tonka Cream. 


Tonka beans. 1 lb. 

Lard.. 8 lb. 


The powdered beans are stirred into the melted fat, in 
which they remain for several days, the fat being agitated 
from time to time ; when it smells strong enough, it is strained 
through fine linen, and the tonka beans are treated with an¬ 
other quantity of fat. 


Violet Pomade (Pomade des Violettes). 


Lard. 4 lb. 

Cassie pomade. 3 lb. 

Rose pomade. 2 lb. 

Violet pomade. 2 lb. 


Vanilla Cream (Creme de Vanille). 

Vanilla. 7 oz * 

Lard. 6 lb. 

In making this pomade the material is treated the same as 

in preparing tonka pomade. Ordinary vanilla pomade is 

made by triturating: 


Peru balsam. 7 oz - 

Lard. 2 


Expressed oil of almond. 2 lb. 

First triturate the balsam with the almond oil and gradu¬ 
ally add the lard. Another, much better process is the fol¬ 
lowing : 

Vanilla Pomade. 

Vanillin. 80 grains. 

Peru balsam. A oz - 

Lard. 6 
















254 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

Dissolve the vanillin and balsam of Peru in about 4 oz. of 
alcohol. Melt the lard at as low a temperature as possible, 
then add the solution, stir until it is well incorporated, and 
afterward repeatedly until the mass is cold. 

Pomade Philocome. 


Huile antique of cassie. 1 lb. 

Huile antique of jasmine. 1 lb. 

Huile antique of orange flower. 3^ oz. 

Huile antique of rose. 3^2 oz. 

Huile antique of tuberose. 3^ oz. 

Huile antique of violet. 1 lb. 

Paraffin. 10 *4 oz. 

Wax. 14 oz. 


This pomade has a delightful odor but is expensive; an 
inferior and much cheaper philocome is made as follows: 


Expressed oil of almond. 8 lb. 

Paraffin. lb. 

Wax. 14 oz. 

Oil of bergamot. 4^ oz. 

Oil of lemon. 1^ oz. 

Oil of lavender. % oz. 

Nutmeg. 75 grains. 

Cloves. 75 grains. 

Cinnamon. 75 grains. 


Pomades are usually colored—rose pomade, red; reseda 
pomade, green; violet pomade, violet, etc. For this pur¬ 
pose aniline colors are frequently used; they must be dis¬ 
solved in glycerin and added to the fat, as they are insoluble 
in the latter. The coloring matter is added when the po¬ 
mades are finished, before they are allowed to congeal. 

B. Hair Oils. 

These differ from pomades mainly by containing huiles 
antiques instead of washed pomades; they are therefore 
more or less liquid and are used for the hair as much as po¬ 
mades. 



















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


255 


Benzoated Oil (Huile a Benjamin). 

Sublimed benzoic acid. 5 oz. 

Expressed oil of almond. 4 lb. 

The acid must be dissolved in the hot oil. 

Huile a l’Ess-Bouquet. 

Oil of rose.150 grains. 

Oil of reseda. 3*4 oz. 

Oil of violet. 150 grains. 

Tincture of musk.... . 75 grains. 

Almond oil. 6 lb. 

The essential oils are mixed, and the almond oil is added 
small portions under continual stirring. 

Heliotrope Hair Oil (Huile Heliotrope). 

Huile antique of jasmine. io )4 oz. 

Huile antique of rose. 2 lb. 

Huile antique of orange flower. 5J2 oz. 

Huile antique of tuberose. 5oz. 

Huile antique of vanilla. 1 lb. 

Oil of bitter almond.150 grains. 

Oil of clove.. 75 grains. 

Jasmine Hair Oil (Huile de Jasmin). 

Expressed oil of almond. 4 lb. 

Huile antique of jasmine. 7 oz - 

Oil of bergamot. 1 oz. 

Oil of lemon.15° grains. 

Oil of Swiss Herbs. 

Expressed oil of almond. 4 lh. 

Oil of bergamot.15° grains. 

Oil of lemon. 75 grains. 

Oil of lavender.. 75 grains. 

Oil of peppermint.15° grains. 

Oil of cinnamon. 75 grains. 


























256 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Oil of Burdock Root. 

Expressed oil of almond. 4 lb. 

Burdock root. 1 lb. 

Oil of bergamot. 1 

Oil of lemon. 1 oz. 

Oil of rose. Y\ oz. 

The burdock root is macerated for two days in the warm 
oil, which is then filtered and the other ingredients are 
added. 

Macassar Oil. 

Expressed oil of almond. 4 lb. 

Alkanet root. 7 oz. 

Oil of clove. 75 grains. 

Oil of mace. 75 grains. 

Oil of rose. 75 grains. 

Oil of cinnamon. oz. 

Tincture of musk. 75 grains. 

The alkanet root in coarse powder must be macerated in 
the warm almond oil until it acquires a deep red color. 

Peru Hair Oil. 

Peru balsam. 3*4 oz. 

Storax. 1 Yt oz. 

Expressed oil of almond. 8 lb. 

Mix by stirring, and allow to settle for two weeks in a com¬ 
pletely filled bottle. 

Huile Philocome. 

Expressed oil of almond... 4 lb. 

Huile antique of cassie. 1 lb. 

Huile antique of jasmine. 28 oz. 

Wax. 3 01.. 

Spermaceti. 1^ oz. 

Oil of neroli. 1 oz. 

Oil of rose.150 grains. 

Oil of cinnamon. 75 grains. 

























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


25 7 


Portugal Oil. 


Expressed oil of almond. 4 lb. 

Oil of bergamot. x G z. 

Oil of lemon.150 grains. 

Oil of neroli. grains. 

Oil of orange flower.y^ grains. 

Oil of orange peel. ^ oz. 

Oil of cinnamon. . . 7 c crrains 


Tonka Oil. 


Tonka beans. 1 lb. 

Expressed oil of almond. 4 lb. 


Inclose the powdered tonka beans in a linen bag, which is 
hung into the cold oil and allowed to macerate for several 
weeks. The same process is employed for the following: 

Vanilla Oil. 


Vanilla. y oz. 

Almond oil. 4 lb. 

Or, 

Vanillin. 80 grains. 

Expressed oil of almond. 4 lb. 


CHAPTER XXIV. 

PREPARATIONS FOR THE CARE OF THE 

MOUTH. 

Besides the red lips and the gums, the teeth in particular 
ornament the mouth. Unfortunately there are but few per¬ 
sons who can boast of a perfectly healthy set of teeth, which 
is found as a normal condition only among savages and ani¬ 
mals. The chief causes of the admitted fact that most persons 
have some defect in the mouth—bad teeth, pale gums, offen¬ 
sive odor—lie in part in our civilization with the ingestion of 

1 7 
















258 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

hot and sometimes sour food, in part in the lack of attention 
bestowed on the care of the mouth by many people. The 
care of the mouth is most important after meals and in the 
morning; particles of food lodge even between the most per¬ 
fect teeth and undergo rapid decomposition in the high tem¬ 
perature prevailing in the mouth. This gives rise to a most 
disagreeable odor, and the decomposition quickly extends to 
the teeth. 

Perfectly normal healthy teeth consist of a hard, brilliant 
external coat, the enamel, which opposes great resistance to 
acid and decomposing substances. But unfortunately the 
enamel is very sensitive to changes of temperature and easily 
cracks, thus admitting to the bony part of the teeth such 
deleterious substances and leading to their destruction. The 
bulk of the tooth consists of a porous mass of bone which is 
easily destroyed, and thus the entire set may be lost. 

Hygienic perfumery is able to offer to the public means by 
which a healthy set of teeth can be kept in good condition 
and the disease arrested in affected teeth, and by which an 
agreeable freshness is imparted to the gums and lips. While 
true perfumes may be looked upon as more or less of a lux¬ 
ury, the hygiene of the mouth is a necessity ; for we have to 
deal with the health and preservation of the important masti¬ 
catory apparatus which is necessary to the welfare of the 
whole body, so that the aesthetic factor occupies a secondary 
position, or rather results as a necessary consequence from a 
proper care of the mouth. 

With no other hygienic article have so many sins been 
committed as with those intended for the teeth; we have had 
occasion to examine a number of tooth powders, some of them 
very high-priced, which were decidedly injurious. Thus we 
have known of cases in which powdered pumice stone, colored 
and perfumed, has been sold as a tooth powder. Pumice 
stone, however, resembles glass in its composition and acts on 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 259 

the teeth like a fine file which rapidly wears away the enamel 
and exposes the frail bony substance. It needs no further 
explanation to prove the destructive effects of such a powder 
on the teeth. 

Many person prize finely powdered wood charcoal as a 
tooth powder, and to some extent they are right. Wood char¬ 
coal always contains alkalies which neutralize the injurious 
acids, besides traces of products of dry distillation which pre¬ 
vent decomposition. But these valuable properties are coun¬ 
teracted by the fact that charcoal is always more or less gritty, 
or, being insoluble, will lodge between the teeth and form 
the nucleus for the lodgement of other substances. 

In compounding articles for the mouth and teeth—tooth 
powders and mouth washes—the objects aimed at are to neu¬ 
tralize the chemical processes that injure the teeth and gums, 
and to restore freshness and resisting power to the relaxed 
gums and mucous membranes. 

Remnants of food left in the mouth after meals soon de¬ 
velop acids which attack the teeth; they are neutralized by 
basic substances or alkalies which counteract them. 

The formation of organic acids from food remnants is 
caused by microscopic fungi (schizomycetes) which adhere 
to the teeth (so-called tartar) in the absence of cleanliness; 
against these parasites there are at our disposal a number of 
substances which kill them rapidly and thus for a time arrest 
the process of decomposition; they are therefore called anti¬ 
septics. 

Another group of ingredients acts especially on such ab¬ 
normal conditions of the membranous and fleshy parts of the 
mouth as manifest themselves by colorless, easily bleeding 
gums. It is mainly compounds of the tannin group which 
strengthen the gums and are known as astringents. 

In compounding articles for the teeth it has thus far un¬ 
fortunately not been customary to combine several of the sub- 


26 o 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


stances having the above properties, the general rule being to 
incorporate only one in the composition, and some so-called 
tooth lotions consist even of aromatics alone. Such articles 
perfume the mouth, but have no hygienic effect upon it. 

Among the essential oils, however, there is one which 
should form a part of every article intended for the care of 
the mouth, provided it can remain unchanged in the presence 
of the other ingredients, which would not be the case where 
permanagate of potassium is used. Oil of peppermint and 
other mint oils exert a very refreshing influence on the mucous 
membranes of the mouth, in which they leave a sensation of 
freshness lasting for some time. 

We give below a number of formulas for the manufacture 
of articles for the care of the mouth, as to the value of which 
the reader can form his own opinion from what has been 
stated. Finally it may be observed that several of the so- 
called secret preparations for the care of the mouth are arrant 
humbugs, worthless substances being sold at exorbitant prices 
and, worse yet, lacking the vaunted hygienic effect owing to 
their chemical composition. 

The articles for the care of the mouth and teeth may be 
divided into tooth pastes, tooth powders, tooth tinctures or 
lotions, and mouth washes. 

A. Tooth Pastes. 

Tooth Soap (Savon Dentifrice). 


Soap. 2 lb. 

Talcum. 2 lb. 

Orris root. 2 lb. 

Sugar. 1 lb. 

Water. 1 lb. 

Oil of clove.150 grains. 

Oil of peppermint. oz. 


The soap should be good, well-boiled tallow soap ; it is 
mixed with the other ingredients (the sugar is to be previously 










PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 261 

dissolved in the water) by thorough and prolonged stirring, 
and is usually sold in shallow porcelain boxes. The talcum 
or Fiench chalk is a soft mineral with a fatty feel and is a 
common commercial article. 

This tooth soap and other similar preparations for the care 
of the mouth are frequently colored rose red. Of course only 
harmless colors can be used. The most appropriate are rose 
madder lake and carmine. 


Tooth Paste (Pate Dentifrice). 


Prepared chalk.. 

Orris root. 

Sugar. 

Water. 

Madder lake. 

Oil of lavender. . 

Oil of mace. 

Oil of clove 
Oil of peppermint 
Oil of rose. 


2 lb. 

2 lb. 

2 lb. 

1 lb. 

Y\ to I 1 /? oz. 
150 grains. 

150 grains. 

150 grains. 

1 oz. 

150 grains. 


The prepared chalk used in this and many other articles is 
pure precipitated carbonate of lime. It is made from pieces 
of white marble, the offal from sculptors’ workshops, which 
are placed in wide porcelain or glass vessels and covered with 
hydrochloric acid, when abundant vapors of carbonic acid are 
given off. When the development of carbonic acid has ceased, 
the liquid is allowed to stand at rest for several days with an 
excess of marble, wdiereby all the iron oxide is separated. 
This is necessary, otherwise the preparation would not be white, 
but yellowish. The liquid is filtered and treated with a solu¬ 
tion of carbonate of soda (sal soda), in w^ater as long as any 
white precipitate results. This precipitate is washed with 
pure water on a filter, and when slowly dried it forms a fine, 
brilliant white powder. Crystalline calcium chloride may also 
be purchased, dissolved in water, and treated with the soda 
solution to obtain the white precipitate. The quantity of 













2 62 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


madder lake in the above formula is given within the limits 
to form light or dark red tooth paste. 

B. Tooth Powders. 

Quinine Tooth Powder. 


Prepared chalk. 2 lb. 

Starch flour. 1 lb 

Orris root, powdered .. 1 lb. 

Sulphate of quinine. oz. 

Oil of peppermint.150 grains. 


Cinchona-Bark Tooth Powder. 


Cinchona bark, powdered. 1 lb. 

Prepared chalk. 2 lb. 

Myrrh, powdered. 1 lb. 

Orris root, powdered. 2 lb. 

Cinnamon, powdered. 1 lb. 

Carbonate of ammonia. 2 lb. 

Oil of clove. Y oz * 


Borated Tooth Powder. 

Borax, powered. 

Prepared chalk. 

Myrrh, powdered... 

Orris root, powdered 
Cinnamon, powdered 

Homceopathic Chalk Tooth Powder. 


Prepared chalk.-. 4 lb. 

Starch flour. 5^4 oz. 

Orris root, powdered. lb. 

Oil of cinnamon . 1 oz. 


Camphorated Chalk Tooth Powder. 

Prepared chalk. . .-. . 

Camphor. 

Orris root, powdered 
Cinnamon, powdered 


4 lb. 

1 lb. 

2 lb. 

% 


lb. 


1 lb. 

2 lb. 

J* lb. 
J* lb. 
% lb. 



























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 



Charcoal Tooth Powder. 


Charcoal, powdered.... 
Cinchona bark, powered 

Oil of bergamot. 

Oil of lemon. 


4 lb. 
i lb. 
y 2 oz. 

I oz. 


The charcoal must be derived from some soft wood*, wil¬ 
low, poplar, or buckthorn are among the most appropriate. 


Cuttlefish-Bone Tooth Powder. 


Prepared chalk. 4 lb. 

Cuttlefish-bone, powdered. 2 lb. 

Orris root, powdered. 2 lb. 

Oil of bergamot. ^ oz. 

Oil of lemon . 1% oz. 

Oil of neroli.150 grains. 

Oil of orange. ^ oz. 


Cachous Aromatisees. 

Cachous are of a pillular composition, and used not so 
much for the teeth as to impart fragrance to the breath. 
They are made as follows: 


Gum acacia. 1% oz. 

Catechu, powdered. 2^ oz. 

Licorice juice. 1% lb. 

Cascarilla, powdered. ^ oz. 

Mastic, powdered. ^ oz. 

Orris root, powdered. ^ oz. 

Oil of clove. 75 grains. 

Oil of peppermint. % oz. 

Tincture of ambergris. 75 grains. 

Tincture of musk. 75 grains. 


Boil the solids with water until a pasty mass results which 
becomes firm on cooling. The aromatics are then added, and 
the mass is rolled into pills which are covered with genuine 
silver foil. One of these pills suffices to remove the odor of 
tobacco, etc., completely from the mouth 
























264 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Pastilles Orientales. 


Sugar. 

Carmine. 

Gum acacia. . 

Musk. 

Oil of rose.. . 
Oil of vetiver 

Civet. 

Tartaric acid. 


8 lb. 

75 grains. 
2 lb. 

15 grains. 
75 grains. 
15 grains. 
15 grains. 
150 grains. 


Add the essential oils to the powdered solids, mix inti¬ 
mately, and add enough water to form a stiff dough, to be 
made into pills which when chewed remove the odor of to¬ 
bacco or other unpleasant odors. 


Rose Tooth Powder. 


Prepared chalk. 

Orris root, powdered 

Madder lake. 

Oil of rose. 

Oil of santal. 


4 lb. 

2 lb. 

1^ to 2^/2 oz. 
oz. 

150 grains. 


Sugar Tooth Powder. 


Bone-ash. 4 lb. 

Orris root, powdered. 4 lb. 

Sugar, powdered. 2 lb. 

Oil of bergamot. ^ oz. 

Oil of citron. ^ oz. 

Oil of mace. 75 grains. 

Oil of neroli. 75 grains. 

Oil of orange.150 grains. 

Oil of rosemary. . . . . ^ oz. 

Chinese Tooth Powder. 

Pumice stone. 4 lb. 

Starch flour. 1 lb. 

Madder lake. 1^; oz. 

Oil of peppermint. ^ oz. 




























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 265 

The pumice stone must be ground into the finest powder 
and levigated, before being mixed with the other ingredients. 
Note our remarks on pumice stone on page 258. 


C. Tooth Tinctures (Lotions) and Mouth Washes 

(Essences Dentifrices). 


Eau Anatherine. 

Guaiac wood. 

Myrrh. 

Cloves... .. 

Santal wood. 

Cinnamon. 

Alcohol. 

Rose water. 

Oil of mace. 

Oil of rose. 

Oil of cinnamon.. 


3/^ oz. 

8 oz. 

5 Yt, OZ. 
5^2 oz. 
oz. 

4 qts. 

2 qts. 

75 grains. 
75 grains. 
75 grains. 


The solids are macerated in the alcohol, the essential oils 
are dissolved in the filtered liquid, and lastly the rose water is 
added. 


Eau de Botot. 

This tooth tincture, which is quite a favorite, is made in 
different ways; the compositions made according to the 
French and English formulas are considered the best. For 
this and many other tooth tinctures rhatany root is also fre¬ 
quently used. Rhatany root is derived from Krameria triandra, 
a South American plant. Its alcoholic tincture has a red color. 

A. French Formula. 


Anise. 10 oz. 

Cochineal. Y\ oz. 

Mace.150 grains. 

Cloves.150 grains. 

Cinnamon. 2^ oz. 

Alcohol. 3 Q ts - 

Oil of peppermint. ^ oz. 



















266 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


B. English Formula. 


Tincture of cedar. 4 qts. 

Tincture of myrrh. i qt. 

Tincture of rhatany. i qt. 

Oil of lavender. ^ oz. 

Oil of peppermint. i oz. 

Oil of rose.150 grains. 


Borated Tooth Tincture. 


Borax. 5% oz. 

Myrrh. 5^4 oz. 

Red santal wood.. 5^ oz. 

Sugar. 5^2 oz. 

Cologne water. 1 qt. 

Alcohol. 3 qts. 

Water. 3 pints. 


Macerate the myrrh and santal wood in the alcohol, then 
add the Cologne water, and lastly the sugar and borax dis¬ 
solved in the water. 

Camphorated Cologne Water. 


Camphor. 1 lb. 

Cologne water. 4 qts. 


Cologne water with myrrh is made in the same way, by 
substituting a like weight of myrrh for the camphor. 

Eau de Milan. 


Kino. 3^4 oz. 

Civet. 75 grains. 

Cinnamon. oz. 

Alcohol. 5 qts. 

Oil of bergamot.150 grains. 

Oil of lemon. 150 grains. 

Oil of peppermint. ^ oz. 


Kino contains an astringent, a variety of tannin, and forms 
a dark red solution with alcohol. 
























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


267 


Eau de Mialhe. 

Tincture of benzoin. 

Tincture of tolu. ; . 

Tincture of vanilla. 

Kino. 

Alcohol. 

Oil of anise. 

Oil of peppermint. 

Oil of star-anise. 

Oil of cinnamon. 

Myrrh Tooth Tincture. 

Mace. 

Myrrh. 

Cloves. 

Rhatany root. 

Alcohol. 

Chloral Mouth Wash. 


Chloral hydrate. 1 oz. 

Water. 10 oz. 


A small quantity of this, rinsed about the mouth, removes 
every trace of bad odor. 

Potassium Permanganate Water. 


Potassium permanganate. 3*4 oz. 

Distilled water. 5 qts. 


Potassium permanganate easily dissolves in distilled water 
and forms a beautiful violet solution, a few drops of which are 
placed in a glass of water for use. This salt is one of the 
most valuable articles for the teeth; it has the property of 
readily giving off oxygen to organic substances and hence im¬ 
mediately destroys all odor in the mouth by oxidizing the 
organic bodies; it also removes at once the odor of tobacco 
smoke. After rinsing the mouth with this solution, it is well 


1 oz. 
8 oz. 

8 oz. 

8 oz. 

5 q^. 


y oz. 

y oz. 

I 5° grains. 

5/^2 OZ. 

5 qts. 

75 grains. 

y oz. 
75 grains. 
150 grains. 




















268 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


to use some peppermint water for polishing the teeth. This 
mouth wash leaves brown stains on linen and other materials 
as well as on the skin; such spots can only be removed with 
acids (hydrochloric, oxalic, etc.). 

Salicylated Tooth Tincture. 


Salicylic acid. oz. 

Orange-flower water. 30 grains. 

Water. 2 qts. 

Alcohol. 1 qt. 

Oil of peppermint. 30 grains. 


Salicylic acid is a substance possessing strong antiseptic 
properties; therefore, when this mouth wash is used after 
meals, the occurrence of any bad odor, even in persons with 
defective teeth, is prevented and the progress of caries is ar¬ 
rested, so that the acid may be considered one of the most 
valuable substances in hygienic perfumery. 

Dissolve the salicylic acid in the warm alcohol mixed with 
water; add to the still warm solution the orange-flower water 
and the oil of peppermint dissolved in some of the alcohol. 

Eau de Salvia. 


Oil of lemon. ^ oz. 

Oil of sage. 1^ oz. 

Alcohol. 1 qt. 

Water. 4 qts. 


The essential oils are dissolved in the alcohol, and this 
solution mixed with the water. 

Eau de Violettes 


Tincture of orris root. 1 qt. 

Rose water, triple. 1 qt. 

Alcohol. 1 qt. 

Oil of bitter almond. 75 grains. 

Oil of neroli. 30 grains. 
















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


269 



CHAPTER XXV. 

COSMETIC PERFUMERY. 

In cosmetic perfumery, use is made chiefly of articles 
which serve to beautify some parts of the body by artificial 
means; for instance, to impart to pale cheeks a youthful fresh¬ 
ness or to restore to prematurely gray hair its original appear¬ 
ance. In so far as the former object is attained also by the 
preparations discussed in Chapters XXI., XXII., XXIII., and 
XXIV., they likewise belong to the domain of cosmetic per¬ 
fumery; for health and beauty are inseparably connected. 

Though we have separated hygienic from cosmetic per¬ 
fumery, we have done so only in order to draw the line be¬ 
tween preparations whose regular use really improves the 
bodily health, and those which temporarily cover a defect of 
certain parts of the body. 

Cosmetics may also be divided into several groups—those 
for beautifying the skin, as paints and toilet powders; and 
those for the care of the hair. The latter are subdivided into 
hair washes, hair dyes, so-called hair tonics, depilatories, and 
preparations for dressing the hair, i.e. f for making it glossy 
and fixing it. 


270 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


CHAPTER XXVI. 

SKIN COSMETICS AND FACE LOTIONS. 

The use of skin cosmetics and paints is of remote anti¬ 
quity, but varies in different nations according to their civi¬ 
lization and their sense of beauty. While among certain 
Oriental nations dark blue rings around the eyes, with yellow 
lips and nails, pass for beautiful, the European prizes only a 
white skin with a delicate tinge of red; Italian ladies in the 
middle ages used the dark red juice of the fruit of the deadly 
night-shade as a paint, hence the name bella donna, i.e., beau¬ 
tiful lady. (According to Matthiolus, the name herba bella 
domia arose from the fact that Italian ladies used a distilled 
water of the plant as a cosmetic.) Owing to its marked effect 
on the eyes, by dilating the pupil and increasing the lustre, 
this juice also heightens the brilliancy of the eye, though at 
the expense of its health. 

While in the last century face-painting was a universal 
fashion, it is nowadays resorted to only by persons whose skin 
requires some artificial help. But nobody desires that the 
cosmetic should be perceptible on the skin. Hence it must 
be laid down as a rule that paints and all cosmetics should be 
so compounded that it is not easily possible to the observer 
to recognize that some artificial means has been employed for 
beautifying the skin. 

We give below a number of such articles, which come as 
near as possible to this ideal without injuring the skin. As 
every skin cosmetic cannot but occlude the pores of the skin, 
it should be removed as soon as possible—an advice to be 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


271 

heeded particularly by actors and actresses, who must appear 
painted on the boards. 

A. White Skin Cosmetics. 

French White (Blanc Franqais). 


Talcum. 4 lb. 

Oil of lemon. 75 grains. 

Oil of bergamot. 75 grains. 


The talcum must be reduced to the finest powder, levi¬ 
gated, dried, and then perfumed. Owing to its unctuous na¬ 
ture, it readily adheres to the skin, and as it has no effect on 
it and does not change color, it is the best of all powders. 

Liquid Bismuth White; Pearl White (Blanc Perle 

Liquide). 


Subnitrate of bismuth. 1 lb. 

Rose water. 1 qt. 

Orange-flower water. 1 qt. 


When standing at rest, the subnitrate of bismuth sinks to 
the bottom, while the supernatant fluid becomes quite clear. 
The bottle must therefore be vigorously shaken immedi¬ 
ately before use. When this preparation remains on the skin 
for some length of time, it loses its pure white color and be¬ 
comes yellow, or darker, through the gradual formation of a 
black sulphur compound. 

Venetian Chalk (Craie Venetienne). 

is made exactly like the French white, above; the only differ¬ 
ence between the two preparations is that the talcum for the 
latter is brought to a red heat, which, however, causes it in 
part to lose the power of adhering to the skin. 








272 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


B. Red Skin Cosmetics (Rouges). 

Rouge Vegetal Rose Liquide. 


Ammonia water. 2 oz. 

Carmine. 1% oz. 

Essence of rose (triple). 2^ oz. 

Rose water. 2 qts. 


This superior preparation, which serves mainly for color¬ 
ing the lips, is made as follows: Reduce the carmine to pow¬ 
der; macerate it in the ammonia in a three or four pint bot¬ 
tle for several days, add the other ingredients, and let it stand 
for a week under oft-repeated agitation. At the end of that 
time the bottle is left undisturbed until the contents have be¬ 
come quite clear, when they are carefully decanted and filled 
into bottles for sale. 

In order to obtain this preparation in proper form, only 
the finest carmine should be used. That known in the mar¬ 
ket as “ No. 40” is the best. This alone will produce a cos¬ 
metic that, when brought in contact with the skin, will give 
a vivid red color. 

In place of carmine, which requires the presence of am¬ 
monia if it is to remain in solution, the anilin color known as 
eosine may be used. Of this, very minute amounts will be suf¬ 
ficient to impart the proper tint. It is impracticable to give 
exact proportions, as these must be determined in each case 
by experiment. It is necessary to avoid an excess. The tint 
of a liquid colored by eosine may not appear deep, and yet 
when it is applied to the skin a decidedly deeper stain than 
was desired may be produced. Hence each addition of fresh 
coloring matter must be carefully controlled by a practical test. 

Rouge en Feuilles. 

Cut from thick, highly calendered paper circular disks 
about 2 y 2 inches in diameter, and cover them with a layer of 






PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 2/3 

carmine containing just enough gum acacia to make it adhere 
to the paper. For use, the leaf is breathed on, a pledget of 
fine cotton is rubbed over it, and the adhering color is trans¬ 
ferred to the skin. 

Rouge en Pate. 

Carmine. i oz. 

Talcum. 21 oz. 

Gum acacia. 1^ oz. 

The ingredients in finest powder are mixed in a mortar by 
prolonged trituration, then water is added in small portions to 
form a doughy mass to be filled into shallow porcelain dishes 
about the diameter of a dollar. If the rouge is desired darker 
for the use of actors and dark-complexioned persons, the pro¬ 
portion of carmine should be increased. 


Rouge en Tasses. 

Carthamin. 

Talcum powder. 

Gum acacia. 

Oil of rose. 

This rouge, when dry, has a greenish metallic lustre; it is 
prepared and sold like rouge en pate. 

Bleu Vegetal pour les Veines. 

Venetian chalk. 1 lb. 

Berlin blue. 1 ^ oz. 

Gum acacia. 1 oz. . 

To the powdered solids add sufficient water to form a mass 
to be rolled into sticks. For use, a pencil is breathed on, 
rubbed against the rough side of a piece of white glove leather, 
and the veins are marked with the adhering color on the skin 
coated with pearl white. Of course, some dexterity is re¬ 
quired to make the veins appear natural by the use of this 

blue color. 

18 


I oz. 

I lb. 

I ]/z OZ. 

15 grains. 












274 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

Rouge Alloxane (Alloxan Red; Murexide Paint). 

Cold cream. i lb. 

Alloxan. 75 grains. 

Dissolve the alloxan in a little water and mix it intimately 
with any desired cold-cream. The mixture is white, but when 
transferred to the skin gradually becomes red. The prepara¬ 
tion sold in Austria, etc., under the name of “ Schnuda ” is 
identical with this alloxan paint. 

/ 

C. Face Lotions. 

The skin often contains spots with marked color which are 
mote or less unsightly; for instance, freckles, liver spots, 
mother’s marks (naevi), etc. Unfortunately we know of no 
remedy which radically removes them; even chemical prepa¬ 
rations with the most energetic effects, which of course must 
never be employed owing to their destructive action on the 
skin, cannot entirely do away with these dark spots which 
have their seat in the lower layers of the skin. But the pub¬ 
lic demands preparations for the removal of freckles, liver 
spots, etc., and—obtains them. We subjoin the formulas for 
several of such secret remedies, but declare emphatically that 
none of them will completely effect the desired result. 


Freckle Milk (Lait Antephelique). 

Camphor. 1^ oz. 

Ammonium chloride. y oz. 

Corrosive sublimate.150 grains. 

Albumen. 3^ oz. 

Rose water. 2 lb. 

We call attention to the fact that the sublimate (bichloride 
of mercury) is very poisonous and must be used with the 
greatest care. 









PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


275 


Freckle Lotion. 

Angelica root. 

Black hellebore root. 

Storax . 

Oil of bergamot. 

Oil of citron. 

Alcohol. 

Macerate for a week and filter. 


1% oz. 
oz. 

% oz. 
I 5° grains. 
I 5° grains. 
2 qts. 


Eau Lenticuleuse. 
Potassium carbonate.. 


Sugar. ^ oz. 

Orange-flower water. 2 qts. 

Alcohol. 7 oz. 


LlLlONESE I. 


Potassium carbonate. 14 oz. 

Water. 4 lb. 

Rose water. 14 oz. 

Alcohol. 7 oz. 

Oil of rose.150 grains. 

Oil of cinnamon. 75 grains. 


Lilionese II. 

Rose water.. 2 qts. 

Orange-flower water. 1 qt. 

Glycerin.. 1 lb. 

Potassium carbonate. 3^ oz. 

Tincture of benzoin. ^ to 1^ oz. 

Add only enough of the alcoholic tincture of benzoin to 
render the liquid slightly opalescent or milky. 

Lotion for Chapped Skin. 


Glycerin. 4 lb. 

Water. 1 qt. 

Rose water. 1 qt. 


Color pale red with cochineal. 


























2/6 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Eau DE Perles. 


White soap. i lb. 

Dissolved in: Water. 4 qts. 

Glycerin. 2 lb. 

Add: Rosewater. 1 qt. 

Tincture of musk.150 grains. 


To be colored bluish with some indigo-carmin. 

Teint de Venus. 


Alcoholic soap solution. 2 qts. 

Carbonate of potassium. 3^ oz. 

Extract of orange flower. 3^ oz. 


The soap solution is made as concentrated as possible, and 
the entire fluid colored with cochineal; in place of the extract 
of orange flower, other essences or extracts may also be em- 
ployed. For use, some of the liqiud is poured into the wash 
water. 

PULCHERINE. 


Carbonate of potassium. 14 oz. 

Water. 4 lb. 

Orange-flower water. 2 lb. 

Alcohol. 3^ oz. 

Oil of neroli.150 grains. 

Tincture of vanilla. ^ oz. 


The preceding preparations owe their activity merely to 
the presence of carbonate of potassium which forms an emul¬ 
sion with the fat of the skin and thus resembles in its effects 
a mild soap. The other ingredients only serve to render the 
composition fragrant. 

D. Toilet Powders. 

Toilet powders are used to impart whiteness and smooth¬ 
ness to the skin ; hence they are merely a kind of dry cosmetic 
which are applied by means of a powder puff or a hare’s foot. 
















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


277 


Their main ingredients are starch and talcum powders, per¬ 
fumed and sometimes tinted a rose-red color. It is immaterial 
what kind of starch is used; rice, wheat, and potato starch 
are equally effective, provided they are clear white and in the 
finest powder. In some cases the bitter-almond bran remain¬ 
ing after the expression of the fixed oil and the preparation of 
the oil of bitter almond is likewise used for toilet powders. 
The more thoroughly these powders are rubbed into the skin, 
the whiter the latter becomes and the less easily can they be 
detected. 

White Toilet Powder. 


Fine levigated zinc white. 1% oz. 

Venetian talcum. i oz. 

Carbonate of magnesia. i oz. 

Oil of rose. 20 drops. 

Oil of orris. 20 drops. 

Mix intimately. 


Pink Toilet Powder. 

White toilet powder (see above). 5/4 oz. 

Carmine. 8 grains. 

POUDRE DE PlSTACHES. 

Pistachio meal. 10 lb. 

Talcum. 10 lb* 

Oil of lavender. V\ oz * 

Oil of rose. V? oz * 

Oil of cinnamon. 75 grains- 


The oil must have been completely extracted from the 
pistachio meal, which is to be reduced to the finest powder. 

Poudre X la Rose. 

Starch powder. 20 lb. 


Carmine. ^4 oz. 

Oil of rose. V 2 oz - 

Oil of santal. ^4 oz. 


Oil of vetiver, 


I 5° grains. 



















2/8 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


POUDRE A LA VlOLETTE. 


Starch powder. 20 lb. 

Orris root, in fine powder. 10 lb. 

Oil of bergamot. 24 oz. 

Oil of lemon. Y oz. 

Oil of clove.150 grains. 

Oil of neroli.150 grains. 


Poudre Blanche Surfine (Poudre de Riz). 


Starch powder. 20 lb. 

Subnitrate of bismuth. 2 lb. 

Oil of lemon. Y\ oz. 

Oil of rose.150 grains. 

Blanc de Perles Sec (Dry Pearl White). 

Venetian chalk. 20 lb. 

Subnitrate of bismuth. 42 oz. 

Zinc white. 42 oz. 

Oil of lemon. iBj oz. 


Anti-Odorin. 

Starch powder . 1 lb. 

Salicylic acid.150 grains. 

This mixture, which is best left unperfumed, does excellent 
service when used to prevent an offensive odor in stockings 
or shoes. The inside of the stockings is dusted with the pow¬ 
der, and every week a teaspoonful is sprinkled into the shoes. 

Skin Gloss. 


Carbonate of potassium. 1% oz. 

Powdered spermaceti. 1% oz. 

Starch powder. 1 lb. 

Benzoin. Y\ oz. 

Oil of bitter almond.150 grains. 


Mix intimately and preserve in well-closed boxes. For 
use, stir some into water. 
























PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


279 


Kaloderm. 

Wheat flour. 4 lb. 

Almond bran. T lb. 

Orris root, in fine powder. 1 lb. 

Extract of rose. 1 pint. 

Glycerin. 6 fl. oz. 

Form into a dough which is thinned with water and painted 

on the skin. 

\ 

Musk Paste (for Washing the Hands). 

Powdered white soap. 2 lb. 

Orris root, in fine powder. 14 lb. 

Starch powder. i )4 oz. 

Oil of lemon. ^ oz. 

Oil of neroli.150 grains. 

Tincture of musk. \]/ 2 fl. oz. 

Glycerin. 12 fl. oz. 

Rub the starch with the glycerin in a mortar until they 
are thoroughly mixed. Then transfer the mixture to a por¬ 
celain capsule and apply a heat gradually raised to 284° F. 
(and not exceeding 290° F.), stirring constantly, until the 
starch granules are completely dissolved, and a translucent 
jelly is formed. Then gradually incorporate with it the pow¬ 
dered soap and orris root, and lastly the oils and tincture. 














280 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 




, 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

HAIR COSMETICS. 

The number of preparations used for the care of the hair 
and beard is considerable. Unfortunately we are forced to 
admit that the majority of them, especially those said to 
strengthen the scalp and to stimulate the growth of the hair, 
are utterly inert. Thus far we know too little of the natural . 
conditions of growth of the hair to enable us to compound 
remedies which would actively aid the efforts of nature in this 
direction. 

In like manner we cannot speak with approval of the 
preparations used to color the hair, either from a chemico- 
sanitary or from an aesthetic standpoint; many of them con¬ 
tain substances which positively injure the hair or impart to 
it an unnatural color which is detected at first sight. But a 
well-made cosmetic should never produce this effect, and 
nature must be faithfully imitated if the preparation is to de¬ 
serve the name of a cosmetic. 

With the so-called hair and beard elixirs almost incredible 
swindles are perpetrated; the practical perfumer, however, 
cannot advise against the use of such worthless preparations 
among his goods, as they are in daily demand. This is the 
reason why we furnish the formulas for some of these secret 
preparations; anybody at all familiar with the principles of 
chemistry and physiology will recognize their worthlessness 

from their composition. The only articles of practical value 

♦ 

are those intended for cleansing the hair, for making it soft 
and glossy, some of the hair dyes, and the preparations for 
fixing the hair in certain positions. 



PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


28 l 


A. Hair Washes. 

Eau d’Athenes. 


Carbonate of potassium. 2)4 oz. 

Sassafras wood. 8 oz. 

Rose water. 4 qts. 

Orange-flower water. 4 qts. 

Alcohol. 1 qt. 


Macerate the ingredients for one month. The carbonate 
of potassium and the acohol cleanse the hair and remove the 
fat. After using this wash and drying the hair, its fat and 
gloss should be restored by the application of a good pomade 
or hair oil. 


Eau Glycerinee aux Cantharides. 


Ammonia water. 3)4 oz. 

Tincture of cantharides (see below). 3)4 oz. 

Rosemary water. 8 qts. 

Glycerin. io )4 oz. 

Oil of rose. Y\ oz. 


The tincture of cantharides is made by macerating l H oz - 
of powdered Spanish flies (Lytta vesicatoria) in one quart of 
strong alcohol. The caustic ammonia has a similar cleansing 
effect as the carbonate of potassium ; the glycerin makes the 
hair soft; the entire preparation is a happy combination, as it 
cleanses and softens the hair at the same time. 

/ 

Eau de Fleurs; Extrait Vegetal. 


Extract of cassie. 7 oz. 

Extract of jasmine. 7 oz. 

Extract of orange flower. 7 oz. 

Tincture of tonka. 3^4 oz. 

Plxtract of tuberose. 7 oz. 

Tincture of vanilla... 3)4 oz. 

Rose water. 2 qts. 

Alcohol. 2 qts. 




















282 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Eau de Laurier. 


Carbonate of ammonium. 5^ oz. 

Borax. 5 y 2 oz. 

Oil of sweet bay. ^ oz. 

Oil of rose. 75 grains. 

Rose water. 5 qts. 


Eau de Romarin. 

Carbonate of potassium 

Rosemary water. 

Essence of rose (triple) 

Eau Saponique. 


Rose water. 5 qts. 

Rondeletia perfume. 10% oz. 

Saffron. 75 grains. 

Soap. 1 oz. 

Alcohol. ioj 4 oz. 


Boil the finely divided soap and the saffron with some dis¬ 
tilled water until the soap is completely dissolved, add the 
other ingredients, mix intimately, and let stand for some days 
to allow the coarser particles of saffron to settle. This pre¬ 
paration has a particularly handsome appearance; in cut-glass 
bottles it shows a peculiar opalescence or iridescence; in 
transmitted light it represents an almost perfectly transparent, 
saffron-yellow liquid. 


1 Y\ oz. 
4 qts. 

1 qt. 


Eau Victoria. 


Ammonia water. 1 oz. 

Expressed oil of almond. 1 oz. 

Oil of mace. 75 grains. 

Oil of nutmeg. 75 grains. 

Essence of rosemary. 21 oz. 

Rose water. 4 lb. 


Mix the ingredients, except the rose water, by vigorous 
agitation until a kind of emulsion results. Then add the rose 
water in small portions, shaking after each addition. 





















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 283 

Eau de Roses. 

Rose water. 5 qts. 

Oil of rose. 75 grains. 

Dissolve in 

Alcohol. 3^4 oz. 

And add 

Tincture of vanilla. 1^ oz. 

Tincture of civet.150 grains. 

B. Hair Tonics. 

Hair Restorer. 

Tincture of cantharides (see above, page 281). iY oz. 

Tincture of nut-galls. 1^ oz. 

Extract of musk.150 grains. 

Carmine. 75 grains. 

Alcohol. 3^4 oz. 

Rose water. 1 qt. 

Tincture of nut-galls is made by macerating 3*4 oz. of 
powdered nut-galls in one quart of alcohol. The tincture of 
cinchona in the following formula is prepared in the same 

1 

manner. 

Tanno-Quinine Hair Restorer. 

Tincture of cinchona. iY oz. 

Tincture of nut-galls. iY oz. 

Carmine.150 grains. 

Oil of neroli. 75 grains. 

Oil of nutmeg. 75 grains. 

Alcohol. oz. 

Rose water. 1 qt. 

Orange-flower water. 1 qt. 

Baume de Milan pour les Cheveux. 

Lard. 1 lb. 

Expressed oil of almond. 1 lb. 

Spermaceti. iY oz. 

Carmine.15° grains. 

Tincture of cantharides. Y oz. 

Tincture of storax. 1 oz. 

Tincture of tolu. 1 oz. 



























284 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Beard Producer. 


Lard. 1 lb. 

Expressed oil of almond. 1 lb. 

Spermaceti. oz. 

Cantharides. % oz. 

Carmine.150 grains. 

Oil of bergamot. 75 grains. 

Oil of lavender. 75 grains. 

Oil of santal. 75 grains. 


Rub the cantharides with the carmine to the finest possi¬ 
ble powder; add this with the essential oils to the other in¬ 
gredients. 

Formulas for similar hair tonics might be given to the 
number of several hundreds; but we repeat what we have 
said above—they do not produce the desired result. 

While the well-known bay rum is used more as a face 
lotion or refreshing skin tonic, particularly after shaving, or 
when perspiring in hot weather, yet it is also often used as a 
wash for the scalp, and is popularly believed to stimulate the 
growth of hair, which is in reality not the case. We shall 
therefore give a formula for its preparation here: 

Bay Rum. 


Oil of bay (from Myrcia acris).240 grains. 

Oil of orange (bigarade). 16 grains. 

Oil of Pimenta.%. 16 grains. 

Alcohol. 1 qt. 

Water. 25 fl. oz. 


Dissolve the oils in the aclohol and add the water. Mix 
the liquid with about 2 oz. of precipitated phosphate of lime, 
and filter. It will improve by age. 

Genuine bay rum is imported from the West Indies (St. 
Thomas, etc.), where a crude kind of alcohol, obtained in con¬ 
nection with the manufacture of rum from molasses, is distilled 















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 285 

with the fresh leaves of the bay-tree (Myrcia acris). The oil 
of bay obtained from this must not be contounded with the 
oil of sweet bay. The latter, as it appears in commerce, is a 
crude mixture of a fixed with a volatile oil. 


CHAPTER XXVIII. 

HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES. 

The custom of dyeing the hair is universal in the Orient; 
in the Occident, however, hair dyes are also frequently used, 
namely, to hide the grayness of the hair, sometimes to give 
the hair a preferred color. Hair dyes, which are very numer¬ 
ous, may be divided into groups—those containing the dye¬ 
stuff ready formed, and those in which it is produced in the 
hair by some chemical process. Some hair dyes contain sub¬ 
stances which in their nature are decidedly injurious to the 
hair; such articles, of course, must be dispensed with because, 
if frequently employed, they would certainly lead to bald¬ 
ness. We shall return to this subject in connection with the 
several preparations. 

Regarding the use of hair dyes, especially those consisting 
of two separate portions, we may state that it is necessary to 
remove the fat from the hair before applying the dye, as the 
chemicals in question do not adhere well to fat. The hair 
should be thoroughly washed once or twice with soap, and 
dyed when nearly dry. 

When dyeing the hair the preparations should first be di¬ 
luted ; if the color is not deep enough, the process is repeated. 
If the preparation is used at once in a concentrated form, a 
color may result which has no resemblance to any natural 
tint; hair meant to be black may assume a metallic bluish- 
black gloss. 



286 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


A. Simple Hair Dyes. 

Lead Hair Dye. 


Oxide of lead. 4 lb. 

Quicklime. i lb. 

Calcined magnesia. i lb. 


The ingredients are rubbed to a very fine powder and for 
use are mixed with water, applied to the hair, and left there 
until the desired tint—light brown to black—is obtained, from 
four to twelve hours, when the powder is removed by wash¬ 
ing. The lime by its caustic effect acts destructively on the 
horny substance of the hair. Moreover, all lead preparations 
without exception are very injurious to the organism; hence 
this hair dye is to be rejected, especially as there are harm¬ 
less preparations which produce the same effect. 


Karsi (Teinture Orientate). 

Ambergris. 75 grains. 

Nut-galls. 4 lb. 

Iron filings. 1% oz. 

Copper filings. 30 grains. 

Musk... 30 grains. 

This preparation, which really comes from the Orient, is 
made as follows: Reduce the nut-galls to a very fine powder 
and roast them in an iron pan under continual stirring until 
they have become dark brown or almost black. This powder 
is triturated with the metals in fine powder and the aromatics, 
and preserved in a moist place. For use, some of the powder 
is moistened in the palm of the hand and vigorously rubbed 
into the hair; after a few days it assumes a deep black, natu¬ 
ral color. The roasting changes the tannin bodies contained 
in the galls into gallic and pyrogallic acids which form deep 
black combinations with the metals, and themselves are easily 
transformed into brownish-black substances. 











PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


287 


Kohol (Teinture Chinoise). 


Gum arabic. 1 oz. 

India ink. 1^ oz. 

Rose water. 1 qt. 


Powder the ink and the gum, and triturate small quantities 
of the powder with rose water until a uniform black liquid 
results, which must be free from granules. This liquid is 
placed in a bottle and the rest of the rose water added. 
Kohol can be used only by persons with black hair, and is em¬ 
ployed particularly for dyeing the eyebrows. As the coloring 
matter of this preparation consists of carbon in a state of fine 
division, the dye is perfectly harmless. 

Vegetable Dye. 


Silver nitrate. 2 oz. 

Distilled water. 1 qt. 


This hair dye produces a deep black color, but cannot be 

recommended, as it is injurious to the hair. Its full effects 

% 

appear only after the lapse of some hours. 

Potassium Permanganate. 


Potassium permanganate. 5 ^2 oz. 

Distilled water. 2 qts. 


Crystalline potassium permanganate is soluble in water, 
forming a dark violet solution. When brought in contact 
with an organic substance—paper, linen, skin, horn, hair it 
is rapidly decolored and imparts to the substances named a 
brown tint due to hydrated oxide of manganese. The hair is 
washed, as stated above, to remove the fat, and the dilute so¬ 
lution applied with a soft brush ; the color is produced at once 
and according to the degree of dilution this innocuous pi epa- 
ration can be made to give any desired color from blond to 









288 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


very dark brown. Of course, this preparation can be used for 
the beard as well as the hair. 

All the hair dyes here and elsewhere given stain the skin 
as well wherever they come in contact with it; hence care 
should be taken to protect the skin during their application. 

B. Double Hair Dyes. 

Silver Hair Dyes. 

This and similar hair dyes consist of two preparations, 
preserved in bottles I. and II.; the latter, containing the sil¬ 
ver solution, should be of dark amber-colored or black glass, 
as the silver salts are decomposed by light. It is utterly use¬ 
less to employ blue glass for this purpose, as this admits the 
chemical rays of light as easily as flint glass. For use, some 
of the liquid from bottle I. is poured into a cup and the hair 
is moistened with it by means of a soft brush. The liquid 
from bottle II. is poured into a second cup and applied with 


another brush. 

Brown Dye. 

I. (In White Bottle.) 

Sulphide of potassium. 7 oz. 

Alcohol. 1 qt. 

II. {In Dark Bottle .) 

Silver nitrate. 4 yi oz. 

Distilled water. 1 qt. 


Black dye. 

I. (In White Bottle.) 


Sulphide of potassium. y 2 lb. 

Alcohol. . 1 qt. 

II. (In Dark Bottle.) 

Silver nitrate. 5 y oz. 

Distilled water. 1 qt. 










PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


289 


The sulphide of potassium (liver of sulphur) appears in 
fragments of a liver-brown mass which readily dissolves in 
water. The solution must be filtered before being filled into 
bottles for sale, and, as it becomes turbid in the air, kept in 
well-closed vessels. When the two solutions are brought to¬ 
gether, black sulphide of silver results and darkens the hair. 
After the use of this preparation a disagreeable odor of rotten 
eggs adheres to the hair, but can be easily removed by wash¬ 
ing, especially with one of the previously mentioned hair 
washes. 

The silver hair dye will be still better if the liquid con¬ 
tained in bottle II. is made by dropping into the solution, 
under continual stirring, ammonia water, until the precipitate 
first formed is again dissolved. 


Melanogene. 

I. (In Dark Bottle .) 

Silver nitrate.15° grains. 

Distilled water. 2^ oz. 

Ammonia water. 1 oz. 

II. (In White Bottle .) 

Pyrogallic acid. grains. 

Alcohol of 40^. 1 pint. 


Tannin Hair Dye. 
I. (In White Bottle .) 


Powdered nut-galls. 14 oz. 

Water. 1 P int * 

Rose water. 1 pint. 


* Boil the nut-galls in the water, strain the boiling liquid 

through a thick cloth into the rose water, and fill the still hot 

mixture into bottles which must be immediately closed. (It 

is essential that the liquid be hot during the filling, to guard 

against the development of mould.) 

!9 










290 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


II. (In Dark Bottlr .) 


Silver nitrate. 572 oz. 

Distilled water. 1 qt. 


Add ammonia water to the silver solution until the precip¬ 
itate first formed is again dissolved. 

Eau d’Afrique. 

I. {In Dark Bottle.) 

. 45 grains. 

. 3/2 oz. 

- II. {I11 White Bottle.) 


Sulphide of sodium..120 grains. 

Distilled water. 3^ oz. 


Silver nitrate.. 
Distilled water, 


Crinochrom. 


I. {In White Bottle.) 

Pyrogallic acid. 

Distilled water. 

Alcohol.. 


II. {In Dark Bottle.) 

Silver nitrate. 

Ammonia water. 

Distilled water. 


150 grains. 
6% oz. 

5 H oz - 


180 grains. 
2 oz. 
103^ oz. 


Copper Hair Dye. 

# 

I. (In White Bottle. ) 


Ferrocyanide of potassium. 7 oz. 

Distilled water. 1 qt. 

II. {In Dark Bottle.) 

Sulphate of copper. 7 oz. 

Distilled water. 1 qt. 


Add ammonia water to the copper solution until the light 
blue precipitate first formed again dissolves to a rich, dark 
blue liquid. This hair dye gives a dark brown color. 




















PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


29I 


Eau de Fontaine de Jouvence, 

also called Auricome and Golden Hair Water, is no dye, but a 
bleaching agent which changes dark hair to a light blond or 
golden-yellow color. The preparation consists of peroxide of 
hydrogen, a substance possessing marked bleaching properties. 

Peroxide of hydrogen, or hydrogen dioxide, is at the pres¬ 
ent time made on a large scale by many manufacturers, and 
readily obtainable in the market. It would therefore scarcely 
pay any one to prepare it lymself unless he were out of 
reach of the usual channels of trade, so that he could not ob¬ 
tain the preparation in a fresh state. Nevertheless it may be 
useful to state how it is made. Barium dioxide (or peroxide), 
which is a regular article of commerce, and is a stable com¬ 
pound which will keep for any length of time if kept in 
tightly closed bottles, is treated with water until the dioxide 
forms with it a thin, smooth milk. This is gradually added 
to dilute sulphuric acid, cooled with ice or kept otherwise as 
cold as possible, until the sulphuric acid is almost entirely 
neutralized. The solution is then allowed to settle and the 
clear liquid drawn off. For bleaching purposes, this is pure 
enough. Only it must be ascertained that the amount of free 
acid present, without which the hydrogen dioxide does not 
keep well, is only small. Other acids can be used besides 
sulphuric, but the latter is the most convenient. If an alkali 
is added to hydrogen dioxide so that the reaction becomes 
alkaline, it will decompose very rapidly. Even under the 
most favorable circumstances (when acid, and kept in a cool 
place) it will gradually deteriorate, and finally be entirely con¬ 
verted into oxygen gas, which escapes, and plain water. 

Peroxide or dioxide of hydrogen, when applied to the hair 
as a bleaching agent, must be used in a dilute condition at 
first. Those who use it for the first time should always make 
preliminary trials with the liquid upon odd bunches of hair 


292 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

(such as may at any time be procured at hair-dressers’ shops) 
resembling that which is to be bleached, before actually ap¬ 
plying it to the latter. 

The hair to be bleached is deprived of fat by washing with 
soap solution, the soap is washed out with water, and the per¬ 
oxide of hydrogen applied. 

Whisker Dye. 


I. Acetate of lead . 1 Y\ oz. 

Distilled water. 1 pint. 

II. Caustic potassa.•. % oz. 

Distilled water. .... 1 qt. 


Dissolve the acetate of lead (“ sugar of lead ”) in the warm 
water, filter the solution, and add ammonia water until a pre¬ 
cipitate ceases to form. Collect the precipitate on a filter, 
wash it by pouring distilled water over it eight or ten times, 
and while still moist introduce it into solution II. Stir re¬ 
peatedly, and after twelve hours leave the vessel at rest until 
the solution has become clear. Then decant it from the sedi¬ 
ment, which may be treated a second time with solution II. 
For use, the beard is washed with soap, and combed with a 
fine rubber comb dipped in the solution. 

C. Depilatories. 

Combinations of sulphur with the alkaline metals calcium, 
barium, and strontium rapidly destroy the hair; for this rea¬ 
son tanners use the “gas lime” from gas works, which con¬ 
tains calcium sulphide, for removing the hair from hides. All 
the depilatories used cosmetically, even rhusma employed in 
the Orient for removing the beard, owe their activity to the 
presence of calcium sulphide. 

Calcium Sulphide 

has usually been lauded as a perfectly harmless depilatory. 
This is a great mistake, however, since it has often done seri- 






PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


2 93 

ous harm, through careless application by persons unfamiliar 
with its caustic and corrosive effects. It is absolutely neces¬ 
sary to protect the skin against its action; otherwise super¬ 
ficial irritation, or even destruction of the skin may result. 

Calcium sulphide cannot be made by the action of sulphur¬ 
etted hydrogen upon lime. It is usually made by heating at 
a low red heat, in a securely closed crucible, an intimate mix¬ 
ture of ioo parts of finely powdered quicklime with 90 parts 
of precipitated sulphur. Mix together: 


Calcium sulphide. 4 oz. 

Sugar. 2 oz. 

Water. 2 oz. 

Starch powder. 2 oz. 

Oil of lemon. 30 grains. 

Oil of peppermint. 10 grains. 


The resulting mass must be filled at once into an air-tight 
jar, as the calcium sulphide is decomposed in the atmosphere. 
For use, some of the mass is moistened with water, painted 
on the skin, and washed off with water after thirty to forty- 
five minutes. This and all other depilatories act only tem¬ 
porarily, that is, they destroy only the hair projecting above 
the surface without killing the hair bulbs; after some time 
the hair grows again and the preparation must be reapplied. 

Barium Sulphide, 

which is likewise used as a depilatory, is made by heating 
barium sulphate with charcoal, extracting the residue with 
water, and mixing the resulting product with starch paste. In 
its effects barium sulphide equals the preceding preparation, 
but it decomposes more readily. 

Depilatory Paste. 


Powdered caustic lime. 2 lb. 

Starch oowder. 2 lb. 

x 

Sodium sulphide. 21 oz. 












294 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


Sodium sulphide is made by saturating strong caustic soda 
solution with sulphuretted hydrogen. The other ingredients 
are added to the solution of sodium sulphide. 

Rhusma 

is a depilatory made by mixing powdered quicklime (unslaked) 
with orpiment (yellow sulphide of arsenic). Take of: 

Quicklime. 4 lb. 

Orpiment. 10oz. 

/ 

Mix intimately and preserve the powder in tightly closed 
vessels. For use, take some of the powder, reduce it to a 
thin paste with water, and apply it to the place upon which 
the hairs are to be destroyed. Owing to its poisonousness 
and the destructive effects of the caustic lime on the skin, 
this preparation should never be employed in cosmetic per 
fumery. 


CHAPTER XXIX. 

WAX POMADES, BANDOLINES, AND BRIL 

LIANTINES. 

TlIE so-called wax pomades, stick pomatum, and bando¬ 
lines serve to stiffen the hair and are frequently employed by 
hair dressers. The former two articles possess some adhesive 
power by which they fasten the hair together; bandolines are 
mucilaginous fluids which generally contain bassorin (or vege¬ 
table mucilage present in tragacanth), quince seeds, etc. 

A. Wax Pomades. 

Stick Pomatum. 

This is usually formed into oval or round sticks which are 
wrapped in tin foil. They are colored and perfumed as de¬ 
sired. The ordinary varieties are: white, for light blond hair, 





PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


295 


which is left uncolored; pink, colored with carmine; brown, 
colored with umber ; and black, colored with bone black. The 
coloring matters are always rubbed up with oil. Red poma¬ 
tum may be colored with alkanet root, which is macerated for 
some time with the melted fat. The base of these prepara¬ 
tions consists of: 

Lard.. 4 lb. 

Tallow. 12 lb. 

Wax. 6 lb. 

The mass may be made harder or softer by increasing or 

diminishing the wax. The perfumes generally used are oils 

of bergamot, lemon, clove, and thyme, with an addition of 
some Peru balsam. 


B. Beard Wax. 

Beard Wax (Cire X Moustaches). 


Turpentine. 2 lb. 

Expressed oil of almond. 2 lb. 

Wax. 6 lb. 

Violet pomade. 2 lb. 

Peru balsam. 1 lb. 

Oil of clove. 1 oz. 

Oil of santal... H oz - 

Oil of cinnamon. Y\ oz. 


Hungarian Beard Wax (Cire a Moustache Hongroise.) 


Castile soap, powdered. 3 1 /2 oz - 

Mucilage of acacia. ?° oz - 

White wax. 9 oz - 

Glycerin... 3/2 oz - 

Oil of bergamot. 20 drops. 

Oil of lemon. 10 drops. 

Oil of rose. 10 drops. 


Rub the powdered soap with the mucilage, pieviously di¬ 
luted with nine ounces of water, then add the wax and gly- 




















296 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

cerin, and heat the mass on a water-bath, stirring constantly, 
until it becomes homogeneous. Lastly add the oils, and pour 
the mass into suitable moulds. 

For brown or black wax the corresponding color is added. 
The mass is formed into sticks the thickness of a lead pencil. 

C. Bandolines. 

Bandoline aux Amandes. 


Tragacanth. 14 oz. 

Rose water. 8 qts. 

Oil of bitter almond. % oz. 


Crush the tragacanth, place it in the rose water, and leave 
it at rest in a warm spot, stirring occasionally, until the traga¬ 
canth has swollen to a slimy mass. Press it first through a 
coarse and then through a finer cloth, add a little carmine and 
the oil of bitter almond. 

Bandoline a la Rose. 

This is made like the preceding, only substituting 1^ oz 
of oil of rose for the oil of bitter almond. Other varieties 
may be produced by the use of different odors. 

D. Brillantines. 

Under various names preparations are placed on the mar¬ 
ket which render the hair both soft and glossy. The chief 
constituent of all these articles is gylcerin which is perfumed 
according to taste and stained reddish or violet. As many 
aniline colors easily dissolve in glycerin, they are generally 
used for this purpose. Formerly, before glycerin was obtain¬ 
able in sufficient purity, brillantines were chiefly made of cas¬ 
tor oil dissolved in alcohol, but aside from the fact that gly¬ 
cerin is cheaper than castor oil with alcohol, the former is 
preferable, as alcohol injures the hair. 






PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


2 9 7 


Brillantine. 

Glycerin. 8 lb. 

Extract of jasmine (or other flower). 2 qts 


Oleolisse. 


Glycerin.... 4 lb. 

Castor oil. . 4 lb. 

Oil of bergamot... ^ oz. 

Oil of lemon. ^ oz. 

Oil of neroli.150 grains. 


CHAPTER XXX. 

THE COLORS USED IN PERFUMERY. 

In perfumes in which next to the odor, the appearance is 
of importance, the colors play a prominent part. 

In handkerchief perfumes, any accidental color present is 
an obstacle, as it would cause stains on the material. Hence 
the aim is to obtain the perfumes colorless or—a highly prized 
quality in fine articles—they receive a pale green color which 
disappears on drying. Extract of cassie possesses this color, 
and in many cases this extract is added to perfumes for the 
purpose of giving them this favorite color. 

Regarding the colors employed for other articles—emul¬ 
sions, pomades, soaps, etc.—it may be stated as a general rule 
that a preparation named after a certain flower must possess 
the color of the latter. Hence all perfumes named after the 
rose should be rose red; violet perfumes, violet; those bear¬ 
ing the name of the lily or white rose must be colorless, etc. 

The best for articles containing alcohol or glycerin are the 
aniline colors, both on account of their beautiful appearance 
and their extraordinary staining power. But an insurmounta¬ 
ble obstacle is met with in their use for articles containing 










298 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

animal or vegetable fats which rapidly destroy many aniline 
colors. When a rose pomade is colored with aniline red, the 
fine delicate tint hardly lasts three or four weeks and changes 
into dirty gray. The same is. true of aniline violet in violet 
pomade, etc. 

Therefore, articles containing fat must receive other dye¬ 
stuffs, and in the following pages we briefly enumerate those 
we have found most appropriate; but it must be observed 
that all poisonous dyes must be absolutely excluded. Com¬ 
mercial aniline colors formerly often contained arsenic; at the 

• 

present time other processes are usually employed for their 
preparation, not involving the employment of arsenious acid. 

Yellow Colors. 

Saffron. 

The stigmata of Crocus sativus contain a bright yellow or 
orange yellow coloring matter which is easily extracted by 
alcohol, petroleum ether, or fat. We prefer petroleum ether 
in which the finely powdered saffron is macerated, the greater 
portion of the solvent being distilled off, and the rest of the 
solution is allowed to evaporate, when the pure coloring mat¬ 
ter is left and can be easily mixed with fat. The coloring 
matter may also be obtained by macerating the saffron in 
melted lard or in olive oil. 

Jonquille Pomade. 

Genuine jonquille pomade, from Narcissus Jonquilla, has a 
handsome yellow color which is derived from the dark yellow 
flowers; for this reason small quantities of jonquille pomade 
are sometimes used for coloring pomades for the hair. 

Curcuma or Turmeric. 

Curcuma or turmeric root contains a very beautiful yel¬ 
low coloring matter which is easily extracted by alcohol or 
petroleum ether. We prepare it in the same manner as stated 





PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


2 99 

under the head of saffron. Curcuma color cannot be used 
for articles containing free alkali, which changes it to brown. 

Palm Oil 

has naturally a fine yellow color, which it imparts also to soaps 
prepared from it; but the color fades completely when the 
wet soap is exposed to the air. 

Red Colors. 

Carmine. 

This magnificent, though very expensive color is obtained 
from the cochineal insect, Coccus cacti. If good carmine is 
not available, a substitute may be made, for the purpose of 
coloring perfumery articles, by powdering cochineal, treating 
it with dilute caustic ammonia, and, after adding some alum 
solution, exposing it to the air and direct sunlight, when the 
coloring matter separates in handsome red flakes, which are 
collected and dried. 

Carthamin Red. 

Safflower, the blossoms of Carthamus tinctorius, contains 
two coloring matters, yellow and red. The former is ex¬ 
tracted with water from the dried flowers, and the residue is 
treated with a weak soda solution which dissolves the red col¬ 
oring matter. When this solution is gradually diluted with 
acetic acid, the dye is precipitated, and after drying forms a 
mass with a greenish metallic lustre. This, when reduced to 
powder, is used for rouge en feuilles or rouge en tasses. 

This coloring matter can also be prepared by introducing 
into the soda solution some clean white cotton on which the 
color is precipitated and can then be extracted with alcohol. 

Alkanet. 

This root, which is readily obtained in the market, contains 
a beautiful red coloring matter which can be extracted with 


300 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

petroleum ether, but is also easily soluble in fats (melted lard 
or warm oil). Even small amounts of it produce a handsome 
rose red and larger quantities a dark purple. For pomades, 
hair oils, and emulsions alkanet root is the best coloring mat¬ 
ter, as it stains them rapidly, is lasting, and cheap. 

R hat any. 

Rhatany root furnishes a reddish-brown coloring matter 
which is soluble in alcohol and is extracted with it from the 
comminuted root, especially for tooth tinctures and mouth 
washes. For the same purpose use may also be made of red 
santal wood and Pernambuco wood which likewise yield to 
alcohol, besides astringents, beautiful colors which are very 
suitable for such preparations. 


Green Colors. 

Chlorophyll. 

The green coloring matter of leaves is easily extracted 
from them, when bruised, with alcohol, and is left behind after 
the evaporation of the solvent. Some powders which are to 
have a green color are mixed directly with dried and finely 
divided bright green leaves such as spinach, celery, parsley 
leaves, etc. 

For soap it is customary to use a mixture of yellow and 
blue which together produce a green color. Take a yellow 
soap, melt it, and add to it the finest powder of smalt or 
ultramarine until the desired tint is obtained. Indigo-carmine 
cannot be used, as it would impart a blue color to the skin. 

Blue Colors. 

P"or many preparations smalt or ultramarine is employed, 
but these colors are insoluble. The only soluble blue colors 
are aniline blue and indigo-carmine; the latter has a beautiful 


PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 


301 


and intense color, but is suitable only for pomades and not 
for soaps because, as stated above, it would stain the skin. 

Violet 

is produced by a mixture of red and blue in due proportions. 

Brown 

is produced by caramel, which is made by heating sugar in an 
iron pot until it changes into a deep black mass which is 
brown only in thin threads, d his color dissolves easily in 
water (not in aclohol) and is very suitable for soaps. 

• 

Black 

is produced by finely divided vegetable or bone black. 
Liquids are colored with India ink which remains suspended 
for a long time owing to the fine division of the carbon. 


CHAPTER XXXI. 

THE UTENSILS USED IN THE TOILET. 

In the toilet, besides combs and hair brushes, use is made 
of powder puffs, tooth brushes, and bath sponges. Powder 
puffs are made from swan skins, but should be used rather for 
the even division of the powder or paint than for its applica¬ 
tion. For the latter purpose a piece of soft glove or chamois 
leather is best. 

The commercial tooth brushes are almost without excep¬ 
tion objectionable owing to the stiffness of the bristles. A suit¬ 
able tooth brush should be made of very soft, flexible bristles, 
lest it wear away the enamel. 

Particular attention should be devoted to bath sponges. 
Their value is proportionate to the fineness of the pores, their 



302 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

softness and elasticity, and their spherical shape. Crude 
sponges are best cleansed by being placed in dilute hydro¬ 
chloric acid which dissolves the calcareous particles adhering 
to them. 

They are bleached as follows. 

Free them as far as possible from sand and other foreign 
matters. Then wash them thoroughly with water, and press 
them. Next introduce them into a solution of permanganate 
of potassium containing one ounce of the salt in a gallon ; leave 
them in this liquid two or three minutes; then take them out, 
express the liquid (which can be several times used over again), 
wash them with water until no more violet-tinted liquid runs 
from them, and then immerse them in a solution of one part 
of hyposulphite of sodium in twenty parts of water, to which 
immediately before dipping the sponges one part of hydro¬ 
chloric acid has been added. When the sponges are white, 
remove them and wash them thoroughly with water. 

After prolonged use, bath sponges lose their elasticity and 
softness. These properties can be restored by dipping the 
sponges into a mixture of one part by measure of glycerin 
and eight parts of water, pressing out the excess of the liquid 
and allowing them to dry. The small quantity of glycerin 
which they contain prevents their hardening. 


INDEX. 


A LA mode perfume, 186 
Absorption, ioi 
A cacia farnesiana, 26 
Acetic ether, 80 
Acid, acetic, 76 
benzoic, 74 

carbonic, apparatus, 112 
carbonic, for absorption of odors, 
102 

perfumes, 202 
pyrogallic, 84 

salicylic, preservation of fats by, 79 
Acorus Calamus, 50 
Adulteration of essential oils with alco¬ 
hol, 144 

of essential oils with fixed oils, 144 
of essential ods with other essential 
oils, 143 

of essential oils with paraffin, sper¬ 
maceti, or wax, 145 

Adulterations of essential oils and their 
recognition, 139 
Alcohol, 68 

absolute, manufacture of, 68 
amyl, 71 

percentage tables of, 70 
source of, influence on perfumes, 72 
Alcoholometer, Tralles’, 69 
Alkanet, 299 
Alloxan, 73, 274 
Allspice, 21 

Allspice, essence of, 159 
Almond and honey paste, 234 
balls, 244 
cold-cream, 243 
cream, 230 
meal, 234 
paste, simple, 233 
Almonds, bitter, 24 
sweet, 50 

Aloysia citriodora, 54 
Amandes ameres, 24 
Amandes douces, 50 
Amandine, 230 
Ambergris, 57 

tincture of, 151 
Ambra grisea, 57 
Ammonia, 73 

carbonate of, 74 
Ammoniacal perfumes, 199 
Amygdala amara, 24 
dulcis, 50 
Amyl acohol, 71 
Ananas, 44 


Ancients, perfumery among the, 2 
Andropogon citratus, 30, 35 
laniger, 30 
muricatus, 30, 54 
Nardus, 29 
Schoenanthus, 30 
Aneth, 31 

Anethum graveolens, 31 

Animal substances used in perfumery, 57 

Anise, 21 

Anti-Odorin, 278 

Apple ether, 81 

Aromatic substances, division of, ac¬ 
cording to their origin, 8 
substances in general, 6 
substances, relative strength of, 7 
substances, special characteristics 
of, 118 

substances, vegetable, chemical con¬ 
stitution of, 15 

substances, vegetable, employed in 
perfumery, 20 
vinegar, 203 
waters, 113, 167 
Aspic, 35 
Attar of rose, 133 
Auricome, 291 

Badiane, 48 

Baguettes encensoires, 216 
Baisers du printeinps, 170 
Balm, 22 

Balsamodendron Kafal, 41 
Myrrha, 39 

Balsamum peruvianum, 43 
tolutanum, 51 
Bandolines, 296 
Barium sulphide, 293 
Baume de Milan pour les cheveux, 283 
du Perou, 43 
de Tolou, 51 
Bay rum, 284 
sweet, 22 
West Indian, 22 
Beard producer, 284 
wax, 295 

Bear’s-grease pomade, 250 
Beef-marrow pomade, 251 
Benjoin, 23 
Benzene, 66 
Benzin, 66 

Benzoated oil, 255 ^ 

Benzoic acid, 74 

acid, sublimed, manufacture of, 75 




INDEX. 


304 

Benzoin, 23 

and benzoic acid, use of, for pre¬ 
venting rancidity of fats, 79 
pomade, 248 
tincture of, 151 
Benzol, 66 
Bergamot, 24 

essence of, 152 
Bisamkorner, 38 
Bismuth, subnitrate of, 86 
Bismuth white, 86, 271 
Bisulphide of carbon, 66 
Bitter almond, essence of, 152 
almond milk, 238 
almonds, 24 
Black color, 301 
Blanc de bismuth, 86 
de perles, 86, 278 
frangais, 271 
perle liquide, 271 
Bleu vegetal pour les veines, 273 
Blossom pomade, 250 
Blue colors, 300 
Bois de camphre, 25 
de cedre, 27 
de rose, 45 

Borated tooth powder, 262 
tooth tincture, 266 
Borax, 75 

Bouquet a la marechale, 186 
cosmopolite, 180 
court, 173 
d’Andorre, 171 
de Chypre, 172 
de fleurs, 172 
de flore, 176 
de la cour, 171 
de l’Alhambra, 169 
de l’amour, 169 
de Stamboul, 194 
d’Esterhazy, 173 
de Virginie, 195 
des chasseurs, 171 
des delices, 172 
d’lrlande, 177 
du Bosphore, 171 
du Japon, 178 
heliotrope, 194 
leap-year, 184 
Royal Iiorse-Guard’s, 177 
Bouquets, manufacture of, 167 
Brillantines, 296 
Bromelia Ananas, 44 
Brown color, 301 
Bruges ribbons, 219 
Buckingham flowers, 170 

Cachous aromatisees, 263 
Cajuput leaves, 25 
Calamus, essence of, 152 
Calcium sulphide, 292 
Camphor, 121 
balls, 241 


Camphor cold-cream, 240 
ice, 240 
wood, 25 

Camphorated chalk tooth powder, 262 
Cologne water, 266 
Canelle, 27 

Cantharidal pomade, 248 
Cantharides, tincture of, 2S1 
Caramel, 301 
Carbon, bisulphide of, 66 
Carbonate of ammonia, 74 
Carbonic acid apparatus, 112 

acid for absorption of odors, 102 
Carmine, 299 
Carthamin red, 299 
Carum Carvi, 25 
Carvi, 25 
Caryophylli, 30 
Caryophyllus aromaticus, 30 
Cascarilla bark, 26 
gratissima, 26 
Cassia, 28 
Cassie, 26, 28 

extract of, 151 
Castor, Castoreum, 58 
tincture of, 152 
Castor-oil pomade, 252 
Cedar, essence of, 152 
perfume, 174 
tincture of, 152 
wood, 27 

Cedre du Libanon perfume, 174 
Cedrus libanotica, 27 
Ceylon sachet powder, 209 
Chalk, prepared, manufacture of, 26r 
Venetian, 271 

Chapped skin, lotion for, 275 
Characteristics, special, of aromatic sub¬ 
stances, 118 

Charcoal objectionable as a tooth 
powder, 259 
tooth powder, 263 
Cheiranthus Cheiri, 55 
Chemical constitution of vegetable 
aromatic substances, 15 
products used for the preparation 
' of perfumes, 68 
products used in perfumery, 63 
Chemicals used for the extraction of 
aromatic substances, 64 
Cherry salve, 243 
Cherrvlaurel leaves, 29 
Chevre-feuille, 33 
China rose perfume, 192 
roses, extract of, 161 
Chinese gelatin, 80 
tooth powder, 264 
Chloral mouth wash, 267 
Chloroform, 65 
Chlorophyll, 300 
Cinchona bark tooth powder, 262 
pomade, 251 
Cinnamomum, 27 


INDEX. 


305 


Cinnamomum Culilavan Nees, 31 
zeylanicum, 28 
Cinnamon, 27 
Chinese, 28 
tincture of, 165 
Circassian pomade, 248 
Cire a moustaches, 295 
Citron, 28 

flowers, 29 
Citronella, 29 

essence of, 153 
Citrus Aurantium, 41 
Bergamia, 24 
limetta, 35 
Limonum, 35 
medica, 28 
vulgaris, 41 
Civet, 62 

tincture of, 165 
Civetta, 62 
Clous de girofle, 30 
Clove, 30 

essence of, 157 

Cold-creams and lip salves, 238 
Cologne cold-cream, 242 
water, 180 

Colors used in perfumery, 87, 297 
Concombre, 31 
Convallaria perfume, 172 
Convolvulus floridus, 45 
scoparius, 45 
Cortex Aurantii, 41 
Cascarilloe, 26 
Culilavan, 31 

Cosmetic perfumery, 225, 269 
Cosmetics, hair, 2S0 

skin, and face lotions, 270 
skin, red, 272 
skin, white, 271 
Couronne de fleurs, 173 
Court bouquet, 173 
Craie venetienne, 271 
Creme de Cologne, 242 
de moelle, 251 
de ricine, 252 
de vanille, 253 
de violettes, 244 
Crinochrom, 290 
Crisp mint, 38 
Croton Eluteria, 26 
Crystallized oil, 249 
Cucumber, 31 

cold-cream, 242 
extract of, 154 
milk, 237 

Cucumis sativus, 31 
Culilaban bark, 31 
Cuminum Cyminum, 26 
Curcuma, 298 
Currant, black, 27 
Cuscus, 30, 54 

Cuttlefish-bone tooth powder 263 
Cyprian sachet powder, 209 
20 


Dandelion milk, 237 
Depilatories, 292 
Dianthus Caryophyllus, 44 
Dill, 31 

Dipteryx odorata, 52 
Displacement, ill 
Distillation, 92 

fractional, 143 
Divine pomade, 241 
Dog-rose perfume, 193 
Double pomades, 249 
Drop presses, 90 
Dry perfumes, 207 
Dye, black, 288 
brown, 288 
vegetable, 287 

Eau anatherine, 265 
d’Afrique, 290 
d’anges, 39 
d’Athenes, 281 
de Berlin, 170 
de Botot, 265 
de Cologne, 180 
de fleurs, 281 

de fontaine de jouvence, 291 
de laurier, 282 

de lavande a mille fleurs, 184 
de lavande ambree, 183 
de lavande double, 184 
de Leipsic, 184 
de Lisbonne, 185 
de Luce, 202 
de Mialhe, 267 
de Milan, 266 
de mille fleurs, 186 
de mille fleurs a palmarose, 187 
de perles, 276 
de romarin, 282 
de rose triple, 160 
de roses, 283 
de salvia, 268 
de violettes, 268 
du Portugal, 190 
glycerinee aux cantharides, 281 
hongroise, 195 
japonaise, 178 
lenticuleuse, 275 
saponique, 282 
Victoria, 282 
Eaux aromatisces, 113 
encensoires, 220 
Ecorce culilaban, 31 
d’oranges, 41 
Eglantine perfume, 193 
Elais guineensis, 42 
Elder flowers, 32 
Emulsions, 227, 230 
Encens, 40 
Enfleurage, 101 
Esprit de roses triple, 161 
Ess. bouquet, 175 
Essence de roses blanches, 162 


INDEX. 


306 

Essence de roses jaur.es, 161 
de roses jumelles, 162 
de styrax, 162 
definition of, 150 
des bouquets, 175 
meaning of the French term, 14 
of mirbane, 83 
Essences dentifrices, 265 

directions for making, 150 
employed in perfumery, 146 
fruit, 82 

removal of fat from, 149 
Essential oil a misnomer, 14 

oils,adulteration of,with alcohol, 144 
oils, adulteration of, with fixed oils, 

. 144 

oils, adulteration of, with other es¬ 
sential oils, 143 

oils, adulteration of, with paraffin, 
spermaceti, or wax, 145 
oils, adulterations of, and their 
recognition, 139 

oils, chemical and physical proper¬ 
ties of, 16 

oils, final purification of, 112 
oils, oxygenation of, 18 
oils, preservation of, 19 
oils, table showing the approximate 
density, boiling and congealing 
points of, 141 
oils, yield of, 113 
Esterhazy bouquet, 173 
Ether, 64 

acetic, 80 
apple, 81 
nitrous, 81 
oenanthic, 71 
pear, 81 
petroleum, 65 
pine-apple, 81 
Ethers, fruit, 81, 82 
Eugenia Pimenta, 21 
Excelsior extraction apparatus, 107 
Extract, definition of, 150 
Extraction, 103 

apparatus, 103 et seq. 
of aromatic substances, chemicals 
used for, 64 
of odors, 87 

Extracts, directions for making, 150 
employed in perfumery, 146 
Extrait d’amande, 152 
d’ambre, 169 
d’ambregris, 151 
d’ambrette, 152 
de baume de tolou, 162 
de benjoin, 151 
de bergamotte, 252 
de bois de cedre, 152 
de canelle, 165 
de cassie, 151 
de castoreum, 152 
de cedre, 152 


Extrait de chevre-feuille, 153, 176 
de civette, 165 
de clous de girofles, 157 
de concombre, 154 
de fleurs d’oranges, 158 
de gaultherie, 165 
de girofle, 155, 184 
de glai'eul, 152 
d’eglantine, 161 
de heliotrope, 154, 176 
de jasmin, 155 
de jonquille, 157, 179 
de lavande, 155 
de Idas, 153, 174 
de limon, 156 
de lys, 156, 185 
de magnolia, 156, 185 
de menthe, 156 
de mignonette, 159 
de muse, 156, 188 
de myrte, 157, 189 
de narcisse, 157, 189 
d’encens, 165 
de neroli, 158 
de patchouli, 158, 191 
de Perou, 159 
de piment, 159 
de pois de senteur, 159, 190 
de rosa thea, 162 
de rose, 159 

de roses mousseuses, 161 
de roses triple, 161 
de santal, 162 
de Schoenanthe, 153 
de tonka, 163 
de tuberose, 163 
de vanille, 163 
de verveine, 163, 196 
de vetiver, 165 
de violette, 163 
de volcamerla, 164 
d’iris, 163 
d’oeillet, 158, 190 
d’oliban, 165 
vegetal, 281 
% 

FAH/E Tonkse, 52 
Face lotions, 274 
Farine d'amandes, 234 
de pistaches, 235 
Fats, 77 

purification of, 77, 246 
rancidity of, prevention of, 79 
Fennel, 32 
Fenouil, 32 
Ferula Sumbul, 49 
Feves de Tonka, 52 
Field-flower sachet powder, 209 
Fiori d’ltalia, 174 
Fleurs de citron, 29 

de mai perfume, 172 
de Montpellier, 187 
des champs, 188 



INDEX. 


307 


Fleurs d’oranges, 41 
solsticiales, 194 
Florentine flasks, 96 
Flores Aurantii, 41 
Citri, 29 
Lonicerae, 33 
Sambuci, 32 
Syringae, 36 
Florida perfume, 175 
Flowers of the Isle of Wight perfume, 
198 

Foeniculum vulgare, 32 
Folia Cajuputi, 25 
Laurocerasi, 29 
Forest-breeze perfume, 197 
Formulas for handkerchief perfumes, 169 
for pomades and hair oils, 247 
for sachets, 209 
for toilet vinegars, 204 
Fractional distillation, 143 
Frangipanni sachet powder, 210 
Freckle lotion, 275 
milk, 274 

French flower farms, annual production 
of, 10 
white, 271 
Fructus Citri, 28 
Fruit essences, 82 
ethers, 80, 82 
Fumigating paper, 218 
pastils, 214 
pencils, 216 
powders, 220 
ribbons, 219 

waters and vinegars, 220 
Fumigation, perfumes used for, 214 
Funnel, separating, 89, 9S 
Fusel oils, 71 

Garland of flowers perfume, 173 
Gaultheria procumbens, 55 
Gaultherie, 55 
Gelatin, Chinese, 80 
Geranium, 32 

essence of, 154 
Ginger grass, 30 
Girofle, 55 
Glycerin, 82 

cold-cream, 240 
cosmetic use of, 227 
cream, 231 
emulsions, 231 
jelly, 232 

Golden hair water, 291 
Grains d’ambrette, 38 
Green colors, 300 
Gum wax, 49 

Hair cosmetics, 280 
dye, copper, 290 
dye, lead, 286 
'dyes and depilatories, 285 
dyes, double, 288 
dyes, silver, 288 


Hair dyes, simple, 286 
oils and pomades, 245 
oils, formulas for, 254 
restorer, 2S3 
tonics, 283 
washes, 281 

Handkerchief perfumes, formulas for, 169 
perfumes, manufacture of, 167 
Hedyosmum flowers, 33 
Heliotrope, 33 
bouquet, 194 
extract of, 154 
hair oil, 255 
perfume, 176 
pomade, 252 
sachet powder, 210 
Heliotropin, 33 
Heliotropium peruvianum, 33 
Hepar sulphuris, 84 
Herba Majoranae, 37 
Hibiscus Abelmoschus, 38 
History of perfumery, 1 
Homoeopathic chalk tooth powder, 262 
Honeysuckle, 33 
extract of, 153 
perfume, 176 
Hovenia perfume, 177 
Huile a benjamin, 255 
k l’ess-bouquet, 255 
crystallisee, 249 
de jasmin, 255 
de mille fleurs, 188 
de palme, 42 
heliotrope, 255 
philocome, 256 
Hungarian beard wax, 295 
water, 195 

Huntsman’s nosegay, 178 

Hydrogen dioxide, 291 

Hygienic and cosmetic perfumery, 225 

Hyraceum, 59 

Hyssop, 34 

Hyssopus officinalis, 34 

Illicium anisatum, I. religiosum, 48 
Incense powder, 217 
Indian sachet powder, 210 
Inexhaustible salt, 200 
Infusion, 98 

cold and warm, 147 
Iris, 42 

florentina, 42 
Iwarankusa, 54 

Jasmine, 34 

emulsion, 232 
extract of, 155 
hair oil, 255 

Jasminum odoratissimum, 34 
Jockey club, 178 
Juniperus virginiana, 27 
Jonquille, extract of, 157 
perfume, 179 
pomade, 298 


INDEX. 


308 

Kaloderm, 279 
Karsi, 286 

Kiss me quick perfume, 180 
Kohol, 287 

Lait antephelique, 274 
d’amandes ameres, 23S 
de concombre, 237 
de bias, 236 
de pistaches, 238 
de roses, 238 
virginal, 236 
Lathyrus tuberosus, 50 
Laurier, 22 
Laurier-cerise, 29 
Laurus nobilis, 22 
Lavande, 34 
Lavandula vera, 34 
Lavender, 34 

essence of, 155 
perfumes, 183 
sachet powoer, 210 
Leap-year bouquet, 184 
Lemon, 35 

essence of, 156 
grass, 30, 35 
grass, essence of, 153 
Lignum Camphorse, 25 
Cedri, 27 
Rhodii, 45 
Sassafras, 47 
Lilac, 36 

extract of, 153 
milk, 236 
perfume, 174 
Lilas, 36 
Lilionese, 275 
Lilium candidum, 36 
Lily, 36 

extract of, 156 
perfume, 185 
of the valley extract, 185 
of the valley perfume, 172, 185 
Limon, 35 
Liquidambar orientalis, L. styraciflua, 49 
Liquidamber, 49 
Lip salve, white and red, 243 
salves and cold-creams, 238 
Lis, 36 

Liver of sulphur, 84 
Lonicera Caprifolium, 33 
Lotion for chapped skin, 276 
Lotions, face, 274 

Macassar oil, 256 
Mace, 36 
Maceration, 98 
Maces, 36 
Magnolia, 37 

extract of, 156 
grandiflora, 37 
perfume, 185 

Mallard’s toilet vinegar, 206 
Marjolaine, 37 


Marjoram, 37 
Marrow cream, 251 
Marshal sachet powder, 210 
Meadow-sweet, 38 
Meals and pastes, 233 
Melaleuca Cajuputi, 25 
Melanogene, 289 
Melissa officinalis, 22 
Mentha aquatica, M. crispa, M. pipe¬ 
rita, M. viridis, 38 
Menthe crepue, poivree, verde, 38 
Mignonette, 45 
Milk, vegetable, 235 
Mille fleurs sachet powder, 211 
Mint, 38 
Moschus, 59 

Moss-rose, extract of, 161 
perfume, 193 
Mousseline perfume, 188 
Mouth, preparations for the care of, 257 
washes, 265 
Murexide paint, 274 
Muscade, 40 
Musk, 59 

paste, 279 
perfume, 188 
tincture of, 156 
Musk-seed, 38 

tincture of, 152 
Muslin sachet powder, 211 
Myrcia acris, 22 
Myristica, 40 
Myristica fragrans, 36 
Myrrh, 39 

tooth tincture, 267 
Myrrha, 39 
Myrtle, extract of, 157 
leaves, 39 
perfume, 189 
Myrtus communis, 39 

Nail powder, 244 
Narcissus, 40 

extract of, 157 
Jonquil la. 40 
perfume, 189 
poeticus, 40 

Nardostachys Jatamansi, 48 
Navy’s nosegay, 189 
Neroli, extract of, 158 
New-mown hay, 177, 189^ 
Nitrobenzol, S3 
Nitrous ether, 81 
Nosegay perfume, 172 
Nutmeg, 40 
butter, 129 

Odors, extraction of, 87 

from pomades, abstraction of, 102 
from the vegetable kingdom, 13 
GEillet, 44 
CEnanthic ether, 71 
Oil, benzoated, 255 
crystallized, 249 





INDEX. 


309 


Oil, macassar, 256 
of allspice, 132 
of anise, 119 
of bergamot, 119 
of bitter almonds, 74, 120 
of bitter almonds, artificial, 83 
of burdock root, 256 
of cajuput, 120 
of calamus, 120 
of caraway, 125 
of cascarilla, 121 
of cassia, 121, 137 
of cassie, 119 • 
of cedar, ]2i 
of chamomile, 120 
of cherry-laurel, 125 
of cinnamon, 137 
of citron, 122 
of citronella, 122 
of clove, 130 
of coriander, 123 
of crispmint, 129 
of culilaban, 125 
of elder, 124 
of geranium, 123 
of heliotrope, 124 
of hyssop, 137 
of jasmine, 224 
of laurel, 127 
of lavender, 125 
of lemon, 122, 127 
of lemon-grass, 122 
of lilac, 123 
of lily, 126 
of mace, 129 
of magnolia, 127 
of marjoram, 127 
of meadowsweet, 135 
of melissa, 128 
of mignonette, 133 
of mirbane, 83 
of myrtle, 130 
of narcissus, 130 
of neroli bigarade, 131 
of neroli petale, 131 
of nutmeg, 129 
of orange, 131 
of orange bigarade, 131 
of orange flowers, 130 
of patchouly, 132 
of peppermint, 129 
* of petit grain, 131 
of pink, 130 
of Portugal, 131 
of reseda, 133 
of rhodium, 134 
of rose, 133 
of rosemary, 134 
of rue, 133 
of sage, 134 
of sandal wood, 134 
of santal, 134 
of sassafras, 135 


Oil of spearmint, 129 
of star-anise, 135 
of sweet bay, 127 
of sweet pea, 132 
of Swiss herbs, 255 
of syringa, 132 
of thyme, 135 
of turpentine, 138 
of vanilla, 136 
of verbena, 136 
of vetiver, 136 
of violet, 136 
of wallflower, 126 
of wintergreen, 136 
of ylang-ylang, 137 
palm, 299 

Oils, essential, adulterations of, and 
their recognition, 139 
essential, see also Essential oils 
fusel, 71 
of mint, 128 
purification of, 79 

Oleolisse, 297 

Oleum Amygdalae amarae. 74, 120 
Anisi Stellati, 135 
Cajuputi, 120 
Calami, 120 
Cari, 125 
Caryophylli, 130 
Cassiae, 121, 137 
Chamomilloe, 120 
Cinnamomi, 137 
Citri, 122 
Coriandri, 123 
Culilavani, 125 
Gaultheriae, 136 
Hyssopi, 137 

Illicii, 135 

Ivaranchusae, 136 
Lauri, 127 
Lavandulae, 125 
Limonis, 122, 127 
Macidis, 129 
Majoranae, 127 
Menthae crispae, 129 
Menthae piperitae, 129 
Myristicae, 129 „ 

Naphae, 130 
Neroli, 130 
Palmae, 42 
Rosmarini, 134 
Rutae, 133 
Salviae, 134 
Sambuci, 124 
Santali, 134 
Sassafras, 135 
Spiraeae, 135 
Terebinthinae, 138 
Thymi, 135 

Unonae odoratissimae, 137 

Olibanum, 40 

tincture of, 135 

Olivine, 233 


INDEX. 


310 

Olla podrida sachet powder, 211 
Opopanax, 41 

Orange flower, extract of, 158 
flower pomade, 252 
flowers, 41 
peel, 41 
Origanum, 42 

Majorana (vulgare), 37 
Orris root, 42 

root, tincture of, 163 
Otto of rose, 133 
Oxidation of essential oils, 18 
Oxide of tin, 86 

Palm oil, 42, 299 
Paper, fumigating, 21S 
Paraffin, 83 
Paste, Spanish, 224 
Pastes and meals, 233 
Pastilles du serail, 216 
enbaumees, 217 
odoriferantes, 217 
orientales, 215, 264 
Pastils, fumigating, 214 
Patchouly, 43 

essence of, 158 
perfume, 191 
powder, 212 
Pate camphorique, 240 

d’amandes au miel, 234 
d’amandes simple, 233 
dentifrice, 261 
Pear ether, 81 
Pearl white, 86, 271, 278 
Peau d’Espagne, 222 
Pelargonium roseum, 32 
Pencils, fumigating, 216 
Peppermint, 3S 

essence of, 156 
Perfumery, cosmetic, 269 
division of, 166 
history of, I 

hygienic and cosmetic, 225 
Perfumes, acid, 202 
ammoniacal, 199 
dry, 207 

used f®r fumigation, 214 
Permanganate of potassium, 76, 267, 287 
Peroxide of hydrogen, 291 
Persian sachet powder, 212 
Peru balsam, 43 

balsam, tincture of, 159 
hair oil, 256 
Petroleum ether, 65 
Philadelphus coronarius, 34, 51 
Philocome hair oil, 256 
pomade, 254 
Pimenta, 21 
Pimpinella Anisum, 21 
Pine-apple, 44 
ether, 81 

Pine-needle odor, 197 
Pink, 44 


Pink, extract of, 158 
perfume, 190 
Piperonal, 33 
Pistachio meal, 235 
milk, 238 

Place of growth of plants, influence on 
their odor, 11 
Plumeria, 44 

Pogostemon Patchouly, 43 
Pois de senteur, 50 
Polianthus tuberosa, 53 
Polyanthus perfume, 190 
Pomade a fleurs, 25a 

a fleurs d’oranges, 252 
a graisse d’ours, 250 
a la rose pour les levres, 243 
a moelle de boeuf, 251 
a quinquine, 251 
blanche pour les levres, 243 
cerise, 243 
de heliotrope, 252 
des violettes, 253 
divine, 241 
philocome, 254 
Pomades and hair oils, 245 
formulas for, 247 
Pomatum, stick, 294 
Portugal oil, 257 

sachet powder, 212 
Potassii suphuretum, 84 
permanganas, 76 

Potassium permanganate hair dye, 287 
permanganate water, 267 
sulphide of, 84 
Potpourri sachet powder, 212 
Poudre a la rose, 277 
a la violette, 278 
blanche surflne, 278 
de la reine, 221 
d’encens, 217 
de pistaches, 277 
de riz, 27S 
imperiale, 221 
pour les ongles, 244 
royale, 221 

Poudres encensoires, 220 
Powder, incense, 217 
Powders, toilet, 276 
Preparations for the care of the mouth, 
257 

Pressure, 88 
Preston salt, 202 
Prunus laurocerasus, 29 
Pterocarpus santalinus, 47 
Pulcherine, 276 

Pumice stone objectionable as a tooth 
powder, 258 
Pyrogallic acid, 84 

Queen Victoria’s perfume, 190 
Quinine tooth powder, 262 

Racine de glaieule, 50 
Radix Calami, 50 



INDEX. 


311 


Radix Iridis florentince, 42 
Sumbul, 49 

Rancidity of fats, prevention of, 79 
Red colors, 299 
Reine des pres, 38 
Reseda, 45 

essence of, 191 
extract of, 159 
odorata, 45 
Resina Opopanax, 41 
Resinification, 18 
Rhatany, 300 
Rhodium, 45 
Rhusma, 294 
Ribbons, fumigating, 219 
Ribes niger, 27 
Robinia pseudoacacia, 27 
Romarin, 46 

Rondeletia odoratissima perfume, 191 
Rosa, 45 

centifolia perfume, 192 
Rose, 45 

essence or extract of, 159, 161 
milk, 238 

mousseuse perfume, 193 
odors, 192 
sachet powder, 213 
thea perfume, 193 
tooth powder, 264 
water, 160 

Rosebud cold-cream, 244 
Rosemary, 46 

Roses blanches perfume, T93 
jaunes perfume, 192 
jumelles perfume, 193 
Rosmarinus officinalis, 46 
Rouge alloxane, 274 
en feuilles, 272 
en pate, 273 
en tasses, 273 
vegetal rose liquide, 272 
Rouges, 272 

Royal Horse-Guard’s bouquet, 177 
nosegay, 192 
Rue, 46 

Ruta graveolens, 46 

Sachets, formulas for, 209 ' 

Saffron, 298 
Safrol, 47 
Sage, 46 

Salicylated tooth tincture, 268 
Salicylic acid, preservation of fats by, 79 
Salt, inexhaustible, 200 
smelling, white, 201 
Preston, 202 
Salvia officinalis, 46 
Sambucus canadensis, 32 
niger, 32 

Santal, extract of, 162 
sachet powder, 213 
wood, 47 

Santalum album, 47 


Sassafras, S. officinalis, 47 
Sauge, 46 

Savon dentifrice, 260 
Savonettes camphoriques, 241 
d’amandes, 244 
Scent bags, 207 
Schnuda, 274 
Schoenanthe, 35 

Seiffert’s extraction apparatus, 105 
Sel blanc parfume, 201 
inepuisable, 200 
volatil, 202 

Semen Abelmoschi, 38 
Anethi, 31 
Anisi stellati, 48 
Carvi, 25 

Separating funnel, 89, 98 
Separators, 96 
Seringat, 51 

Skin, chapped, lotion for, 275 

cosmetics and face lotions, 270 
cosmetics, red, 272 
cosmetics, white, 271 
gloss, 278 

Smelling salt, white, 201 
Sodii boras, 75 
Soumboul, 49 
Spanish paste, 224 
skin, 222 
Spearmint, 38 
Spermaceti, 85 
Spiced vinegar, 204 
Spic-nard, 48 
Spike-lavender, 35 
Spikenard, 48 
Spiraea ulmaria, 38 
Sponges, bleaching of, 302 
Spring kisses, 170 

nosegay perfume, 194 
Starch, 84 
Star-anise, 48 
Steam still, no 
Stick pomatum, 294 
Stills, 92 et seq. 

Storax, 49 

tincture of, 162 
Styrax Benzoin, 23 
Suave perfume, 194 
Subnitrate of bismuth, 86 
Sugar tooth powder, 264 
Sulphide of potassium, 84 
Sumbul root, 49 
Sureau, 32 
Sweet almonds, 50 
Sweet-brier, extract of, 161 
Sweet-flag root, 50 
Sweet gum, 49 
Sweet-pea, 50 

essence of, 196 
extract of, 159 
Syringa, 51 

perfume, 195 
vulgaris, 36 


INDEX. 


3 12 


Table showing the approximate den¬ 
sity, boiling and congealing 
points of essential oils, 141 
Tables, percentage, of alcohol, 70 
Tannin hair dye, 289 
Tanno-quinine hair restorer, 283 
pomade, 252 
Tea-rose, extract of, 162 
perfume, 193 
Teint de Venus, 276 
Teinture chinoise, 287 
orientale, 286 
Terpineol, 36 
Thyme, 51 

Thymus Serpyllum, T. vulgaris, 51 
Tin, oxide of, 86 
Tincture, definition of, 150 
Toilet powder, pink, 277 
powder, white, 277 
powders, 276 
utensils, 301 
vinegar, Mallard s, 206 
vinegars, 204 
Tolu balsam, 51 
tincture of, 162 
Toluifera Balsamum, 51 
Pereirae, 43 
Tonka beans, 52 
cream, 253 
oil, 257 

tincture of, 163 
Tooth pastes, 260 
powders, 262 
soap, 260 
tinctures, 265 
Transparent pomade, 252 
Tuberose, 53 

emulsion, 232 
extract of, 163 

Tulipe odoriferante perfume, 195 
Tumeric, 298 
Twin-rose perfume, 193 
Twin-roses, extract of, 162 

Unona odoratissima, 56 
Utensils used in the toilet, 301 

Vanilla, 53 

aromatica, V. planifolia, 53 
camphor, 136 
cream, 253 
oil, 257 
pomade, 253 
tincture of, 163 
Vanillin, 85, 136 
Vaselin, 85 

Vegetable aromatic substances, chemi¬ 
cal constitution of, 15 
kingdom, odors from, 13 
milk, 235 

Venetian chalk, 271 
Verbena, 54 

extract of, 163 


Verbena perfume, 196 
sachet powder, 214 
triphylla, 54 
Verveine, 54 
Vetiver, 30, 54 

essence of, 165 
sachet powder, 214 
Vinaigre a la rose, 204 
aux epices, 204 
aux tleurs d’oranges, 205 
aux violettes, 205 
de cologne, 205 
de lavande, 206 
de quatre voleurs, 205 
ethere, 206 
hygienique, 205 
polyanthe, 207 
Vinaigres encensoires, 220 
Vinegar, aromatic, 203 
Mallard’s toilet, 206 
orange-flower, 206 
preventive, 205 
spiced, 204 
toilet, French, 207 
Vinegars, toilet, 204 
Viola odorata, 54 
Violet, 54 

cold-cream, 244 
color, 301 
emulsion, 232 
extract of, 163 
perfume, 195 
pomade, 253 
sachet powder, 213, 214 
Violettes des montagnes, 197 
Violettes (perfume), 195 
Virginal milk, 236 
Vohl’s extraction apparatus, 1 
Volcameria, 55 

extract of, 164 
inermis, 55 
perfume, 197 

Wallflower, 55 
extract of, 155 
perfume, 184 

Waters, aromatic, 113, 167 
Wax, 85 

pomades, 294 
West End perfume, 197 
Whisker dye, 292 
White, French, 271 
pearl, dry, 278 
rose, extract of, 162 
rose perfume, 193 
Wintergreen, 55 
extract of, 165 
perfume, 198 

Yacht club perfume, 198 
Yellow colors, 298 
Yield of essential oils, 113 
Ylang-ylang, 56 
perfume, 198 

















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